It will be, it runs through the front cover where the timing chain runs. You'd need to worry if it wasn't and at least it stops that one from seizing in.....
I'd have lifted the radiator but that's fairly easy on mine. When I changed it a few years ago I found that the bolt holes for the two bolts at the bottom didn't line up so rather than putting strain on the bottom plastic part of the rad and causing it to leak at the join, I didn't bother fitting them. I figured that with the hoses, gravity, the two rubber mounts at the bottom and the two clips at the top, it was never going to move anywhere. It hasn't in 5 odd years so I don't think it's going to unless I move it myself.
I've got a set similar to this https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-crows-foot-imperial-wrench-set-10-piece/ that I bought when I needed just one for one particular job. They've sat in the bottom of my toolbox ever since and I only remembered them after I'd spent the best part of half an hour laying under the car looking at the pipe wondering how the hell I was going to get at the pipe union!
4 pin was never fitted on the front, only the 2 pin and only the later 4.6 had the 4 pin on the rear, 4.0 litre and diesel only ever got the 2 pin on both ends. You can fit an 4 pin on the front but it will be noisy as the gears are cut the wrong way. 4 pin is marginally stronger.
While you are in there, have a good look at the two short steel brake pipes, they are known to rust and aren't that easy to see. You'll need a crows foot spanner to undo the top fitting or you'll never get them off.
and following on from my post in the other thread, a floppy water pump would cause insufficient flow and it'll start to leak very shortly too.
Possible but unlikely, clogged radiator or insufficient flow for some reason is more likely.
I put in for 1 room, 1 night (the Saturday night) and it came up at £59. Not sure what you did to get £99......
I just checked, not bad at all, £59 for a standard room. Almost makes me want to break the habit of a lifetime and book it......
Rears do naff all anyway so drilled and grooved would be overkill. Fade is down the the pad compound rather than the discs anyway. Stick with the Delphi ones.
Blimey, that's organised. I don't even book family holidays until there's only a couple of weeks to go.
There's also been a couple of threads on the other forum where people have had problems (one a BeCM and another with a valve block) that a certain item couldn't be the cause as it had been rebuilt by the 'doctor'. After lengthy long distance diagnosis it turned out that it was the parts that had been operated on that were actually faulty. I get the impression he's like most of the other mechanics I've had dealings with in the US. Full of bull but f*cking useless.
Seems the 'specialists' are even worse. We ordered a complete front and rear competition suspension set up for a Volvo P1800 that we were restoring and upgrading (2.5 litre turbo 5 pot, 5 speed manual gearbox, fully independent front and rear end with discs all round and rack and pinion steering, digital dash, etc). £5k sent by bank transfer and never received anything other than lots of excuses. Ended up having to downgrade the spec and buy another scrap P1800 to use as a donor as the old stuff had been thrown away as we weren't going to need it.
Only US spec cars had SAI and downstream O2 sensors, none of the rest of world cars had either of them. US cars also run different firmware in the ECU to bring the CEL on if even the slightest little thing is found wrong whereas you can abuse the others and it still won't come on. I've run mine with intake temperature sensor, O2 sensors, MAF sensor, TPS, knock sensors and just about everything else to see if it will still run without them and still never seen the CEL. On a US car it'll come on if the wind is in the wrong direction......
You'll have upstream and downstream O2 sensors on yours, we only get the upstream ones on rest of world spec cars, but just because you've done away with the cats doesn't necessarily mean you'll get a CEL. The upstream sensors will be doing what they have always done, checking the emissions and causing the fuel trims to adjust to keep the mixture correct. The downstream sensors are there to check that what is coming out of the cats is clean and it will be if the upstream ones are doing their job properly.
As Dave says, you can get an adapter. A lot of the trailers at the hire place I use have 13 pin plugs and, as my P38 only has a 7 pin socket, they just fit an adapter. Some thing like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-pin-to-13-pin-Plug-Adapter-Converter-Trailer-Caravan-Truck-Towbar-Socket-/221271392112?hash=item3384cd7f70:g:uOwAAOSw4iRWExFt
Big windows are a security risk.... One of my bosses at work came from a particularly dodgy part of the MoD and had spent many years stationed in Berlin just on our side of the wall (when the wall was still there). So they could listen to what was being said inside a room on the other side of the wall, they would shine an infra red laser at the window and then look at the reflected beam. Any conversations going on in the room could then be extracted from the reflected beam.......
Here is a screen shot. I've got the button but get the red (ish) banner if I click on it.
Seems you might be getting there Gordon. At the bottom of the Oily bits and Electrikery forums there's a Moderator Mode button appeared. If I click on it I get told I don't have permission to moderate the forum, but it's a start.
But from Amazon? Surely if they offer something for sale at an advertised price, then they should honour it?
Not sure if the £7.50 heater matrix is going to materialise. Had an email from Amazon today that says:
_We're still trying to obtain the following item[s] you ordered on April 17 2016 (Order# 202-1742936-5929129).
"Nissens 71145 Heat Exchanger, interior heating"
We're awaiting a revised estimate from our supplier, and will email you as soon as we receive this information.
If you'd prefer to cancel the item, please visit Your Account on the link below:
_