Unlikely to be the head to manifold joint if it suddenly got worse from booting it. Might be from the manifold to downpipe joint (and it's blown a bit of gasket out) or it could be the manifold itself. Manifold to downpipe isn't too bad. 3 nuts on M10 studs. Nuts might come off (with the aid of Plus Gas) or the studs will unscrew, it doesn't really matter. If the manifold needs to come off, all bar one of the bolts are easy enough to get at, one, the furthest to the front on a passenger side (rather than the one furthest to the back on the drivers side), can be a pain.

Get a bit of plastic tube and, with the engine idling, shove one end in your ear and wave the other end around the manifold. You should be able to identify where it is blowing from.

Those of us that run LPG know which stations have closed and which are still there. Some parts of the country are well supplied while there are areas that aren't. It depends how you intend using the car. If you are going to be using it every day and doing long distances (as I do), then running on half price fuel definitely makes a difference. If it is going to be used at odd times for short journeys, then run on LPG when you can and petrol when you can't.

This thread refers to the door latches not the handles but you don't need new handles at all. This thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless details how to rebuild the door handles with new internals so they no longer stick, STC3064 is the kit for the RH handles while STC3063 is for the LH handle. About a fiver each......

Surely just going into an LR main dealer and ordering through them is more convenient? JaguarLandRoverClassic.com, is Land Rover themselves so you just order through a main dealer and it is ready to collect the next day.

EJD101600 is the part number and in stock with Land Rover https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/ejd101600-shedder-front-door-water.html.

Listed by a number of other suppliers but all around the same price. Advantage with getting it from LR is you can just go into a main dealer and order it through them, no problems with duty or VAT like you'd get buying from the UK.

Shell at Addlestone is cheap and there's 3 more expensive (99.9 per litre) near Heathrow so not a complete oasis like some areas of the country. The thing is, just because you've got LPG you don't necessarily have to use it, you can always run on petrol if you have to (or have money to burn). I'm lucky in as much as I have 5 filling stations within 10 miles so can always fill up near to home. When I'm going any distance, or over the range of a full tank, I can check the autogas.app to find somewhere on my route where I can fill up. Not much difference to the range anxiety that EV drivers talk about (other than it takes me a lot less time to fill up), it just might require a bit more forward planning.

Deleted your duplicate. If the LPG system works, leave it. If it doesn't, fix it, they aren't complicated and a 210 mile trip for around £50 has got to be worthwhile. What system is it? Does it have additional LPG injectors per cylinder or just a mixer attached to the throttle body?

The way it's riding the bumps it's still on air too.....

With a big long socket extension and a breaker bar, you can do it with the wheel on the ground and the suspension on High. Not that difficult at all.

You've got a pretty strict tester there though. If it was bad enough to fail the test I would have thought you would hear it when going over bumps.

There's a 6 way Supaseal connector at the front of the gearbox loom. On a V8 it lurks behind the LH cylinder head, between the head and the bulkhead, so I would expect it to be in the same place on a diesel. It was that one on mine that caused problems as it looked fine until I touched it and two of the wires fell out. The other one is under the centre console (for the wiring that comes out through the floor towards the back of the gearbox and transfer case) and a real pain to get to but on mine it was perfect. Being where it is, it is pretty unlikely that it can get wet and moving the wiring around is unlikely to disturb it. I would suspect the one at the front as the loom will have been hanging on that when you changed the gearbox. I cut the connector out and soldered it through with a piece of multicore cable (leaving enough slack so it can be moved out of the way rather than having to disconnect it if I need to).

I've never touched mine and although it is 3 years newer that yours, it's done 469,000 miles. So I suspect not.....

That's odd? I'd clear the fault and give it another go.

If you've got the EVAPs charcoal canister next to the bulkhead behind the EAS box and it has two hoses going into the top of it (rigid plastic pipes), you don't have advanced. If you've got it and it has a third hose coming out of the top and going downwards or you don't have the charcoal filter box but have a box mounted on top of the RH chassis rail, you have advanced.

Yes, C1 or C2 depending on whether you have advanced EVAPS or not.

You've got a misfire on cylinder 6 (the 0306 code) with very intermittent misfires on the other cylinders hence the multiple misfire code (0300). You can normally ignore a P1000 code as it will go away after a full set of drive cycles have been completed. Check or change the spark plugs, clear the faults and run it through the drive cycles (Drive cycles are in RAVE, Section 17 (Emission Control), pages 2 and 3), that should stop the P1000 codes from coming back.

The last mild steel one I got was an Allmakes from Maltings Off Road but I've recently fitted a stainless rear section to mine as I was getting fed up with having to change the exhaust every 50-60,000 miles.....

See https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620-what-have-you-done-to-your-range-rover-today?page=60#pid38972

Nanocom just shows a number between 0 and 255 for fuel level so when your problem is there, it will show 0 or very close to that. If the gauge just drops it means the wiper has found a high resistance part of the track but is still seeing something (so the Nano will show a low number), if it comes up with 'fuel gauge fault' it has gone open circuit so would show 0. Turning it off may correct it or even going around a sharp corner so the float is moved will do the same. When mine hits the dead spot, even going over a bump is sometimes enough to wake it up again.

Sounds like you need a new fuel pump as that incorporates the gauge sender. If you have a factory made hatch, then you have some sort of prototype as the P38 never had a hatch. I suspect someone may have been in there before to try to cure the same fault. Or they just cut the carpet in the hope of finding a hatch and when they didn't, ignored it.

Problem with the website, https://twitter.com/rimmerbros?

Hmm, yes it was down last night and still is this morning.....

Hopefully just a website problem.

I agree with Brian. If it does it at odd times because it can, then a dodgy connection between the tank sender and BeCM. If it always does it when you have roughly the same amount of fuel in it, then it will be a dead spot on the carbon track on the sender. Mine has the same fault when I am just below the 1/4 mark but that is because the tank level has sat around that point for all the time I've owned the car as that is the amount I normally keep in as a reserve in case I run out of LPG. I've actually got a brand new fuel pump in the garage that I bought well over a year ago but haven't got round to fitting yet.