Also, small exhaust leaks can sound like engine ticks, especially manifold to head attach points. I recently replaced an exhaust manifold on my Disco 2 due to it being cracked. It did have a very slight ticking sound.
I have been successful with a LH drill bit 2 or 3 times out of 100ish tries. It’s worth the try as you need to drill it for your easy out anyway.
Hi Ian. Welcome here.
Or front wheels. I agree with the two above. An out of balance drive shaft is possible but U-joints or wheel balance would be far more likely.
I was also wondering if a very soaked dryer could cause this, but it would likely also cause very slow refilling of the reservoir.
Thanks for that clarification.
You probably thought this all through, but for me the 2 reasons why I haven’t (and probably won’t?) go with any larger tyres are 1, I’m worried about the bump stops allowing the top of the tyre to rub, and 2, it seems that you can’t fit even a marginally larger tyre in the boot compartment. (With our All Wheel Drive and viscous couplings, I think it’s quite important to have the same sized spare).
I think also, perhaps for Engine ECU only, you need the key in position 2.
It’s always satisfying when it fires up and runs like a top after a big job.
Blackbox’s way of dealing seems a bit archaic, especially for a company that is computer savvy enough to figure out how to make a Nanocom. But it’s just a little slow, with emails back and forth. The unit is great, and I think Blackbox is very fair to deal with.
As Richard said, I wouldn’t worry about it. But, I’ve read that O2 sensors will slowly change to reading slightly lean over time, so they will tell the ECU to richen the mixture slightly. This could cause your pipes to be showing a little blacker than before.
As for timing chain slop, I think anytime you have the front cover off you should change the chain, unless you were just in there recently. I read somewhere that if it’s apart and the chain has over 30,000 miles on it, it should be replaced. My P38 had about 95,000 miles when I replaced mine and the power difference was noticeable.
Are you sure you can just swap sumps? I know the front cover is different, but maybe not where it bolts up to the sump. Also, the Thor sump uses more bolts at the back but again maybe you can ignore them.
Crank pulley isn’t too difficult but you need to keep the crank from spinning. I built a makeshift tool that attaches to the pulley but there are several other ways. It doesn’t sound like you need to remove the sump, but if it’s off you can jam it with a piece of wood. I believe you can also put a deep socket through a hole in the bell housing that must fit into the flex plate or perhaps the torque converter (I haven’t used these methods). There is also a method where you have your socket and breaker bar jammed against the frame while you engage the starter very briefly.
I would be very reluctant to throw the “head gasket in a bottle” in, though I have used it successfully myself on several vehicles in the past. It will also partially close the small passages in the radiator and heater matrix. If you plan to keep the vehicle a long time you will likely need to replace the radiator and matrix after you properly repair the coolant leak.
I’ve also used LR Direct many times and have been very happy with them.