That's a bit of a bugger. Power to it comes from Fuse 15 but that supplies a load of other things including the tailgate lock actuator and the interior lights so you would probably know if that was blown (you would also get a message on the dash telling you it was blown). However, it does have a splice in the wiring where it splits to the different things so you could have a failed splice. This is from the ETM for a 97 model but it should, hopefully, be the same as yours.

No, the small black one was still attached, it was the large black one that I had to unplug as the wiring for that goes over the top of the red, centre, one and, like I say, I am not sure it was pushed fully home when I did the checks.

I did consider checking resistance to ground on the Red/Black wire while it wasn't connected to the ECU but thought that without unplugging all the other sensors, all I would be seeing would be the combined parallel resistances of the other sensors. All you would be seeing would be the static resistances of the cam sensor, MAF, IAT sensor, TPS, coolant temperature sensor and fuel temperature sensor. Now some of those may well have a 5V reference on the opposite side (TPS definitely does as it shows around 0.6V at closed throttle and near 5V at fully open) so if one has gone short circuit, that would show you 5V on the Red/Black. It might be worth checking and unplugging each sensor at a time to see if the 5V disappears.

So the results are in. With the red connector unplugged and ignition off, I get 0.00V at pin 36 wrt battery negative and a varying resistance that stabilised at around 16 Ohms which would suggest a cap on it. With ignition on I get no Check Engine light showing the ECU is not powered, I still get 0.00V but this time the varying resistance stabilised at around 1.7 kOhms.

However, when I put it back together I'm not sure the black connector C505, which I'd had to remove to get the red one out, was fully home so that may be a bit of a red herring. By then my fingers had lost all feeling due to the 2 degree temperature outside so I didn't feel inclined to take it apart again......

Send it to Jon.......
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265688990980

I'm busy tomorrow afternoon but will have some spare time in the morning so I'll do some more checks for you and post them up.

To get that much condensation, your car must be very damp inside. Is it wet in the footwells? I would suspect rain is getting in through the bulkhead, roof joins or similar and when it sits outside in the sun it vaporises before condensing on the cold roof. Any damp patches on the headlining anywhere which would suggest a leak around the screen? Do the windows steam up when it is parked in the sun?

According to the book, you are supposed to remove the front bumper to get to them but you can undo the bolts that hold the washer bottle in place, pull it back a bit so you can get to the pumps.

Pumps are all the same, the rear was one is the one nearest the outside of the car with a black plug.

The weather has changed so if it is, as suspected, temperature related that would make sense.

It's the same type of pump as the other two so don't usually fail. The main problem with the rear washer is the non-return valve under the LH rear parcel shelf bit fails and goes non-return in both directions. I replaced mine a couple of years ago and now have the opposite problem in as much as it isn't non-return so the water drains back when it isn't being used. So I have to hold the button in for about 4 wipes before any water comes out.

No problem with using it, just use ear defenders if the rattle gets too much.....

One of the members on here buys unloved P38s and depending on the condition, either refurbs them and sells them on or breaks them for spares (using some parts on the ones that need refurbing). One thing he always looks for on a breaker is whether it still has the original cats on it as he can weigh them in for £300 each. Cats don't normally clog up on a car that is running properly, it's only one that is running badly that will clog them.

With the MAF disconnected it will start and idle but won't rev unless you constantly pump the throttle and you can get the revs up eventually as you have found. The GEMS SID simply says that pin 36 on C507 is sensor common but not what voltage it should have on it and as well as the MAF it is also common to the fuel temperature sensor, intake air temperature sensor, cam position sensor and throttle position sensor.

I had always assumed there would be a 5V reference voltage somewhere so, in the interests of curiosity, I've just checked mine. As I run a single point LPG system, I have a stand-alone fuel system that doesn't need a MAF (or most of the other sensors for that matter). Started her up on LPG, disconnected the plug to the MAF and checked the voltage on the Red/Black wire. Result was 0.04V with respect to battery negative so ground to all intents and purposes. After switching off and reconnecting everything I thought that maybe I should have checked with the ignition on but engine not running but I can try that if you think it might be a benefit. It might be worth checking the voltage on the other sensors to see if there is damage to the loom? When you changed the engine did the replacement come with the loom on it so it was just a case of plugging it in or did you swap the loom over? Did you remember to connect the main engine ground down underneath the alternator?

The guts of the cat are ceramic so if they start to break up the bits get blown out so would normally end up inside the middle silencer box. As you don't have one, they are probably just laying in the delete pipe. OE cats are ridiculously expensive but aftermarket, which are much smaller but still work well enough to go through the emissions test at MoT time, are quite reasonable. You need to get the correct one as the boss for the lambda sensors is a different size between GEMS and Thor, so up to 98, you want ESR4095 but 99 onwards you want WCD105350. Only difficulty is getting the crossmember out to fit them.

There's also two different versions of the Gen2 if you look at the internals but the performance is very similar in as much as they pass whatever is received through to the BeCM whether it is a legitimate code or not.

Most likely is a rattle from the innards of one of the cats. If it is, you have two options, replace it, or the cheap option, clamp a lump of steel against the side of it so it squeezes it in and holds the internals in one place.

As for the video, it will depend on what settings you used when shooting it. If you've shot it in full 1080p HD, you'll get a big file so will take a long time to upload. If you change the settings to 720p the files will be much smaller. Or just upload to Youtube and link to it there.

It isn't a replacement receiver, it's a filter that plugs into your existing receiver and updates the earlier ones to Gen3 performance. Gen1 was barn door wide so would respond to any transmission between 420 and 440MHz so would keep waking up the BeCM and causing your battery to go flat. Gen2 is a lot better but would still respond to a signal on 433MHz and wake the BeCM but not unlock the car. Gen3 checks for a valid code before waking the BeCM so preventing battery drain problems, the filter does the same, blocking anything that isn't a valid P38 lock or unlock code.

I've had a look at a Gen3 that wasn't working and, as a test to confirm it was the receiver, I pulled the one out of my car to try that and it worked perfectly so the owner just got a used Gen2 to fit instead. The Gen3 looked fine and I ended up sending it to Marty so he could have a play with it and it was him that said he'd found a few others that had failed with no immediate signs of anything burnt.

So the bottom line is, you still need a working receiver. I've got a Gen2 (blue spot) with one of Marty's filters (a prototype one he let me have to try and see if I could break it) on mine while he Ascot has a Gen2 without a filter. On that one the BeCM will be woken up every time either my car or the other half's SLK are locked or unlocked as it will respond to the signals from their fobs but it still takes about 4-5 weeks for the battery to go flat.

Probably because I am using Google.co.uk so find local hits rather that you being forced to use a local search. I have the same problem when I am out of the UK finding stuff as Google always tries to give me local results.

I suspect Eurospares do much the same as Britpart and buy them in from other suppliers, maybe even OE. Given the choice of multiple suppliers I tend to go for the mid range ones, not genuine (as you seem to pay a 200% premium for LR packaging), not the cheapies as they are likely to be Chinese make knock offs so by going for the middle you are likely to get something decent. I've bought some Eurospares stuff and not had a problem but not height sensors I will admit.

For the fronts, Island 4x4 have either Eurospares https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-height-sensor-9702-anr4686g-p-336.html or Dunlop https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-height-sensor-9702-dunlop-anr4686-p-42133.html, both shown as in stock. They also have Eurospares rears, https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-height-sensor-9702-eurospares-anr4687-anr4687es-p-42183.html but no Dunlop or OE while Craddocks are showing low stock https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/anr4687-genuine-p38-rear-suspension-height-sensor-from-va345920.html.

You mean you broke down on my doorstep? I'm in Stilton, just off J16 of the A1(M), one junction down from the services. To properly check UJs you need to disconnect them or at least have a wheel on each axle off the ground. Rear radius arm bushes are dead easy to change, the front ones involve a big press and lots of swearing at them. CV joints make the usual CV joint clunk, clunk, clunk on full lock, but stay quiet when straight ahead so it doesn't sound like a CV joint.

Is it a continuous clunk or just as you change from accelerating to decelerating? If it is just with a change of load, it could be a propshaft UJ on its way out.