That's true, diagnostic line goes through the timer relay on the extra pins.

On a V8 it isn't built into the radiator, it's in front of it. There's the radiator and in front of that is the AC condenser with the engine and gearbox oil coolers sandwiched in between. On the diesel the engine oil cooler is in the same place but you have the intercooler between the radiator and AC condenser so there isn't room for the gearbox oil cooler too, hence it being tucked away where the V8 has a front foglight.

I think the L322 has either the oil or transmission cooler built into the radiator though.

With the Nanocom, all systems need the ignition on or engine running, only the BeCM needs it to be off.

EAS data line goes through the connector on the passenger side. So does the feed between EAS ECU and dashboard switch.

EAS uses a different pin in the OBD port to the others, so corrosion on the OBD port is favourite.

It does seem a bit odd. 255 is, or should be, the width in millimetres so that is what they all should be, although looking here https://tiresize.com/calculator/, the width doesn't appear to be the tread width but the sidewall width at their widest point. The red one I've recently got has 255/55 x 19 Goodyear Wranglers on it and the tread width on those measures 250mm but the sidewalls don't 'bulge' out beyond the tread by much at all and at the widest point would be around 255mm.

My car is on 7" x 16" wheels with 235/70 x 16 Kleber all season tyres, (which is usually a Disco or base model P38 size and that was what plod specified when it was new) and they measure around 210mm across the tread but 235mm at the widest point of the sidewall.

Aragorn wrote:

Perhaps you can find a good used switch instead of spending £100+ on a new one?

I suspect you'd be able to pick up a used cooler complete with switch for a lot less than a new switch.

On a slight tangent but still in the same area, has anyone else noticed a change in exhaust note when the transmission gets up to temperature and the Torque Converter locks up? I live just over half a mile from the A1(M) so no matter where I am going, it always involves going on the motorway. Drive along at constant throttle at around 60mph and after about 3 miles, the revs drop by about 250rpm and the car starts to accelerate? I never used to notice it but since I fitted the Gravity stainless exhaust, I can hear a change in exhaust note as if I have given it more throttle. Has anyone else noticed the same?

Unless you do a lot of towing heavy things up hills in very hot weather, chances are the fan would never come on anyway so even if the fan did wear out through constant use, it probably wouldn't be any great loss. The transmission cooler on a V8 is where your intercooler is and that doesn't have a fan.....

That's good news. It may be that Customs assumed the parts were new and the price had been under declared in an attempt to pay a reduced duty rate. I always mark anything leaving the country as USED which explains a low value.

They aren't the temperature sensors, they are the AC pressure and trinary sensors that live in that area. If you look at the picture closely, you can see that the alloy pipe is going into the top of the receiver dryer.

Of the part numbers you quote, STC3338 is a thermostat but the other two numbers are for a sensor which, as you say, is a flat sensor with 2 holes in it looking like it should bolt onto something. It is very similar in appearance to the one attached to the side of the transmission cooler on a V8 (ESR4329). Looking at that picture it appears there is something with red wires to it on the outer edge of the cooler and the picture here https://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/partslist?veh=rr_p38a&sec=elec&sub_sec=transsense shows the sensor to have red wires to it.

RAVE doesn't seem to show the location of the switch but it does show the location of the connector to it (C1505) as in the LH front corner of the engine bay but as it looks to have a long wire to it, that doesn't really tell you anything.

About 15 years ago I advertised a motorcycle on eBay and that was bought by a guy from Ireland. He turned up in a van with 4 other bikes in it and had two more to pick up before going back as he reckoned they were far cheaper here than in ROI. Whether they were being sold in one piece or broken down to be sold as spare parts I've no idea.

It certainly sounds as though Customs there are being particularly picky. I generated my own commercial export invoice in Word simply with my name and address along with the buyers name and address as I don't have a company, in this respect, I'm a sole trader. Much the same as a breaker I would suspect.

I was going to suggest using RLD in France to make things simpler but their prices are a bit steep (https://www.rld-autos.com/fr/pieces-land-rover/range-rover-p38/37-abs-et-pieces). Your alternative would be to use someone like Island or Rimmers who are geared up for export. Admittedly, genuine won't be cheap though although Island do Europarts ABS sensors for £20 each. .

I had to replace my fuel pipes recently as the return had started to leak. Fortunately, as I run on LPG most of the time I was able to remove the fuel pump relay and run on LPG all the time until I could do the job. I replaced the fuel pump and the pipes from that were just as corroded as the pipes above the tank, so I at least had something solid to attach to. I used a short length of good quality 7.9mm ID fuel hose with proper fuel hose clips (not Jubilee clips as they can squash a hose into D shape) to connect to the pump then replaced the steel pipes above the tank with 8mm copper central heating microbore pipe. Total cost was £20 for 5m of copper pipe and another fiver or so for hose and clips.

The French Customs are pretty easy going compared with the Dutch who it seems the Irish have taken lessons from. I went over on the Harwich to Hook of Holland ferry with a car transporter trailer to collect a car in Rotterdam and take it to SW France. Then pick up another to do a return pick up in SW France and drop off in Rotterdam. Seeing a UK registered car with an empty trailer waiting to get on the ferry to come home, Dutch Customs grilled me thinking I had bought a car over from the UK. I was tempted to take some sandwiches with me. As my missus is from Latvia she buys Latvian bread from a specialist shop here, so I could use that with Lurpak butter (Danish), Elemental cheese (Dutch) and Italian ham. Then I could tell them I wasn't importing anything, I was repatriating it......

Having recently taken over 3 grands worth of equipment to France and had to jump the hoops for exporting commercial goods into the EU from UK (and pay the 2% import duty and 20% VAT equivalent), and posted P38 parts to the USA, it isn't rocket science. Origin of parts, UK, commodity code for ABS sensors 8708309190 and for seat belt buckle 8708219000 (2 minutes on the online tariff) and for the invoice there will have been one from the seller (even if only an eBay invoice).

I agree, it is a direct result of Brexit but it does seem that ROI customs are being particularly picky, a bit like Dutch Customs were seizing truck driver's ham sandwiches as you can't import items of animal origin into EU from the UK.

I'll probably use PTFE gas tape (thicker than water PTFE tape), on the rings if there is any wobble once the rest of the car is sorted out. The wheels are nice but the newest tyre on it is dated 2003 and they are all badly perished so they will need replacing before it is used. Once it has a set of decent tyres and they've been balanced, if it has a wobble I'll do something about it but for the time being I'll leave them. Got bigger fish to fry as they say, there's still a lot of work to do on it.

I think the 'Unknown Fault' on Nanocom is the same as the 'Vehicle Has Moved' in EASUnlock, it always appears but doesn't mean anything.

You won't need axle stands, all you are doing is jacking it up, fitting the blocks and lowering it down again so it sits on the blocks.

Don't just try and do one end, do both front and rear at each height. Ideally it is a 2 person job and you will need two decent jacks. Drop the suspension down to Access (this lets the air out of the springs), jack up both ends (on the chassis) and fit the High blocks, lower the jacks so it is sitting on the blocks then use the Nanocom in Settings mode. With two people you can do an end each rather than having to keep running around the car at every change. Click the Live button which will cause the figures on the right of the screen to show the current height sensor readings, click the Arrow button at the centre of the screen which will change the Stored numbers to the Live numbers. Hit Save (or Record?) and a box will appear twice and tell you they have been saved.

Then jack it up, remove the High blocks, fit the Standard blocks, lower it again and do the same thing. My blocks are home made ones from 30mm Nylon rod and I found that the Access blocks are about the same height as the bumpstops making it difficult to get them out again so I drilled and tapped an M6 thread in the end of them so I can screw a bolt into them to pull them out.

Something I did about 2 hours ago was a calibration. Where the car was parked it was very uneven so we moved it to somewhere a bit flatter. As Garvin says, as long as it is flat enough that the car is sitting on all 4 blocks, that is good enough.

The one I was doing it on has had all sorts of weird EAS faults, constant EAS Fault on the dash, rising to off road height or dropping to the bumpstops with no obvious reason. The owner had taken it to an independent specialist who had replaced the height sensors but when moving it from one height to another, the changes in reading weren't constant, both fronts were jumping about. New height sensors were cheap pattern ones, changed them for used originals and everything was as it should. The saved setting were all over the place too, at one height, front left at 119 and front right at 133, so calibrated it and we now have the biggest difference side to side of 2 bits at all heights.

As Aragom has said, there are no default figures as they will be different from one height sensor to another depending on the exact mounting position and resistance of the track.

But if one side or one corner isn't doing what it should, the most likely cause is a bad connection between the driver pack and the solenoid coils so that one isn't opening when it should. No amount of calibration changes will affect that. the fact that you have to press the rocker a number of times to get it to change would seem to confirm that.

Unlike the other project I've been working on while waiting for the front cover, refitting the rebuilt engine in my boat. The engine is a 4.3 litre V6 Mercruiser which is basically 3/4 of a 5.7 small block Chevy (I know people rave about them but in my opinion possibly the worst designed engine on the planet). It was removed from the boat for a rebuild last year but multiple delays meant it wasn't ready until about December and has sat there waiting to be put back in its home ever since. Problem is that as it is all cast iron, it weighs the best part of 150kg and as the boat is on a trailer the sides of the boat are about 6 feet above ground level and it has to be lifted over that and lowered into place. Ended up taking it to a mate's farm where we attached a chain hoist to the forks of a telehandler and lifted it in using that. Spent a day and a half bolting it in properly and attaching all the ancillaries and, with a hosepipe stuffed into the coolant intake at the back, tried to start it.
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Starter spun it over nicely, accelerator pump in the carb squirted fuel but the best it could manage was a couple of pops out of the exhaust and a flame out of the carb. Decided that it must be ignition timing. I bought the boat with a blown engine (it had been run out of the water and had melted 2 of the pistons amongst other things) and when taking it out, it became apparent that someone had been in there before me. I had been very careful and dot punched the distributor so it could be put back on in the same place as it was before I took it off. Unfortunately, my neighbours timing light (I've got one somewhere but it is so long since I used it I have no idea where it is) showed it to be at about 50 degrees BTDC rather than the 10 it should have been. Set it and it still refused to start, it was even worse, no pops out of the exhaust just a flame out the top of the carb. Checked the firing order, the plug leads in the dizzy cap and they were correct so what else? The only thing now is could it possibly be 180 degrees out? Swapped the HT leads around on the distributor cap and sure enough, it started. Seems that whoever had been in there before had just bunged it on anywhere and I had assumed it was correct.

Too many projects, too little time.....