After rising for the last few years, the percentage of EVs sold in the UK has dropped from 16.6% to 16.5% from the latest figures released a few days ago. Reasons given are the high purchase price, the introduction of road tax on them coming shortly, the shortage of charging infrastructure and the cost of charging anywhere other than at home are what are putting off private buyers. I read a review of one that was taken on a family holiday around France recently (I think it was in Autocar and was a test of a BMW X5 EV) and the costs of charging at public charging points worked out at almost the same as I would pay doing a similar trip on LPG (and a P38 isn't exactly the most economical vehicle on the road) but one part that I wasn't aware of was the reduced range when cruising at motorway speeds. The reviewer said he had been getting a range of around 230 miles when cruising at 65mph but on his return wasted so much time looking for a working charger that he drove to the ferry at Calais at the legal limit of 80mph (130kph) and was down to 10% charge after only 140 miles. Now I would probably go further on a tank of fuel if I drove at 65mph but my consumption at 75-80 is still better than I get running around town and I get to where I'm going a lot quicker on a 500 mile journey.

As for Aus, my other half works for Cummins, the truck and ship engine makers, and they have sold a large number of diesel generator sets to Aus to power EV charge points away from the cities. So instead of a car generating pollution , it is simply moved to the means of charging. They have also developed a fully functioning Hydrogen engine for trucks, as have Mercedes, so the haulage industry seem to be ignoring EV technology. We also have an increasing number of trucks running on LPG and CNG.

I'm with you, an EV for someone that only drives in the city and charges at home, makes perfect sense. My sister has one but will be moving house soon to a more rural area and is looking at changing for a hybrid as the range on her current car simply won't be sufficient. Although, as she put it, her husband has a real car so if they need to go any distance, they use that.

phazed wrote:

Would low fuel pressure give reasonable low rev/power performance and reduced higher rev power/performance?

Think about how a fuel injection system works. Depending on signals from the TPS and MAF, the ECU knows how much throttle you are giving it and how much air is flowing into the engine so that dictates how much fuel the engine needs. As the fuel pressure should be a constant that dictates how long the injectors need to open for to give the correct mixture. Lambda sensors are there to give a final check so it can fine tune the duration to keep it correct. This is the short term fuel trims. If the short term trims are constantly one way, either longer or shorter than the programmed duration, the long term trims adjust to bring the short term trims so they adjust around the default position, so sometimes going negative (shorter duration, less fuel) sometimes positive (longer duration, more fuel). What are the long term trims and, when running, what are the short term trims showing? That will tell you if it is a fuel issue or not.

With low fuel pressure, the short term trims may still be adjusting either side of zero but the long term trims will be a constant positive. As long as it isn't by a huge percentage, it is doing what it should. That is why it adjusts the trims, to account for things that aren't quite as they were when everything was new and in spec.

First thought was that the horseshoe shaped plastic bit that the cable from the inner handle has jammed at one end of the travel. That will cause it to not be possible to open the door from either inside or outside. They do tend to go stiff after a while but then I read that you'd had a new latch fitted so that wouldn't be a possibility. Unless, when the latch was fitted the cable wasn't connected properly and it has snagged. With the window fully open you should be able to see it by looking down the window and cause it to move by pulling on the inside door handle. If it doesn't move and that handle has gone floppy, then that will almost certainly confirm the problem.

Very early cars had very long leads as they ran along the back axle, later ones (from 97 MY) are shorter. They are all the same, the only differences are the lengths of the cables and the locations of the grommets. In fact, my Ascot, which being a 96, has the very long ones on the back and when one of those failed I chopped the plug off a spare front and soldered the wires to the cable from the original one.

That's because RAVE is a workshop manual that tells you how to do things, not a parts list that gives the parts numbers of the bits. The one I have for Mercedes is in two sections, WIS (Workshop Information System, the equivalent to RAVE) and EPC (Electronic Parts Catalogue the equivalent to LRCat or the genuine JLR site).

Yes they should. They show the amount of oxygen in the exhaust which varies with the mixture and will never stay constant. They will always flip flop from one extreme to the other as the ECU fine tunes the mixture. Static means they are either giving a fixed output, which they should never do, or they have failed and the ECU is putting out a failsafe fixed voltage which is what you are seeing.

Use it then, no nanny state profanity filter on this forum.....

As I pointed out to the previous admin on Rangerovers.net when he banned someone for using profanities. We own Land Rovers, we have every right to swear at times.

https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/90127/90128/7124 and click on the numbers next to each one. That will show you the part numbers.

If the O2 sensors are staying at those values and not varying between 0 and 1V, they are dead.

MAF readings are a bit high at both idle and 2,500 rpm but that shouldn't be a problem.

If the door unlocks with the fob, then it is likely the rod from the lock has come adrift. Fobs will lose sync if the battery is disconnected but it won't affect physical locking, that is purely mechanical.

Take the belt off and spin all the pulleys to see which one is rattling. If they all feel OK, fit a new belt (or fit a new belt anyway)

Warm engine yes, as when cold they will read permanently rich. Check both at idle and with some revs on.

Probably too big as I have 16" wheels but I'll have a measure up.

Bugger, Ikea don't do postal delivery and my nearest store is in Milton Keynes, over an hour each way.....

Hmm, interesting. I once made a steering wheel for a go-kart from the lid of a pressure cooker and a length of heater hose......

Can't find anything with Google but a good starting point would be to measure the shield and look for pie dishes of the right diameter.

They've also been put on wrong with no space between Range and Rover. Comparing it with David's pictures of M247 (M2 15), the bumpers have been painted and the front foglights added too. I wonder if LR Historic will be able to supply a build sheet for it so you can find out exactly what was and wasn't fitted originally?

M2 14 SDV, M2, number 14, Special Development Vehicle

The same spec as David's was then, 4.0 litre V8, manual and SE trim level.

To embed a picture it needs to be a .jpg file, so the link needs to be https://ibb.co/PjcwTGp.jpg or similar (that doesn't work though).

My photo of M751 was taken a couple of years ago at a Land Rover get together at Billing Aquadrome, Northampton. I was interested as my car is a '98 ex-Greater Manchester Police motorway patrol car.

Pete12345 wrote:

simply because I can view the flip-flop on my iPhone !!

Poser....

Agreed, the Nano is a bit slow so only refreshes about once a second but will still show the changes. If it isn't changing then the reading will stay the same but even with the slow refresh rate you'll still see changes.

Lambda sensors should flip flop between 0V and 1V, MAF should show 20kg/hr at idle rising to 61kg/hr at 2,500 rpm. Both figures plus or minus 3kg/hr.

Nanocom can do it as you've been using that for the faults so you don't need another diagnostic reader.

Welcome. For Bolt's information, there was a batch of, I believe, 50 pre-production cars built in early 1994 in every different spec that was going to be offered for sale, so 4.0 litre, 4.6 and diesel, auto and manual, base spec through to HSE and a few specials such as at least one liveried up as a police demonstrator. These were all registered with MxxxCVC numbers so are known as the CVC cars. That one is one of the very first being M246, the police liveried one was M751CVC. They were the ones that were originally shown to the press prior to the official launch and offered to deaers to get their verdict on it too.

DavidAll on here did a total restoration on M247CVC, so the very next one to be registered, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1465-cvc-update

Hopefully the vents are stuck on and someone hasn't butchered the wings. The wheels are very late Vogue SE ones too. Just a shame you have no idea which wheels it was fitted with originally to put it back to standard as the CVC cars were fitted with the various ones that were available at the time.