No, that's a RH door latch and isn't the same, the MG only has one microswitch in it (door ajar), it doesn't have a CDL switch so won't work in the passenger door on a P38. The LHD, LH latch https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FQJ102292PMA is a direct replacement for the drivers door latch on a pre-99 LHD car and can be used on a later one if you chop the plug off and solder your original 8 way plug onto it.
If you got it from battery megastore, it's got a 4 year warranty (see para 17 here https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/terms-and-conditions/). Charge it fully and see what it drops to after it has been left but if it drops below 10.6V it is fubar.
In theory you just replace the sensor on the board but, as you say, the brushes spring out and are a real pain to get back in. I suspect that is why the one I saw had a replacement sensor mounted using one of the screws on the outside. I've only tried to take one compressor motor apart to replace a bearing and gave up on it.
The Viair is only slightly bigger than the original (which was a Thomas pump and not Dunlop as some seem to think) so could probably be fitted if the box was slightly modified but Marty has used the vacant space next to the box. Wouldn't be an option on a LHD car but plenty of space on ours.
Have you fitted one before? Getting the motor apart can be a real pita. I've seen one, on a Classic, where the sensor was attached to the outside of the back plate of the motor and connected to the Orange and Black wires externally. It was done very neatly and almost looked like it should have been there.
This one I suspect https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermostatic-switches/2532773/?sra=pmpn, or you could go for this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264871750482 which claims to be the correct one.
Cold pump with thermal sensor showing Hot says the sensor is fubar. I'd be inclined to short the Orange and Black and run it a bit longer (while keeping a hand on it to prove it isn't getting too hot).
I've seen mention of a car that didn't want to play while sitting on the bumpstops, but once it was jacked slightly so the height sensors saw movement, it all burst into life. Jumping the relay, or turning the compressor on with the Nano, should build pressure. If you monitor the pressure switch while it is running, you'll see when it is filled (although you'll probably hear the pump starting to struggle anyway).
Raise switch and lower switch refer to the rocker switch. Nanocom takes a second or so to show a change of state so if you press Up or Down and hold it, you should see the display change from Open to Closed while you are pressing the rocker. Doesn't explain why the pump isn't running though.
No ABS modulator, just a conventional master cylinder and servo.
It isn't a percentage, it's the number of steps (although the Nano may show it as a percentage) and it has probably reached the limit at idle. You shouldn't need to adjust the cables, they should have a small amount of slack on them when the throttle is closed. Cleaning the butterfly won't do any harm. The throttle will close off almost fully and the IACV allows air to bypass the butterfly to maintain idle. When you open the throttle very slightly, the IACV opens to raise the revs slightly at very small throttle openings. If it's never been adjusted, it will almost certainly need adjustment. It's either a small Torx or Allen key you need to adjust it.
I've spent another half day on this weird EAS behaviour on Nigellbb's car. Although the Nanocom shows all of the valves to be closed, listening to them shows that they are opening but probably not for long enough for the Nano to register the change of state. Took it out with the Nano connected and while driving it remains at the height it should be, it's only when stationary it doesn't. While sitting there with the engine running, the pump cuts in and the car rises, it overshoots the set heights, the pump switches off and it drops but overshoots again and drops lower than it should. Re-checked the calibration with my blocks and the difference side to side is 8 bits maximum so that shouldn't cause a problem (I don't think). I'm beginning to suspect the ECU as it permanently shows the doors to be closed even if they aren't (so still moves with a door, any door, open), the Nano shows the pump to be On all the time, even when it isn't, and the pressure switch is shown as open even when the pump shuts off (realised later that I hadn't checked the status of the thermal switch though). I considered swapping the ECU with mine until I realised that would involve taking the passenger seat out of both cars. It's working as it should when being driven so I've given up on that. Unless someone has any other ideas......
Nigel had mentioned that it seemed to take longer to rise up when it had been left for a long time so had dropped and the pump didn't sound right either. It's a Dunlop branded one dated 2019 so hasn't been on that long, but didn't seem to be producing much pressure, not as much as I would expect. Fortunately I'd got a spare, brand new and unused sleeve and a piston with a decent seal on it (from a pump that had burnt out it's motor). Took the top off the pump and found a lot of wear in the seal, so rebuilt it using the spare piston, brand new sleeve and a new O ring (from my box of assorted EAS bits) under the flap valve. I also found the screws holding the motor to the pump were loose too. Fitted that and while it didn't stop it rising and falling, it refilled the system much quicker and is a lot quieter too.
GEMS - Inputs - Air and Idle - Idle air control valve, this will show the number of steps open the IACV is The number when idling with a warm engine should be between 15 and 30 (closer to 30 is better). If outside of that you adjust the idle bypass screw, the one on the top of the throttle body that once had an anti-tamper cap on it.
About the only thing left that you haven't checked would be the pressure switch. If the pump needs to run it would be open circuit, closed when the system is up to pressure.
Sounds like the idle air valve is out of limits. If you have diagnostics that can show how many steps it is open at idle, you can adjust and get it within limits again.
Even though I passed my test long before the restrictions came in so I've always had B+E, I did a trailer towing course years ago when we had trailers at work which taught me a lot (like reversing an S bend with a trailer on). Some of the old codgers I've seen towing caravans make me cringe though. Their licence says they can do it but they've obviously never had any training and don't have a clue about loading and weight distribution. Virtually all of the downhill stretches on the French Autoroutes have reduced speed limits for caravans (never worked out if they apply to me too with a car transporter or plant trailer on the back...) for very good reason when you see some of them snaking even on the flat.
They can sometimes do a little dance if the height sensor settings are out of limits side to side, but it was calibrated last time it was here and they were all very close. The odd thing about this is it rises and falls when the door is open, when it should inhibit any movement and the Nano reports all valves closed.
leolito wrote:
Wow ... you really know how to spend a day lol :-)
Or 4 days.... Tuesday saw the dash and heater come out, Wednesday was replace the matrix, putting it all back in and refilling the cooling system, Thursday was fitting the new thermostat, refilling again and buggering about under the bonnet, while today was fitting the new door latch and finishing off.
The odd part about the EAS is it doesn't appear to leak anywhere. I left it at High and it stays there all night without dropping at all, it just does this little rise up while the compressor is running and drops back down to where it should be as soon as the compressor stops.
There has been some R9 marked hose that was counterfeit and wasn't even suitable for petrol, so beware of any that seems too cheap. Turbozentrum list an E85 compatible fuel hose so that will cope with E10 without any problem.