As for timing chain slop, I think anytime you have the front cover off you should change the chain, unless you were just in there recently. I read somewhere that if it’s apart and the chain has over 30,000 miles on it, it should be replaced. My P38 had about 95,000 miles when I replaced mine and the power difference was noticeable.
Are you sure you can just swap sumps? I know the front cover is different, but maybe not where it bolts up to the sump. Also, the Thor sump uses more bolts at the back but again maybe you can ignore them.
Crank pulley isn’t too difficult but you need to keep the crank from spinning. I built a makeshift tool that attaches to the pulley but there are several other ways. It doesn’t sound like you need to remove the sump, but if it’s off you can jam it with a piece of wood. I believe you can also put a deep socket through a hole in the bell housing that must fit into the flex plate or perhaps the torque converter (I haven’t used these methods). There is also a method where you have your socket and breaker bar jammed against the frame while you engage the starter very briefly.
I would be very reluctant to throw the “head gasket in a bottle” in, though I have used it successfully myself on several vehicles in the past. It will also partially close the small passages in the radiator and heater matrix. If you plan to keep the vehicle a long time you will likely need to replace the radiator and matrix after you properly repair the coolant leak.
I’ve also used LR Direct many times and have been very happy with them.
I’m probably being nit picky but the t-stat controls temperature. It does have an effect on pressure as a result (as a few above posts have already pointed out).
The t-stat controls temperature, I’m pretty sure it doesn’t care what the pressure is. Also, IIRC, some OEM reservoir caps relieve at 20 psi, so if the system is showing 20psi when the ambient temperature is really hot and the engine under high load, this might be normal.
Would Super-lock do that?
Thanks for the measurements Chris.
I’ve been meaning to do something like that for several years now but so far other items have had higher priority.
I’m not a diesel guy but if it started instantly I wouldn’t have suspected glow plugs.
Maybe our petrol is cheap compared to yours but in British Columbia I’m paying about CAD$1100 per year (about £640) for my P38. It’s been about the same for several years. The Disco is about the same.
From 420 to 1080! Ouch.!I helped my son-in-law do this job on his Disco 2 a while back. I wish I remembered exactly the method. I know we compared the D2 and P38 manuals. The P38 manual specified the tool that you’re talking of, while the D2 manual had you take up the top to bottom difference by feel. The parts seem to be the same between the 2 vehicles. His D2 is still driving nicely.
I’m waiting for the 500,000 signature.
One thing I’ve forgotten to do a couple of times is to put the original Timer Relay back in, rather than the generic one I have in to prevent self levelling while parked. Probably not your issue but I thought I’d throw it in as a possibility.
Good to know. Unfortunately we learn our best lessons the hard way.
Out of curiosity l, does the petrol pump keep running when you’re on LPG, or is it inhibited? If it doesn’t run you’ll almost never hear it.
Richard, those bodge jobs are the worst things on older vehicles. At least my LR’s were just neglected when I got them, not bodged.