And to be fair to the “normal workshop”, troubleshooting can eat up a lot of man hours. Most customers don’t want to pay hundreds of dollars/pounds to figure out their issue.

Thanks for the thorough explanation Richard.

Are you talking about the Positive Crankcase Ventilation System? I don’t think there’s a good reason to delete it.

https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/87921/88144/6934
Does this help?

03 & 04 were all 4.6 IIRC.

It seems to me that even the slipping liner issue is more of an issue on the D2’s than P38’s. I don’t read much about them on the RR forums, but it seems to happen on the D2 forums I read. The story is that the P38’s got the best blocks every time while some of the D2’s ended up with less perfect ones.

As Pete indicated, the blocks don’t become porous. Apparently the last few years that LR made them they didn’t take as much care as they did during most of the years that they built them.

Also I think that virtually all the porous blocks were made into beer cans long ago.

I think the porous blocks were more of a thing on the ‘03 & ‘04 Disco 2’s. I don’t think P38’s really ever had this issue.

I’m not up on what you had apart. As Richard notes above, the O2 sensor might be duff or it might be telling you the truth. If it’s telling the truth it could be caused by various things. Seeing both sensors (I’m presuming it’s the upstream sensors) are giving you a fault it isn’t likely to be a bad injector. You could have an intake leak somewhere downstream of the MAF sensor that affects both banks.

I think 13.8 is in the correct range for an alternator.

Some pressure build up is normal. The coolant system is a closed system, unless the pressure builds above the relief cap setting (20 psi IIRC). As the coolant heats, it expands building up pressure (because the system is closed). When it cools down it will contract about the same amount and you won’t notice any pressure differential when removing the cap.

Thanks for keeping us updated. It sounds like a very strange one.

Richard that’s awesome. I’m looking forward to when your signature photo is replaced with a half million miles.

You can adjust the rod that goes from your steering box to the passenger side road wheel to make your steering wheel straight. This has no affect on toe in.

Thanks for the heads up Dave. I was considering using auto-locksmith. I had my local locksmith try to make one (from a BMW blank), but he wasn’t successful. The other reputable lock shop in my town simply said they can’t do them. I still only have one key for mine.

A lot of people like the studs. I went for new TTY bolts on both my P38 and D2 with no issues. Like you say, way cheaper.

Very difficult, if not impossible, to troubleshoot an intermittent fault when it’s working perfectly.

It’s probably a good time to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

If you got them off without too much mangling, I would reinstall them using anti-seize on the bolts. I think if they had used anti-seize from the factory they wouldn’t be such a problem to remove now.