I've got a downloaded version that was freely distributed and I don't remember it needing a crack. Although it does have my name as a registered user and I have to tell my computer it's September 2006 or it complains that it has expired so maybe it did. I've probably got the installer on a CD somewhere. If I find it, I'll confirm but I agree with Gordon, it's probably best to not discuss it openly. I rarely use it these days now there is the Russian hosted version online.

As long as you de-pressurise the suspension first, not too much. I've changed a front axle but leaving the radius arms attached to the axle and by leaving them on the car. There's not a lot to choose really. In addition to some pretty big sockets and a long breaker bar, all you'll need is a big pry bar and a lump hammer to get the holes to line up again so you can fit the bolts.

I wouldn't have thought how a car is used would have any affect on the hose from the pump, it's going to have full pressure in it all the time whether the brakes are being used a lot or not. Ambient temperature may well have an affect though.

Tell him he can do the job for €350 cash but you'll supply the parts. Eurocarparts over here want £75 for a complete clutch kit. It's only £105 for a genuine Valeo! Even with postage it isn't going to come to €650.......

I know all about the prices of cars over there. My mate runs an old Discovery that he wouldn't part with for any money and currently also has a Peugeot 406 Coupe while his wife has a Toyota Rav4 and his son a Porsche Boxster. All RHD, UK registered and bought in the UK. What can be picked up for a grand over here would cost you almost 3 times that over there. He paid £1200 for a Saab 9-3 convertible last year that I picked up for him from a local trader and his intention was to keep that and sell the Peugeot. Then someone offered him 3000 Euros for the Saab so he kept the Peugeot. I had a car to bring back last summer so we looked around for something to use as a trailer filler for the way down. I paid £600 for a Ford StreetKa (the convertible Ka) which sold on Anglo Info for 2500 Euros despite it needing a new clutch. It's bonkers it really is.

Weather stations transmit a data burst anything from every minute to every half hour. If you are parked in range of one transmitting every minute the BeCM will never get chance to go to sleep. The other good one, if you are in a rural area with no mains gas, is level senders in heating oil tanks. They should send a burst every couple of hours or so (although not sure why they need to do it that frequently, 1000 litres of oil lasts me almost a year!) but when the battery starts to get low, they'll send a burst every second or so. I'm sure the buggers put out more than the 10mW the LPD licence exemption allows too, as they will go for miles!

There's a guy called Florent who is heavily into his P38 and making off road bits for them. He organised a French P38 rally last year and from the photos that I saw posted somewhere, some of them were taken outside the Land Rover dealers alongside the A6 just north of Lyon. Not seen him around for a while and his profile on Rangerovers.net shows his location as Paris. His username on there is 996TURBO (so I suspect he's doing quite well out of making bits for off road P38s....). He's on facebook, or at least his company is, https://www.facebook.com/rrevolution.evolution/ and his website is http://rr-evolution.com/. Although he may be in Paris, he may be able to put you in touch with someone in Lyon or Dijon that can drag the car back for you (he may even know someone that can change a clutch for a sensible price too). He speaks reasonable English too, or he's found a computer translator that doesn't convert a language into something that may contain all the right words but in completely the wrong order....

Ouch! That's a new one. On both mine it's a stainless braided hose and they don't usually fail.

You can still check it sitting inside the car, although you do get some funny looks from the neighbours when you are sitting motionless in a car in a parked car at night.

Tiger Seal.......

and with a Zirconia sensor you don't get a change in resistance, they generate the output voltage. The change from Titania was partly to make it easier to fall into line with the OBD2 standard which assumes 0-1V sensors (compared with the 5-0V from a Titania) and probably as a cost saving exercise (as they are a lot cheaper). Downside is that Titania don't need a hole for reference air so aren't affected by being dunked in water when wading whereas Zirconia aren't very happy with being submerged. If you've been thrashing down your lane to get to the garage, you could have killed them by filling them up with water (I know I've still got muddy water stains on the underside of my bonnet (and everywhere downwards of there) on mine from following you down there).

Hi Tony and welcome. This forum was created out of frustration after both myself and Gordon (Gordonjcp who built and hosts the site) managed to get ourselves barred for a week at a time from the other forum by Mr knowitall. Before I found that one I used the Range Rover section of Landrovernet.com but on there someone asls a question and they might get an answer in 3 or 4 days time, it is so quiet. The idea here is that it is like a pub. It's a group of mates sitting in a pub having a chat about cars (as we all tend to do anyway) so there's no swear filter (if you are working on a Land Rover, swearing is something you'll probably be doing quite a lot of) and we couldn't care less if a thread wanders off topic.

Despite you saying otherwise, your English seems pretty good to me. My sister's husband owned a house in Holland a few years ago and it was used like a holiday home for the family. The first time I went over he told me not to worry about the language as virtually everyone speaks English. His explanation was that the Dutch know nobody is going to learn their language so they all learn everyone else's. He was quite right, every Dutch person I have ever met has spoken perfect English.

The one you want to pull is Maxi fuse 2 (30A), that supplies power to the EAS pump.

Why not try pulling the EAS fuse so that doesn't run? Then you should be able to hear the ABS pump.

Took me about 2 to do the first but that was on my ex-police P38 that doesn't have the ducts to the rear footwells. As Gordon says though, even if you've the ducts they can be bent out of the way so you can thread the screwdriver in.

There's a few familiar names on here now, we're starting the migration......

The lambda feed to the LPG system should just be Tee'd into the signal wire from the sensors so shouldn't have broken the path at all. It's only so that the LPG diagnostic can display the lambda voltage to save you having to have an OBD reader connected as well as the LPG software. Might be worth hanging a meter on the lambda signal wires at the ECU to prove that the Nano isn't telling fibs.

Sounds that way. You shouldn't confuse the vibration from the ABS pump running to the EAS pump running. EAS pump is on the passenger side (left as looking from the drivers seat) and the ABS pump is on the right next to the fusebox. I though all Thor models had 4 wheel TC?

Martyuk wrote: was going to solder/heatshrink, but the sensor side wiring must not be copper (I presume to do with the heat) as it wouldn't take solder to it - so crimps it was.

No it isn't, they are stainless steel. You can solder to them but you need a very hot soldering iron. I've got a mains one that won't admit to what the wattage is but the longer you leave it on the hotter it gets. After half an hour you can damn near braze with it, that did it but I've used crimps instead before. Proper W crimp ones though not these horrible squash flat things.

Despite everyone saying it's an awful job, I've now done three lots and the last time it took me under half an hour. You need to remove the centre console side panel (one self tapper at the bottom then slide it down and out) and the panel below the steering column (4 screws). I find that putting the suspension on high and then kneeling on the floor next to the car gives the best view of them. No need to drain the cooling system as all you are going to lose is the contents of the heater matrix so a Tupperware sandwich box stolen from the kitchen when he missus isn't looking is ample to drain it into when you undo the clamp screw.

You'll need a long, and I mean LONG, 12" or longer, number 2 Pozidrive screwdriver to slacken off the clamp screw. If the screw doesn't want to slacken off, try tightening a fraction first and then undo it. Don't take it all the way out, leave a couple of turns on the end (it's a very long screw) so the pipes can be separated but don't flop around everywhere. Take the old O rings out (which will probably come out in pieces), make sure both sides are clean, dunk te new ones in anti-freeze, slip then on and push the two parts back together. If you give the pipes a bit of a wiggle as you do the screw back up, it'll make sure they are seated correctly.