Oh it will stick believe me. That why is it a two, or preferably three, person job. One person to smooth it down while the others hold it up because once they come into contact they are stuck.

No need to remove the old glue, just the horribly sticky bits of orange foam so the surface is smooth without lumps.

But if that is the case, you do still have a fault. I start mine, reverse off the driveway (so use the brakes then) and drive off down the road. If I don't leave it idling before I start moving, it comes up to pressure and the lights go out as I pass the bus shelter about 50m down the road. I do this every time I go anywhere and don't get any faults.

Not sure I follow the fault. Until the system is up to pressure, you'll get all 3 lights on (ABS, Brake warning and TC), once up to pressure Brake warning and TC will go out (as long as you have the handbrake off otherwise the brake warning light will stay on until you release it), ABS will stay on until you hit 5mph forwards (it doesn't seem to go out in reverse, or mine doesn't anyway) then it will go out. Are you saying that you get the faults if you use the brakes while reversing but before it is up to pressure but when driving normally, you don't?

Be careful with swapping to different headlamp bulbs. The regulations used to be that you could have HID or LED bulbs if the headlamps had a levelling device (which we have) and headlamp wipers (which most of us have) but that has now been changed. The wording in the testers manual says:
Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible.

I use Osram Nightbreakers in mine as they are noticeably better than standard halogen but still legit. My boot light kept falling out of its hole in the tailgate so I got a rectangular LED panel that was around the same size and fitted that. Then discovered that as I keep my toolbox on the LH side of the boot (where the CD player and sub would live if I had them) I was in my own shadow if I wanted to get something out of the toolbox. So I fitted another on the other side.....

Usually the hardest part of changing a head gasket is getting the heat shield off the exhaust manifold, but, as the garage has already done it that's one stumbling block you won't have to deal with. HG isn't a difficult job, except for the aforementioned exhaust manifold heatshield, as long as you have the right tools. For the head bolts I use a 16mm spark plug socket as it is 6 point and 1/2" drive so you can give it plenty of grunt.

As for doing just one or both. While you are at it, you may as well do both, it'll take longer and you'll have to deal with the heatshield and the bastard to get at rear exhaust manifold bolt on the driver's side (taking the wheelarch liner out and going in from there makes that easier, might make the heatshield easier too, at least you'll be able to see what you are doing). You'll be surprised at how quickly it will come apart. Follow the steps in RAVE and the head should be off in 3-4 hours, less for the second one as the inlet and stuff at the top will already be off. Cleaning up faces while waiting for the head(s) to be skimmed are likely to take longer if you do it properly.

You may be able to wake the motor up with a squirt of contact cleaner through the holes so it gets on the brushes, spin it a few times then hit it with 9V and run it both ways.

Yes, pics do have to be hosted elsewhere (such as imgur) and linked to. There's a sticky at the top of the forum with instructions how to do it.

Not only that but LEDs normally only need 3V but they are being supplied with 12V. Purpose made replacements will likely have current limiting resistors in series with them but just plain LEDs won't have. If you do manage to get them to work, they should still dim though as the panel light dimmer doesn't reduce the voltage as in old school motors but sends a PWM voltage to them.

It's a mod that I won't be doing as every one I have seen has nice bright panel lights which look really impressive but when I'm driving through the night on the continent, I dim mine right down. A Saab 900 I used to have had a very nice button to put the dash in Night Mode where it dimmed the speedo illumination right down and switched all the other dash lights off.

I think you'll find those LEDs from ABD are too big. They will fit the HEVAC but not in the switches, they really are tiny.

That set is only for the dash, not the switches. The three bulbs that illuminate the message centre have green covers over them, the others don't. The ones in the switches are tiny little things and completely different to the instrument panel bulbs. See the pic here https://www.lrdirect.com/stc1877-bulb-and-holder-switches-orange and https://www.lrdirect.com/stc1878-bulb-and-holder-switches-green?sfi=STC187_

You don't need a full dash out, just the centre console surround. Side panels off, screws either side of the radio (if you have the original radio, they are behind the fascia surround which just pulls off), drop the knee panel and remove the instrument cluster surround. That will show you the two screws on the right and one on the left and allow you to pull the whole surround forward. Switches can be unplugged and the switches pushed out from behind.

Tell tale for the rear fog light is Orange whereas the one for the front fogs and the backlighting is Green. Bulb part numbers are STC1877 for Orange, STC1878 for Green. For some unknown reason the green ones are 5 times the price of the orange one. LRDiect have both in stock. Can't help with LED equivalents though, for the time being it might be worth just putting a replacement bulb in the switch to get you through the test and do the LED conversion when it is a bit warmer.....

No need to disconnect the battery, just make sure you don't turn the ignition on while things are disconnected.

This, https://web.archive.org/web/20180509124955/http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html is how to get to them.

No other wires will need to be connected. If you look at the diagram below, you'll see that only the brown and black wires are connected to the motors, the other 3 are for the feedback pot.

On the diagram
B=Brown
N=Black
W=White
RB=Red/Black
S=Grey

Dash out is not a fun way of spending a couple of days, it isn't difficult just very laborious. With a right angle screwdriver it is possible to get the blend motors out without cutting the duct (although you will need to if you are doing the heater core O rings). Don't try to drive the motors from the HEVAC with them not connected as that will also bring up a fault as they will travel further than normal.

Book symbol will go out if no faults are found. If the problem is the blend motors you can sometimes reset it by unplugging the blend motor plug, turning the ignition on for 10 seconds, then off again. Then plug back in and try ignition on again. It will go out but if the fault is still there will come back on after a few seconds when it tries to check them, or immediately if there is another fault detected. Odd that you can't hear them with the battery though.

If you take the instrument cluster out (4 screws, one at each corner), you can see the blend motors. Do NOT turn the ignition on with the cluster unplugged (that will give you an SRS fault) but it can be moved to one side so you can see the blend motors moving when you tell them to.

Chrisp38 wrote:

the rear wabcos are still good but I don't know how old they are

Probably the same age as the car.....

They are the same, irrespective of which side the steering wheel is on. The handle mechanism is the same, the handles are the same just the a RHD RH handle has the lock. There would be nothing to stop the owner of a LHD car fitting a RHD, RH handle to their passenger door. It would just have a lock in it that wouldn't do anything.

I must confess though, I bought both STC3063 and STC3064 from Land Rover (ordered them through my local dealer and picked them up the next day) just before everyone started saying the RH one was NLA so suspect I am the guilty party that got the last one..... However if enough people go on the JLR site and click the Notify Me button, they will re-manufacture them, that is how they are doing it. If there is demand they will make them (or buy them in from their sub-contractor that made them in the first place).

Up to you. If I've needed an ABS sensor I've always gone to my local dismantler (Avenger 4x4) and got a second hand genuine Wabco. He charges me £20 a time. If the Britpart really is OEM, then you wont go far wrong but I know some people have found aftermarket ones to not last long.

Yes, the cone makes sure it seats properly and doesn't go in lopsided. The O ring won't seal if it isn't flat into the hole.

The most likely cause is the cable is sticking and after you have opened the door it isn't returning fully. Whether the cable has been kinked so it binds but if you pull it all the way back and let it spring back, that is moving it enough to fully return. It isn't likely to be the latch or it would do the same if you open it from the outside handle. You need the door card off (again, hopefully you haven't fitted your new shedder yet) and then operate the interior handle few times while watching the horseshoe shaped lever that the cable is attached to and making sure that returns fully.

I don't think they are lead, more likely Mazak aka Monkey Metal.