When the crank position sensor starts failing it will usually cut out when it gets hot but restart once it has cooled down, it wouldn't normally restart immediately.

The wiring between the rotary coupler and the rest of the car should be there. It is on mine and that was supplied new without a radio and a steering wheel with no buttons at all. It carries the wiring for the horn on mine and also carries the signals for the cruise control too if you have that. It should appear on a Grey/Orange wire at pin 2 of the Grey connector on the back of the radio.

Standard fit radio or aftermarket? Probably an earthing problem though in either case.

Now that is what I call service. Phoned Direnza at 11:55 on Friday, sent them an email with a link to the videos at 13:16 and had a reply back from them saying they would send a replacement out straight away at 14:35. A few minutes ago a Parcel Force van pulled up outside with a brand new replacement radiator!!!

This one doesn't have Direnza embossed in the top, it is plain and came in a box showing it to be one of these https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/high-flow-alloy-radiator-range-rover-p38-4-0-4-6-v8-1994-1999. Just got to fit it now......

That's what I thought initially so put a new set of followers in it and it made no difference at all. Since then the engine has been completely rebuilt by V8 Developments and after fitting it I expected it to be silky smooth and quiet but while being silky smooth, the noise was still there which makes me think something else outside the engine itself. Since the rebuild I've only ever used 10W-60 but there's no difference between fresh oil and 10,000 mile old oil. The way it comes and goes is also a bit strange, sometimes it does sound almost like a diesel, other times you can't hear it at all. When I first started it to check for the radiator leak, it was quiet but appeared when I found the leak and shot the video then went away again afterwards. The Ascot has a similar noise but to a much lesser extent.

Is this after you have started it from cold? Could be the evaporative valve opening and dumping lots of petrol vapour into the inlet manifold.

Not the rocker shafts and sounds to be coming from lower down, no ATF leak and it's still there with the serpentine belt off, so nothing at the front. It actually sounds louder from under the car which is why I thought gearbox bearing. But, like I say, it has always done it and sometimes it's there, other times it isn't, and has never got any worse in over 200k miles.

No idea. It's done it since I've owned it and it comes and goes, sometimes noticeable other times you can't hear it. The Ascot does it but not as loud or noticeable and I've noticed some others have it to some degree. I thought is was camshaft speed so replaced the followers and it made no difference. Thought it would go away once the engine had been rebuilt but it didn't. The guys at V8 Dev listened to it and couldn't work out what it was either. I think it was you that mentioned the front bearing on the 4HP22 gearbox wears so the shaft orbits rather than rotates and I've wondering if it is that. I could forgive it as it is the original box that has now done 431,000 miles but as it was doing it when I got the car at 205k and has never got any better or worse, then maybe not.

There's a maximum size if I remember right, the image must be small.

I once hired a 7.5 tonne box van, 20 by 8 by 8 foot box on the back of a Ford Cargo chassis. Now I passed my test in 1971, so have the 7.5 tonne clause on my licence but the first thing I thought as I drove off in that thing was, who the hell thought someone who can drive a car can drive something like this? It was nothing like anything I'd ever driven before, a whole new experience.

Mind you, the change is good from my point of view as I've been looking at arranging the BE test for the other half so she can (legally) share the driving when we drive across Europe with a trailer.

Hi Archie, saw you on the dark side, so welcome to the sensible forum. You'll get a much better standard of help here than over there.

So they aren't under tension, I've never fitted the bolts at the bottom whenever I've changed a radiator, the bolt holes never seem to line up. I've seen one where someone fitted the bolts even though the holes didn't line up and it ripped the bottom off a brand new rad. I work on the principle that gravity will hold it in place and even if I manage to get the car upside down, it still won't fall out as the hoses will hold it in (and I'd have far more serious things to worry about than a loose radiator). I've not looked at it properly but it is almost certainly a pinhole in a weld so an easy fix anyway, but if they are going to send me a new one, I'll fit that and repair the old one so I have a spare in case I ever need one. I never throw anything away that can be repaired and put back into service if needed.

Not today but on Friday I put in a warranty claim. Some years ago I fitted a Direnza high capacity, all alloy radiator as it was only slightly more expensive than a decent quality standard one and I figured the extra capacity would be better when towing. For the last few weeks, on odd times when getting out of the car, I could smell coolant and I was losing about half a litre every 1,000 miles. It never dropped any coolant on the floor, looked completely dry from underneath and there was no damp carpet or smell inside the car which would have pointed to heater core O rings (replaced when I first got the car 12 years ago). Then on Thursday I called in at Wickes to get a few more bits for a house I'm working on and the other half stopped at the front of the car and said, you've got a leak. There was a puddle of coolant under the front left of the car. A quick look from underneath and it appeared to be coming from the radiator somewhere at the top near where the top hose connected. All dry around the hose but dribbling down the radiator. Took a photo of a damp patch and contacted Direnza on Friday to make a claim under their lifetime warranty. They asked if I could email a photo or video so they could see the problem without me having to send the radiator to them. Sent them the photo but decided I needed a better look.

Pulled the grille and slam panel off and started the engine to let it get up to temperature and start to pressurise. Realised that although it was damp on the front, the leak was actually a pinhole at the back. See https://youtu.be/UyBtfezClrk and it looked even worse from the front https://youtu.be/oDyYXlUYYtA. Sent these to Direnza who replied within an hour saying they would send me a replacement straight away. Can't say fairer than that but I'm waiting now for the email to say they can't supply me with a replacement as they don't list the GEMS radiator any more. They never did do a Thor version and the only one they list these days is one for the diesel with a built in oil cooler. Just got to wait and see what happens.

Same as anything else, it's how it is when tested. I've taken imported cars for IVA test with headlights that meet UK spec, only to swap them back to the LHD spec ones after the test (took 7 hours to change the headlights on a Bentley Continental GT Speed and 5 hours to change them back!).

I assume you are talking about the accumulator? If the pump runs every time you press the brake pedal, it is getting weak but unless the warning lights come on if you do it when you are stationary, it still has some life left in it. You should be able to press the brake pedal 3 or 4 times before the pump cuts in. As for the MoT failure, that was nothing to do with the accumulator, that was the ABS kicking in as it was tested on a 2 wheel roller. It was applying the brakes on the wheels that were turning faster than the others. So with two wheels not moving and two that were, it will kick in and apply the brakes to the ones that are turning. The warning light coming on tells you the ABS is doing what it was designed to do.

Second post appeared, similar to this one, so user is now banned.

Agreed, it's coming on because the ABS is operating. Any car with permanent 4x4 (and that includes things like Audis) they MUST NOT use a two wheel rolling road brake tester. Not only can it bugger the car but also the tester. Tell the tester to do it again after he's read the testers manual https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/1-brakes. If they try to test the parking brake on a roller it will also fail as it tests one wheel at a time but as the brake is on the propshaft, the side being tested will rotate one way while the other one rotates the other way and the test shows zero braking performance.

Pump coming on more than it should means the accumulator is getting weak, but that won't cause the ABS light alone to come on, the TC light would come on too if the pressure drops too much.

Thanks for the compliment but without the Nanocom we'd never have found it. Open the door and the interior lights come on, close it, wait for the time out and they go out. That says it isn't anything to do with the door ajar switch. So you'd start looking elsewhere and find nothing. It was only when I noticed the BeCM thought the door was open when it wasn't and didn't change state when it was, that I realised something wasn't quite right. That needed the Nano to be able to see the inputs to the BeCM, even the BeCM SID doesn't mention that there is obviously two inputs triggered by the door ajar switch.

I wondered what the point was when it first appeared too. If he (she?) comes back and replies, then fair enough, if it is a spambot, then it will go away never to be seen again.

After pressure testing you vacuum the system out anyway so any moisture, air or remaining Nitrogen is sucked out anyway.

Back on topic, isn't HHO Browns gas, what you get after you have electrolysed water? The stuff that people claim you can run your car on?