Does anyone know the part number for the transmission pipe that runs from the reservoir down and i assume up to the cooler.

The ones im looking at both have the same description even though they are different part numbers.

I think it is ESR2904 but not 100%

Plus body work wise i need to decide how to protect the body best.

This is not a restoration project but certainly more a preservation project. So where all the lacquer has come away especially on the roof. I may just try to either re spray it or vinyl wrap it. But again do not know how good the surface under a wrap needs to be.

Top tips again,

No i didnt zero the trip so will do that and same with the lugs

The two coolers themselves look dry and the only oil drip seems to be on the transmission cooler pipe around where the clip is on the very bottom.

I followed the pipe down from the transmission reservoir and it seems to be that on. Both the actual coolers themselves are dry and no sign of a leak higher up

Assuming under the corrosion the pipe is going. So will order and replace that

is that as simple as remove the pipe, replace and then refill transmission from the lost fluid ?

Thanks for the advice gents

I will try and have a look at the box over the weekend and then can narrow down what to adjust first.

Also need to confirm wether the leak on the front is the oil cooler or the gearbox cooler as i see one is directly above the other. So will check also.

Drove back to work this morning, no smouldering smoke. So that was nice. She certainly runs better with a few miles under her belt after being sat for so long.

Just happy to be driving it to be honest.

So today the old girl got to finally stretch her legs on a test run from the lock up at work to home. Roughly 18miles. Mix of dual carriage way, 40 areas and back on to the B roads

She passed her MOT this morning, had to fix the horn and advisory on a leaky oil cooler, so that I'd also now on the shopping list.

She drove pretty well considering how long she has been sidelined.

First real experience for me driving a P38, let alone a V8 and a 4 speed.

Jobs I need to do. Throw some anti roll bar bushes and drop links on. She gets bit of a wobble on at 65.

Drives straight as an arrow. But noticed the steering wheel is pointing to 10 o clock. I'm guessing wheels been off to change the clock rotary spring behind the air bag.

She averaged about 7mpg according to the dash, temperature was between 89 and 96.

Which I'm guessing is a big range, so may need to give the cooling some tlc.

Oh and for a grand finale.... she nearly set on fire. 60 seconds from home and smoke started to come in from under the steering wheel.

Turned out to be drivers side exhaust heat shield that was more fibre glass than foil. Few burnt fingers but removed all of that and any of the damaged rubber/foam behind it.

Removed passenger side aswell as that was loose.

Advice on do I need to replace heat shields, can i replaced them ?

I am talented with a mallet

Lunch time project it is. I shall report back

So I got one of these off the magic ebay and cleared all the air bag faults.. marvellous

And the abs fault that returned was this

Thanks for that

It unlocks with the fob once I originally paired it up OK and synced the fob by holding the lock and unlock button.

Iv also had to enter the EKA code if the battery has ever got too weak and lost the settings. But that was only during long periods where I couldn't make the time to do bits.

I didn't know that regarding the BMW blade. I can get a spare cut and then touch wood I guess I can always use the EKA code

Super will get them ordered

Gilbertd wrote:

Yes, 7822 is the NGK part number.
Super. Best get them ordered then

Here's my old girl. She's getting there mechanically.

Body work will be next. One side is not so sun burnt compared to the other. Not sure what to do for best.

Have a go at re lacquer or vinyl wrap or maybe just swap the doors....

Those spark plugs have 7822 in brackets aswell. Is that also correct for the P38

Thanks again

I am literally on the edge of the humber near Immingham

Thanks for the help guys

If the ECU is not the problem with the communication then I'm happy to leave it alone.

It's obviously down to test gear then.

Time to spend some money I imagine.

Thanks again for the help

Finished clearing all the cardboard boxes out the car that made it look more like a parts shop and a dumping ground. Changed the HT leads to new ones as i couldn't tell how old the ones on it are.

Got to change the plugs but not keen with me being so heavy handed and it being an aluminum threads if I'm guessing right. Also need to buy some new plugs as well. So any recommendations for that would be helpful and might nudge me on to do it

Salutations

So as some of you may know when i got the old girl she was bit of a wreck, been standing alone for a number of years and some one had bodged and hacked away at it. Mainly down to having 1 battery and a piece of foil in the key fob which would then lead on to immobilizer issues and locked doors, ripped out interior and unplugged airbags etc.

The car was some how hacked that it would start via a button drilled in to the dash board.

The key would turn the ignition on, but then you would hold the silver button to start the engine

I found that the button was wired in to two relays in the fuse box.

I can only begin to assume the ecu has also been tampered with.

I have reversed most of this bypass ( re used the button for the fuel flap which had the button cut off also) and she now starts on the key and immobilizer is disarmed using the key fob also.

The problem has raised its head again as i have an ABS fault. Any fault code reader i have tried wont even read the fault. Also need to reset an Airbag Fault as well due to that being unplugged when i got it.

Snap-On, Solus, Cheap and cheerful blue tooth code reader, nothing even shows the faults

Now, when the garage opposite where i work plugged it in for me, it got to accessing the abs and srs parts and then it just kicked it back to the main menu. Wont even show the faults.

Would this be down to the type of test gear, or is this more problems caused by a hacked ecu.

A lot of friends i had from my D2 past said the ecu cant of been hacked like that etc etc. But then i found this video on youtube last night, which is near as damn it, the same as what someone had done to mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnSoWYzPuXA

So to cut the waffle down. Would the hacked ecu stop reading codes for the abs and srs or am i using the wrong kit ?

Is there anything i can look at regarding the ecu to see if i can reverse anything or repair anything ?

Hi Guys

Reviving this post a little bit.

Just to say thank you for all the help. I found my strange rear EAS heights and levels may of been because the air lines where in the opposite corner on the valve block.

Now this was obviously my doing as when i got the old girl she had manual inflators on all the lines and i tried to work out which one was which

Between that and re plumbing and refurbishing the valve block. I must of got them mixed up.

However whatever i did and then undid, it allowed me to play nicely with the EAS software and start leveling things up again.

She has new air springs fitted and new shocks as well. So apart from some height adjustment and calibrating. Its in a lot better place than it was

I have a few more niggles to chase out but i have put this in a new post regarding the ecu if any chaps would care to have a look

Thanks David

I will get back under and compare what's going on. I wont give up. I want to get this working properly

So both rear sensor the lead is coming out the top towars the back.

I noticed that both have three mounting holes on the sensor.

The drivers side rear which is bolted horizontally with the empty bolt hole towards the top

The passenger side which is bolted vertically on the mount has the empty mounting hole towards the back of the car.

In reality should they both be mounted the same way.

Except the lead should be towards the back on one side and pointing towards the front on the other