Sounds like it could be an iffy height sensor then. Sometimes it works, other times it sits on a dead spot on the track and gives an out of range reading. As you say though, it isn't the sort of weather to be outside checking stuff for the sake of it.
I just saw dimensions on that Amazon listing and didn't look at what they were, sorry. I'll be honest and say that I wasn't even aware there were O rings on the fuel filter. I have a fuel filter that I bought to fit on my car many years ago and have never bothered. There may even be O rings in the box with it but I doubt it. Mine runs on petrol so rarely and I've seen so many people saying how difficult it is to undo the unions it isn't something I have felt like doing only to end up with a 30 minute job becoming an all day job. The pipes are 8mm outside diameter so the O rings are going to be around that sort of size.
Not necessarily spurious but they could be historic. Unless they have been cleared in the past after an event, they will stay logged. When checking the heights, watch the readings as the car is moving from one height to another, they should move smoothly with no sudden jumps.
Good point. I noticed yesterday that the Ascot has dropped almost down to Access height after being left for a couple of weeks, when it would normally stay at Standard height for at least 6 weeks. It is down to -2 C at the moment though......
Height sensor faults may be historic as normally an out of range height sensor error will bring up the EAS Fault message on the dash. It sounds like you are losing pressure from the reservoir so it takes a while to fill that before it rises. Check the readings from the height sensors at each height and see if they look right.
Lilac hose is the one to the reservoir, so the compressor will have been running permanently trying to fill it before it will rise.
On the one I fitted it was pressed in but wasn't a tight fit so could be rotated by hand. It was a Britpart though.....
It looks to me like the posts have been made and then subsequently edited silently to add the hidden links. Whether by him or by somebody else using his log in there doesn't appear to be any way of telling. I would be able to do it on RR.net but I have admin status on there so maybe it could be done on here but beyond my pay grade (if there was a pay grade....).
I changed a front hub on a friends car but it was about 4 years ago now. If I remember right, the 'tube' with the hole in it for the sensor could be rotated to make sure it lined up properly. So not a problem with the hub but an installation error......
Marty is out of the country as far as I know, so they won't be in stock until he is back. No idea when that will be though.
He's been a member since 2019 but has only made 3 posts at that time until this one now. However, 3 years is a long time for a spammer to wait before starting to post rubbish and it you look, although the post is a direct copy and paste of yours, he's embedded links into it (or at least he had until I edited it and took them out). That is a common spammers way of doing it so I suspect his account has been hacked and it wasn't him that posted.
Earlier Wabco C ones give an ABS Fault on the dash, followed by Traction Failure when moving, after which the message goes out but the ABS and TC warning lights stay on. Traction Failure then comes up for a few seconds when you turn the ignition off.
I've seen that on a Wabco D too, 1.7kph when standing still whereas the earlier C will show 0.0kph. No idea why it always thinks you are moving though.
As the thermocouple gets dirty then it misreads the temperature too so the heater will try to maintain the wrong temperature. It isn't difficult to take out, it's held in with two small crosshead screws but it does mean the whole panel has to be taken out. Using a vacuum cleaner through the grille doesn't work so it needs taking out and cleaning with a small paintbrush. If it is making a noise then stopping, that probably means it is moving initially then stopping.
Not worth worrying about. My Ascot, being an early car has the really long cables on the rear. When I needed one, I got A front one which was nowhere near long enough, so I just cut the cable off the old and used that to extend it. Soldered joints, glue lined heatshrink and wrapped it all in self amalgamating tape to fully seal the join.
With ABS sensors I prefer to get second hand original Wabco over brand new pattern ones.
950k Ohms ish? As in just under 1 MegOhm? I don't have one to hand to check and it's cold, wet and dark outside so I'm not going out to confirm, but from memory something in the region of 1.2kOhm is what I'd expect to see.
I've seen a problem with a Wabco D system where checking the wheels speeds all were showing the same speed but one was sluggish to start registering. The message, as you rightly say, will be it failing the initial self test.
Unless it's an early car when the rears are much longer as they run along the axle. There's multiple different lengths and the grommets are at different points along the cable length depending on where it was intended to go. All interchangeable though, you just might have a bit of spare cable to lose.
No intermediate connections, the wires from the plugs go directly to the ECU.
I might actually have one. I had to replace the whole cassette on the Ascot (my spare P38) and kept the glass. I gave it to a friend who was restoring a Classic LSE but we found that the Classic glass is flatter so it was no good for him. This was a couple of years ago and he was able to get a new seal then but I'm pretty sure he still has the P38 glass in his workshop. I'll give him a call and ask. No idea how it could be got to Italy in one piece though.....