Doors will lock when the latch is unplugged and should unlock again when you plug it back in. But only the once, so doing a dancing lock would suggest your repair wasn't 100% successful. I bought some microswitches of the correct size from RS Components but found that the standard mounting holes do not line up with the locating pegs on the latch. I understand Marty uses thin threaded rod through the holes and drills the latch body to mount them.
Found the Convert from Text command and that got each reading into separate columns but can't then convert that into graphs. I thought it was because some columns had words rather than numbers in them (On or Off for the compressor, Standard or Low for target height, etc) so I hid all columns with non-numeric entries. Still can't get a graph to appear though, I just get a box appear with nothing in it.
Going off at a slight tangent but having consulted my Excel expert (the missus), I now know why I can't get the data to convert to graphs. The csv file from the Nanocom is semi-colon delimited which my version of Excel (Office Pro 2013) doesn't recognise so puts each line in the same column rather than splitting each figure into a separate column. I seem to recall that the previous versions of Excel gave the option of telling it what the delimiter was but neither of us can find out how to do it in this version.
That's better. For some reason it is only showing 2 of the 4 target heights, but they are as you would expect, straight lines of varying height depending on what height it is supposed to be aiming for. But, although there is going to be movement up and down on the actual heights as you drive, I would have expected them to roughly follow the target heights with a bit of variation either side of target. The first graph shows something like I would expect, the others look completely wrong.
You create an account, sign in then click on your name. A drop down menu appears with Images as one option. Click on that and it will show that you don't have any but with a big green Add Images button.
I would suspect the easiest, or at least the most reliable way of doing it, would be to save the graph as a picture (using the Windows snipping tool if you have to), upload it to imgur.com or similar and insert it as a picture (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur)
Graphs aren't showing up I'm afraid and if I try to open the links, I get a message that I think is saying I don't have permission to view them. I had the same problem with the CSV Viewer but found it does work on some files. I think it has something to do with how they are closed when you stop recording. Although I use Excel quite a bit, only for numbers and have never managed to get it to convert to graphs.
Swapping sensors side to side is a good plan as not only will it show the suspect readings moving from one side to the other but it will also be using a less used part of the track so may even cure the problem. You will need to recalibrate afterwards and it does get offended if the bit counts from side to side are very different.
To connect to the BeCM the ignition needs to be Off, for all the others, it needs to be On (engine running or not). Are you trying the correct airbag ECU? Assuming you mean SRS, there are different ones fitted to different years and markets, MPS for very early cars (and US models) with the two crash sensors behind the headlights, SPS1 for the GEMS and SPS2 for Thor. You need to be using the correct one.
Otherwise, OBD signals go via the large connector in the RH kick panel and different circuits use different pins in the OBD connector, SRS uses pin 14 (and 13 on MPS) which isn't used by any other circuit.
Most likely cause is the left rear height sensor has a dead spot or poor connection at the plug. I was asked to look at one car that was doing the same, suddenly deciding to go to the High setting and a squirt of contact cleaner in the plug on the height sensor cured it (although I did tell the owner that a new height sensor may be needed in the not too distant). Use the Nano to look at the sensor readings and move the car up and down a few times. If you get a sudden low reading on one of the sensors, the ECU will think a corner is low so try to pump it up to get the reading correct.
No but looks to be almost certainly the same spec, headlamp wash/wipe, front fogs, base spec 7J wheels and, according to DVLA, a 4.0 litre engine, the same livery and General Electric light bars on the roof. It probably had the same base spec cloth seats too. However, DVLA vehicle check shows that car, N461 VVM hasn't been taxed since July 1998 so I suspect it was written off and mine was one of the batch that replaced it. I exchanged emails some years ago with one of the, now retired, GMP traffic officers that used them and he said they had two batches of them, the first being N reg (registered Feb 1996) and the second being R reg (registered March 1998) and all registered in Manchester. It was him that supplied me with the picture of mine.
This is mine in its previous life, 1998 to 2006, Greater Manchester Police
The P38 you've found the pic of is from the previous batch GMP bought (VM, Manchester registration) while mine was from their second batch.
If you fancy taking the latch out and indulging in a bit of surgery, I've got a couple of the switch blocks taken from dead driver's latches. They have failed keyswitch contacts but the door ajar and CDL switches are OK. As the keyswitch isn't used on the passenger door, it won't matter that it has failed anyway.
Problem I always find when selling stuff on eBay, or anywhere else for that matter, is finding suitable sized boxes to package it in.
Not a problem with posting stuff for sale on here, in fact we even have a thread dedicated to it. If you have a list, with prices if you want or leave that up for negotiation, post it here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1983-the-place-for-sales-swaps-wants-offers-gifts-and-giveaways
What are EoC doing now, stopping altogether or dropping P38 parts to concentrate on the later models? I've only used them once for a starter motor that I checked before fitting and found it dead. Contacted them and they simply sent me another free of charge and didn't want the dead one back either.
You should be able to slide the seal back in from the bottom with the window closed. Once you get it partway in, lower the window a bit so the window is running in the seal and you should be able to work it back up until the top is level with the bottom of the main seal (13). The seal has a flat side and a folded back side (on the right in your end on picture), the folded side goes towards the outside of the car. It is there to stop the window rattling around.
I doubt anyone has fitted a new seal, you just aren't looking in the right place. It is the strip marked as 14 on this pic
If you open the window fully you will see the seal that it runs in on the door frame (number 13 in the pic) and if you look down at the front you will almost certainly see a square section steel channel that is a continuation of the guide for the window. The strip you have found should live inside that channel.
I'm trying to work out why somebody fitting a new latch would remove the window and its runners? Then if he had, why wouldn't he put the runner back in complete?
What usually happens is the rubber gets a bit sticky with age so every time the window is opened the rubber moves down slightly in the steel channel but doesn't lift back up when the window is closed. Eventually it has moved all the way down so drops out the bottom of the channel and lays in the bottom of the door.
It fits inside the channel at the front that the window runs in. Without it the window can snag when moving and will rattle if the door is shut with the window partly open.
It isn't a mechanism, it is done by detecting the amount of current being drawn by the motor. It uses that to detect when it is at the top and bottom of the travel but if it has stiff spots between those points, it will see that as the window being trapped.
If the latch is new, it is likely to be the cable that is sticking.