Just looked at mine and while it sounds good, it doesn't look like it could see the towball so not an option for me. Had the numberplate light surround out and that doesn't seem to be an option either. If I mounted the camera at the back so it doesn't get in the way of my fingers when I open the tailgate, the wide angle lens on the camera will see both sides of the opening making it a kind of widescreen image with very little rearward visibility. Thought about mounting it to one side in the bit of plastic between the hand hold and one of the numberplate lights but there's a bit of steel between inner and outer skins that would get in the way. Options seem to be partially filling the hand hold so the camera has a better field of view but is unlikely to be adjustable so the angle it points down at will be fixed, cutting a hole in the steel to one side of the number plate light panel so it is offset to one side but looking downwards (again, adjustment might not be easy and I don't like the idea of cutting a hole only to find it isn't ideal for one reason or another), mounting it above the numberplate as per the surround that Brian linked to (but it's ugly) or living with it where it is.
The strip on the front edge of the dash is rubber and is just a flexible flap to fill in the gap. When I had my screen changed the guy used a cheesewire on a pretty clever looking pulley type thing that was stuck to the outside of the windscreen on big suckers. Didn't touch the strip at all.
Odd, don't quite understand this leaving it until completed, I always fire up at the first available opportunity. Usually just to check everything is OK before I connect up the downpipes to the exhaust manifolds (because they make a lovely noise with no downpipes......).
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1877-how-to-topic
A bit of a faff but easy once you get the hang of it.
Agreed, it's an interesting option, but can it see the towball?
I wouldn't say all of them but a lot of the older diesels seem to be bought by cheapskates because of the perceived lower running costs. Consequently they don't have anything spent on anything else either.
+1 on a new battery. If it stays the same, then try speaking to Dave Ashcroft at Ashcroft Transmissions if nobody else has any ideas.
Maybe. ETM shows 3 screened wires between the nav computer and display unit which suggests to me that it is sending RGB (especially as they are coloured Red, Green and Blue) rather than composite video that you normally get from a revering camera. Not sure how you'd make it switch either....
My Garmin camera is very small so drilling a hole in the hand grip part of the numberplate light panel and mounting it behind with it peeping through a hole might be possible. Not sure how I could attach it though.
Don't appear to be any seals http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/90127/90128/7140 but what do I know.....
I don't suppose it matters. Just had a look at both mine and neither have one.
There should only be one in the RH (as looking from the drivers seat) rocker cover, not in the other one. I broke mine about 3 years ago and keep forgetting to add one to the order whenever I've ordered bits so haven't had one for quite some time. Don't think it makes much difference in all honesty.
It's here, http://new.lrcat.com/ and is an online version of the system that the main dealers use. Admittedly it's hosted in Russia, hence some descriptions in Cyrillic as well as English. There's also the official JLR one at https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/brand/key/land-rover but the pictures and descriptions aren't as good.
I've got a Garmin wireless camera wired to the reversing light feed so it displays on my sat nav when I select reverse. I fitted it to make hitching a trailer up on my own a lot easier rather than having to keep getting out of the car and having a look to see how close I'd got (I've got one bruise on teh back bumper from when I got too close....). I've mounted it on the bumper between the two holes for the trailer sockets so it is just above the OE swan neck towball. Wiring was dead easy as there's a blanking grommet beneath the LH rear light unit and a dangling plug there for twin socket electrics with a permanent live, ignition switched live reverse light feed and ground all there. However, it isn't easy to judge the distance from the trailer. It could really do with being higher up so it looks down on the towball and where the number plate lights are would be ideal but installing it neatly and wiring would be a real pain.
If you haven't pulled the rail off or the injectors out of the manifold, then no need to do anything. You'll soon know if any of the O rings are leaking as soon as you turn on the ignition so the fuel pump starts up.
Yes, model year changes took place around September/October time so when you bought your new car on 1st January you were getting this years model not last years. Mine is a 98 model (WA VIN), first registered in March 98 but built November 97.
On the chassis numbers, WA is 98 model year so GEMS, XA onwards is Thor. They go T for 96, V for 97, W for 98, X for 99, Y for 2000, they didn't use Z as it could be confused with a 2, then start with numbers so 1A is 01 and so on. The A signifies built at Solihull but as they were never built anywhere else, they will all have A before the actual serial number.
If the rail lifted off completely without having to really pull, chances are that the rings hadn't glued themselves in place so won't have torn. If they had gone hard they probably would tear so will leak and you'll need new ones but if they are still soft(ish), a bit of lube and they should be fine.
ERR7309 is correct for Thor, RTC5679 is for GEMS and EAC2414L is correct for both. I've found that the O rings are usually fine unless they get torn although I usually lift off the inlet manifold with fuel rail and injectors still attached so don't touch the O rings (unless I try lifting the manifold by the fuel rail and they pull out). Red rubber grease on them is a good idea when putting them in.
I suspect there's very little difference, the coolers are interchangeable and the fittings are almost in the same place. Probably just a slight difference in the bends so they fit neatly in the notches in the radiator surround.
Welcome, glad you got here. That isn't basic, I've got no leather, no cruise, no sunroof and no electric seats, but I have got the headlamp wash wipe and front fogs. Mine came with the options that plod thought useful when they ordered it but none of the superfluous stuff. But what is there all works. Then again, my other one has everything.....
Yours sounds like a lot these days. Well looked after for a while but when they become cheaper get bought by people that don't understand them and don't look after them. Then it can go one of two ways. It will either be bought by someone who returns it to how it should be or it gets further neglected until something serious happens and it gets scrapped.
This page http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91427/91612/7253 gives the part numbers for the hoses for a 4.0 litre. 4.6 is different as it has a larger cooler.
I think mine have reduced themselves to the bracket and a small bit of remaining heatshield. I've thought about replacing them with a bit of ally sheet but it's never got too hot even when driven at 70 mph for hours on end.
If it passed emissions on the MoT I don't believe the 7 mpg, did you zero it before setting off (press and hold the Info button) as sitting around idling will make it read really low.
+1 on centralising the steering box. There's a lug on the side of a plastic disc on the input shaft into the steering box with a matching lug cast into the body. They should be lined up when the steering is straight ahead or it will pull to one side all the time. If that is out you adjust on the drag link, if that is correct you adjust at the steering wheel.
The cheap cases are the ones that allow the circuit board to move around. It doesn't come with the little strip of metal that goes in the battery holder which is the bit that causes most problems with bad contacts.