Love a good mutiny.

cheers symes.

Il give that a go buddy. Thank you

Oh don't worry this thread has taken a series of twists and turns.

I myself don't know for certain regarding a manual release

The hose coming out the top of the rocket cover on the gems near the fuel filler. Should that hose have hose clips on?

Il check the other other vacuum pipe aswell.

Thank you.

also the idle still seems a bit up and down.

Between 600 and 750 and back down again. Not irratic or violent unstable. But perhaps every 5 seconds.

I changed the idle air control valve. Just wondering what else to go for. MAF maybe ?

Found the fuel flap cable and it has been cut off. The multi plug and about an inch of cable the daughter found behind some plastic trim

So have that to play with and re do.

Oil change went nicely

Changed pollen filters which has 2 years worth of debris and leafs.

Some have managed to fall in to the fans and you can now hear them. Whats the easiest way to remove them out. Is it from the inside now ?

Brilliant thats exactly where we are at around 5.5

4.0 v8

Oil capacity

Is it roughly 6.6

Morning all

Yes it would be good to get a nanocom plugged in.

Also the message for the original key turn attempt to start the engine did ask for the EKA prior to me putting it in. I think like Rich said, that if I left it too long before jumping in and starting it. The passive immobilizer kicked in.

Possibly because I was too busy doing a victory dance in the rain because I got the led to go off and central locking to work haha

Good thinking recycle what's there just incase

Il have a look.

The button may still be attached but under the cover somewhere

Thanks Rich

I cant find the original fuel flap relay, is it worth just looking on ebay ?

I know I have the plastic clip on my watch list, oh but I do need to find the button aswell as the button that i Imagine was to the left of the steering wheel, is now just a hole.

Also is there a feature similar to my RRS, if I unlock it and don't actually open the door. It will relock itself.

Is this part of the passive feature also

Thanks Marty

The more I give the old girl a second look. Seeing what panels are off. Where the clips are broken. It all starts to add up.

For example the plastic clip is broken off for the fuel flap and relay pulled.

So I'm guessing solenoid is stuck or they had some other bone head idea

Least internally apart the the headlining. Most of the cosmetics can start being put back.

Give her a service on the weekend. She has im guessing been sat for over a year so will treat her as best I can.

Refurb the air system and then look to get the EAS reset. Still need to see if my old laptop is about.

I dont want to dig too much into the ecu if I csn trust it to work.

Also the key fob when I broke it open before sending it for repair. Only had 1 battery with the wrong number and a piece of tin foil to space it out.

The whole ordeal may of started at that very moment

Results are in my fellows

Today in a very wet and windy east Yorkshire I went out to the old girl and entered the EKA code that I recently got emailed from LR

Lights flashed and in to the car I went. First thing I noticed is the LED has stopped flashing on the dash

I get the message alarm triggered on the dash but with the horn unplugged I was none the wiser.

I put the key in and started with the silver magic button. Car still ran and no more LED.

I then turned her off and sync'd the remote central locking. This again now works and the back doors are now open

They opened with a vacuum pop so I assume have been closed for quite a while.

One of the rear passenger door cards fell off as it had been pulled off. I Assume the PO had been trying to unlock the door from the inside.

He however did not have the RR-Pub behind him.

To top off a successful lunch break I replaced the starter motor relay and got rid of the silver button feed.

Turned the key and got engine disabled message, press button. It never gave me the EKA message.

So I pressed the unlock button and she fired up with the key !!!!

Want to say thank you for all the hints and tips, where to look and what to try.

Not fully sure on how the silver starter button works, but at least the original method still does.
I cant imagine sending a bolt of power to a relay terminal with the immobilizer led still flashing would be enough to start her.

I know she is an early P38 and an old girl but at least some bits of her are starting to come back to life

Plus I have the back doors open and can start putting back the door trim front and now back also

Thanks again

I do like when I entertain a new forum. Best way to make friends i hear

I will try and go after these tips tommorow and report back as always

Hi

Yes the start Relay is missing from the fuse box, and there is a spade terminal in one of the live points. This is the wire that is fed I believe from the magic silver button some how.

I do have the EKA code now, yes landrover emailed me it back yesterday after I sent them photos of the log book.

If I pull the ecu out, will it have a part number or code to suggest it is original or as you say from another

Yes just spotted that on the photos.

I'm wondering if I put it in. It goes off due to immobiliser

Where do your plugs from underneath the header tank run to. Back to the ecu