That's a setting in the BeCM as to what happens if the alarm is triggered, hazards, main beam, horn, whatever combination you want. However, looking at the Nanocom documentation, under BeCM - Settings - Alarm, it says this:

· Alarm: The alarm can be either enabled or disabled if required. Disabling the alarm
prevents the alarm from arming and stops all audible and visual activity whenever the
vehicle is locked or unlocked. It does not affect the immobilization.

So if it can be disabled, that should cure the problem.

This made me curious so I've just gone through the BeCM SID to see if I can see what arms the alarm. There doesn't appear to be a specific line that gives an output when the alarm is armed other than the feed to the LED on top of the dash. There's inputs from the ultrasonic sensor and from the door latches and outputs to the sounder but nothing that appears to be alarm specific. I suspect it is a case that if the ignition is off, the engine isn't running and the doors are locked, that enables the alarm system. This would suggest that, for some obscure reason, the BeCM is triggering the alarm sounder so it could be a BeCM fault.....

Brakes - ABS, Description and Operation. However, it doesn't tell you how to test it but it does show the following:

A dynamometer is a bit different to a brake tester but I suspect if you were to turn off the Traction Control then it wouldn't do what they said it was doing. It would have been the TC light flashing on, not the ABS light. ABS light only comes on to show a fault.

If you want to test the ABS and Traction Control, you need to find a piece of road with a verge of mud. Stick two wheels on the road and the other two on the mud and floor the throttle. The ones on the mud will try to spin and the TC will kick in to slow them down. Then stomp on the brake pedal and the ones on the mud will try to lock and you will feel and hear the ABS modulator doing its thing as it pulses the brakes on and off on the wheels slippy side.

They are two wheel rollers and you CANNOT test a permanent 4 wheel drive vehicle on a 2 wheel roller. He's talking out of his arse if he says it can test them as it tests one wheel at a time. If he watches what is happening, one wheel will be turning in one direction while the other one on the same axle will be rotating in the opposite direction while the two wheels not on the rollers will be trying to push the car off them. There is no problem with your brakes at all, one wheel is locking due to the Traction Control. If they were sat in the car while doing it, they would have seen the TC lamp flashing on to tell them that. It may be further away but I would suggest going elsewhere next time the test is due.

If you do full lock turns and you find the front wheels are 'skipping', the viscous unit in the transfer case has seized. That will subsequently kill the front diff. Two ways to cause the viscous to seize is to drive the car with one propshaft disconnected or run it on a 2 wheel brake test roller.

If you have no ABS light on, you won't have any faults stored and no fault with the ABS system. You can replace anything you like and it won't make the slightest difference. Your problem is a tester that doesn't know his job.

The problem with bolts is you don't know if they are an identical spec to original. If they are too soft and stretch too easily, the heads won't be held down as well as they should be so the head gasket will fail again. Too hard so don't stretch as much as they should and there's a risk of pulling the threads out of the block or snapping the bolts. With an engine out of the car, giving a long bar 90 degrees isn't a problem, trying to do it with the engine in the car is nigh on impossible as other things get in the way.

With the studs, you simply torque them down in two or three stages. I'd be interested to see reviews that have preferred bolts over studs as the only advantage I can see with them is cost.

The ABS unit isn't faulty, it is doing exactly as it was designed to do, slowing down the fastest turning wheel. If they tested the parking brake on a roller too, the usual method is to check one wheel at a time. If that is done it will show no brake effort as the other wheel will be rotating in the opposite direction as the parking brake is on the propshaft. So I would expect that it to be a failure too. The other problem is that they can destroy the viscous coupling in the transfer case by having one axle turning with the other stationery.

The UK MoT testers manual clearly states:
Using a roller brake tester
Ensure that the vehicle, or system, under test is suitable for testing using a roller brake tester. If the vehicle or system is unsuitable, it should be tested with a decelerometer.

I've taken a couple of Audi saloons and a Bentley Continental with permanent 4 wheel drive in for MoT and IVA tests and all have been tested with a decelerometer and not on the rollers. I suggest you go back and ask them to check their instructions on brake testing something with permanent 4 wheel drive.

As Pete says, if tested on two wheel rollers, the Traction Control will kick in and brake the wheel that is turning fastest. So the rear wheels won't be turning at all and it will brake one or other than is turning faster than that. So it isn't a fault but by design. A permanent 4 wheel drive vehicle must NEVER be brake tested on a 2 wheel roller. I know you are in ROI but they should know that as just the same as in every other country that has a test.

Just checked Real Steel and they are exactly the same price. But, as said, it does make the job easier, the heads can be torqued down more accuartely and evenly and less chance of future problems. Fit them and torque down to 65 ft/lb, none of this heaving on a bar to get 90 degrees and waiting for something to give.

Which car is that in James? Not the Linley surely?

It won't do a lot of damage if you treat it gently. The one that I did had been doing it for a few days before being driven 45 miles to me at a steady 80mph. Off with the head, a light skim and back on. Did the other side while in there as it didn't seem worth just doing the one. Took me two days but half of that was taking the heads in and waiting while they were done.

Or this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKEqPY5rX7A, which was the head gasket blowing out the side of the block/head joint just below the exhaust manifold.

I've never had a problem with manifold to head bolts, they just come out. The only difficulty is access to the front one on the passenger side as it is under the AC compressor. Spraying Plus Gas onto the head of a bolt isn't going to do a lot either. It's getting the heatshields off first that normally gives grief.

Unlikely to be the head to manifold joint if it suddenly got worse from booting it. Might be from the manifold to downpipe joint (and it's blown a bit of gasket out) or it could be the manifold itself. Manifold to downpipe isn't too bad. 3 nuts on M10 studs. Nuts might come off (with the aid of Plus Gas) or the studs will unscrew, it doesn't really matter. If the manifold needs to come off, all bar one of the bolts are easy enough to get at, one, the furthest to the front on a passenger side (rather than the one furthest to the back on the drivers side), can be a pain.

Get a bit of plastic tube and, with the engine idling, shove one end in your ear and wave the other end around the manifold. You should be able to identify where it is blowing from.

Those of us that run LPG know which stations have closed and which are still there. Some parts of the country are well supplied while there are areas that aren't. It depends how you intend using the car. If you are going to be using it every day and doing long distances (as I do), then running on half price fuel definitely makes a difference. If it is going to be used at odd times for short journeys, then run on LPG when you can and petrol when you can't.

This thread refers to the door latches not the handles but you don't need new handles at all. This thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless details how to rebuild the door handles with new internals so they no longer stick, STC3064 is the kit for the RH handles while STC3063 is for the LH handle. About a fiver each......

Surely just going into an LR main dealer and ordering through them is more convenient? JaguarLandRoverClassic.com, is Land Rover themselves so you just order through a main dealer and it is ready to collect the next day.

EJD101600 is the part number and in stock with Land Rover https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/ejd101600-shedder-front-door-water.html.

Listed by a number of other suppliers but all around the same price. Advantage with getting it from LR is you can just go into a main dealer and order it through them, no problems with duty or VAT like you'd get buying from the UK.

Shell at Addlestone is cheap and there's 3 more expensive (99.9 per litre) near Heathrow so not a complete oasis like some areas of the country. The thing is, just because you've got LPG you don't necessarily have to use it, you can always run on petrol if you have to (or have money to burn). I'm lucky in as much as I have 5 filling stations within 10 miles so can always fill up near to home. When I'm going any distance, or over the range of a full tank, I can check the autogas.app to find somewhere on my route where I can fill up. Not much difference to the range anxiety that EV drivers talk about (other than it takes me a lot less time to fill up), it just might require a bit more forward planning.

Deleted your duplicate. If the LPG system works, leave it. If it doesn't, fix it, they aren't complicated and a 210 mile trip for around £50 has got to be worthwhile. What system is it? Does it have additional LPG injectors per cylinder or just a mixer attached to the throttle body?