A few pics to help with the decision.....
I've not seen it in the flesh yet, and I'm told the interior has a bit of mildew (but so did the red one I bought a while ago and that cleaned up nicely) but at least it isn't a Classic or Discovery so shouldn't be rotten.
Yes, the press remote works but assumes the fob is synced so if it isn't, it does nothing.
Another thought, you can only sync the fobs when the immobiliser is off, so if you are still getting engine immobilised, you won't be able to do it.
Mistyped a bit in that post, so have just edited it. Make sure you follow the current version.
Keys may need to be synced. To do that all doors (and tailgate) must be closed and ignition key not shown as being in. Put a key in the driver's door lock and turn to lock, hold it there and while holding it, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED starts to flash faster, release the button on the fob and turn the key back to centre. Then do the same only turning to unlock, hold, press and hold the unlock button on the fob, release, and turn the key back to centre. Fob should then be synced.
Hospitals can be a problem as they often have lots of RF floating about from other stuff. In that case, use one key to turn in the lock and use the other fob but held as close as you can get it to the receiver aerial etched into the right hand rear window, so doing it at arms length. Then swap the keys over and do the same. That way you should be able to sync both fobs.
Gearchange is mechanical by a cable, so it will still go into Neutral without the engine running. The problem with towing an auto is that the oil pump for the gearbox is behind the torque converter and driven by the engine. So by towing it without the engine running for any distance, there's no lubrication to the gearbox so it will destroy it.
If it does need to be towed, put the fuse in position 11, then turn the ignition on to make it do something. You should get a message on the dash saying Transfer Neutral and you can then turn the ignition off again.
The reason for the Ignition Key In message is due to the microswitch in the bottom of the key barrel getting gummed up, so a squirt of brake cleaner to flush it out followed by either nothing or lock lubricant and working the key in and out a few times should sort that. You'll know if it is working as you will hear a clunk from the steering lock when you pull the key out and the centre of the barrel will pop out a couple of millimetres.
What has happened is that it won't let you lock it with the key in the ignition so you don't lock the keys in the car, hence having to use the key to manually lock it. When you unlocked it, for some reason it hasn't turned the immobiliser off so you have the situation you are in now.
Assuming you know the EKA, you can enter that with the Nanocom. Plug it in and with the ignition OFF, go into BeCM - Utilities (the last menu) - Disarm and type in your EKA, hit the Disarm button and all the doors will unlock and the immobiliser will be turned off. Start the engine to confirm.
You may need to sync the fobs again but shouldn't need to, they should start to work again.
If the worst case happens and you need to get it towed, there's no need to disconnect propshafts. Go to the fusebox on the BeCM under the drivers seat and put a 10A fuse into position 11 (far right on the top row) which will put the transfer case into neutral so will disconnect the propshafts for you electrically. This is only needed if it is going to be towed with some or all wheels on the road, if it is just going to be towed onto a flatbed recovery truck, there's no need to do this, just put it in Neutral.
Yes, crowbar to get the crossmember off (with a jack under the transfer case) and lump hammer to put it back. The only problem might be having to drill out and re-tap (M10) the threads when manifold to downpipe studs shear off.
RedP38 wrote:
the busy life of pensioner!!!!
Tell me about it. I've been retired almost 5 years now and wonder how I ever got time to go to work. A pair of P38's and a 4.3 litre V6 boat to look after, daughter's car, son-in-law's car, wife's car and now step daughter has just bought a little Toyota Aygo that needs a few jobs doing on it. When I'm not installing air conditioning heat pump systems that I started doing after retiring.
My very smart other half came over to state " well the exhaust doesn't stink of petrol today".
That's a good sign. Whatever the problem was, you seem to have fixed it. Which is always a worry as you don't know what you did to fix it and still won't know what it was you did that fixed it.
Yes, the fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds when the ignition is first turned on to put some pressure into the fuel rail and then runs during cranking and once the engine starts.
MAF sensor not only deals with fuelling but also has control over gearchanges and kickdown. So that is another thing that might be suspect even though the reported airflow at 21.59 is about right at idle. It should be 20 +-3 rising to 60 +-3 at 2,500 rpm. If it is reading wrong at higher revs, that will cause gearchanges to not happen when they should.
Last thing first, it's a well known bug with the Nanocom that it often reports the battery voltage at 16V when it isn't, so that can be ignored.
Pre-cat sensors should flip flop between 0V and 5V, 0V showing rich, 5V showing lean, so they are both suggesting a rich mixture.
Fuel temperature of -255 suggests the sensor is open circuit. To check if it is a sensor or wiring problem, with a 1kOhm resistor in place of the sensor, you should see a temperature of around 40 degrees C being reported. The fault code appears when the fuel temperature and the coolant temperature are so far apart that one or other is obviously incorrect. However, the main function of the sensor is to richen the mixture on a hot start to compensate for the fuel vaporising in the rail and shouldn't have any affect if it thinks the fuel is really cold.
However, one thing you haven't checked and could well point towards the cause of the problem, is the fuel pressure. There is a Schrader valve on the RH side of the fuel rail (above cylinders 4 and 6) so you can check it there, it should be 34-37 psi (use a tyre pressure gauge if you have nothing else, just make sure you blow the fuel out of it before checking your tyre pressures). The GEMS has a fuel pressure regulator on the rear of the fuel rail (hiding under the throttle linkage) with a reference pipe to the intake manifold. Two possibilities come to mind, one is that the fuel return pipe is blocked so excess fuel can't be returned to the fuel tank which would show up as high fuel pressure. The other is that the diaphragm in the pressure regulator is split so fuel in being injected into the intake manifold. In that case the pressure will be correct but the engine will be running rich, particularly at idle. Disconnect the pipe that goes from the pressure regulator to the intake and start the engine. If fuel comes out of the pipe, then that is your problem.
mad-as is correct. Assuming you are talking about the outer bearings, as in the wheel bearings in the hub, they are sealed units and there is an oil seal on the halfshaft to keep the axle oil in the axle and away from the outer bearings. When taking the hubs and halfshafts out to change the diff, it is a good idea to replace those axle seals anyway.
The only difference between front and rear is the fronts have a CV joint and the rears don't, just a rigid half shaft. That's also why the old fashioned way of checking for a wheel bearing failure by trying to wobble the wheel is pointless unless you can wobble it enough the bend the halfshaft!
A good hint although a P38 is very rare in a breakers yard here, they are all bought by the specialist breakers to be stripped and the parts sold off on eBay.... I was wondering if simply giving the Nanocom a 12V supply through its power socket would be enough, but thinking about it, I suspect the BeCM would need some power if it was to be interrogated.
I work on the principle that it will be knackered and rebuild anyway. If, when I test it, it isn't knackered, that's a bonus. I have 4 pressure gauges on short lengths of pipe that I can put in the 4 corner outputs, a short length of 8mm pipe to link the in and out that would go to the dryer and then put pressure in the port that would come from the reservoir. That way I can pressurise a valve block, open the inlet valve and the 4 corners in turn by putting 12V onto the relevant pins in the connector (that way it also tests the driver pack) and put pressure into each gauge. Then leave it and see how long it takes for them to drop. No drop means it is good, any drops in pressure means it needs a rebuild.
I drove to south London in mine (and paid the bloody ULEZ) to collect a Toyota Aygo my step daughter had bought. Dina drove mine back and reported that it wobbled about a bit, not half as much a a little lightweight Aygo did though.....
Dave, I'm well aware it is about raising an income but it is where they get their information from that intrigues me. Anything that is Euro 4 onwards will have the NOx figures shown on the V5(C), the DVLA data and the VCA website but as a P38 is Euro 2 it isn't shown. So, if Philip has said, it is based on NOx levels, where from or who have produced the figures?
I know the TfL database is often wrong. A former neighbour of mine bought one of the last Rover 75 Estates, brand new, in 2005 but had a personal plate put on it from new. In that case, DVLA issue it with a standard age related plate and transfer the personal plate onto it prior to registration so there is a previous plate to put on it when/if the personal plate is taken off. Putting that personal plate into the TfL checker and it correctly identified the car as a 2005, Rover 75, CDTi, fuel type diesel, Euro 2 but then said it was compliant which it clearly isn't. Last year the personal plate was taken off because the car was going to be sold and it was allocated the original age related plate. Put that into the TfL checker and it said it was a 2005, Rover 75, CDTi, fuel type diesel, Euro 2 so non-compliant. Make sense of that Mr Khan......
I tried them when I got the red one with a Clarion with no display but not working so I assumed it needed the code (even though it wasn't asking for one due to a dead display). The link I had for Clarion sent me to a different company so I rang them to see if they were Clarion or the Clarion employees but now under a different name. They weren't but did say they were able repair the Clarion units. The Clarion link now goes to a different website but I believe the company I spoke to were this lot, http://oem-services.co.uk/oe-repairs.
Where did you find that info from? The VCA vehicle checker (https://carfueldata.vehicle-certification-agency.gov.uk/search-new-or-used-cars.aspx) doesn't show NOx figures for either. If a 4.0 litre is that much below the threshold I would have thought a 4.6 might be slightly higher but not by a huge amount.
If it is NOx they are concerned about, a car running on LPG should be compliant too.....
If you have disabled Immobiliser, all that does is disable passive immobilisation so it doesn't set the immobiliser if you unlock the car but don't start it within 30 seconds. It will still set the immobiliser when you lock the car. If you have disabled EKA, that means you can't enter it when needed. I tried it on one of mine recently to see what affect disabling EKA had and if I locked with the fob and unlocked with the key it wouldn't accept the EKA either from the key or the Nanocom. Enabling EKA in the BeCM and it would accept it from both. The EKA disabled setting should only be disabled on a car that doesn't have an EKA programmed.
So the ideal setting is Immobiliser Disabled and EKA Enabled.
TfL's data is incorrect. According to them, a post 2000 4.0 litre P38 is ULEZ compliant but a 4.6 isn't. However, the CO2 figures for them are near identical (385 and 398 g/km) and they are both Euro 2 emissions class so neither should be compliant as a petrol car needs to be Euro 4 or higher. For the time being it is a loophole due to their data being wrong but for how long it will remain that way is anyone's guess.
What year James? The early style use a different bulb to the later ones with the clear centre, so the holder is likely to be different.