You'd need to rig up something to stop it blowing the ends off but it will have to be pretty strong and hold it securely. To properly test you'd need to inflate to around 75-80psi as that is what it needs to support over a half tonne (1/4 of the weight of the car).

I will, before, during and after.

Thanks

One or two of you have met my daughter Steph and I suspect, as most of us seem to be getting on a bit, we all know of someone that has suffered a stroke. My daughters mother-in-law, Hazel, was retired but drove to a stable every day to look after and ride her horse. A couple of days before Christmas, she left the stable to go home and had a stroke while driving along a narrow fenland road. The car went off the road, took out two telegraph poles came to a stop in a ditch and she had to be cut out of her Toyota Yaris by the fire brigade.

Steph wanted to do something and, having inherited her father's sense of adventure and lunacy she's doing a freefall parachute jump to raise funds for the Stroke Association. This isn't one of these tandem jumps where someone is attached to an experienced sky diver, she'll be taken up to 13,000 feet, shoved out of the plane but will have a pair of instructors with her, but not attached, just in case she forgets to pull the ripcord when the time comes. So, if anyone feels inclined to bung in a quid or two, how to do it is here https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/jump-for-hazel.

Thanks, I'll be there with still and video cameras to prove she actually did it......

It shouldn't make a difference using an auto ranging meter. They can get confused at times, although I wouldn't expect a Fluke to, but better than the one I use for car stuff which has manual range settings. If I set it on 200 Ohms range and try to measure something that is greater than that, it just shows a 1. But it shows a 1 if it is open circuit too.....

I'm wondering if you could disconnect the Red/Black from the ECU and simply connect it to ground and see if that works?

I was hoping this thread might give me a clue to a problem that I was shown this evening by a guy at the other half's gym. She'd suggested he spoke to me so he did. This is on a 2001 Vogue and he has an ABS problem (Wabco D system) in as much as it always operates. Apparently it started after his mechanic had changed an ABS ring (no idea why it needed changing) and has done it ever since. His mechanic has changed sensors, bled the brakes multiple times and even changed the ECU. Whenever he applies the brakes you can hear the ABS operating and feel it though the brake pedal, unless he presses harder when it as if he goes through some sort of resistance and the brakes work normally, just slamming on far too hard (as you would expect when stomping on the pedal). I put the Nano on it and no faults shown, voltage from the sensors all the same and all showing 1.7kph when standing still but increasing at what appeared to be the same rate, none were staying low or lagging behind the others anyway. No ABS Failure warning on the dash or 3 amigos to suggest anything is wrong.

It's going back to the mechanic again next week but if he can't find the problem, and as he has failed so far I can't see this time being any different, it'll be coming to me. Just wondering if anyone has any clues.

That's a bit of a bugger. Power to it comes from Fuse 15 but that supplies a load of other things including the tailgate lock actuator and the interior lights so you would probably know if that was blown (you would also get a message on the dash telling you it was blown). However, it does have a splice in the wiring where it splits to the different things so you could have a failed splice. This is from the ETM for a 97 model but it should, hopefully, be the same as yours.

No, the small black one was still attached, it was the large black one that I had to unplug as the wiring for that goes over the top of the red, centre, one and, like I say, I am not sure it was pushed fully home when I did the checks.

I did consider checking resistance to ground on the Red/Black wire while it wasn't connected to the ECU but thought that without unplugging all the other sensors, all I would be seeing would be the combined parallel resistances of the other sensors. All you would be seeing would be the static resistances of the cam sensor, MAF, IAT sensor, TPS, coolant temperature sensor and fuel temperature sensor. Now some of those may well have a 5V reference on the opposite side (TPS definitely does as it shows around 0.6V at closed throttle and near 5V at fully open) so if one has gone short circuit, that would show you 5V on the Red/Black. It might be worth checking and unplugging each sensor at a time to see if the 5V disappears.

So the results are in. With the red connector unplugged and ignition off, I get 0.00V at pin 36 wrt battery negative and a varying resistance that stabilised at around 16 Ohms which would suggest a cap on it. With ignition on I get no Check Engine light showing the ECU is not powered, I still get 0.00V but this time the varying resistance stabilised at around 1.7 kOhms.

However, when I put it back together I'm not sure the black connector C505, which I'd had to remove to get the red one out, was fully home so that may be a bit of a red herring. By then my fingers had lost all feeling due to the 2 degree temperature outside so I didn't feel inclined to take it apart again......

Send it to Jon.......
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265688990980

I'm busy tomorrow afternoon but will have some spare time in the morning so I'll do some more checks for you and post them up.

To get that much condensation, your car must be very damp inside. Is it wet in the footwells? I would suspect rain is getting in through the bulkhead, roof joins or similar and when it sits outside in the sun it vaporises before condensing on the cold roof. Any damp patches on the headlining anywhere which would suggest a leak around the screen? Do the windows steam up when it is parked in the sun?

According to the book, you are supposed to remove the front bumper to get to them but you can undo the bolts that hold the washer bottle in place, pull it back a bit so you can get to the pumps.

Pumps are all the same, the rear was one is the one nearest the outside of the car with a black plug.

The weather has changed so if it is, as suspected, temperature related that would make sense.

It's the same type of pump as the other two so don't usually fail. The main problem with the rear washer is the non-return valve under the LH rear parcel shelf bit fails and goes non-return in both directions. I replaced mine a couple of years ago and now have the opposite problem in as much as it isn't non-return so the water drains back when it isn't being used. So I have to hold the button in for about 4 wipes before any water comes out.

No problem with using it, just use ear defenders if the rattle gets too much.....

One of the members on here buys unloved P38s and depending on the condition, either refurbs them and sells them on or breaks them for spares (using some parts on the ones that need refurbing). One thing he always looks for on a breaker is whether it still has the original cats on it as he can weigh them in for £300 each. Cats don't normally clog up on a car that is running properly, it's only one that is running badly that will clog them.

With the MAF disconnected it will start and idle but won't rev unless you constantly pump the throttle and you can get the revs up eventually as you have found. The GEMS SID simply says that pin 36 on C507 is sensor common but not what voltage it should have on it and as well as the MAF it is also common to the fuel temperature sensor, intake air temperature sensor, cam position sensor and throttle position sensor.

I had always assumed there would be a 5V reference voltage somewhere so, in the interests of curiosity, I've just checked mine. As I run a single point LPG system, I have a stand-alone fuel system that doesn't need a MAF (or most of the other sensors for that matter). Started her up on LPG, disconnected the plug to the MAF and checked the voltage on the Red/Black wire. Result was 0.04V with respect to battery negative so ground to all intents and purposes. After switching off and reconnecting everything I thought that maybe I should have checked with the ignition on but engine not running but I can try that if you think it might be a benefit. It might be worth checking the voltage on the other sensors to see if there is damage to the loom? When you changed the engine did the replacement come with the loom on it so it was just a case of plugging it in or did you swap the loom over? Did you remember to connect the main engine ground down underneath the alternator?

The guts of the cat are ceramic so if they start to break up the bits get blown out so would normally end up inside the middle silencer box. As you don't have one, they are probably just laying in the delete pipe. OE cats are ridiculously expensive but aftermarket, which are much smaller but still work well enough to go through the emissions test at MoT time, are quite reasonable. You need to get the correct one as the boss for the lambda sensors is a different size between GEMS and Thor, so up to 98, you want ESR4095 but 99 onwards you want WCD105350. Only difficulty is getting the crossmember out to fit them.

There's also two different versions of the Gen2 if you look at the internals but the performance is very similar in as much as they pass whatever is received through to the BeCM whether it is a legitimate code or not.