It lives again! Despite the label on the front cover saying 28/5/24 Next Day, it didn't turn up until Friday afternoon but I was out allday Friday so didn't get chance to do much. Fitted the new oil pump, another front oil seal (courtesy of a quick run over to V8Developments and blag one from their stock) and cam sensor in it and that was it. Had to go out today too but was back by about 2pm so got stuck into it. Front cover on, water pump on, sump on, oil filter filled with oil and fitted, filled the oil pump by pumping oil in through the side cooler hose hole then fitted the hose and filled the sump. Resisted the temptation to fire it up at that point so then it was serpentine belt on, radiator in, viscous fan on and filled the cooling system and it was time for the moment of truth.
Ignition on and the oil pressure light on the dash came on, turned the key and nothing happened.... Then remembered I'd taken the starter relay out just in case I accidentally turned the key while it was in bits. Fitted that, turned it over and it fired up immediately. Oil light stayed on for about 3 seconds then went out. Let it idle for a couple of minutes then switched off. No nasty noises, no oil or coolant pouring out of anywhere I'd forgotten to connect or tighten up, all seemed fine. On a second start, as by now the oil had been circulated and all the galleries filled, the oil light went out almost instantly so I let it run up to normal operating temperature. A few air bubbles into the coolant header tank and they then stopped and a nice constant stream from the bleed hole just inside the neck.
However, it did throw up an ABS fault on the dash (when I thought I'd dealt with them) and the Nanocom says it is a faulty pressure switch. As the pump doesn't seem to run, that's probably correct but that can wait for another day.....
Putting stuff back together is always easier than taking it apart. You aren't dealing with seized bolts and sitting there working out how something comes apart, you just bolt it all together in the opposite order to how it came apart.
This https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com./shop/product/ncom07 is the one you need for the Thor. Yes, you'll get an email from them. Remember as we are no longer EU, you will be buying VAT free although may have to pay it when it arrives. There is one advantage of that when you buy an upgrade to include different vehicles (I've got GEMS, Thor and diesel options in mine), the price you pay is without VAT but as there is nothing physical to be sent by post, just an unlock code by email, there's no VAT to pay.
I know of one specialist that declares items he sends out as faulty items that have been repaired and are being returned, that way nobody pays the VAT.
The only time I've seen anyone selling one of eBay, it's been either secondhand or more expensive than direct from Blackbox.
Nanocom gets confused with which corner is faulty on the Wabco D system and doesn't report the correct one.
Front/Right (Live Value box) = Front Right (vehicle sensor)
Rear/Right (Live Value box) = Front Left (vehicle sensor)
Rear/Left (Live Value box) = Rear Right (vehicle sensor)
Front/Left (Live Value box) = Rear Left (vehicle sensor)
Although Front Right is the only one it does get correct. Try unplugging it and see if the fault is the same or if it reports 2 faulty sensors.
An update. Received all the bits I needed for the red one (now named Cherry by the other half) and started putting it together. Removed the oil pump that was in it and fitted the new one from Turners, swapped the cam sensor over and fitted a new front oil seal. Put it all in and fitted a brand new Airtex water pump I bought some time ago in case I ever needed one in a hurry even though the one that was on it seemed OK but why not. Got it almost finished and tried to connect the oil cooler hose only to find that the thread was damaged on the one that goes into the bottom and even with PTFE tape I couldn't get it to bite tight enough to be happy with it. By then it was late last Friday evening so called Dave at East Coast Range Rovers on Saturday morning and left him a message on the off-chance as he doesn't normally open on Saturdays.
Got a call from him Monday morning but he was on holiday in France for a week (school half term so away with the kids) but would send me a replacement as soon as he got back bank holiday weekend. Tuesday DHL sent me an email telling me they had it and it would be delivered on Wednesday. Wednesday came and went and now when I check the DHL tracking it says it has been delayed and will be delivered next working day. So when it will arrive is anyone's guess......
In other news, the Ascot goes to its new owner later today, so I'll be back down to only 2 P38s, even if one of them currently has bits of the front of the engine missing and is parked in a really awkward place.
Could be E10, no idea, but if the emissions are spot on, I wouldn't worry about it.
Nanocom can open individual valves, I do it all the time if I want to lift a car to get underneath without running the engine. Go to the outputs screen and you open any one of the corner valves, then scroll to the next screen and open either inlet or exhaust. So if I want to lift or lower the front of the car while working on it, on the first screen tap open front left and front right, go to the next screen and tap on open inlet or exhaust and then tap close all when it is at the height I want it. If there isn't enough air in the reservoir on the next screen you can turn the compressor on or off.
Clogged silencer would definitely do it as it wouldn't allow air out when it needs to. You can unscrew it and leave it off to test, it won't do any harm but you will find out why it is there. When it exhausts air, you'll certainly hear it.
That wouldn't explain it losing all pressure from the reservoir when you switch it on though. When changing height, it will always open the rears first then the fronts once the rear is up to height to prevent your headlights dazzling people when changing height. Quite why the Nanocom is reporting both inlet and exhaust as open at the same time though is a bit weird.
If there's no oil on the inside of the flywheel (the part closest to the engine), then the rear seal is fine. Sump and oil cooler hoses are the usual leak places on a GEMS.
Welcome Jim, looks pretty tidy. Where are you? I initially thought the US then realised you'd blanked out the front number plate and the car is RHD so suspect Scotland somewhere?
The County was a base model so came without a lot of the toys that most came with. What spec is it?
Crows foot socket, like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/US-PRO-Crowfoot-Crowsfeet-Spanner/dp/B079H3JC9G/ref=sr_1_5 (although for the engine mounts you only need a 15mm one). That allows you to get under the manifold and heatshield and undo the top nuts.
For the two top bellhousing bolts, if you remove the upper intake plenum and ignition coils, you can get at them from above with the ring end of a combination spanner.
I install domestic AC systems and they run with 0.8mm wall thickness copper tube (in 1/4 and 3/8 inch for liquid and vapour) and run at 27 bar. The regulations say I have to leak test with Nitrogen at 42 bar and that is just using 45 degree flare joints with no sealing compound just a smear of silicone oil. Any joins in pipework are supposed to be brazed but I avoid that, it's one thing brazing two bits of pipe together on a bench when doing the training course but a completely different thing on an install. Compare that with an R134a car system that only runs at a feeble 10 bar. The pipes are fixed rigidly, it is only the connections to and from the compressor that flex which is why they are hose rather than tube. You'll probably know better than me but I would have thought copper would be better at withstanding a fatigue fracture than aluminium if the pipes did flex. I can't see anything wrong with using brass, all the fittings on a domestic system are brass anyway.
When I picked up the new to me red P38 recently, the AC compressor bearing was howling like a good 'un. There was a spare in the boot so I fitted that (even though I had a spare on the shelf anyway), bunged some Nitrogen in at 10 bar and it was leaking at one of the O rings into the compressor. Domestic systems don't use O rings so it isn't something I have but my mate who does mobile AC does so he dropped around and we put new O rings on it and did another pressure test. At 10 bar it showed zero pressure drop over 30 minutes so we declared it good. So not all used compressors are worn out.
Or replace them with copper. Copper is used on domestic and industrial AC systems and it is easier to flare and braze than aluminium.
Is your car GEMS or Thor? I've got a spare GEMS compressor if it would help you.
According to Ashcrofts (https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/zf4hp22eh/), it looks like it can be fitted to a Thor.
The eBay listing shows me alternatives and this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305541630323 looks the same to me which would suggest the one you have is the larger one from a GEMS not a Thor. Definitely not a 4.0 litre GEMS one (4HP22 gearbox) as I've got one of those and it is definitely smaller..
I suppose it could be something like this? https://dormobile.co.uk/conversions-and-restorations-land-rover-classic/
It's a Classic but what the thing on the roof is I have no idea. It looks like it is something else that has been made to fit, I would have expected a camper conversion to be the same size as the roof rather than hanging over the sides.
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Recent stuff I've ordered from them has come in a couple of days. Unlike most of the other suppliers they don't send an email saying it has been dispatched, all I get is an email from the courier saying it will be delivered today. The oil pump from Turners and front cover from east coast range rovers will both be here today so I can fit the new oil pump and then just wait for the rest to arrive. As long as the bits are here by Saturday I'll have a weekend of joy putting it all back together and then it will be back to installing the LPG system.