Dash out is not a fun way of spending a couple of days, it isn't difficult just very laborious. With a right angle screwdriver it is possible to get the blend motors out without cutting the duct (although you will need to if you are doing the heater core O rings). Don't try to drive the motors from the HEVAC with them not connected as that will also bring up a fault as they will travel further than normal.

Book symbol will go out if no faults are found. If the problem is the blend motors you can sometimes reset it by unplugging the blend motor plug, turning the ignition on for 10 seconds, then off again. Then plug back in and try ignition on again. It will go out but if the fault is still there will come back on after a few seconds when it tries to check them, or immediately if there is another fault detected. Odd that you can't hear them with the battery though.

If you take the instrument cluster out (4 screws, one at each corner), you can see the blend motors. Do NOT turn the ignition on with the cluster unplugged (that will give you an SRS fault) but it can be moved to one side so you can see the blend motors moving when you tell them to.

Chrisp38 wrote:

the rear wabcos are still good but I don't know how old they are

Probably the same age as the car.....

They are the same, irrespective of which side the steering wheel is on. The handle mechanism is the same, the handles are the same just the a RHD RH handle has the lock. There would be nothing to stop the owner of a LHD car fitting a RHD, RH handle to their passenger door. It would just have a lock in it that wouldn't do anything.

I must confess though, I bought both STC3063 and STC3064 from Land Rover (ordered them through my local dealer and picked them up the next day) just before everyone started saying the RH one was NLA so suspect I am the guilty party that got the last one..... However if enough people go on the JLR site and click the Notify Me button, they will re-manufacture them, that is how they are doing it. If there is demand they will make them (or buy them in from their sub-contractor that made them in the first place).

Up to you. If I've needed an ABS sensor I've always gone to my local dismantler (Avenger 4x4) and got a second hand genuine Wabco. He charges me £20 a time. If the Britpart really is OEM, then you wont go far wrong but I know some people have found aftermarket ones to not last long.

Yes, the cone makes sure it seats properly and doesn't go in lopsided. The O ring won't seal if it isn't flat into the hole.

The most likely cause is the cable is sticking and after you have opened the door it isn't returning fully. Whether the cable has been kinked so it binds but if you pull it all the way back and let it spring back, that is moving it enough to fully return. It isn't likely to be the latch or it would do the same if you open it from the outside handle. You need the door card off (again, hopefully you haven't fitted your new shedder yet) and then operate the interior handle few times while watching the horseshoe shaped lever that the cable is attached to and making sure that returns fully.

I don't think they are lead, more likely Mazak aka Monkey Metal.

It's been discontinued but it is only an IP67 rated, SPDT microswitch so as long as you get one the correct size, any old switch will do the job. RS and CPC have plenty to choose from.

The ones for a LHD car are no good to you. The passenger side, your driver's side, only has one microswitch so won't work in a P38. The LH one, driver's side on a LHD car would work in your passenger door though. RHD diver's ones are available at around half the price of a P38 latch from https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/mgf-mgf14-exterior-bodyshell-panels/door-lock-rh-mgf-tf-rhd-fqj102262pma. This one has the 6+1 plug used on a pre-99 car so the plug would need to be changed to the 8 way plug (with only 7 wires used) to fit a later car.

I bought a job lot of 13 for £120. Worked my way through some of them, one had a duff driver pack, one had NRVs that were completely shot but by cannibalising one I've got 2 rebuilt and tested ones at the moment. I bought some cheap pressure gauges and lengths of hose so can pressurise them from the dead, but now rebuilt, compressor that the seller chucked in with them, open each valve in turn with a gauge on each output and confirm it holds pressure. They seem to go for around £100-120 for rebuilt and fully tested ones but I've seen ones that are an unknown quantity for up to £80.

So that's 5 already, you'd best get him on to it.

and Thule roof bars. I've got a set of those that I put on if I need to carry a ladder, the rest of the time they stay off as they howl horribly at anything over 50mph.....

Very true, going from occasional contributor to part time employee almost. Not that it matters as the search function on this site works so people can still find it.

My experience with the TBH is that they will leak on the GEMS but all that is needed is a new gasket with a bit of Hylomar. I did mine about 5 years ago, didn't have a gasket so made one from gasket paper and it hasn't leaked since. However, just about every Thor I have looked at has had the tell tale crystalline deposits on it and on the rocker cover beneath it. Maybe they are more prone to leaking?

Yes you can. When you turn the ignition switch to position 3, it provides a ground to the BeCM. If the BeCM has received a valid unlock code, it allows that ground through to the starter relay. By linking the two pins it allows the ground to go directly, bypassing the BeCM, but it won't make any difference if the original wiring is left attached or not.

That makes more sense, yours is the same as all the others. You can lock with the key and unlock with the fob with no problems just not the other way round.

I would think it is the actual manifold that has split at the flexi section and not just the gasket.

That would be extremely useful. I've got two dead door latches sitting on my bench and an intermittent one in the Ascot that need something doing with them.

It must have split completely to make as much noise as it was. Have they taken it off and definitely confirmed it?

I've experienced icing years ago on an old carb equipped car with a non-standard air filter so it didn't have the intake tube that you were supposed to position so it drew air in from next to the exhaust manifold in winter. It would start fine, idle OK, set off and die within a couple of hundred yards. Opening the bonnet and looking down the , the 'mouth' of the carb was full of ice. That would only happen when cold, but not necessarily below freezing, and damp (foggy). As the air is accelerated through the venturi, it is cooled which, if there is a lot of moisture in the air, will condense on the cold metal and freeze.

Whether or not we need it in the UK will depend on a lot of things. Yes we get cold weather (I once read that around 3 degrees would be optimum for it to happen), we also get a lot of moisture but there is less of a venturi in an injection throttle body than in a carb where the accelerated air is used to draw the fuel in from the jets in that venturi. It will also depend on how you drive the car. If you start it then run it at idle for a minute or so (while waiting for the 3 Amigos to go out, or just reversing from a driveway for instance) before setting off, there will be enough heat around it that it won't happen. Start the engine and immediately set off down the road and it is far more likely.

How did we go from ABS to throttle body heaters in one thread?