You should be able to slide the seal back in from the bottom with the window closed. Once you get it partway in, lower the window a bit so the window is running in the seal and you should be able to work it back up until the top is level with the bottom of the main seal (13). The seal has a flat side and a folded back side (on the right in your end on picture), the folded side goes towards the outside of the car. It is there to stop the window rattling around.

I doubt anyone has fitted a new seal, you just aren't looking in the right place. It is the strip marked as 14 on this pic

If you open the window fully you will see the seal that it runs in on the door frame (number 13 in the pic) and if you look down at the front you will almost certainly see a square section steel channel that is a continuation of the guide for the window. The strip you have found should live inside that channel.

I'm trying to work out why somebody fitting a new latch would remove the window and its runners? Then if he had, why wouldn't he put the runner back in complete?

What usually happens is the rubber gets a bit sticky with age so every time the window is opened the rubber moves down slightly in the steel channel but doesn't lift back up when the window is closed. Eventually it has moved all the way down so drops out the bottom of the channel and lays in the bottom of the door.

It fits inside the channel at the front that the window runs in. Without it the window can snag when moving and will rattle if the door is shut with the window partly open.

It isn't a mechanism, it is done by detecting the amount of current being drawn by the motor. It uses that to detect when it is at the top and bottom of the travel but if it has stiff spots between those points, it will see that as the window being trapped.

If the latch is new, it is likely to be the cable that is sticking.

No, you are on the right track but it isn't the microswitches or anything to do with them. There is a horseshoe shaped piece of plastic that the interior door handle cable is attached to and it is sticking. You can probably cure it with plenty of lube squirted at it and working it back and forth a few times. It'll need the door trim panel taking off but no need to take the latch out.

The only thing shown on the picture on the parts list on that side is the clamp for the CV joint boot. It looks to be too close to the reluctor notches so maybe it has had an new boot fitted at some time and it has been pushed on too far?

Looking at the pictures in the parts listing, I can't see what that bit could be. Is it towards the outside (wheel side) or inside (diff side)? The reluctor notches don't appear to be central in the hole so something isn't quite right.

Take them off, the same goes for the intake on the GEMS and, in both cases, the coolant hoses to the heater matrix on the other side. In JMCL's case, he'll probably have to deal with the SAI system on a US spec car too.

Doubtful that it is a head gasket, the only time they cause an oil leak is when it dribbles out the outside and runs down the side of the block. Coolant from a head gasket leak will get into one of the cylinders. Waterways are only by the front and rear cylinders so the first place to look would be to see what state the spark plugs are in. Any looking steam cleaned compared with the others, could be the sign of a leak.

Both fluids have to be going somewhere. A slight coolant leak may not be visible if it evaporates from engine heat but may be seen as slight crystallisation of the anti freeze (or pink stains if you have OAT in it). That amount of oil must be going somewhere. How about at the bellhousing in case it is the rear main seal?

Yes, the socket, ideally 1/4" drive, is essential. First time I wanted to take the rocker covers off, went into my local toolstation and told the guy I needed a 12 point, 8mm socket. He went away and came back with a 13mm one saying it should be close enough......

I've got odd bits and pieces that may come in useful one day, but how come you had a collar if you've never taken a lock out before?

If you can see the end of the rod, you should be able to get something (thin screwdriver, length of thick wire or, ideally, a very thin pair of long nosed pliers or a strong pair of tweezers) in through the hole and move it. Having just checked a door latch that I have on the bench, it appears that it needs to be pushed down to unlock (which will also lift the sill locking button).

When it was first introduced as the T Charge, any import was exempt as there are no emissions data on the V5. When it became ULEZ, they went the other way so no information meant you had to pay it unless you could convince them otherwise.

The only time it will lock you out is if you have suffered dancing locks for ages and ignored it. To do it, it has to lock itself without you doing anything, so that is the only time it will happen.

I thought ULEZ stood for Ultra Low Emission Zone, not additional income because we can zone? It is purely a revenue raising scheme that has nothing to do with cleaner air at all. As you say, pay the fee and drive around generating as much pollution as you want. What I always found even more of a con was parking. Before I retired I would drive into Central London 2 or 3 times a week in a 15 plate Renault Kangoo van with a 1.5 litre diesel engine. The 15 plate Kangoo was Euro 4 so I, or more precisely my employers, had to pay the charges (as I would usually cop for the Congestion Charge too) to drive into the zone but some local authorities charged me extra when I parked as my vehicle used diesel fuel. So I get charged to drive in and generate pollution but then get charged extra to stop using it and generate no pollution at all. How does that work?

Compare it with the French and German systems. You buy a sticker to put in the windscreen of your car that denotes the emissions class. A one off fee valid for the life of the vehicle, €4.20 for France and €6.00 for Germany. If you have no sticker, you can't drive into the city centre zones, at times of high levels of air pollution only the lesser polluting vehicles can drive into the zones and the rest of the time you can. That doesn't generate an income, it improves the air quality which, as far as I am concerned, is the aim. And they class a petrol car running on LPG or LNG the same as a hybrid, only one class down from a full EV.

Some are smooth while others are textured. The painted ones are usually smooth while the textured ones are left plain. The Ascot is an early car (TA VIN) while mine is a 98 (WA VIN) and there doesn't appear to be any difference, neither have cut-outs for the exhausts.

You've obviously done your research but as far as I can see the only difference is whether they are in primer or plain. What do you mean by the others having more cut-outs?

BeCM SID is here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bYljTTLbcRvp6wLJ-3qxhWPEhr4agC-G/view?usp=share_link, page 9 onwards gives a list of everything that will wake the BeCM and gives a step by step diagnosis to battery drain.