The ETM is obviously wrong then. For both early and late it shows 6 wires to the non-memory mirrors, a pair for the heater and a pair each for the two motors. I wonder what the other two do?
Fuse 1 supplies a constant 12V to the window switch panel and it also supplies the instruments, so disconnecting that will cause the trip to reset. There doesn't appear to be any connection with the interior lights though but checking for corrosion on fuse 1 pins would be a good place to start.
8 pin? Memory mirrors have 10 pins, no memory only have 6. My observation is that 20 year old worn plastic gears are probably still stronger than brand new Chinese ones.....
It wasn't me that posted the tests but Marty. Check that you have 12V at the input to the voltage regulator and 5V at the output. I've seen mention of the 5V rail being accidentally shorted to ground which takes out the regulator.
I tried converting it to png, gif and changing the file extension from jpg to jpeg, uploaded all variants to imgur and tried to link to them but every time it told me it wasn't an accepted format.
URL for the old one is https://i.imgur.com/wsu0e4s.jpg and the image properties are:
150x107 pixels
72 pixels per inch
Pixel Depth/Colours 24/16 million
URL for the new one is https://i.imgur.com/uYsXAXR.jpg (so exactly the same format) and the image properties are exactly the same. If I change the file extension from jpg to jpeg, when uploaded to imgur, it reverts back to jpg.
I also sent Gordon this
so he can update the banner on the site when he gets around to it.
But all of this has nothing to do with the PCRV......
Tried that, didn't work.....
Bolt wrote:
I have a couple of photos of the new defective part, and have failed to be able to attach them....
I know there is a trick to it.....Post them somewhere and link to them??
Although some have managed to link to pictures on Google drive, I've never managed to get it to work so use Imgur, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur
I'm having a problem at the moment trying to update my avatar from this
to this
But the site keeps telling me it can only accept jpg, gif or png and it is a jpg with the same colour depth and size as the previous one?
Our local amateur radio club banned me and a colleague from entering the fox hunts as they claimed we had an unfair advantage. Admittedly, we did win it 4 years running..... When dealing with hams I would often get asked if I was an amateur myself. My answer to that was, although I hold an amateur licence, I'm a professional as I get paid for it. Not active though I will admit as after almost 50 years playing with radio during work time, the last thing I wanted to do was play with radio in my own time.
Ooh, now into a subject I know a lot about as RF was work until I retired. Radio transmissions don't stop when they reach a National border so have to be coordinated. Hence the way the radio spectrum is used in the UK has to be coordinated with western Europe, which has to be coordinated with Eastern Europe and so on. The US only has land borders with Canada, who have had to accept the same spectrum allocations as the US, and Mexico that they don't care about. Hence the use of the radio spectrum in the US is totally different to the rest of the world. So they chose to use 315MHz, which was unused in the US but is in the military air band in the rest of the world. Their mobile phone bands are different to the rest of the world and the frequency used by their DECT cordless telephones, wireless headsets, baby alarms, etc are in the band used in Europe by 3 as a mobile uplink frequency. So anyone using US spec equipment in Europe can completely kill a local mobile phone site. I used to spend many a happy hour tracing these......
Going back to when RF was initially used for car security, it was different in just about every country, UK used 418MHZ and there were 3 other frequencies used in Europe alone causing a lot of grief for the motor manufacturers. So, CEPT (Committee European Postes and Telecommunications) proposed a standardised frequency for Europe of 433.8-439MHz for momentarily operated short range devices. There was one slight problem with this as it is within the amateur 70cms allocation of 430 - 440MHz but the primary user of the band is the MoD so the hams had to put up with it. What made it worse was that while amateur repeaters in that part of the band all use a 1.6MHz duplex split, in the UK it is base Tx low and mobile Tx high but in Europe it is the other way round. So the output of the base transmitter, usually running 25W, is on 433.0-433.375 with the input 1.6MHz higher up the band compared with Europe where the base Tx is upwards of 434.6. So in Europe the problem we suffered here doesn't happen as the base transmitters are far enough away to not really cause a problem. Initially, my employers at the time, the Radiocommunications Agency, mandated that these frequencies could only be used for RAKE (Remote Access Keyless Entry) devices but CEPT got a bit offended by this and insisted that it must be allowed for all short range devices, hence wireless doorbells, burglar alarms, remote controls, kids toys and numerous other devices all using the same bit of spectrum. So while these other devices shouldn't cause problems, as they are not something that will transmit permanently and are restricted to the same power outputs as the car keyfob, parking next to a site that happens to have a 70cms amateur repeater on it won't be a problem in Europe but will be a big problem here. Car manufacturers eventually moved to a dedicated part of the 868MHz band and in the last couple of years a lot, including Land Rover, have moved over to a far more secure spread spectrum system.
Most video relay stuff operated in a dedicated 10MHz chunk centred on 1394MHz but as 10MHz isn't wide enough for analogue video, it wasn't used much so 2400-2480MHz is used instead for video senders even though it is also used by WiFi. There was some illegal Chinese stuff that found its way here that operated in the 10GHz band but that was a bit of a problem as it is used for aero navigation. Another one that I spent more happy hours tracing.
So it does, from the Nanocom HEVAC document:
Attention: If the BECM is unlocked, the vehicle server might not be able to communicate with
this ECU. In order to bypass this, unplug the white connector (the one nearest to the front)
located under the driver seat (RHD) under a removable panel in the fuse box.
When I first got my car, it had an indicator stalk without buttons for the trip computer although the wiring was all there. I bought a stalk with buttons but the trip computer still didn't work as it was disabled in the BeCM. A local independent had a genuine LR Testbook and offered to enable it for me. While in there he checked everything else, found it was unlocked and told me it shouldn't be left like that as it can cause all sorts of problems and it would be best to lock it. So, not knowing any different, I told him to do it. That was 13 years ago, so the rumours have been around for a long time. Quite why it was unlocked I've no idea but I suspect it had been left like that from LRSV as it was built for a police force and they had no idea what plod might want to do to it......
On both my cars and a number of others I've put the Nanocom on, the HEVAC can be a bit finicky to access anyway. It will almost always not connect on the first try and needs at least a second go before it connects. Maybe that is where the rumours of problems on an unlocked BeCM came from? Someone had what seems (to me at least) a common problem and assumed it was because a BeCM was unlocked. It only takes one person to post something online and it becomes gospel.
Not a bad idea. I have a friend who buys cars that come up at the right price and either breaks them or refurbishes them to sell on. I'm waiting for him to buy a GEMS (although mostly he sticks to later ones) so I can have the TPS, IAV, green temp sender and a few other bits that are NLA.
The fobs for each car have a lockset barcode and within that code there can be up to 4 subsets. So the 4 keys will all have the same master lockset barcode with a difference showing which of the 4 keys it is within that code. So a key from a different car will have a totally different barcode so they can't be mixed. Getting a BeCM unlocked can only be done with specialist equipment but it can cause problems with connection to diagnostics and, as it is unlocked, means you can change things that shouldn't be changed (if you don't know what you are changing) and end up turning it into a brick.
This is on the Ascot, my spare car that gets very little use. It's a '96, with 180k on the clock. I've had it about 5 years or so and have not touched them and from the amount of work I had to do on it when I first got it, they wouldn't have been changed for some time before as nothing else had been done on it. I bought it to sort out the problems and sell it on but shortly after getting it all done, we had need for a second large car so my missus used it for a while and we realised that it was too useful to have it for when it was needed so have kept it. Most of the time it sits there not being used but is kept legal so it can be used as and when needed.
Mine is on it's second set of fronts and third set on the rear. When I bought it in 2010, the rear airsprings were perished and one had burst so I put a pair on it then. The fronts were changed a couple of years later. One of the rears started to leak last year so I bought a complete set, replaced the rears but have yet to get around to fitting the new ones to the front (although they do look a bit perished, aren't leaking yet).
No they aren't and the GEMS ones are NLA. You will see them advertised as correct for GEMS but the centre where the throttle spindle engages is wrong. They look the same but have a D shaped hole (the same as a standard pot) but they should have two lugs that the edges of the throttle spindle bear against.
I can't explain why the idle reference is showing 65280 but can explain why it is idling very high. On initially opening the throttle, the TPS signal causes the ECU to open the idle air valve to raise the revs smoothly rather than relying on the airflow through the throttle butterfly. As you give it more throttle, then the idle air valve has a much lesser effect and the airflow through the butterfly takes over. Almost like the accelerator pump on a old school carb setup. The closed throttle reference (Stored Throttle) is showing as 0.66V but the TPS is sending a voltage of greater than that (0.72V). This makes the ECU think you are opening the throttle slightly so has opened the Idle air valve and raised the idle. If you look you will see that the IAV reading corresponds with the idle speed, 156=2638, 157=2650 and 163=2723. At a normal idle, with a warm engine, the IAV should be at around 25-30.
That is why, after a reset, the stored voltage at idle, matches the actual TPS voltage.
Probably the air spring. I've never changed them and they do look a bit on the perished side so may even be the originals. A number of people have noticed that leaks are more apparent in cold weather but no idea why.
This one enter link description here the EAS system Information document.
Must have been designed by a bloke. It can only do one thing at once.....