From what I've seen the idea behind it being a renewable energy source is that by producing it by hydrolysing water using electricity from renewable sources, you've got a zero carbon fuel.

davew wrote:

although as a general point I am sure with the GEMS you will know that the related MIL Codes (especially with off/on marginal values) do often take a while to show up

But it isn't a GEMS, it's an L322 Supercharged.....

It probably just needs syncing to the car. If the battery has been flat or disconnected it will lose sync so is normal. If it is locked with the key, it can be unlocked with the key so the immobiliser will still be on but being turned off when you unlock. It has probably had a cheapo replacement case fitted and not glued together properly but if the LED flashes, that is a good sign and suggests it is working.

To sync make sure all doors, bonnet and tailgate are closed, put the key in the door lock. Turn to lock and hold there, while holding the key turned press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED starts to flash faster (about 3 seconds). Release the fob button then turn the key back to centre. Then turn to unlock, hold, press and hold the unlock key on the fob until it flashes faster then release. Turn the key back to centre and try pressing a fob button, that should have synced it so it will now work.

Assuming it does and you are in the UK, take your V5 and some form of ID into a LR main dealer and ask them to provide you with the EKA code. They should give you a printout with things like radio code, EKA, lockset bar code, build date, etc. free of charge. Go to your local Timsons and ask them to cut you a key blade (you'll need to tell them it is a BMW blank) so you'll have a spare that you can use while you send your fob to Jon here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265688990980 to be refurbished. Even if the sync doesn't work, you'll still be able to use your cut blade while Jon works his magic on your existing fob.

My other half works for Cummins, who supply diesel engines to numerous truck manufacturers, and they have produced and are testing an H2 fuelled IC engine for trucks. Spotted quite a few H2 filling stations in Germany earlier in the year, nearly every station on the Autobahns had LPG and CNG as well as the liquid stuff too.

As I see it the problem is that technology moves faster than Governments. They make an announcement that we should all go zero carbon at a time when EV was the only option. Now we have H2 fuel cells instead of batteries, H2 ICEs that work, synthetic fuels and there's no doubt other options coming along. At least the Germans have realised and won't be phasing out ICE powered vehicles from 2035.

You don't need both, just one or the other. 7 pin was standard for years but some caravans needed extras, like an ignition switched live and reversing lights so they went over to twin sockets. The 13 pin ones came much later as they include everything. If towing just a standard trailer all you need is 7 pin. That gives L and R sidelights, L and R indicators, brake lights, rear fogs and ground.

Unfortunately RAVE doesn't cover the Sport so can't look in there. P38 has spare sockets ready to plug a trailer socket loom into, I would assume the Sport does as well. You'll be looking for unconnected sockets lurking behind the rear lights.

A quick check of the parts catalogue suggests you need YMZ500522 which is an expensive way of buying a 7 pin socket with wires and plugs to go into sockets that are already there (somewhere).....

Looks decent enough so I would expect (hope, for your sake) it to go up quite a bit although no doubt someone will point out that a 98 car shouldn't have 2000 light units. That isn't a site I've seen before but I must admit the number of P38s, good and bad, that have been on carandclassic just recently have got a bit too much.

You'll get the Gearbox Fault message if the battery is getting tired and the voltage drops when cranking. If the battery is dying while driving, things will shut down in order of priority, so things like the AC and radio will stop working first. I had a bad connection between the alternator and battery so although the alternator was still working (so no warning messages) the power wasn't getting to the battery. It was some years ago (and Rob's suggestion reminded me of it) but first the EAS didn't rise, then radio went off, then HEVAC then ABS, then gearbox fault before there was finally not enough juice left to run the engine and it stopped. By then I was about 100 yards from home and managed to coast the rest of the way.....

Yes, lambda sensors and O2 sensors are the same thing. They look at the amount of Oxygen in the exhaust gases and from that can show if a bank is running rich or lean. With standard Zirconia sensors that you have, they give an output between 0v and 1V, 0V showing lean and 1V showing rich. However, they don't just sit in one place they will flip flop between the two extremes about once a second when everything is correct. If they are always hanging one way or the other, the engine ECU adjusts the injector timings slightly to correct the error, this is the short term fuel trims (sometimes shown on a scanner as STFT). This will normally be shown as a percentage moving between +5 and -5%. If the short term are always having to adjust one way or the other, the long term trims are adjusted slightly to bring teh short term trims back to either side of zero.

Pics have to be uploaded to a server somewhere and linked to from there. Most of us use Imgur.com, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur.

You're right, bank 1 is RH as seen from the drivers seat (see https://www.roverparts.com/resources/videos/rover-engine-firing-order/ from 3:10). Lambda sensors will be shown by your scanner as B1S1 (bank 1 sensor 1) for the pre-cat and B1S2 (bank 1 sensor 2) for the post-cat. The same will go for bank 2 with B2S1 and B2S2. Post cat sensors are there to confirm the cats are working and shouldn't really change, they will just sit at around 0.5V all the time (as long as the cats are doing something). While looking for the bank numbering, I also found a few threads on various forums where people have the same P0171 code as you have which was traced to a leaking PCV hose. Not sure if this was on the supercharged or normally aspirated engine though.

Yes, that's where I connected mine and I've also used the ignition switched supply on the connector to install a couple of fag lighter sockets for plugging things in the boot in.

Cross bolted engines first appeared in the 4.2 version fitted to the long wheelbase Classic as a result of some research into producing a diesel version of the engine as it made the bottom end stronger. Other than that there is virtually no difference between the RRC and P38 blocks.

Not memorized, I just keep it open so I can quickly look stuff up. Ignition switched power to the HEVAC comes from a connector on the back of the BeCM that can be accessed by lifting the carpet in the RH rear passenger footwell (it's the only connector on the back so not difficult to find). That connector can overheat and lose power. On a pre-99 car that same feed also goes to the radio and the brake light switch and I was wondering if a loss of power to the brake light switch would cause an ABS error but it appears that on a 2000 they don't use the same feed (so that is that theory out of the window....). But, there is a feed from the ABS system to the HEVAC (no idea why) so it is possible that an ABS fault could shut down the HEVAC.

Behind the LH rear light there is a 4 way connector that would be used if you had twin towing sockets or are fitting one of the modern 13 way trailer sockets. That connector has permanent live, ignition switched live, reversing light feed and ground. The reversing light feed is the Green wire and ground is Black.

A bolt that goes into the main bearing cap from the side of the block. If you look at a P38 engine you will see them just above the bottom of the block where it meets the sump. It is easily possible to use a P38 block with the front cover and distributor for an RRC engine, numerous people have built an engine with a 4.6 P38 block to use them in an RRC by doing this.

By convention, bank 1 is normally the LH bank as seen from the driver's seat, so if you mean RH as looking at it from the front, you are correct. If you use your diagnostics to look at the live data from the O2 (lambda) sensors, the only ones you are interested in are the pre-cat ones. With the engine running normally they should flip flop between 0V and 1V. If they hang at either end, then either something is causing them to hang or the sensor is dead. Compare the readings you get from the bank 2 pre-cat sensors and see if there is a difference. If it is something else causing the problem, the ECU will adjust the short term fuel trims to compensate.

I would suspect your engine uses platinum spark plugs which normally have a change interval of something like 40-50,000 miles but if you don't know how long they have been in there, it's worth changing them anyway.

It is primarily inhabited by P38 owners but we do have a few with later models. The difference between this forum and a lot of the others is that most of us have been working on cars for years so the cause of a specific fault with one model of car is going to be much the same with something else.

Does it have the cross bolts on the mains? That is the main difference between the RRC and P38 engines even though they are both 3.9 litre (3950cc for both the RRC 3.9 and 4.0 litre P38).

I don't but as plod didn't specify cruise when they ordered my car, I haven't got it. However, on other cars I've found that it actually makes the economy worse as it will try to maintain the speed when going up an incline rather than keeping the throttle opening the same and allowing the speed to drop a little.

As he is fitting a later cluster to an early car, the engine type will be correct in the BeCM. Changing it from GEMS to Thor may correct the temperature gauge but there's no telling what other things would be changed. I think the main differences are going to be in the cluster pcb, in much the same way that the tacho will read differently if a diesel cluster is fitted to a petrol car or vice versa. The petrol ECU sends 4 pulses per rev while the diesel sends 3 and the correct reading is calculated by the instrument cluster itself.

You'll need to add an extra ground too. The early GEMS had a single wire to the gauge sender with the ground through the body (later GEMS have a different sender with two pins so has a ground wire to it), the Thor one has a 4 pin connection, two signal and two ground wires.