The self levelling will drop 3 corners to match the lowest so if it settles down low, then one corner height sensor is reporting it is lower than it really is. I suspect if you'd looked closely, you'd have seen one corner sitting higher than the others, that will be the one with the iffy height sensor. If it rose normally on start up, the ECU hasn't detected that one is giving an out of range signal so it assumes everything is fine.

There's 2 pages on the Nanocom that will display the live readings from the sensors. On the Settings page you have to click on a button to update but on the Inputs page it shows target heights and actual in real time. If you start with the car at Access and tell it to go to High, you'll be able to see the numbers rise steadily as the car rises. You are looking for a sensor that either hangs at a certain output or suddenly jumps.

Good point, try 18 then......

If it has detected a height sensor out of range, it will log a fault and not try to do anything in case it damages things which probably explains why the pump isn't firing up. Use the Nanocom to check the readings from the height sensors at all heights. I suspect you will find a dead spot on the track on at least one.

I left mine naked as it is the foam that causes the leaks in the first place. Damp and dust get into the foam and that acts like sandpaper with the added advantage of moisture causing corrosion. Left open to the air and it shouldn't leak again. I just leave mine set at 20 degrees Auto so it keeps the car interior down to that rather than setting it any lower and getting frostbite!

They must do a leak test otherwise they wouldn't know you had one? They won't be able to tell you were from but that is a different job and way beyond their capabilities. ATS, or at least my local one when the missus took advantage of their cheap deal, use the programmable machine as they don't really understand what it is they are doing. When I did my full FGas course to allow me to install domestic AC systems, I asked what the difference was between the full week course I was doing and the 1 day automotive course. I was told that the automotive course only teaches how to do it and not why you are doing it that way or how the system works. I paid an additional exam fee so I could do both exams and get both qualifications. Compared with the FGas exam, the 20 question automotive exam was so simple although they allow 30 minutes to complete it, I did it in under 5 minutes!

The process is to use a recovery machine to slurp out any remaining refrigerant (if there is any in there in the first place), pressurise the system with Nitrogen at 10bar and leave it for a minimum of 30 minutes to check that the pressure hasn't dropped, release the Nitrogen then vacuum out to 1000 microns (0.019 psi), then refill with the correct quantity of refrigerant along with oil and dye (if you can be bothered). In comparison on a domestic/commercial system it is pressure tested at 42 bar for a minimum of 60 minutes and vacuumed to 150 microns (0.002 psi).

However, other than having at least one person that has sat the exam so they have the required qualification, the ATS/KwikFit, etc. places use a machine to do it. They connect the hoses, tell it how much refrigerant the car they are doing needs (or leave it at the default 600 grams as refrigerant has shot up in price and it will still work after a fashion with a short charge), press go and leave it to get on with it. If the machine detects a drop in pressure on the Nitrogen test, it stops and tells them there is a leak, so that is what they tell the customer. They've probably forgotten everything they were taught on the course as they don't need to know it, the machine does it all for them. What they don't think about is temperature differences and a car with a slight leak will still pass the test. The Nitrogen bottle is at ambient, you drive your car in so the engine is hot, Nitrogen is put in at 10 bar but for every 10 degrees C increase in temperature, the pressure will increase by roughly 0.5 bar, or 7 psi. So the pressure actually increases and as long as it doesn't leak more than the 0.5 bar that is taken up by the thermal expansion of the gas, the machine is perfectly happy. If the car is cold and the Nitrogen bottle is standing in the sun, the opposite happens. The pressure drops as the temperature falls and the machine says you have a leak when you haven't.

Bloody hell, you're alive!!!! I've been asked by a number of people if you were still about and I've had to tell them that you (and Nick) had gone AWOL. Welcome back mate, are you in the UK or did you just manage to find a bit of spare time to pop up on here?

Martyuk wrote:

As Gilbert says, some of the earlier MG latches work in a P38 - though some have an extra wire as I think they supplied a signal when the latch was locked aswell as when it was unlocked - from what I can remember anyway.

The difference with the MG latches is that instead of having 6+1 connectors, they have 6+2. The 2 way connector has the Black ground wire in it the same as the single connector on the P38 latch and the other wire is simply the grey from the latch that appears in two places, once in the 6 way and again in the 2 way so can be ignored if using it in a P38. The 6+1 latch and the later ones (99 MY onwards) that have the 8 way (but with only 7 ways used) are the same latch except for the connector, even the wire colours are the same, so an MG latch can be used in a later car if the 2 plugs are chopped off and the later plug fitted instead.

phazed wrote:

Definitely no sign of a leak under the bit of foam on the top corner although the alloy is corroded there.

If it taking the best part of a year to lose a charge,you only have an extremely tiny leak so the STP leak stop will almost certainly cure it for at least a couple of years. Bear in mind that the system runs at 10 bar so to lose 1250g of refrigerant in a year is an extremely small leak.

Well it's for things that leak, so will probably be correct. The most common leak point is the top corner of the condenser on the RH side (as seen from the driver's seat). If you take the slam panel off you will see there is a block of foam on that corner and it corrodes under the foam. You#ll only see anything with a UV torch if dye was put in with the refrigerant when it was gassed, you won't see the R134a without the dye. As it has been working but is slowly losing gas, there's no need to replace the drier. That is only necessary if the system has been left with only air in it for any length of time.

If you've got a Nano you can check to see if the pump is running. You can also see the state of the pressure switch and thermal switch in the pump. Looking at those might give you a clue as to what is going on.

Last things first. The clicking is normal as it will settle 3 corners to match the lowest when you switch off so it is sitting level (or at least all corners will be at the same height).

Pump will be inhibited if there is a soft fault which would explain why it started when you cleared the fault. The fact that it takes ages to rise suggests either the pump isn't supplying enough pressure or you have a leak at the reservoir or in the pipework to it so it loses all pressure meaning the pump has to fill it first before the car will rise.

I think when we did the grand headlining summer camp where we did 7 or 8 headlinings, Oatmeal was decided as the closest to the original for a Lightstone interior https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php even though the pictures on the website bear very little resemblance to the actual colours. Martrim will send you samples if you ask them so you can confirm for yourself.

Feed for the RH side speakers goes via another connector but the ETM doesn't show a location. It also doesn't make a lot of sense as it shows C0310 plugged into C0308 but C0308 is a 16 way and C0310 is an 18 way although the Green/Black and Black/Green are shown as on pins 3 and 4 on both. Looking at the ETM for earlier cars, shows the feed to the RH speakers as going via a connector behind the RH kick panel so maybe it is there and has suffered the dreaded green corrosion.

MG latches for the LH, passenger door are no good as they only have one microswitch and the P38 needs 2. That would explain why the plug is different, less switches needing less wires. You could fit a LHD LH MG latch though as that will have a full set of switches.

Later (mid 99 onwards) P38 latches have a single 8 way plug with only 7 ways used.

Somebody did post it a while ago but I have a feeling the trim codes A, B and C denote the trim level and not the colour, so trim code A would be what was fitted to a base model, B would be something like an SE and C would be HSE.

Yes, the two wires, or centre wire and screen, from the phono output to one side of the transformer with the Orange and Orange/Black to the other side of it.

I'm nocturnal, so can often be found posting late at night but not early in the morning (unless I'm in a different time zone that is). I regard 4am as late last night not early this morning......

They would but the pre-outs on the head unit are there to feed into an external amp which you don't have. One of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232575093087 should isolate the unbalanced sub output to the balanced input the sub amp expects to see.

Is there any slack on the lever? The fact that the lights shows correctly says that the gearbox and the XYZ switch are in sync and it is the lever that isn't. If you don't have any slack, then the cable needs to be adjusted.

Most likely the cable is stiff or needs adjustment. I've driven a number of cars where the gear shift is much stiffer than on both mine suggesting that a stiff cable isn't unknown. Does the light next to the gear lever show the position the lever is in or the gear you are in?

He's replacing the head unit and (dead) DSP amp so is using standard speaker level outputs from the head unit and linking the in and out at the DSP amp location via crossovers. So it is only the sub amp that expects to see a balanced input but is being fed with an unbalanced signal, hence the hum.

The bits at the sides rust but I've not seen one where the main bit across the back has rusted unless it's been used for launching a boat in salt water in the past. Try giving Phil (Holland&Holland on here) a call on 07803 582070. He's got a couple in for breaking at the moment.