You mean you broke down on my doorstep? I'm in Stilton, just off J16 of the A1(M), one junction down from the services. To properly check UJs you need to disconnect them or at least have a wheel on each axle off the ground. Rear radius arm bushes are dead easy to change, the front ones involve a big press and lots of swearing at them. CV joints make the usual CV joint clunk, clunk, clunk on full lock, but stay quiet when straight ahead so it doesn't sound like a CV joint.

Is it a continuous clunk or just as you change from accelerating to decelerating? If it is just with a change of load, it could be a propshaft UJ on its way out.

If the alarm has been triggered the immobiliser will also be set. The jumper will allow you to turn the engine over on the starter but if the car is immobilised the BeCM won't have sent to correct code to the ECM so you'll have no sparks or fuel injectors turned on unless your ECM has been modified for free running as Bolt has said. The big clue on a GEMS is if the Check Engine light comes on with the ignition. If it does the ECM has received a valid code, if it doesn't, it hasn't.

If the CDL switch had died it is possible that it wouldn't cause the other door to unlock. But, if the CDL switch had died you wouldn't be able to enter the EKA as that uses the CDL switch to tell the BeCM which way you are turning the key.

If it needs the EKA putting in, it will only unlock the drivers door. Once the EKA is in and accepted, then they should all unlock.

Like I say, there is a tiny surface mount 5V regulator in the upgraded receiver which has been known to fail. I know Marty has repaired a few of them. Do you have an earlier one you can put in to try?

You were turning the key in the lock while pressing and holding the fob buttons? You need to turn to lock and hold there while you press the lock button, return to centre, then turn to unlock, hold there, and press and hold the unlock button. If you can successfully enter the EKA then the latch microswitches are fine so that isn't your problem.

The upgraded receivers have been known to fail though.

Elements can be repaired, it's almost always the one in the base that breaks as people will insist on sitting on it. Repair isn't difficult but very fiddly, see https://web.archive.org/web/20180513085246/http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/seats/seatheat4.html

Got partway through reading and was about to say the other way of lifting it with the Nano is to go into the outputs, open the valves, then on the next page, open the inlet valve. Doing it that way doesn't matter if the doors are open or not or if he engine is running or not.

As for the starter, I bought a used one for mine, fitted that, then took the original into a local auto electricians who fitted new contacts in the solenoid and brushes in the starter.

Sorry Clive, for once I have to totally disagree with you. Having a dead P38 HK DSP amp here the output stages are TDA8563Q Class-B amps. The output from the head unit is analogue at around 2.5V p-p so higher than normal line level (1V p-p) but lower than speaker level but only with two channels, left and right, the fade between front and rear is done by the amp. There is a data line from the head unit that controls the balance, fade, bass, sub level and treble. I will admit that the P38 amp is pretty basic compared with modern systems with just the presets for Spacial and Driver but it was designed when DSP was in its infancy.

In contrast, the Kenwood head unit I have in my car is pretty damn good. I know the theory of how it works but still can't get my head around how it actually achieves it. As well as a number of presets (Natural, Pop, Rock, Easy, Top 40, Jazz and Powerful) it also has full manual control of the 9 band graphic (which it took a mate, a retired sound engineer, the entire journey to the Dutch/German border to get how it should sound) which can be different for each source, as well as settings to tailor the sound for different types of car, different sized speakers, different speaker placings and a setting that allows the sound stage to be moved. So even though the speakers are low down in the doors, it can make them sound as though they are at ear level. With all the different settings, you now know why I never disconnect the battery on my car! I've changed the original door speakers for JBL Stage 600 CE units (straight swap) and also have a Pioneer powered underseat sub on top of the BeCM under the drivers seats. Listening at an 'adequate' volume, it sounds extremely good but can't hold a candle to something like the Meridian system in a L322 or later, or the Bose systems in a high line Audi or Bentley.

Marty did a replacement for the DSP amp using 4 door amps from a previous generation P38 as they were matched to the level and impedance coming from the standard head unit. Unfortunately to fit it involves sitting in the boot soldering and heat shrinking something like 40 wires. I've got the dead DSP amp, a pair of 50W Class D stereo modules, and four 2 way crossovers with the intention of building them into the original DSP amp box to make a plug and play replacement. The only additional wiring needed would be the two rear speaker outputs from the head unit. These are still there as they were used on the earlier door amp equipped cars but with no wiring in the loom to the DSP amp. However, it is one of those things that I went through how it could be done theoretically and bought the bits but never actually put them together as I don't have a car with the DSP system to try it in.

and still is. You won't find a system in a car that doesn't have it these days.

Do you have the DSP option under the tone button? If you do, it will be the amp almost certainly. New they are horrendously expensive and used is always a gamble as to how much life they have left in them. The DSP chip is sealed to the circuit board with some sort of resin and the general consensus is that the resin has a different coefficient of expansion than the chip and board so the stress of multiple hot cold cycles over the years causes the chip pins to come away from the board. Unfortunately nobody has yet succeeded in getting the resin off without destroying the chip.

A 2001 may well have the dreaded DSP amp in the boot which are known for dying without warning. Often temperature related when they initially fail so it might just start to work when it gets warmer (or colder). Is this in all modes or just when streaming?

Yes it is, you have to put resistors in parallel with them to draw the extra current. Only downside is if the light stops working due to an iffy bulbholder, the current is still being drawn by the resistor so you don't get a bulb blown warning. Some of the LED bulbs sold as being Canbus compatible have the resistor built in so they will still work.

leolito wrote:

I will next week do my driver's side (with the lock) and make some photos of the innards.

Already been done https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless

Possible. At the handle end the rod is pointed but with a groove around it so it goes through the lever on the lock and is held in place with a clip that goes around the lever and has rolled edges that clip into the groove so it can't fall out. Before pulling the door apart again, you can undo the bolt holding the handle in place and pull it out of the door so you will be able to see if it is attached. Only problem here is that annoying block of steel that fits between the inner and outer doors skins stands a 50/50 chance of dropping out so you will have to get inside the door again.....

Except a passenger door handle from a LHD car won't have a lock in it......

The glue that Martrim supply, which they can't send outside the UK due to postal restrictions, is a contact adhesive so must be sprayed on both sides or it doesn't stick at all. With it on both surfaces once they touch that is it, it isn't coming off.

Richard, your missus is quite the lady. Removing the old glue is the worst part of the job.

It was quite amusing. After the removal crew had done their bit, the liners were put on a couple of trestles so she got stuck in with a wire brush to get the old stuff off which ended up all over the workshop floor. As she moved around it stuck to the bottom of the old trainers she'd worn especially as I'd warned her it could get a bit mucky. The more she walked around the more of it that stuck to her trainers until there was at least an inch layer on both. Then she walked out of the workshop over gravel and ended up a good 2 inches taller than normal.

If it breaks I've got a spare one.....

Yup. there's 4 little sliding spring things that will shoot out never to be seen again that stop it from rattling in the channels but when you put the new material on, if you fold it over the edge you don't need them (and you'll never get them back in anyway).

We had a summer camp about 3 years ago where we did 8 headlinings one after the other (2 guys taking the liner out, my missus cleaning the old foam off, 3 of us putting the new material on before bunging it back at the 2 guys with the screwdrivers) and didn't break any by bowing them. I've since done 2 more on other cars using the same method too.

Sunblind can be taken out without taking the sunroof out. You can either do it by the book and loosen the runners on one side or the less technical method of simply bowing it upwards in the middle so it pops out of the runners.