4HP24 from the 4.6 is longer by about 15mm but the tailshaft housing is 15mm shorter so the overall length is the same if you are using your original torque converter. To replace the original 4.0 litre 4HP22 with a 4HP24 from a 4.6 I had to change a spacer behind the flex plate for a thinner one to allow for the larger torque converter but that was all. No idea on the diesel as it only has a 3 bolt flex plate and not the 4 bolt on the V8 versions. I know Dave has quite a number of 4HP24 gearboxes all sitting on pallets but he tends to not keep the 22s as he will always fit a 24 to a V8 if it needs a gearbox. However, I got a 4HP22 from a diesel from him a few weeks ago that I took to an owner in Spain. Give him a call and he will be able to tell you exactly what bits you will need to change and what you can retain.

Simple enough to do. You go into the ECU and look at the immobilisation code and write that down. Then you go into the BeCM settings and write the immobilisation code you have just found in the ECU, that puts them in sync. Only problem I can see you having with a D2, is that you don't have a BeCM.....

I recently replaced my gearbox. For access, I put the suspension on high then put my calibration blocks in so it wouldn't drop. I then jacked the front up and put ramps under the front wheels and strapped the wheels to the ramps so it can't roll. Don't forget that once the propshafts are disconnected, there's nothing to stop it rolling.....

Using a trolley jack under the gearbox and two of us (I ratchet strapped the gearbox to the trolley jack), it came out complete with transfer case but as it was only the gearbox we were changing they had to be separated anyway. When it came to fitting the new one, it went on without the transfer case and we fitted that once the box was on. With the crossmember out, getting to the bolts that hold the two together is a lot easier too.

I got a gearbox for mine from Dave at East Coast Range Rovers (07527 953807), £300 delivered on a pallet.

Those two relays (6 and 7) carry a fair amount of current, up to 15A when the blowers are running, so it's worth replacing them with higher current rated ones. The originals are rated at 30A but I've swapped mine for 40A ones. The state of the contacts in the fusebox is also important as even a tiny amount of resistance in there will cause them to get hot.

In your position I wouldn't go so far as replacing big ends and mains or doing too much work other than making sure it is oil and coolant tight. Otherwise you may as well not bother with a replacement engine just rebuild yours. If the sump has to come off you'll get a pretty good idea what the bottom end is like just by what you find in the sump. Maybe try giving the big ends a twist to see if there is any movement that would show excess dry clearance.

As I see it you have two extremes. Either take what your supplier says at face value, drop it in as is and get back on the road as soon as possible (done an engine swap from 4.0 litre to 4.6 on a GEMS in a weekend) or start on a complete rebuild. With the former that then gives you the time to rebuild your original engine at your leisure. Check for anything obvious, the state of the outside of the engine will give you a good clue, is it largely clean and dry or does it have oil stains everywhere?

+1 on rear main seal, as you have them, the oil pump and timing chain (if changing them involves dropping the sump, a new sump gasket too), core plugs might not be a bad idea, especially the ones behind the flywheel, any other gaskets (rocker covers and valley gasket?) that are easier to get at with it on an engine stand and, while you have it sitting in front of you, the water pump.

Attached to the blower is a controller, the HEVAC tells the controller what speed it wants the blower to run at and that powers it. So if they mean they can put power straight onto the motor and it works, it's the controller. It fails in one of two ways, either the blower does nothing or it runs at maximum speed all the time. Blower needs to come out to change it but as it was made by Valeo, it is the same as that used on various French cars. One of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164324521085 is what you need.

Either that or the linkage on the distribution motor wasn't fitted properly. They shouldn't have needed to touch it but the distribution motor drives 3 sets of gears that operate different flaps and if not all are moving that will cause the same problem. First thing to check is that both blowers are working. Easy enough by taking the pollen filters out and looking down the hole.

Cursed Britpart and realised I have a magic screwdriver. Nothing to do with Range Rovers but had to visit an AC system I installed a couple of weeks ago this morning. 2 indoor units from a single outdoor unit but one of the indoor units had stopped working. A bit of an odd fault as it appeared to work, the fan came on, no fault indicators but no cold air, just ambient. Did a bit of checking and found pressures were all over the place on the faulty one but fine on the working one. Called technical support who suggested that maybe the actuator on the top of the expansion valve had popped off. So, 18 self tappers later to get the covers off found it hadn't. Checked all the connections, which appeared fine and switched the unit back on while watching the pressures. They changed as they should but kept on going and a strange whistling started coming from the expansion valve, so I tapped it with the screwdriver handle. The whistling stopped, the pressures stabilised and the unit started to work properly.

So that was the morning but in the afternoon had to repeat a job on the Classic. Having previously replaced the petrol pump with a brand new Britpart one, I'd tried to start it yesterday and found the pump wasn't working. Checked for power, all OK but the pump itself measured open circuit when I put my meter on it. Duff pump then. Checked and found that while I could get another Britpart one for around £30, a genuine LR one would have been £544. Another Britpart it is then.

Postman had delivered it by the time I got in so I set about dropping the tank again. Having done it a few days ago this time it was easy, no seized bolts and I knew exactly what needed to come off and in what order. New pump fitted and the Classic fired up immediately so turned my attention to the one I'd just taken off. It looked perfect but the meter still showed it to be open circuit until I tapped it with the screwdriver handle when the reading went to normal. Put power on it and it worked! So, 2 jobs in one day, both of which could have been cured with a tap from my magic screwdriver......

First guess was correct, left and right. However, the ducts from each come to the heater matrix and then split again after it. If only one blower is working the airflow from the working one gets to the heater matrix and has a choice of which way to go, through the matrix or across to the other side and out where the air would normally come in. That will result in not a lot of air out of the vents.

Two of us picked one up to move it, not easy but could be done.

It's all alloy so not that heavy at all. I would suspect under 100kg so even a small Machine Mart one will do the job.

Mostly yesterday but changed the rear air springs for a pair of new Dunlops. While not leaking the ones on there have been there for 12 years and 250k miles and were starting to look a bit perished, so figured I might as well. Also fitted a pair of new wiper blades and gave it a good going over in preparation of the MoT booked for 8:30 this morning. Was aiming for a pass with no advisories but got one anyway. What is the one thing you don't bother checking on a P38? That's right, the lights. It tells you if there's a bulb out doesn't it? It does, all except for number plate lights and I only had one working. Not bad that all he could find wrong was one blown number plate light though.

They were in a big folder of papers that I got with the car, so no idea how they were obtained. It also shows that it has also had a couple of personal plates on it over the years too.

I've got a service record from LR for the Ascot and that shows the names of whoever took it in to be serviced and where. If you can get hold of that and combine it with the dates of owner changes that should give the names of the previous owners.

Sounds more metallic to me, not an exhaust blow. One thing that can sound almost exactly like that is a slightly bent tooth on the CPS reluctor ring just touching the CPS tip. Take the cover off the lower part of the bellhousing so you can see the ring. Check each tooth very carefully but I suspect you will see one that isn't quite parallel with the others and, most likely, with a shiny spot on it where it has been catching. I only know because I bent one of the teeth on mine slightly when undoing the flex plate to torque converter bolts and it made that very same noise when I first started it after the gearbox change.

It depends on the position of the distribution motor flaps. If it is blowing out of the footwell vents then there will be less coming out of the face vents. If it is set so that it is only coming out of the face vents, with the blowers on full, it should give you a good blast. The HEVAC automatically adjusts the distribution flaps depending on where it thinks the air is needed most to get the interior temperature at what you have set it for.

If only one blower is working, most of the airflow will be blown out the side where it isn't working. Easy enough to check by taking the pollen filters out and having a look down the hole.

Huh? But you've already found the right stuff. Or do you mean 75W-90 for the diffs?

Should've given it some revs.......

I find it's better to stick with what was current at the time something was built. I did a diff oil change some years ago and decided to put Millers fully synthetic 75W-90 in and they both immediately started whining. Drained it out and put old school mineral 75W-90 in and the whining went away.