Would Super-lock do that?

Thanks for the measurements Chris.

I’ve been meaning to do something like that for several years now but so far other items have had higher priority.

I’m not a diesel guy but if it started instantly I wouldn’t have suspected glow plugs.

Maybe our petrol is cheap compared to yours but in British Columbia I’m paying about CAD$1100 per year (about £640) for my P38. It’s been about the same for several years. The Disco is about the same.

From 420 to 1080! Ouch.!I helped my son-in-law do this job on his Disco 2 a while back. I wish I remembered exactly the method. I know we compared the D2 and P38 manuals. The P38 manual specified the tool that you’re talking of, while the D2 manual had you take up the top to bottom difference by feel. The parts seem to be the same between the 2 vehicles. His D2 is still driving nicely.

I’m waiting for the 500,000 signature.

One thing I’ve forgotten to do a couple of times is to put the original Timer Relay back in, rather than the generic one I have in to prevent self levelling while parked. Probably not your issue but I thought I’d throw it in as a possibility.

Good to know. Unfortunately we learn our best lessons the hard way.

Out of curiosity l, does the petrol pump keep running when you’re on LPG, or is it inhibited? If it doesn’t run you’ll almost never hear it.

Richard, those bodge jobs are the worst things on older vehicles. At least my LR’s were just neglected when I got them, not bodged.

Interesting. I wonder where that myth came from and why I believed it to be true.

Didn’t the ‘99 an on come with 4 pin front diff’s?

I think all NAS cars have it programmed to 1515

I have to replace another one (only got 2 years on my last one). They “sand” our winter highways here in British Columbia with rocks! I live near the west coast, and there wasn’t a replacement to be found in Western Canada. The new one had to be ordered from Land Rover in Toronto (4000 km away). At least the insurance company pays for most of it.

I think removing each relay and spraying the contacts with a contact cleaner (I use Nutrol which also has a contact lube in it) is a good idea on these. I think if this was done every 5 years or so the fuse/relay box might last much longer.

Good news

I have a K&N air filter on my carbureted motorcycle, but I would never use it on an EFI engine. I would never be sparing enough with the oil on the filter and it would contaminate the MAF sensor. As the others have said, stick with a paper filter.

I also did as Richard did when I had mine replaced last year. I disassembled everything other than removing the wind screen. I was very happy that I did that. IIRC the man hours allowed by the insurance company was 3.5. There’s no way the installer could have taken as much care as I did with all the plastic bits. This way he had lots of time to do a nice job of the wind screen R&R.

Good to hear