The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
443 posts

But they should have estimated that. By the time they built P38’s it was pretty clear that quite a number of LR vehicles were still in use decades later.

Thanks Richard. That makes me feel better about using ty-wraps.

I didn’t destroy anything other than the bolts, so I could still go back to bolts, but I’m going to see how ty-wraps work.

I cut the bolts with a reciprocating saw which worked fine enough, and got the radiator out. Definitely not Land Rovers best idea to capture the nuts in a plastic bracket in a corrosive environment.

Thanks Don. I’m working on grinding them off. The original nut appears to be brass, so I’m not sure that stainless would be any better. I think I may use large ty-wraps in place of the bolts.

Is there a good way to undo the 2 bolts at the bottom of the radiator? The nuts just spin in their plastic housing. Maybe I need to just grind the bolt heads off?

Yes, left hand seat (driver’s side for me).

I’ve used the 4 pin relay in place of the timer relay for several years now. It only takes a minute to swap relays when I need to connect the Nanocom. Maybe now since I’ve sorted all the leaks, the 4 pin relay isn’t needed(?). When the weather gets cold (-10C), my rear new Dunlop Air Bags leak to the bump stops over night. When warmer they don’t leak at all.

I don’t think there’s any benefit to EAS being powered with the vehicle off. I think the designers didn’t want to have the vehicle sitting unlevel when parked so they had it wake up at regular intervals to level itself.

Thanks Craig. I just installed it last night with Loctite Grey. Very slow progress right now with my current work schedule. I just need to get it together by ski season.

Thanks for that info Richard

If this same problem was with two different cars, this is not likely your issue, but here’s what mine was like when I got it. Battery voltage a little low, I think a bit over 12V (all my numbers will be from memory 5 years ago, so not exact). The alternator itself (alt terminal straight to ground) was 14.5, but alt terminal to battery around 13. I cleaned all the wire connections, which improved it a bit but still a big voltage drop Alt to Batt. I then ran a heavy gauge wire directly from the Alt to the batt + terminal (keeping the rest of the wires as they were. I now have almost no voltage drop. According to the vehicles records, the battery was replaced about every 2 years before I got it. It’s still the same battery in it now so it must be around 7 years old. I think the alternator to starter cable must be marginally too small, but my bodge seems to work so I haven’t bothered replacing it.
Good luck with yours Henry.

Thanks for the replies. I may use the UltraGrey which should be similar to the Hylomar.

Ram Air Housing to Inlet Manifold joint calls for Loctite 577 as a sealant. I’ve never seen this product. Is it what you guys use? Is something like UltraGrey Gasket sealer ok as a substitute? Maybe I need to order the Loctite from somewhere?

I know someone on this forum has a Viair, I don’t remember who, but I think he’s really pleased with it. All of us on this forum are on the purist end of the spectrum, we all highly favour EAS, but I don’t think upgrading the compressor will get you shunned.

Good one Pierre. Maybe P38 values will look like that one day. I’m glad they’re not as I wouldn’t have gotten into them.

I think the EAS wakes up and resets itself every so often when driving, maybe every 15 or 20 minutes?

Agreed! I took apart 3 Valve Blocks to get 3 good NRV’s. It’s only a matter of time…

I’ve had my P38 for 5 years and so far the RSW (paid for version) has done everything I’ve needed. When I got the Disco, it had a few issues that needed something like a Nanocom, so I bought the Evo and have been very happy with it. The Nano is more convenient than the RSW so I have only used it since getting it.

That may be considered rusty for a P38, but by most standards very clean for a 20 year old car near the sea.