Both of mine on the rear are scrap. The nearside one came adrift, caught on the inside of the wheel and folded itself almost in half. Offside one brackets had broken too so for the time being, I've taken them both off. My old Classic didn't have either of them there all the time I owned it. They don't do that much anyway and at £100+ each I intend using the remaining one as a pattern to make a couple in aluminium. I did think about cleaning it up and taking a mould so I could make a batch in fibreglass but figured I'd never get it clean and shiny enough to be able to pull a mould off. If I had a brand new one that might be a possibility but for now I'm going to go down the alloy route.
Lpgc wrote:
What are the chances that someone spliced in 5>0v sensors instead of the 0>1v sensors? I know that in this company I have no need to mention that with the 5>0v sensors a 5v signal; points to lean and a 0v signal points to rich...So if a fitter had mixed up their P38 models and spliced in 5>0v sensors on a model that should use 0>1v sensors there would be constant rich running error codes and the fuel trims might be leaned off leading to reduced engine torque, the engine would still rev but the car would lack power and go up through the gears slowly.
Pretty remote. Not only are the electrical plugs different so you can't mix them, but I understand the threaded boss in the downpipes are a different size for precisely this reason, so you can't fit the wrong ones.
If you swap them from side to side you may find it will be OK for a while as it will be using a different segment of the track, but originals are much better. I find secondhand originals from a breaker to be far better than brand new pattern.....
Use the Nanocom to look at the live data, particularly the output from the lambda sensors. The Thor has standard 0-1V sensors with 0V meaning lean and 1V meaning rich, Both at idle and when being driven you should see these flip flopping between the two extremes. I suspect they have failed (and if original I suspect they have well outlived their lifetimes) so are giving 0V output, that makes the ECU think the engine is running lean so it will try to bucket more petrol in to get it right. Obviously this has doesn't happen so the fuel trim adaptive values reach the limit of what is expected and gives the codes. If you reset the adaptive values it will be OK for a short period until it corrects what it sees as an error in fuelling.
Front Right height sensor is giving low readings, either a bad connection at the plug, a worn out sensor or an almost new pattern one that has reached the end of its life. What is happening is that the system thinks the front right is too low so is sending more air to it to try to get it correct. That means the front right will be very high, the front left will be higher than it should be (as no matter how much rust you have on your chassis, getting it to twist is pretty nigh on impossible) and the rear will be a bit lopsided too.
Try just disconnecting the blue wire to the receiver for starters. That will reduce the operational range of the receiver and may be enough to stop it.
No,rear headrests removed and sitting on top of the front headrests, pushed right up as far as the sun visors and, as it was fractionally wider than the tailgate opening, the back of it was sitting on the side supports either side. So even the tailgate would close. With me driving it was sitting on the top of my head but as the missus is slightly shorter than me, it was above her head so she drove it. Rear view mirror was a bit superfluous though.....
I've managed to get a 8 x 4 (2.44 x 1.22 m) sheet of plywood in the back of a P38. The rear tailgate opening is 1.2m but with the back seats folded down, you should be able to get it in on the diagonal.
See if you can see the horseshoe shaped bit of plastic that the interior handle connects to. If that has stuck at one end of the travel, you won't be able to open the door. If it has, poke it with a long stick so it sits central and the door should open.
I have always only ever fitted genuine LR heater core O rings, for the difference in price (£5 each against £3 a pair for blue box) it's a no-brainer. It certainly sounds like you have identified the problem and it may be that the O rings are the weakest link so the pressure is causing them to leak. A decent secondhand engine would be the cheapest and simplest way forward, building one from scratch will eat money when you start with fitting top hat liners and then adding up the cost of other components (bearing, gaskets, etc).
The other thing to check is to see if it still pressurises when running on petrol. An internal leak in the LPG reducer can allow LPG into the coolant circuit and pressurise it. Not only that, but it will also fail a combustion gas check as it will detect LPG, a hydrocarbon, as combustion gases.
However, orange stained plugs does suggest coolant getting into the combustion chambers. If it is cylinders at the ends of the heads (cylinders 1, 2, 7 and 8) then it could be a leak from the coolant passages into the cylinders through the head gaskets but if it is in central cylinders, it can't be as there are no coolant passages next to them. I agree that slipped liners seem more common in the US than here, and the BS from the likes of RPi make it seem far more common than it actually is, but it only takes one serious overheat to cause a leak. The liners don't necessarily slip, when they do you can hear them moving up and down with the piston, but a slight weep between the liner and block will cause it. While it isn't a permanent fix, Water Glass will cure that and keep you going for another couple of years. Plenty of time to source another engine. I bought one for another owner from East Coast Range Rovers, a low mileage '98 4.6, for around £500 including delivery. That came complete with the engine wiring loom so just needed plugging in once fitted. The only difference, as it was going in a '97, was the plugs for the lambda sensors were different so had to be changed.
Hmm, my daughter has a Toyota and there's a number of jobs I've got to do on that now mine is back together.....
If it is over pressurising that will put extra strain on any weak points. It will pressurise with thermal expansion but, without anywhere for the pressure to escape, then once cold there should be no more pressure in there. If you have leaks around a liner or two, that will make the plugs go orange and you have two options, top hat liners or water glass (Sodium Silicate, the active ingredient in Steel Seal).
Water in the footwells is usually rainwater leaking in either through the pollen filter housings or through the screw holes where the plastic plenum is attached to the bulkhead. Take the screws out, lift it up a bit so you can squirt some RTV under the plenum and refit it with new screws. A leak into the boot is either through the rear light gaskets or the tailgate seal.
After a delay of a day I'm finishing off putting my car back together after changing the head gaskets. Noticed that the breather hose on the RH rocker cover to plenum was slightly split (or it was probably weak and split when I pulled it off). Cheap enough from Island 4x4 (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rocker-cover-breather-pipe-plenium-llh500090-err5038-p-5924.html) at under £2 but with postage that would probably put it up to nearer a tenner. Figured I may as well get one from LR as I would be able to order it from my local main agent and pick it up the next day, so checked their site. In stock and available, no problem, then I saw the price https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/llh500090-hose-assembly-breather.html?code=60977 for a 6 inch long pipe?????
Probably. As the seats are manual there's no motors under there so that gives a bit more space. The seat is height adjustable with a lever at the side and I have it quite high so that gives me a bit more space too.
On other matters, decided to have both heads off so now they are off, they've been dropped off to be skimmed and should be ready to pick up lunchtime tomorrow. LH head gasket (and head) was fine but there were some marks on the RH one where the fire rings sit even after I'd cleaned it up with 800 grit so figured that for £35 a head I may as well get them done. Next day delivery on the gaskets turned out to not be next day but the day after so I couldn't start putting it back together anyway. RH exhaust manifold put up a fight so decided to take the head off with it still attached which makes it a bit awkward (but not as awkward as getting to that lower right manifold bolt!) as it is heavier and not balanced.
Yes, ignition needs to be on for all systems except the BeCM where it needs to be off. It's usually the HEVAC that puts up a bit of a fight connecting, EAS is usually OK. Make sure the OBD socket isn't corroded. EAS uses pins 11 and 12 which aren't used by any of the other systems.
All 4 lights means it has detected a fault. With the Nanocom, go into EAS, go to Faults, read what the faults are saying then click on clear faults and come back out of it. That will reset the fault so it should start working normally again. Once you know what caused the fault, then it can be investigated.
You were lucky with that Nigel. I went through 3 front number plates in a year on one of my company vehicles due to pheasants that didn't know the green cross code. Although I've just realised the French plates are aluminium so a bit stronger than our plastic ones.
As for what have you done today, it's more a case of what am I about to do. Noticed a ticking noise under acceleration a couple of days ago. Initially thought it was a cracked RH exhaust manifold so been outside this morning and pulled the heatshield away from it (an advantage of only putting 3 bolts in to hold it in place last time it was off). No sign of any cracks in the manifold but by using a bit of tube to identify where it is going chuff, chuff, chuff from and pulling the plug lead off to confirm it, number 4 is blowing out the side of the block from the head gasket. Replacement gasket, valley gasket and seals ordered on next day delivery so as soon as I've had some lunch, I'll be out there pulling the RH cylinder head off.
That's good news anyway but they don't normally just die, something must have killed it. What's the EAS problem?
leolito wrote:
Wow that sub idea is slick! Saves space and tidies up the entire setup! Me like! Compliments!
I've got a very similar sub only mine sits on top of the BeCM under the driver's seat......
Dirty bulbholder? Dodgy connection to the cluster (assuming rear fog light)?