It's not just urban-centric but London centric. Nobody needs to have a car, they can use public transport they say. If you are in London with a bus every 2 or 3 minutes and a tube station just down the road, yes you can but if.like me, you live in a village 6 miles outside a city with a bus once an hour up until 9pm, if you haven't got a car you are stuck. If you are even more rural, then what I have is probably considered practical. In rural areas a car isn't a luxury, it's a necessity.

AWR2227, see https://www.lrdirect.com/awr2227-screw

Screwfix no nonsense heavy duty degreaser and a pressure washer.

Bad connection, doesn't always make. Or the starter relay in the fusebox.

The Clarkes parts washers aren't that bad actually. We fully equipped a mates workshop in France with stuff from Machine Mart. If you have the space in your workshop, you could always install a second hand dishwasher.....

Does it go click or nothing at all?

You don't really need a sparky, just someone that can use a soldering iron. If, as I suspect, you are talking about the connectors behind the footwell kick panels, it just needs doing carefully, one wire at a time. Snip one wire at one connector, solder a short jumper wire to it, snip the matching one from the other connector, solder the jumper wire to it and then move on to the next wire.

davew wrote:

RAC say they will use tracking technology; Big Bother Is Watching You ! (sic)

Sales of GPS jammers will go through the roof then......

Gulp.... I did 28,000 miles between MoTs in the last year and that included lockdown where we were only doing essential journeys.

Make sure the casing of the radio is connected to a good earth and not relying on the one in the power plug (assuming it is using standard DIN connections). It shouldn't matter which one you use as long as it is a clean earth. Failing alternator is a possibility. I recently bought one of these https://www.veconline.co.uk/new-replacement-12-volt-lucas-type-alternator-regulator-a127im-vrf153a-138789?search=282504162073 for the original Marelli alternator, set point at 14.7 volts too.

When the crank position sensor starts failing it will usually cut out when it gets hot but restart once it has cooled down, it wouldn't normally restart immediately.

The wiring between the rotary coupler and the rest of the car should be there. It is on mine and that was supplied new without a radio and a steering wheel with no buttons at all. It carries the wiring for the horn on mine and also carries the signals for the cruise control too if you have that. It should appear on a Grey/Orange wire at pin 2 of the Grey connector on the back of the radio.

Standard fit radio or aftermarket? Probably an earthing problem though in either case.

Now that is what I call service. Phoned Direnza at 11:55 on Friday, sent them an email with a link to the videos at 13:16 and had a reply back from them saying they would send a replacement out straight away at 14:35. A few minutes ago a Parcel Force van pulled up outside with a brand new replacement radiator!!!

This one doesn't have Direnza embossed in the top, it is plain and came in a box showing it to be one of these https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/high-flow-alloy-radiator-range-rover-p38-4-0-4-6-v8-1994-1999. Just got to fit it now......

That's what I thought initially so put a new set of followers in it and it made no difference at all. Since then the engine has been completely rebuilt by V8 Developments and after fitting it I expected it to be silky smooth and quiet but while being silky smooth, the noise was still there which makes me think something else outside the engine itself. Since the rebuild I've only ever used 10W-60 but there's no difference between fresh oil and 10,000 mile old oil. The way it comes and goes is also a bit strange, sometimes it does sound almost like a diesel, other times you can't hear it at all. When I first started it to check for the radiator leak, it was quiet but appeared when I found the leak and shot the video then went away again afterwards. The Ascot has a similar noise but to a much lesser extent.

Is this after you have started it from cold? Could be the evaporative valve opening and dumping lots of petrol vapour into the inlet manifold.

Not the rocker shafts and sounds to be coming from lower down, no ATF leak and it's still there with the serpentine belt off, so nothing at the front. It actually sounds louder from under the car which is why I thought gearbox bearing. But, like I say, it has always done it and sometimes it's there, other times it isn't, and has never got any worse in over 200k miles.

No idea. It's done it since I've owned it and it comes and goes, sometimes noticeable other times you can't hear it. The Ascot does it but not as loud or noticeable and I've noticed some others have it to some degree. I thought is was camshaft speed so replaced the followers and it made no difference. Thought it would go away once the engine had been rebuilt but it didn't. The guys at V8 Dev listened to it and couldn't work out what it was either. I think it was you that mentioned the front bearing on the 4HP22 gearbox wears so the shaft orbits rather than rotates and I've wondering if it is that. I could forgive it as it is the original box that has now done 431,000 miles but as it was doing it when I got the car at 205k and has never got any better or worse, then maybe not.

There's a maximum size if I remember right, the image must be small.

I once hired a 7.5 tonne box van, 20 by 8 by 8 foot box on the back of a Ford Cargo chassis. Now I passed my test in 1971, so have the 7.5 tonne clause on my licence but the first thing I thought as I drove off in that thing was, who the hell thought someone who can drive a car can drive something like this? It was nothing like anything I'd ever driven before, a whole new experience.

Mind you, the change is good from my point of view as I've been looking at arranging the BE test for the other half so she can (legally) share the driving when we drive across Europe with a trailer.