There are different programmed tunes for different years and vehicles which will also explain the different part numbers. The GEMS System document lists them, download from https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q_h1Cs5eTk550HgYUa2xz-rErBdZawjV/view?usp=share_link

Lambda sensors usually keep to the same wire colours, so if the wires on the Subaru sensor match those on the LR sensor (see at the bottom of this page https://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mcolours.htm) it will be a straight swap. You could also use that site to check that the recommended universal sensor for the Subaru is the same as the one for the P38.

Too early for digs.... I'd suspect a sticky IACV as that is what controls the fuelling at idle. If sticking closed it will give a rich mixture until it warms up and unsticks itself.

PAS pump and AC compressor are in a different place so I suspect you'd need to swap over the mounting block for them too. It might be possible but you're the one with the two engines side by side so you're in the best position to judge.

Pulley is probably the same but it has different mountings and I think it is slightly further forward.

Thor bracket will fit but it won't line up, belt will be out of alignment. The GEMS is listed as having either a 100A or 120A and the higher power one is what should be fitted to a car with heated screen. See https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/alternator-4046-120amp-denso-amr2938-p-509.html.

I can't help I'm afraid but I don't use that version, I use the full version that was supplied to the main dealers on CD. If you want to try that one, it's on my Google drive here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc/view?usp=share_link&resourcekey=0-vHS47g5cRLxx8_RYv4IQ0g. However, it is an iso image file of the original CD and has an older version of Acrobat embedded. As an iso file, it needs to be burned to a CD first and can then be run from that or the entire CD copied to hard drive and run from there.

The buttons don't do anything (I don't think) but clicking on the vehicle type should.

Morat wrote:

Are lucas as bad as their reputation? I guess I could rebuild the current one and keep it on the shelf next to the EAS pumps 😀 😁

You've got a Lucas and it has died, 'nuff said.....

Be wary what you get, the mounting are different from GEMS and Thor, so when someone says it fits P38 94-02, it doesn't, it'll be one or the other. You need ERR5834 (150A) or ERR6413 (130A). The 130A one is a lot cheaper https://www.lrdirect.com/err6413-alternator-pwr (unless you go all posh and get a Bosch....).

I'm assuming this is a cage to hold 3 microswitches in place inside the latch mechanism. I need 3 as I've got a latch with an iffy keyswitch in the Ascot and 2 duff latches sitting on the bench waiting to be done. Might as well do them all then I'll at least have spares.

The blanks probably won't be needed unless they are to go in the space that a microswitch would go if it was needed. The passenger latch on a P38 still has all 3 switches even though only 2 of them are needed, the CDL and the door ajar switch. The MGTF passemger latch only has a door ajar switch though even though the drivers latch is identical to the P38 one.

Yes please, 3 for me if possible.

When I do them I don't lubricate anything. Some guides tell you to assemble it dry while others say to use Vaseline or Silicone grease. The problem with putting any lube in there is that any dust from the dryer (and there always will be some after a while) will stick to it and cause it to gum up much sooner than it would normally.

Do the check first to see which corner drops when left with the fuse out.

What happens when you double click rave-lr? Does it open a splash screen, a main menu screen with the different models it covers or just sit there and look at you?

Boberto wrote:

Thanks for your response to my private message earlier....somehow I've deleted it before reading it all 🤯
Not driven the car today so just gone out to it, on the bump stops, 20 seconds after starting it was up to standard profile. By morning it will be back to the bump stops.

Fortunately my reply is still in my Inbox, so a quick copy and paste:
If it is dropping when parked you may have a leak somewhere. Once the engine is turned off, 2 hours after it was switched off and then every 6 hours the EAS timer wakes up and it self levels. It does that by lowering the other 3 corners to match the height of the lowest. So if one corner has a leak it will drop, the timer will wake things up and lower the other 3 to the same height. Then the iffy one continues to drop so the other 3 are lowered again until it is sitting on the bumpstops. However, if the car is parked on an uneven surface so the suspension on one corner is compressed, it can see this as being low and lower the other corners.

The way to stop the self levelling is to pull the fuse that supplies the EAS ECU. This is fuse 44 on a GEMS car (up to 98) or fuse 29 on a later Thor car (99 onwards). Both these are in the underbonnet fusebox. Without the self levelling, if you have a leak on one corner, that corner will have dropped while the other 3 will stay up.

I think he is referring to the steel disc that sits inside the diaphragm, the one on the right here

Like this.....

That would suggest the diaphragm valve is leaking. Does it take longer than normal to fill the reservoir? When they split normally it doesn't build pressure as it all goes out the exhaust.

You can check to see if it is a pneumatic or electrical problem by pulling fuse 44 (pre-99) or fuse 29 (99 onwards) and seeing if it carries on dumping the air. If it does, it is the diaphragm valve, if it stops, you've got a weird electrical problem.

It doesn't matter, it's the same ECU for a 4.6 and a 4.0. You can change the engine size from 4.6 to 4.0 with a Nano.

Is it dumping all the air or is it just the normal self levelling when you switch off and get out of the car?

Not so sure. I fitted a 98 engine, complete with engine loom, into a 97 car. As the 97 and 98 use different O2 sensors the plugs were different so we left them disconnected thinking it would detect they weren't there and run a default fuelling strategy. Car fired up and ran normally but when taking it for a run, it adjusted the mixture so it got progressively weaker and weaker until it would no long run. The GEMS sensors are 5-0V Titania which give 0V when rich, so, thinking it was running very rich, it just kept leaning the mixture off. Rather than modify the looms, I made up 8 short lengths of cable with male and female connectors to connect them and it ran perfectly after that.

However, this was on a UK car intended to have the sensors so an Aus spec ECU may respond differently. Or, as long as you've got a Nano to use the security learn feature, fit the ECU from one of the cars without the sensors so it won't expect to see them.

There's 3 different ones for the V8 and 2 for the diesel. V8 are 94-97, 98 and 99 onwards while diesel are 94-98 and 99 on. According to Island 4x4 they have:
V8 94-97 in stock at £599.99
V8 99 onwards in stock at £999.99
Diesel 94-98 in stock at £599.99
Diesel 99 onwards in stock at £194.99

So for anyone with a late diesel, best buy one now and put it on the shelf until it will be needed. But everyone else will need deep pockets unless you happen to be, like me, with a 98 V8, there's a problem. I've got an iffy one I replaced 3 or 4 years ago, when they were only just over £100, that I think will be being pulled apart and refurbished and kept for the just in case moment.

It would be worth finding out what the differences are but ideally that needs someone with multiple ones to compare. Underbonnet wiring loom is different between a 97 and a 98 so there must be differences.....

No way Nigel. Your tapping was definitely valve gear, a cam follower or rocker arm. If it was the head gasket it would have blown completely years ago.