Sunblind can be taken out without taking the sunroof out. You can either do it by the book and loosen the runners on one side or the less technical method of simply bowing it upwards in the middle so it pops out of the runners.

It can't tell if there is an output, but it can tell you what the feedback pot is showing. So if the motor doesn't move, the feedback won't change but the same would happen if the feedback pot has gone open circuit. Admittedly, when they go they usually fail in such a way that there is an output but it isn't stable.

The alternative to the Nanocom, and cheaper, is EASUnlock V4 (updated from V3) from RSW Solutions (https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3) that runs on a laptop. The only thing it can't do is connect to the SRS system but will do all the other ones. I've not had any problems with my Nanocom though, maybe your friend just got a Friday afternoon one?

dave3d wrote:

There is one on Ebay now for a diesel p38. Nanocom

sorry - just read you have got the 4.0L.

£50 or thereabouts to add the GEMS or Thor licence and, as we are in the UK and BBS are in Cyprus, there is no VAT charged as it would be charged when whatever you buy arrives in the UK. But there isn't anything sent to you, it is an unlock code that you get from the website so no VAT.

BeCM only supplies the HEVAC with power and tells it if the engine is running, the power to the blend motors comes from the HEVAC unit itself. So no power to the motor would be a HEVAC fault but as you have swapped the HEVAC, it is unlikely you have two dead ones with the exact same fault. Unless you have tried putting power on the Black and Brown wires with the blend motors still connected to the HEVAC rather than with it unplugged. If you do that it burns out the output chip that sends power to the motor. I know, I've done it and had to replace 3 of the L272M chips that drive them.....

Turn it anti-clockwise, it is a bayonet style fit.

Martrim supply 3 cans of glue and we only used just over 2 when we did mine. Subsequently found why they supply 3 as it has come away in a couple of places. They supply what you need.

Oh it will stick believe me. That why is it a two, or preferably three, person job. One person to smooth it down while the others hold it up because once they come into contact they are stuck.

No need to remove the old glue, just the horribly sticky bits of orange foam so the surface is smooth without lumps.

But if that is the case, you do still have a fault. I start mine, reverse off the driveway (so use the brakes then) and drive off down the road. If I don't leave it idling before I start moving, it comes up to pressure and the lights go out as I pass the bus shelter about 50m down the road. I do this every time I go anywhere and don't get any faults.

Not sure I follow the fault. Until the system is up to pressure, you'll get all 3 lights on (ABS, Brake warning and TC), once up to pressure Brake warning and TC will go out (as long as you have the handbrake off otherwise the brake warning light will stay on until you release it), ABS will stay on until you hit 5mph forwards (it doesn't seem to go out in reverse, or mine doesn't anyway) then it will go out. Are you saying that you get the faults if you use the brakes while reversing but before it is up to pressure but when driving normally, you don't?

Be careful with swapping to different headlamp bulbs. The regulations used to be that you could have HID or LED bulbs if the headlamps had a levelling device (which we have) and headlamp wipers (which most of us have) but that has now been changed. The wording in the testers manual says:
Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible.

I use Osram Nightbreakers in mine as they are noticeably better than standard halogen but still legit. My boot light kept falling out of its hole in the tailgate so I got a rectangular LED panel that was around the same size and fitted that. Then discovered that as I keep my toolbox on the LH side of the boot (where the CD player and sub would live if I had them) I was in my own shadow if I wanted to get something out of the toolbox. So I fitted another on the other side.....

Usually the hardest part of changing a head gasket is getting the heat shield off the exhaust manifold, but, as the garage has already done it that's one stumbling block you won't have to deal with. HG isn't a difficult job, except for the aforementioned exhaust manifold heatshield, as long as you have the right tools. For the head bolts I use a 16mm spark plug socket as it is 6 point and 1/2" drive so you can give it plenty of grunt.

As for doing just one or both. While you are at it, you may as well do both, it'll take longer and you'll have to deal with the heatshield and the bastard to get at rear exhaust manifold bolt on the driver's side (taking the wheelarch liner out and going in from there makes that easier, might make the heatshield easier too, at least you'll be able to see what you are doing). You'll be surprised at how quickly it will come apart. Follow the steps in RAVE and the head should be off in 3-4 hours, less for the second one as the inlet and stuff at the top will already be off. Cleaning up faces while waiting for the head(s) to be skimmed are likely to take longer if you do it properly.

You may be able to wake the motor up with a squirt of contact cleaner through the holes so it gets on the brushes, spin it a few times then hit it with 9V and run it both ways.

Yes, pics do have to be hosted elsewhere (such as imgur) and linked to. There's a sticky at the top of the forum with instructions how to do it.

Not only that but LEDs normally only need 3V but they are being supplied with 12V. Purpose made replacements will likely have current limiting resistors in series with them but just plain LEDs won't have. If you do manage to get them to work, they should still dim though as the panel light dimmer doesn't reduce the voltage as in old school motors but sends a PWM voltage to them.

It's a mod that I won't be doing as every one I have seen has nice bright panel lights which look really impressive but when I'm driving through the night on the continent, I dim mine right down. A Saab 900 I used to have had a very nice button to put the dash in Night Mode where it dimmed the speedo illumination right down and switched all the other dash lights off.

I think you'll find those LEDs from ABD are too big. They will fit the HEVAC but not in the switches, they really are tiny.

That set is only for the dash, not the switches. The three bulbs that illuminate the message centre have green covers over them, the others don't. The ones in the switches are tiny little things and completely different to the instrument panel bulbs. See the pic here https://www.lrdirect.com/stc1877-bulb-and-holder-switches-orange and https://www.lrdirect.com/stc1878-bulb-and-holder-switches-green?sfi=STC187_

You don't need a full dash out, just the centre console surround. Side panels off, screws either side of the radio (if you have the original radio, they are behind the fascia surround which just pulls off), drop the knee panel and remove the instrument cluster surround. That will show you the two screws on the right and one on the left and allow you to pull the whole surround forward. Switches can be unplugged and the switches pushed out from behind.

Tell tale for the rear fog light is Orange whereas the one for the front fogs and the backlighting is Green. Bulb part numbers are STC1877 for Orange, STC1878 for Green. For some unknown reason the green ones are 5 times the price of the orange one. LRDiect have both in stock. Can't help with LED equivalents though, for the time being it might be worth just putting a replacement bulb in the switch to get you through the test and do the LED conversion when it is a bit warmer.....

No need to disconnect the battery, just make sure you don't turn the ignition on while things are disconnected.

This, https://web.archive.org/web/20180509124955/http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html is how to get to them.

No other wires will need to be connected. If you look at the diagram below, you'll see that only the brown and black wires are connected to the motors, the other 3 are for the feedback pot.

On the diagram
B=Brown
N=Black
W=White
RB=Red/Black
S=Grey

Dash out is not a fun way of spending a couple of days, it isn't difficult just very laborious. With a right angle screwdriver it is possible to get the blend motors out without cutting the duct (although you will need to if you are doing the heater core O rings). Don't try to drive the motors from the HEVAC with them not connected as that will also bring up a fault as they will travel further than normal.

Book symbol will go out if no faults are found. If the problem is the blend motors you can sometimes reset it by unplugging the blend motor plug, turning the ignition on for 10 seconds, then off again. Then plug back in and try ignition on again. It will go out but if the fault is still there will come back on after a few seconds when it tries to check them, or immediately if there is another fault detected. Odd that you can't hear them with the battery though.

If you take the instrument cluster out (4 screws, one at each corner), you can see the blend motors. Do NOT turn the ignition on with the cluster unplugged (that will give you an SRS fault) but it can be moved to one side so you can see the blend motors moving when you tell them to.