If the door unlocks with the fob, then it is likely the rod from the lock has come adrift. Fobs will lose sync if the battery is disconnected but it won't affect physical locking, that is purely mechanical.

Take the belt off and spin all the pulleys to see which one is rattling. If they all feel OK, fit a new belt (or fit a new belt anyway)

Warm engine yes, as when cold they will read permanently rich. Check both at idle and with some revs on.

Probably too big as I have 16" wheels but I'll have a measure up.

Bugger, Ikea don't do postal delivery and my nearest store is in Milton Keynes, over an hour each way.....

Hmm, interesting. I once made a steering wheel for a go-kart from the lid of a pressure cooker and a length of heater hose......

Can't find anything with Google but a good starting point would be to measure the shield and look for pie dishes of the right diameter.

They've also been put on wrong with no space between Range and Rover. Comparing it with David's pictures of M247 (M2 15), the bumpers have been painted and the front foglights added too. I wonder if LR Historic will be able to supply a build sheet for it so you can find out exactly what was and wasn't fitted originally?

M2 14 SDV, M2, number 14, Special Development Vehicle

The same spec as David's was then, 4.0 litre V8, manual and SE trim level.

To embed a picture it needs to be a .jpg file, so the link needs to be https://ibb.co/PjcwTGp.jpg or similar (that doesn't work though).

My photo of M751 was taken a couple of years ago at a Land Rover get together at Billing Aquadrome, Northampton. I was interested as my car is a '98 ex-Greater Manchester Police motorway patrol car.

Pete12345 wrote:

simply because I can view the flip-flop on my iPhone !!

Poser....

Agreed, the Nano is a bit slow so only refreshes about once a second but will still show the changes. If it isn't changing then the reading will stay the same but even with the slow refresh rate you'll still see changes.

Lambda sensors should flip flop between 0V and 1V, MAF should show 20kg/hr at idle rising to 61kg/hr at 2,500 rpm. Both figures plus or minus 3kg/hr.

Nanocom can do it as you've been using that for the faults so you don't need another diagnostic reader.

Welcome. For Bolt's information, there was a batch of, I believe, 50 pre-production cars built in early 1994 in every different spec that was going to be offered for sale, so 4.0 litre, 4.6 and diesel, auto and manual, base spec through to HSE and a few specials such as at least one liveried up as a police demonstrator. These were all registered with MxxxCVC numbers so are known as the CVC cars. That one is one of the very first being M246, the police liveried one was M751CVC. They were the ones that were originally shown to the press prior to the official launch and offered to deaers to get their verdict on it too.

DavidAll on here did a total restoration on M247CVC, so the very next one to be registered, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1465-cvc-update

Hopefully the vents are stuck on and someone hasn't butchered the wings. The wheels are very late Vogue SE ones too. Just a shame you have no idea which wheels it was fitted with originally to put it back to standard as the CVC cars were fitted with the various ones that were available at the time.

Both of mine on the rear are scrap. The nearside one came adrift, caught on the inside of the wheel and folded itself almost in half. Offside one brackets had broken too so for the time being, I've taken them both off. My old Classic didn't have either of them there all the time I owned it. They don't do that much anyway and at £100+ each I intend using the remaining one as a pattern to make a couple in aluminium. I did think about cleaning it up and taking a mould so I could make a batch in fibreglass but figured I'd never get it clean and shiny enough to be able to pull a mould off. If I had a brand new one that might be a possibility but for now I'm going to go down the alloy route.

Lpgc wrote:

What are the chances that someone spliced in 5>0v sensors instead of the 0>1v sensors? I know that in this company I have no need to mention that with the 5>0v sensors a 5v signal; points to lean and a 0v signal points to rich...So if a fitter had mixed up their P38 models and spliced in 5>0v sensors on a model that should use 0>1v sensors there would be constant rich running error codes and the fuel trims might be leaned off leading to reduced engine torque, the engine would still rev but the car would lack power and go up through the gears slowly.

Pretty remote. Not only are the electrical plugs different so you can't mix them, but I understand the threaded boss in the downpipes are a different size for precisely this reason, so you can't fit the wrong ones.

If you swap them from side to side you may find it will be OK for a while as it will be using a different segment of the track, but originals are much better. I find secondhand originals from a breaker to be far better than brand new pattern.....

Use the Nanocom to look at the live data, particularly the output from the lambda sensors. The Thor has standard 0-1V sensors with 0V meaning lean and 1V meaning rich, Both at idle and when being driven you should see these flip flopping between the two extremes. I suspect they have failed (and if original I suspect they have well outlived their lifetimes) so are giving 0V output, that makes the ECU think the engine is running lean so it will try to bucket more petrol in to get it right. Obviously this has doesn't happen so the fuel trim adaptive values reach the limit of what is expected and gives the codes. If you reset the adaptive values it will be OK for a short period until it corrects what it sees as an error in fuelling.

Front Right height sensor is giving low readings, either a bad connection at the plug, a worn out sensor or an almost new pattern one that has reached the end of its life. What is happening is that the system thinks the front right is too low so is sending more air to it to try to get it correct. That means the front right will be very high, the front left will be higher than it should be (as no matter how much rust you have on your chassis, getting it to twist is pretty nigh on impossible) and the rear will be a bit lopsided too.

Try just disconnecting the blue wire to the receiver for starters. That will reduce the operational range of the receiver and may be enough to stop it.

No,rear headrests removed and sitting on top of the front headrests, pushed right up as far as the sun visors and, as it was fractionally wider than the tailgate opening, the back of it was sitting on the side supports either side. So even the tailgate would close. With me driving it was sitting on the top of my head but as the missus is slightly shorter than me, it was above her head so she drove it. Rear view mirror was a bit superfluous though.....

I've managed to get a 8 x 4 (2.44 x 1.22 m) sheet of plywood in the back of a P38. The rear tailgate opening is 1.2m but with the back seats folded down, you should be able to get it in on the diagonal.

See if you can see the horseshoe shaped bit of plastic that the interior handle connects to. If that has stuck at one end of the travel, you won't be able to open the door. If it has, poke it with a long stick so it sits central and the door should open.