Oh wow, good news!
It will vary quite a bit with ambient temperature, and how hard you’re running the engine. If it was very cold outside the bottom of the radiator would be much cooler than when it’s hot out. With the engine running, the bottom of the radiator will always be at least a little warmer than the outside air temperature. When the engine isn’t working very hard (not generating a lot of heat), the t-stat won’t be letting much coolant flow through the engine (t-stat will only be a little open, as it’s trying to keep the engine at its set temperature) and therefore there won’t be much flow of coolant through the radiator, the ambient air flowing through the radiator will be able to extract a lot of heat from the coolant, resulting in the bottom of the radiator being only slightly warmer than the outside air temperature.
The top of the radiator will be hot after a drive, as it gets the hot coolant from the engine. The coolant flows down through the radiator, with the ambient air also flowing through the radiator fins, absorbing the heat from the coolant. This is why the bottom of the radiator ( and the bottom of the t-stat) will be considerably cooler than the top.
If I’m understanding your post correctly, your radiator and cooling system are working properly.
Isn’t that just indicating that your radiator is effectively cooling the coolant? The top is hot and the bottom is cool?
Thanks Philip
That’s all good information, both Tom and Richard. So far I’ve only ever had one fob for mine.
There is a mod that is tried and true for the Disco 2 that is now available for the Bosch P38, that puts the t-stat in the position that the RRC had, at the coolant outlet of the engine. It should be available shortly for the P38 GEMS. I am actually the Beta tester for the GEMS kit (I get no money for saying this, but i did get my kit for free for being the tester). I’ve had mine for a few months now and am really happy with it. The temps are steadier (I monitor them with an Ultragauge plugged into the OBD2), and I get rid of the plastic t-stat assembly. I’ve felt for some time that the original location of the t-stat (eg RRC location) was where it should be. The bleeding of this set up is easy, though as Richard points out, the GEMS is easy to bleed anyway.
The link for the Bosch P38 kit:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/range-rover-p38-2nd-gen-56/new-p38-thor-bosch-inline-thermostat-kit-now-available-114106/
If anyone is interested here is also a link that contains the considerable experience with the kit on the D2:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/official-extinct-inline-thermostat-mod-thread-105010/
Philip do you have a link for auto-locksmith? I haven’t been able to find it with a google search.
Thanks Richard. Patience…
Okay, I tried the wait 30 minutes deal, then retried the EKA and all is good now. I must have messed up the EKA entry before.
And Central Door Locking isn’t working, the drivers door will lock and unlock with the key, but no other door locks or unlocks. Also with the door open, I can push the lock button down on any door and slam it shut, it stays locked.
Also Nanocom says right front door super locked. It isn’t super locked as I can manually unlock and open it, but BeCM seems to think it is superlocked. (LHD vehicle).
What does this mean? Also ENGINE DIABLED. I tried my EKA with the door key, nothing, no lights flashing. I entered my EKA into Nanocom. It says Nanocom has instructed the BeCM to reset the alarm state, but dash still gives the same warnings. My fob lights flash when I press them, but the car doesn’t recognize anything.
Great, and congrats to your daughter.
My suspicion is that the new temp sensor is calibrated differently. I suppose you could confirm this by reinstalling the original sensor.
You’re right, it’s a different product. I’d still be leery. If you use it, let us know how it goes.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=780139
I think this is the same product. The VW site calls it snake oil. Personally I wouldn’t use it.
I did replace mine with (I think) Audi. I’m not sure it was a good choice. Our Canadian winters are cold and it is marginal for heat at -30C. I didn’t remove the dash, I did the mod where you cut and resplice a brace.
Is it actually possible to be in any position without any exhaust valves at least partially open?
I know nothing about the L322, but spark plugs are a cheap part, and you’re there anyway if you’re checking compression, especially as we don’t know how old they are.