Not that many manuals about and I doubt you can get an auto into top at 20mph, torque converter certainly won't be locked up at that speed. How do you intend offending the Lord Mayor of London? I want to ask why a taxi converted to run on LPG can be exempt from the ULEZ charge yet a privately owned car converted to run on LPG isn't. Wasn't a problem when it was only the very centre matching the CC zone but now it stretches out to the North and South Circular roads, I'd even cop for the charge if I called in at Beckton Sainsburys for a tankful of LPG (or wanted to visit my step daughter in Rotherhithe).....

I have......

It's down a hole where that cutaway bit is. Imperial size too just to confuse everyone although the nearest metric with a dob of grinding paste on the end usually fits well enough.

I had a pattern one on my car, admittedly it was the second one as the first one \i tried worked for about a week, and it seemed fine. Looking at the readings from the Nanocom and it was pretty close to what it should be and the car drove fine. I then noticed that the Ascot had an original one on it so decided to swap them over. Checked both with the Nano and while the original was almost spot on what the readings should be, there was no difference in the way either car ran.

It would only possibly cause a problem if you tried to run from the alternator alone without a battery. 14.8V is OK with a high Calcium battery but would boil an older style Lead Acid one dry.

The socket isn't keyed but the shaft has a flat on it that the grub screw should bear against. If it's been apart before and that wasn't realised (or was assembled wrong from new), it could have been relying solely on the grub screw to stop it spinning on the shaft. I always set the grub screw so it is protruding slightly into the hole then the assembly will only slip onto the shaft if the grub screw is lined up with the flat. It's salvageable though.

That looks buggered. Only time I've seen one like that the bearing had started breaking up. Other possibility is that it's been apart before and the crank wasn't pushed fully onto the shaft so it wasn't running square.

Hi Chris, glad you found your way here. Telford and not seen another P38? It was only built just down the road! Sounds like you've as much to offer to others as needing help.

I've done that with larger ones too but when there's a hydraulic press available......

Not just today but finished it today and not exactly mine but the Ascot. It had some old and well dodgy tyres on the front, a pair of Goodyears, one dated 2007 and one without a date. The steering never has felt particularly precise and it had a habit of wandering about on bumpy roads. I'd put this down to the tyres being well past their use by date. Anyway, one of them went down while it was parked up so I put my electric pump on it. Managed to achieve 20 psi and a bulge appeared in the sidewall and the air was all falling out again. So, a pair of new, well part worn but only a couple of years old, tyres were fitted. I expected this to improve the steering but it actually had the opposite effect and it required quite a bit of concentration to keep it in a straight line.

So a bit more investigation was needed. With me under the front and Dina rocking the steering there was no slack in any of the steering ball joints. What there was though was movement in the panhard rod bushes so the axle was actually moving from side to side relative to the body. That would explain it then. Ordered some new bushes and bunged them in the freezer and took the panhard rod off. The old bushes were really soft and perished nicely but no matter how hard I tried with a couple of sockets and a big hammer, there was no way they were coming out. So bunged it in the boot of mine and went to see a mate with a workshop equipped with a 20 tonne hydraulic press. They were tight and took over 8 tonnes on them before starting to move with an almighty crack. Old ones out, cleaned up the hole and the new, still freezing, bushes pushed in no problem at all.

That was yesterday and as it was both dark and cold by the time I got home left refitting it until today. What a difference it made! Near me there a a bit of road that used to be the A1 until they built a new 6 lane A1(M) running parallel with it. As it only gets used for local traffic, it isn't in the best of condition but I was able to drive along there at a steady 70 mph without it feeling like it was going to throw me into the nearest ditch if I hit a bump.

Just got to sort out the permanent ABS and Traction failure, the HEVAC with the book showing and probably a few more things I'll notice after I've done them.......

Yes, you can change the number that you get when you decode the lockset bar code. Your problem is going to be identifying what code the key is sending, unless it is the original key and you have the info from Land Rover. Was it Turner Engineering or Turner Diagnostics as they are two completely different companies. Turner Engineering supply top hatted engines while Turner Diagnostics are another of those companies that claim to be the experts but there's been a couple of not very favourable reviews for them, including one person that went there in person.

What's an HSK?

Do you have the one on the other side? If it originally had the Diversity radio, there will be an aerial on both sides, one doing FM only, the other doing FM and AM so there will have been two aerial cables at the head unit. If that is the case, use the other one. Although a '95 may not have had both.

I suspect you'll have difficulty trying to solder to the glass, it will conduct the heat away so you'll never get a decent connection. You could try using some of the silver impregnated epoxy used to repair broken tracks in heated rear screens. A piece of wire connected to the aerial input of the amplifier should work as well as the on-glass aerial as long as it isn't shielded from the outside world by the bodywork.

Either by buying a brand new one or getting yours unlocked by someone with the right gear. Do you mean the key numbers, i.e. key 1, 2 3, etc, or the actual lockset bar code so you can use a key originally from a different car?

I'm also retired but that means I'm not wasting 8 hours a day, 5 days a week on work so have much more time available to use the car. Compared with my usual 20-22,000 miles a year I managed 28,000 last year despite lockdowns and essential journeys only.

Changing the zebra strip is actually easier than Marty's excellent instruction make it seem. My mate Danny did it and he's as ham fisted as they come.

Pierre3 wrote:

I think P38's get tee'd off if you don't get them involved in something nearly every day.

If they see you using another vehicle I think they decide to get a hump on and develope a fault immediately. If you take them out for a little run, much like a boxer dog, then they are quite happy and they know that you do really like them !!!!

Thankfully I don't have to get involved with anything on mine every day, other than driving it. It shouldn't really get the hump if I'm using the Ascot as it knows that other than being a 4.6 HSE instead of a 4.0 litre oddball spec, 2 years older and with 250,000 miles less, permanent ABS and TC lights on and a book symbol on the HEVAC, it knows which one I prefer and would likely get offended if I started piling sheets of plasterboard and boxes of floor tiles in it.

Those mounts just support the ends so you can even use a tie wrap if you want. Doubtful it will be an MoT fail.

RTV will probably be fine for something like the tailgate rubber that you may want to take off again. For bits that you want to stick and stay stuck, a PU adhesive like Tiger Seal is your best bet. Very similar to what they stick windscreens in with.

Yes, but it does mean you need a spare blue plastic pipe that would normally go from the pump to the valve block to chop the valve block end connector off. Connect the gauge directly to the pump, power it on and see how high it can get the gauge to read. A good pump will get up to over 15 bar (over 200 psi).

I think I'm going to have to order one too. My HEVAC is fine except on very rare occasions when the weather is cold, one segment is out but comes back as soon as the interior warms up again. Now my car hasn't been used since Friday, didn't get used over Christmas and Monday and Tuesday I used the Ascot as I'm replacing a bathroom with a wet room so it was full of building type stuff. Got in mine today and half the segments on the HEVAC were missing! They eventually all came back after about 100 miles or so but it seems the answer is to just keep using the car. Give it time for things to start to fail and they do.....

Leak off pipes are simple, it is one of the few things I do know something about on the diesel. There's a lady owner that lives a few miles outside of Paris with a '99 diesel and I get called in whenever she has a problem. I dropped in while passing one day and she commented that it seems to be marking it's territory with something dripping off the front diff. I looked at it and concluded it wasn't coming from the diff but higher up and dripping down. With the plastic cover off the top of the engine even I could see it was pissing diesel out of a couple of the leak off pipes and the plug at the end on number 6 injector. I managed to plug the end with a bit of windscreen washer hose and a 13A fuse that was in my toolbox for some unknown reason. When I got back home I picked up a length of leak off hose and put it in the post to her. It must have been quite amusing for anyone watching as she is about 5 feet tall and admitted that she'd had to use a stepladder to get up there and had ended up laying on top of the engine to replace the pipes. If she can do it, anyone can.....