That's true, the diesel has a rubber donut on the output of the transfer box, could be that starting to break up.
No, clean up the sliders and give them some fresh grease and put it back together. If you can't get the seized slider out, then a new carrier but there's no reason to change the callipers at all.
That isn't crap, it's iron filings that have turned to rust. One of the pads is down to the metal. Either that is the first one to contact the disc and the others aren't far behind or one of the sliding pins has seized so one pad, usually the outer one, will have been constantly rubbing on the disc. Calliper carriers are cheap enough if you can't free it off.
Propshaft UJ?
What is the difference in revs at changes now? My old gearbox was always reluctant to drop down a gear when I'd have expected it to and when driving normally would change up at what I always thought was too low. The new one now changes up at slightly higher revs and will drop down a gear when you expect it to. My fuel consumption seems to have improved slightly too, maybe because the engine is staying in the power band more rather than slogging at too low revs.
They should have given you the printout from the emissions test as well as the certificate. If it was running on LPG when you took it in, it will have been tested on that and the printout will show fuel type and only readings for CO and HC. If they tested it on petrol it will show CO, HC and Lambda. Mine went in at the end of August and the only thing he could find was one number plate light bulb out (one that the dash doesn't tell you about if it is blown. I've done more miles in the 6 weeks since the test than you've done all year.....
Worth a check but I doubt it is a manifold blow. Manifold blow will be barely audible at idle, unless it is really bad, and louder when the engine is working harder, not the other way round. It, and the noise I have from mine, both sound more mechanical. In fact mine sounds loudest coming from the bellhousing but after the gearbox, including the torque converter and flex plate, were changed it's still there. About the only thing left that hasn't been changed or rebuilt, is the flywheel.
Worn out brake pad? If the calliper sliders are stuck, one pad will wear more than the others.
Do you have the gearbox dipstick/filler tube on the diesel or have you got to pump it in from underneath? Mine took 10.5 litres to bring it up to smack on the maximum mark on the dipstick.
I can't tell you what it is but mine sounds just the same. It was like it when I bought it, it was the same 80k miles later after the engine was rebuilt and it still sounds the same after the gearbox was replaced. I replaced the cam followers as it seemed to be more cam speed than engine speed and that made no difference. When I first took the car to V8Developments before the rebuild, they couldn't work out what it was either but assumed that it would go away after the rebuild but it didn't. It has always been there has never got any better or worse so I just live with it although it is much more noticeable at idle. The Ascot also does it but to a lesser degree.
Mine unscrewed from the rocker cover two or three years ago but on the GEMS it isn't as tall and is on the other side (LH rocker cover). Initially I cleaned up the end of the thread so I could get it started in the rocker cover without cross threading and found that a pair of pliers would fit against the two internal lugs so I could screw it down tight. Next time I took the oil filler cap off the whole thing unscrewed again. This time I degreased the threads on both parts with a squirt of brake cleaner, put Loctite 2700 on the thread and screwed it down again. It hasn't moved since.....
and if anyone that is interested wants to add Thor or diesel licences to it, there appears to be a loophole in buying a new licence. As BBS are based in an EU country but we aren't, it is charged less VAT as it is classed as being supplied outside the EU and payment of the VAT would happen when the goods arrive in the UK. Only thing is, there are no goods to send, the licence is uploaded to your personal account on the BBS website and confirmation of the order is sent by email.
At last, an advantage to Brexit, the only one I have found so far!
Agreed. My UT210E is primarily used to check current draw if anyone has a battery drain problem and, as it reads low current levels well, is ideal for that. No idea how accurate it is but if it shows 100mA draw with everything off, even if it is actually 120mA or 80mA, you still know there is a problem. I've also used the NCV feature to check for buried mains cables before drilling holes in walls too.
13.5V is fine and it is the gearbox ECU that gets offended with low voltage, so unless you are getting gearbox fault on the dash, it isn't low voltage. ABS ECU will disconnect once you go over a certain speed so that is normal, you need to reboot and start again to get it to reconnect. If at any time you have had an ABS fault come up on the dash, you will always get a Traction Failure when you switch off. It sounds like you have an intermittent fault rather than something always there like a duff sensor.
Yes, a small gap is normal. You need to worry when there is no gap as that means the torque converter isn't fully home onto the gearbox oil pump.
The only connection from the ABS system that goes through the footwell connector, is the feed to the OBD socket. The fact that you can connect to the ABS with diagnostics means that is OK. 99 and 2000 use the same Wabco D system so bits would be interchangeable.
If you can get the sensors out without breaking them, check the reluctor wheel to make sure none of them are gunked up with anything. If a couple of the grooves are full of muck, that will cause a lower than actual reading.
Yes, you've got a problem. They should all be identical, especially the wheel speeds.
Chasman wrote:
Just tried ordering, wouldn't arrived for a month. Cancelled.
That's odd, when I look at it, it shows Prime next day delivery is available.
You made me curious too, so in the interests of science, or what a work colleague of mine used to refer to as buffoonery, I've just been outside to check. Stuck my clamp meter on the highest range, 100A DC in my case with the UT210E, and put it on the starter cable. Jumpered the starter relay with the ignition off and as soon as the starter kicked in it read OL so more than 100A but once spinning the engine over, it displayed 92A DC. So it seems the initial surge to get it spinning is over 100A, but I suspect less than 200, and under 100 once it is turning. As my 1000A clamp meter is of hardly any use to me (I found it in my fathers garage when we were clearing it out after he passed away), it isn't at home so can't see what that would show.