You can get the cheapo Chinese ones on eBay but they aren't that good so the circuit board can move around inside making them intermittent. Your best bet would be to send it to Jon and get it fully refurbished, see https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402718362924
It'll probably only need a light tap. There is one tooth on the reluctor ring that is taller than all the others so that one pushes the sensor out to give the correct air gap. At one of the Summer Camps we had a Marty's workshop, one of the guys had the ABS light on when we drove to the hotel. Nanocom said it was one of the front sensors so put the steering on full lock, got underneath and tapped it with the end of a wheelbrace, ABS then working perfectly.
Simplest fix of them all, hit the ABS sensor with a mallet to knock it in further.
Batteries are on the way out now anyway, Hydrogen fuel cell is the way to go. https://www.toyota.co.uk/new-cars/new-mirai/meet-mirai#1. It was Toyota that started it all with the Prius so why not?
Plus the fact that an ICE can be run on Hydrogen too so it's a dual purpose fuel.
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Same with UK unless the trailer has LED bulbs without resistors fitted as they don't draw enough current for it to know you have a trailer plugged in.
All that will do is increase the length of time it takes to change over. Parallel is only really needed if the heater system closes off the flow when you don't want heat. I was checking something else on mine with the Nanocom earlier today and for a coolant temperature of 83 C the heater matrix temperature was at 76 C, so that's 7 degrees being lost through the vaporiser.
My local Timsons didn't have the blank in stock but ordered a couple in and cut me a spare key. If I was to ever lose my fob then having a spare key at home wouldn't be a lot of good to me if I was miles from home so it's carefully waterproofed and secreted under the car. Even my MoT tester didn't spot it when it was up on the ramp but I know where it is.....
I think that's the new standard Euro 13 pin (where only 12 are used, hence 12N), original UK socket was a 7 pin which I assume is the same as in Europe (as I once bought a trailer in France and the plug fitted my car and all the lights worked). The US use a really weird 4 pin thing that isn't compatible with anything else due to them using the same bulb for stop lights and indicators.
One thing to bear in mind if you have a problem with the fob. If the car was locked with the fob and unlocked with the key, from then on every time you unlock the car you will need to enter the EKA to turn the immobiliser off (assuming you have an EKA programmed) until it is next unlocked with the fob. However, if the EKA is entered with a Nanocom then you can lock and unlock with the key and the immobiliser will be turned off. Quite how it works on a car with no EKA programmed I've no idea but you can check it easily enough. Lock it with the fob then unlock with the key. If it is still immobilised you have a problem until you next unlock with the fob. The key blade is a BMW blank and you should be able to get a spare cut easily enough.
There's always the guy in Wales that can supply a non-original keyfob.
They are TE Connectivity connectors, RS part number 531-4540 (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/5314540/) or 531-4607 for the 4 way. I can't remember which one fits into the plug that is there (one is for the plug, the other for the socket and the pics on the RS site should tell you). So for the other one (8 way but with only 7 ways used) you would need 362-9064 or 362-9187. You'll also need the connectors to go into the housings but they only come in packs of 50, part numbers 712-1911 or 712-1921.
The one on the RH side gives you the standard 7 wires for a 7 way trailer socket, whereas the 4 way one on the LH side gives the additional ones used if you have dual sockets or the modern 12 way socket. That one has a permanent live, ignition switched live, reversing light feed and ground.
Yes it should be. I've had an OMVL R90E, BRC AT90 and eGas reducers all plumbed in series and no restriction to the flow on any. Maybe something is stuck inside it?
Not that I know of, unless there's any adjustment at the lever end. There definitely isn't at the latch end.
That TSB updates the system to that used on the Thor where instead of the HEVAC driving the clutch directly, it powers a relay which switches battery voltage to the clutch. It needs the big resistor as the early HEVAC will detect if insufficient current is being drawn (the amount needed by the relay compared with the amount needed by the clutch) so will assume the pressure switch is open due to a lack of refrigerant and not try to operate the clutch again.
I always start the engine first before trying to connect to the HEVAC and it will often come up with a can't connect error but if I back out of it and try again it almost always connects the second time. You should be getting 12V out of the HEVAC when it tries to engage the compressor clutch but it is 12V and not full battery voltage so I suspect there is a regulator in there (or the volt drop through whatever is doing the switching drops it a touch). Check at the multiway behind the RH kick panel and see if you are getting a voltage there. Also have a look at the readings from the sensors, someone on .net found that he had an open circuit evaporator temp sensor which meant the HEVAC wasn't trying to engage the compressor as it thought the evaporator was cold enough already.
If the tracking (toe in/out) needs adjustment, they'll chirp or if the VC is starting to seize they will too, otherwise they shouldn't.
Long levers on the two outputs.
From the Ashcroft Transmissions website:
Viscous unit - rolling resistance Bench check NOTE: Testing should be carried out in an ambient of 20 deg C.
1) Secure the output shaft ...
2) Apply a clockwise torque of 27 Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut. If no resistance to turn is felt, unit requires replacing.
3) If resistance to turn is felt, apply a clockwise torque of 20Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut for 1 minute, this should result in a rotation of approximately 25 deg - 30 deg. If no rotation or a greater force is required, unit requires replacing.
27 Nm = 20 lbf-ft 20 Nm = 15 lbf-ft
A new one comes with a piece of tape on it holding it centred. If you take one out you are supposed to do it with the wheel centred then put a bit of tape on it so it can't be rotated while the wheel is off. Problem with ones from a breaker is that they often don't bother so you've no idea if it is centred or not.
Are you centralising them correctly? I've never known one fail. It's a thin ribbon cable so if it isn't centralised it will pull out at one end or the other on full lock.
Yes, 7822 is the NGK part number.