You'll find that a ring spanner will just fit over the plug on the end (or it will on a GEMS anyway), so you just thread it along the cable.

and if that don't work, Stilsons......

I agree, I'd far rather reverse a 6m car transporter trailer than a tiny little box on wheels. They seem to have a mind of their own and are virtually impossible to reverse in a straight line.

Pierre3 wrote:

Richard and mad-as, that you both so much for the extensive and very explanatory descriptions. I really appreciate the time that it has taken to type all the detail, especially Richards explanation.

No typing at at, just a copy and paste of the Nanocom documentation......

Nanocom won't just give you a better idea of what is happening, it will tell you exactly what is happening. With the engine running, go to HEVAC - Inputs - Values. Scrolling through the pages from there you can read:

· Ambient temperature (c): This reading gives the external air temperature or air entering the ventilation system.

· Aspirator temperature (c): This reading gives internal cabin temperature.

· Evaporator temperature (c): This reading gives the evaporator unit's temperature.

· Heater core temperature (c): This reading gives the engine coolant temperature where the coolant enters the heating system.

· Road speed (Km/h): This value is generated by the ABS ECU using information from its wheel rotation sensors.

· Road speed (mph): This value is generated by the ABS ECU using information from its wheel rotation sensors.

· Engine running:

· Solar sensor (w/sqm): This reading gives the effective strength of the sun as detected by the Solar Sensor mounted beside the Alarm LED on the top of the dashboard.

· Distribution motors (%): This gives the current feedback position of the motor that drives the flap controlling air distribution inside the vehicle. As the distribution buttons are pressed the flap should move to the position which gives air flow to the selected direction (feet, face, screen etc.).

· Left blend motor (%): This gives the current feedback position of the motor which drives the flap controlling amounts of hot and cold air to be blended together (effectively the temperature of the air coming out of the vents). As the requested temperature is changed by the user the flap should move.

· Right blend motor (%): This gives the current feedback position of the motor which drives the flap controlling amounts of hot and cold air to be blended together (effectively the temperature of the air coming out of the vents). As the requested temperature is changed by the user the flap should move.

· Left blower return: This is the feedback value returned back to the Hevac ECU from the left blower motor, used by the ECU to determine the actual voltage at the motor. This reading value also allows the Hevac ECU to detect Blower motor faults.

· Right blower return: This is the feedback value returned back to the Hevac ECU from the right blower motor, used by the ECU to determine the actual voltage at the motor reading. This value also allows the Hevac ECU to detect Blower motor faults.

· Air conditioning grant: When the A/C button is pressed an active low signal is output to the engine management ECU (The Request). This then looks at factors like engine temperature, load, current acceleration etc. and according to when these conditions allow, grant Air conditioning. This involves it engaging the clutch to drive the Air Conditioning pump, altering its internal fuelling to compensate for the load imposed by the pump, managing along with the Hevac the Condenser fans, and also telling the Hevac that Air Conditioning has been granted.

So by looking at the feedback values for the 3 blend motors, you can see that as you change the airflow direction from the HEVAC, the number in that box should change. The same when you look at the feedback from the two temperature blend motors. If you change the temperature from Lo to Hi, you'll see the number in the box change from 0 (or near to 0), up to 100. If the feedback number doesn't change when you cause an individual blend motor to move, either the motor is dead (not that common), it has stalled due to stiff flaps (also not that common in the UK (and nearby) climate, much more common in hotter areas) or the feedback pot has died so not giving an output (most common in my experience).

The same goes for the blowers, you can adjust the blower speed and watch the feedback figure change.

By looking at the reported temperatures from the various other sensors, you can also see if they are giving sensible readings or not as that can also cause problems.

I've found the usual problem with blend motors is the feedback pot goes open circuit. Sometime a squirt of contact cleaner sorts them but not always. There's so much reduction gearing in them that the flaps have to be really stiff to stall the motors.

Sounds like this is the Irish taking advantage of the situation rather than anything else. If I send anything to the US, unless the value exceeds $500 there is no duty or taxes to be paid at the far end. Sending stuff to France it appears that if under £120 there is nothing to pay either.

Your way round it would be to get it shipped to a UK address and then get someone to send it over marked as a gift with negligible value. Just the same as when you order stuff on eBay from China where it arrives with a customs declaration showing a value of $1, irrespective of what it is.

Very similar to the set I have, invaluable at times.

They should both be in the same area, one either side of the bellhousing where it joins the gearbox. Or just follow the cable....

+1.....

I drove to Strasbourg and back this weekend just gone and went via Belgium and Luxembourg rather than using the A26 in France. About 10 miles further and 10 minutes longer but LPG on the French motorways is 0.99-1.04 Euros a litre (plus motorway tolls) compared with 0.75 in Belgium and 0.72 in Luxembourg (and no motorway tolls). Cost almost as much in bloody Covid tests as it did in fuel!

As you don't have any downstream sensors (unless you have an imported US spec car as they are the only ones fitted with downstream sensors), what you are seeing there is a simulated reading from the ECU. I suspect what it is doing with the one faulty upstream sensor is it has noticed it isn't working so has pinned it at normal all the time.

Genuine LR will be Bosch in an LR box......

Can't find the correct one on the NTK website, it shows one but the part number cross references to AMR6244, which is the correct one for a '98 GEMS and not a Thor.

I've got a lambda heater fault on one of my sensors but I'm getting a P1187 code. My list shows that to be short circuit on the heater yet the Nanocom says it is open circuit. Mine is GEMS so has the 5-0V sensors but a Thor should have 0-1V sensors. On mine, one lambda sensor switches between 0 and 5V as it should while the other stays pinned at 5.04V signifying a lean mixture so the trims go constantly rich. However, as I run a completely stand alone LPG system and hardly ever run on petrol, it doesn't matter, it just runs a bit rich on the odd occasions I do need to run on petrol.

With your sensors, you should never see 4V, are you sure it isn't showing 0.4V? The working one should switch between 0 and 1V roughly every 1-2 seconds. If it is taking longer than that to switch it is a least getting a bit tired. I'd go for either genuine Bosch or NTK sensors.

I replaced mine when I first got the car in 2010 with genuine Land Rover ones. Whenever I've replaced them on other cars since I've also only ever used genuine ones them and never had any problems. Considering they are only 3 quid each, it isn't worth saving a few pence and having to do them again in a short time. Best bet is to get them from an LR main dealer otherwise postage will be more than the parts. Part number is STC3262.

EU customers should be treated the same as non-EU but outside the UK but the problems at the beginning of the year meant nobody (not even HMRC when I phoned them back in February with a query) knew what they were supposed to do. So you had suppliers charging VAT on EU purchases, couriers charging a fortune for brokerage fees and then charging VAT again. The system was simplified and clarified around June and it should now be working as it should. Purchases below a certain net value (£120 in the case of Auto Electric Supplies so I assume the same with others) shouldn't attract any duty at all although the hide sent from Martrim was £160 and there was still nothing to pay when it arrived in France. A lot cheaper than me bunging it in the back of the car and driving over with it. I've been asked to take a P38 auto gearbox to Spain so that should be interesting.

3 in total, one on each side for the temperature and another on the RH side (easily seen with the instrument cluster out) for the air direction.

See https://web.archive.org/web/20180509124955/http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html although that makes it look more difficult than it is. No need to remove the ducting, all you need is a right angle screwdriver.

It's got a lot better now the rules have become clearer and people now understand them. One company I use has this on their website:

DELIVERY TO THE EU: For private individuals with an order value of less than £120 net, no customs or import tax will be charged and the order will be delivered directly to your door. (IOSS)

I ordered a full hide from Martrim to be delivered to an address in France, no VAT was charged here and none was charged at the receiving end either.

They certainly are, but that is for genuine LR. GEMS isn't as picky as the later Thor, so decent make aftermarket are fine. I've got a genuine one on my car and an aftermarket on the Ascot and both give near identical readings. There's these https://www.lrdirect.com/err5595-air-flow-meter, take your pick. Although Island don't seem that impressed with the Bearmach ones https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/mass-airflow-sensor-gems-9498-bearmach-err5595-sold-with-warranty-p-5262.html

That isn't good. If it thinks that amount of air is going in, it'll be richening the mixture to keep the air/fuel ratio correct. I suspect the lambda sensors were showing nearer 0V more often than 5V too. You'll need to reset the adaptive values when you change the MAF as it will have adjusted the fuel trims way off to compensate.

12.6-12.8 is normal for a fully charged battery that has been left to stand, whereas 14.6 would be the maximum voltage as you take a charger off it.

Nano is all you need. You can look at the airflow from the MAF under GEMS - Inputs - Air and Idle - Current airflow. It should be around 20 at idle, rising to around 60 at 2,500 rpm.

You can also look at the lambda sensors under GEMS - Inputs - Fuelling - Pre-cat O2 sensor which will show a voltage varying between 0 and 5V. 0v being rich and 5V being lean but a failed sensor will stick at 5V so the ECU will see that as lean and richen the mixture resulting in increased fuel consumption. You've got two identical pages for bank 1 and bank 2, bank 1 being the LH bank (as seen from the drivers seat) and bank 2 the RH bank.

What diagnostics do you have? You can check the airflow through the MAF and compare it with the spec in RAVE. One of my cars has a genuine while the other an aftermarket and I get the same results from both. GEMS isn't as picky as Thor. Other thing that can cause high fuel consumption is a duff lambda sensor.