second set heads towards plugs that are under the coolant header tank

Then goes and splits in to two

1 set of cables going under fuse box to white connector

Ok this may not help at all but here goes nothing

Breakaway cable

I shall investigate and report back

This bit here sir?

More photos to follow later Rob unless I have some on my phone already

And will re try the becm tonight.

So iv just been laid in the car. Much to an apprentices amusement with a hoodie over the gear shift. Can't see any faint glow now or when I press either key fob button

Also carrying on from last night. The check engine light does come on at ignition 2 and then go off when starting

will need to check the glow near gear shift though

checked rf and thats all plugged in

Ok this it rear of flex for button and looks like it runs straight to the fuse box

oh my said alice as she went down the P38 rabbit hole haha

Ok will see what the old kit at home has

Regarding immobilizer I am going to pull the cover under the steering wheel and trace where the cables for the magic button go to and from. I will try and take photos as best I can to help

I have seen lots of different cables on the old ebay etc.

Do we have a trusting link of which one works nicely ?

Gilbertd wrote:

Getting the starter to spin is the easy bit, but if the alarm LED is still on and the dash is telling you the engine is immobilised, then that means the engine ECU hasn't received the correct code from the BeCM so there shouldn't be any sparks or fuel. The ECU won't power itself up until it sees the code. Easy to see if it is powered, does the Check Engine light come on when the ignition is turned on? That's the usual tell tale if sync between BeCM and ECU has been lost, no Check Engine light. You can get a stand alone GEMS ECU that doesn't need to see the code but you're looking at 500 notes and I can't see anyone going to that kind of expense on an older P38. Marty is the only one that may have a clue what is going on here.

The engine immobilized code, will only appear if you turn the key to the final stage as if you were to start the engine.

If you leave the key at 2nd position, so everything is lit up and primed ready. Then press the magic silver button. That's how it fires up and you get no engine disabled message

But the led will still blink whilst the engine is running. So like you say, the immobilizer is not getting the getting signal in one way.

But if you try and use the ignition barrel to start the car, the ecu is then preventing the car to start.

I need to have a look at weekend to to see where the button is wired up to and also today will try and check the RF receiver, check that's plugged in

Regarding the EAS once the pipes are re connected and compressor refurbished.

Is there any fuses I need to check that the compressor is then powered back up and running as it should

The eas has been butchered.

All 4 corners have been out on manual inflation.

I have a refurb kit coming for the compressor and dryer plus some new hose to connect the lines back to the compressor

Thanks again. I like this outcast forum. Best thing that ever happened was you getting banned.

I will check the gearshift light and that can prove that one out.

Regarding the engine disabled message

If the system was disarmed properly. The light wouldn't be flashing

I think and I'm only guessing.

The silver button goes to the battery and an earth. Then also goes to the starter motor relay.

Do you think that when the ignition is on in full waiting. When the silver button is pressed. It fires power to the starter motor and fires the engine up. So whilst the ecu waits for the key to turn. The button jumps the starter motor

OK I will try and explain this the best I can. See where it goes or what other evidence I need to provide.

Got the key back refurbished.

Followed the synch process.

Little Red light flashed quickly on the remote. But immobiliser light stayed constant pace.

When I locked the car using the key.

The front and back lights flash. I assume to indicate its locked. It didn't do that before. So something has changed.

Put the key in the ignition and i no longer get the key code locked message.

So the problem is I believe with a previous owners tampering.

They have installed a push button start which draws power from the battery and then a spade terminal is in one of the locations where the starter motor relay should be under the bonnet.

If I was to turn the key like normal. I get engine disabled on the display. Then press remote button or enter key code flashes across.

I can turn the ignition off. Turn back on. Foot on the break. Press the magic silver button and she fires up.

Ok so I know that works.

But the immobiliser light still flashes even when the engines running. Also the remote central locking doesn't work. Even though I assume it is detecting the key due to the changes.

Will he of butchered or unplugged perhaps the RF reciever under the steering wheel to by-pass the silver start button. Or where can I start to at least problem solve getting the remote central locking to work and prove the reciever is connected etc.

I know its alot to put out in one post but there we have it.

I plus have an abs fault light and srs light up. Need to trace the faults for them. I know the eas light error is on. Can someone also confirm this is why I get the message 35mph limit only message.

Again I'm sorry for wizardry questions

Howdy.

This place is a nice find and I'm finding out more and more. I'm glad I got the invite before I lost patience over on the dark side haha