The PLAs kick out a huge amount of interference which causes the hams to get all offended over the pollution of their spectrum (although quite why they think of it as theirs as they don't even have to pay for their licences any more). When BT Vision first started the box shipped with a pair of Commtrend PLAs and I spent most of my working day placating whinging hams and asking BT to get them swapped. After a while they stopped using them.

PLAs are all right as long as you don't have any radio hams nearby as they kick out a huge amount of interference and if they are Commtrend ones, they run very hot and after about 3 years, burst into flames.

dave3d wrote:

They said it was based on claims history, so I think we must come to the conclusion that we drive our cars harder in the UK.

Or we are more likely to complain when they fail.......

You've not got poly bushes in it by any chance?

Boge. That's what LR fitted in the first place (and no matter what else is included in the description, I'd avoid anything with Britpart in the name....). However, my ex-plod is on 16" wheels and 70 series tyres and the first thing I noticed with the SE on 18s and 55 series tyres was how much harsher the ride felt. I mentioned it in my local indie who simply said that you want 16s for comfort and 18s for looks.

Is it like another lifetime warranty I've come across? The one where you go to them and say, it's broke and they tell you that as it's broke it's reached the end of it's lifetime so the warranty has just expired?

Or is it like the Halfords lifetime warranty on their Professional tools? I sheared off a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter but I was using a 3/8" drive socket, then the adapter, and trying to undo something with a 1/2" drive, 2 foot breaker bar. Something was going to give and it was the adapter. For the hell of it I took the broken bits to Halfords with the intention of buying a new one and they swapped it free of charge!

From what I've heard about them, if you really must have the extra 2" height, then go for Gen 3 Arnotts, if you want to leave it at standard height, stick with Dunlops.

I wouldn't worry about it and just get it up to Ray at V8 Dev. The lip on the top hat liners will easily take up the damaged bit. Here's my motor after I picked it up but before I covered it up with all the other bits......

Orangebean wrote:

Now THAT would be ambitious for the weekend! I can spray, but only equipped for good old cellulose paint.

That would do it. I don't want it spraying with modern 2k crap, basecoat and lacquer is the only way to do it. That's all my man ever does and the finish he can get is amazing.......

Just drill a 10mm hole in the end of a lump of 1" steel bar. Don't drill in the centre but offset it to one edge. You can then put the head of one of the pulley bolts into the hole and rest the side of the bar against the shaft. That's my holding tool.....

I've promised mine a respray and interior valet before the end of August, anyone any good with a spraygun?

A lot of companies do that but with some it's the other way round. They charge more on eBay as everyone assumes they are getting a bargain on there.

If they've put the dye in it, you'll be able to see it really clearly with a UV light (one of those little handheld ones you can buy for checking security markings work well). When mine was leaking and only lasting a month or so, it was coming out the bottom corner of the condenser, one of the hoses from the compressor and one of the alloy pipes had a pinhole in it.

If it's OEM it should be OK. It means that it was made by the original equipment supplier but has got to the retail market via a different route than through Land Rover. It's when they say replacement part or aftermarket you need to worry.

Yes, it's much easier to just swap a hub, getting an old bearing off needs lots of brute force and a 50 tonne press in most cases.

9.7 if it is completely drained but about 6 litres are needed if you have drained it and taken the sump off but left the rest in the cooler and torque converter.

Being there or watching on TV?

Only difficult bit with the rears is getting the old ones out as they jam in at the top. I made a tool to lever them out but the second time I did them the R clips wouldn't shift so I just chopped the top off with an old wood chisel and they fell out.

Only difficult bit on the fronts is the clips at the top, a bit fiddly to get to.

9th - 10th July is out for me, I'll be working at Silverstone for the British GP.

In case anyone needs it, I've got a spare transfer box with a skipping chain but the range change motor, VC and the rest of it is OK. I also always carry a 3 tonne trolley jack and have a pair of 3 tonne axle stands too.

No need to put the axle on stands, jack the car up on the chassis and put stands under the chassis so the axle dangles. With the shocks still attached it can't go anywhere. Release the air pressure, and change them. Most methods say to take the inner wheel arch liners out but I didn't bother. You can pull them out and jam something behind them (block of wood, can of WD40, whatever you have laying around) so you can get in there.

Looks like you'll need to divide the hard standing outside the workshop into areas. You can have the seriously greasy stuff going on in the workshop with the LPG tuning on one side outside and the electrical troubleshooting on the other side......