What does this mean? Also ENGINE DIABLED. I tried my EKA with the door key, nothing, no lights flashing. I entered my EKA into Nanocom. It says Nanocom has instructed the BeCM to reset the alarm state, but dash still gives the same warnings. My fob lights flash when I press them, but the car doesn’t recognize anything.

On a recent trip my overspeed warning kept beeping every time I hit about 115kmh (highway speed limit 120). I never have it turned on. I kept trying to turn it off with the button on the stalk. It would say “off” and silence while I held the button, but as soon as I released it, it would continue beeping. The selected speed on my panel read 120 and I couldn’t select a higher speed. I know that I used to be able to select it up to 140kmh. I turned the vehicle off for several minutes, but it was the same. I plugged Nano in hoping to be able to disable the function, but all I got was the ability to select 100 or 120. (It was set to 120 and I certainly didn’t want the beep at a lower speed, so I left it). My Son-in-law did some Google searches and found one that said to select it to 100, so I tried that and the warning went away. That was a few weeks ago and the issue hasn’t returned. Have any of you heard of this?

I ordered a new fob from JLR and I’m trying to get my BECM ready to programme. On the Nanocom, I go BECM, Settings, Alarm…it says EKA Enabled. Then I go BECM, Utility, I get the page Odometer/reset, then it says “Disabled”, EKA then a blank square. I can go into the blank square and write a 4 digit code, which will show up in the previously blank square, but if I close and reopen the window it is a blank square again. (I’m pretty sure I need EKA working to sync my new fob). What am I doing wrong?

I think there are a couple more Canuck’s on this forum so I’m posting this for your interest. Maybe they’ve had this for a while, but it’s the first I’ve known of it. LR Direct now gives you the option to prepay Canadian import fees at checkout. It worked! No exorbitant “brokerage” fees by the Courier company on delivery, and probably a third of the price (my guess).

I’ve been trying to place an order but their site is down. Can anyone confirm that they are still open for business and the site is just temporarily down?

My 97 P38 just started cranking over in the driveway with no one in it nor any key nearby. I removed relay 16 and it stopped. I tried a different relay and it immediately started cranking again. With the relay removed, I inserted the key and cycled it to start a couple of times, put the relay back in and it seems to be back to normal.
There’s not much to this system per the wiring diagram, relay to BeCM to ignition switch to ground. It’s hard to imagine a switch failing closed, but maybe it’s possible(?). I suppose the relay could be finding another ground somewhere in the wiring, but then why would cycling the switch cure it? And I really hope the BeCM isn’t finding a ground internally.
Have any of you experienced this before or have any other ideas?

Is there a good way to undo the 2 bolts at the bottom of the radiator? The nuts just spin in their plastic housing. Maybe I need to just grind the bolt heads off?

Ram Air Housing to Inlet Manifold joint calls for Loctite 577 as a sealant. I’ve never seen this product. Is it what you guys use? Is something like UltraGrey Gasket sealer ok as a substitute? Maybe I need to order the Loctite from somewhere?

I’ve had a latch assy on order from Rimmer Bros for a few months now (on back order) due to an intermittent RF Door Unlatched warning. Today it quit locking or unlocking with the fob, and the tailgate doesn’t open. I know I need a latch, but is there a temporary work around? I’ve ordered a FQJ103240 which should be correct for my VIN and LH drive. Maybe there’s a better source for this latch?

I think I need a new Door Latch assembly. I sometimes get the above message, even when the door is closed. If I open and reclose the door, the message always goes away. I had this a couple of years ago, but I sprayed the micro switch area of the latch with contact cleaner, and the fault went away for a couple of years. Now it's back. Last time I went through Marty's latch tests, but because it's intermittent, it passes. It's probably time to replace it(?) I seem to remember that someone had an MG P/N that was identical, but cheaper. The P/N I come up with (RH door, LHD, VIN# VA35----) is FQJ103240. They're around 200GBP, so I don't want to replace it unnecessarily.

This question is about the Disco, but it's a 4.0 Bosch. I've been adding about a pint of coolant a week, and I don't drive it a lot. It has 165,000km, and as far as I can tell, the HG's have never been done, so I guessed it was time. I removed the heads, and I was hoping to see more definite evidence of bad HG's. I'll try to post photos again. Also, are #6 liner there is a slight brown streak, but liners all look intact, and slightly below flush.
https://imgur.com/ZBEWrOa

Okay, I got them out, but there must be a better way. Thin walled sockets, or other special tools? The transfer case end of the front prop shaft was especially difficult.

I think I need to replace the alternator (maybe voltage regulator). Lights steady before starting the engine, as soon as it's running, lights go noticably brighter and pulsate, seemingly faster with higher RPM. My voltmeter across the battery reads steady at 14.5V at idle and steady 14.4 with some RPM, but the pulsating is probably too fast for my meter to notice (several times a second).
It may have been doing this for months and I'm only noticing now with the winter darkness. With all the electronics I probably shouldn't let it go very long?

Fortunately it was the left latch, as I could insert a longish thin screwdriver and push the lever to release it. I bodged a fix which should work until a new cable assy get here. While I was at it, I decided to bend a coat hook to see if I could pull on the right hand latch to release it if I should ever need to. This worked, but I didn't realize the warning switch lives there and I dislodged it by accident. It's all back together now.
It will probably be good information for someone down the road to know you don't need to take anything apart to open the hood when the cable fails. A long thin screwdriver to push the left or a bent coat hook to pull the right latch, but be careful of the switch. From the front grille go through the hole where the black latch cable runs.
The above is for LH drive, but I suspect RH drive would be the same.

I stumbled on this site a few weeks ago when I was trying to search a door latch issue on .net. Since then I've read through a fair percentage of the threads here, and I'd like to join. Many of the posts seem to be from people that I've found to be most helpful at .net where I've gleaned a wealth of knowledge. I've had my P38 for 2 years now. I've had quite a few vehicles throughout my life and my P38 has been my favourite to drive both on and off road. For the first year, it was probably my least trouble free car (second only to my first year with my 1963 Series 2A, which I've had for 25 years now), but I've got most of the issues sorted now. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade so I'm not afraid of most mechanical or electrical issues, though I'm not as good with electronics. I'm not the guy with a wealth of P38 knowledge, but hopefully I can offer some helpful advice on occasion.