Ok, I only now clued in that Frank is AI that is actually condoned by the forum owners (this shows how naive I am). I should think that this completely undermines the intent of any technical forum, in our case vehicle owners/enthusiasts who want to help each other out.
Wow! I just read the the link that Tom sent. Frankie is clearly a bot, but I’ve never seen one carry on for so long, making some sense, as long as you didn’t have much knowledge of what he was talking about.
I’m not sure about the L320, but I may someday decide to acquire a L322. I don’t often post here, but I really like this forum (I read way more than I post) and would rather stay here than go to .net.
I think the situation in Canada (at least where I live) is even worse. In the last year I have only seen 2 other P38’s, and neither of them were driving. Nor is there a breaker within a couple of hundred miles of me that’s had one in years.
Thanks for posting your findings (on both issues).
https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0Byt3ogVBq68RdFdyX1VQMS1iN00?resourcekey=0-dQYrg4NVhsSkuk1J8-IPfg&usp=sharing&pli=1
This link has quite a few LR Manuals. The one you’re looking for might be here.
Did you try roverguy.com (Will Tillery)? Lots of good used (and new) LR parts. He’s in Virginia and great to deal with.
Access mode worked great for my Mom-in-law. Unfortunately she’s beyond that now.
Oh, I see that more people answered in the meantime!
Thanks for those links Richard. Maybe it’s unblocked now, or maybe it’s blocked in the UK, but I just tried new lrcat and it is working for me.
Does it do it every time? Not LR, but we had a truck at work that used to do that. It was the ignition switch. Really, we need quite a bit more information to get an idea of what’s going on.
Nothing wrong with a litre between oil changes.
Thanks for letting us know the fix. I’m glad you got it sorted.
I don’t think you can buy the NRV’s. I needed to disassemble 3 valve blocks to find 3 good NRV’s to assemble one valve block assembly.
Have you tried spraying some lube into the barrel?
I think the reason for inhibiting EAS when the brakes are on is because at certain time intervals while driving, the EAS will open the valves to re-level the car. If it tries to do this during hard braking it could cause the car to bottom out the front suspension.
Oooh, that’s ugly looking ATF. I have also made the mistake of overfilling my gearbox, due to not understanding the small volume difference between the Refill and Full marks on the dipstick.
If I’m understanding your question, you probably won’t get the bolts out that way as they are generally not threaded the whole way, but have an unthreaded shank portion (for the bearing surface).
When Marty gets that sorted, there will be a number of us asking for a fob.
Good to hear. Thanks for letting us know the fix.