Marty is out of the country as far as I know, so they won't be in stock until he is back. No idea when that will be though.

He's been a member since 2019 but has only made 3 posts at that time until this one now. However, 3 years is a long time for a spammer to wait before starting to post rubbish and it you look, although the post is a direct copy and paste of yours, he's embedded links into it (or at least he had until I edited it and took them out). That is a common spammers way of doing it so I suspect his account has been hacked and it wasn't him that posted.

Earlier Wabco C ones give an ABS Fault on the dash, followed by Traction Failure when moving, after which the message goes out but the ABS and TC warning lights stay on. Traction Failure then comes up for a few seconds when you turn the ignition off.

I've seen that on a Wabco D too, 1.7kph when standing still whereas the earlier C will show 0.0kph. No idea why it always thinks you are moving though.

As the thermocouple gets dirty then it misreads the temperature too so the heater will try to maintain the wrong temperature. It isn't difficult to take out, it's held in with two small crosshead screws but it does mean the whole panel has to be taken out. Using a vacuum cleaner through the grille doesn't work so it needs taking out and cleaning with a small paintbrush. If it is making a noise then stopping, that probably means it is moving initially then stopping.

Not worth worrying about. My Ascot, being an early car has the really long cables on the rear. When I needed one, I got A front one which was nowhere near long enough, so I just cut the cable off the old and used that to extend it. Soldered joints, glue lined heatshrink and wrapped it all in self amalgamating tape to fully seal the join.

With ABS sensors I prefer to get second hand original Wabco over brand new pattern ones.

950k Ohms ish? As in just under 1 MegOhm? I don't have one to hand to check and it's cold, wet and dark outside so I'm not going out to confirm, but from memory something in the region of 1.2kOhm is what I'd expect to see.

I've seen a problem with a Wabco D system where checking the wheels speeds all were showing the same speed but one was sluggish to start registering. The message, as you rightly say, will be it failing the initial self test.

Unless it's an early car when the rears are much longer as they run along the axle. There's multiple different lengths and the grommets are at different points along the cable length depending on where it was intended to go. All interchangeable though, you just might have a bit of spare cable to lose.

No intermediate connections, the wires from the plugs go directly to the ECU.

I might actually have one. I had to replace the whole cassette on the Ascot (my spare P38) and kept the glass. I gave it to a friend who was restoring a Classic LSE but we found that the Classic glass is flatter so it was no good for him. This was a couple of years ago and he was able to get a new seal then but I'm pretty sure he still has the P38 glass in his workshop. I'll give him a call and ask. No idea how it could be got to Italy in one piece though.....

There's a seal around the cassette that bears against the underside of the roof and that one will let water in if it isn't a good seal but the seal that everyone is talking about is the one around the edge of the actual glass. That just fills the gap between the glass and the edges of the hole in the roof. There's no lip or anything like that as the glass has to be able to slide downwards when it is being slid open and upwards when it tilts.

Oops, maybe I cleaned them out. I bought a pair a couple of months ago from JLR. Still haven't got round to fitting them yet......

Pierre3 wrote:

I have a feeling that the lack of supply of the sunroof seal will be the straw that breaks the camels back as without an effective seal the car will be evermore wet inside.

No it won't, the seal is there to stop wind noise, not water. As long as the seal between the cassette and underside of the roof is good and the drain tubes are connected and clear, there won't be any water getting into the car.

A further option would be to look at other cars with a similar sunroof (BMW would be a good place to start at they owned Land Rover at the time the P38 was built and there are a lot of small items that are BMW parts) and see if a seal is available for them. It is only a rubber channel with a felt covering that is glued to the edge of the glass after all.

Island list it as a non-stock item and to allow 1-2 days extra. That usually means they have a source but don't consider there to be enough demand to keep it in stock. You could try ordering from them and they will tell you if they can't get it.

Why do you think you need it? If you have a leak the seal isn't meant to stop the water getting in, it is there mostly to stop wind noise when it is closed. If water is getting in, it will be the drain tubes being blocked or disconnected. Water gets in and runs along a channel before running out of the drain tubes. If it can't drain through those it drips into the car.

Bigas is made by AEB, one of the best known and most widely supported systems so you'd have no problems with it even if it needs any work. Parts are cheap too if anything needs replacing to get it spot on.

When I had a right rear sensor problem, the Nano reported the correct one. Although I did check the resistance to confirm it wasn't telling fibs.....

In the door handle. See the sticky thread directly above your post https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless

I travel a lot but don't really have that much experience of main dealers other than my own local one, I buy any bits I need when I am at home so I don't have to buy them when I am away from home. With friends in France who are also into cars, I know that it can be difficult. I very often get sent a shopping list of parts to pick up to take with me when I am going over. Brexit has made things far worse as we are no longer in the single market so there should be duty to be paid at the point when parts enter the EU from outside. To the point where I was asked by French Customs about a boot full of parts when I took some over. Fortunately my friend had a P38 at the time so I told them that as I was driving a 24 year old car I didn't know what I might need when I was away so had taken some spares with me just in case I needed them! Buying any car parts in France is difficult as, other than the odd enthusiast, the French don't tend to repair anything themselves so they are not geared up to it. You only have to look in Norauto, the French equivalent to Halfords to see just how few useful parts you can easily buy over the counter. You can buy oil or a set of brake pads but anything beyond that is a complete mystery to them.

The indifference and complete rudeness seems to be a French trait, particularly if you speak to them in English. Try speaking to them in extremely poor French and they seem to take pity on you and are far more helpful. The other problem is that nothing is urgent, everything can wait until tomorrow. The only problem with that is by the time tomorrow gets here it is today so it can wait until tomorrow......

I would suspect the passenger one. I was thinking I could check mine with the passenger door unlocked and drivers door locked and seeing if the sill buttons would work, only to realise that with the central locking you can't have one locked and another unlocked if it is working as it should. You've got the Nano so you can confirm if the switches in the latches are working with that. Ignition Off, BeCM - Diagnostics - Inputs - Door Locking. From there you can look at the logic status of each switch which will be shown as either 12V or GRND. So if you operate it, you should see it change from one to the other.