Maybe you don't actually have a problem, maybe it's just trying to self level. If you remove the delay timer relay while it sits and it doesn't leak down, you don't have a leak.

Maybe I'm still naive (after only 2 years), but I wouldn't shy away from a GEM's (pre 99) in good condition.

As far as I'm concerned, you shouldn't overheat in slow traffic in hot weather. I don't have years of experience on LR V8's, but I don't think it should happen on any good vehicle. We have reasonably hot summer's here, high 30's C and my 4.6 hasn't overheated in my 2 summer's with it.

Mine are still the collected type and aren't as hard on the frame as your photos, but the airline still sits right on the same rail, which also bothers me.

I thought I researched it quite thoroughly before buying Gen 3's. I had one fail about a month after installing them. What I do really like about them is that they do perform as advertised, stiffer on lower height settings (normal and highway) and softer when you select lift. I felt that the body sway cornering on the highway was a bit much originally. It's definitely better with the Gen 3's. And on rough roads, or off road I'm pretty sure it's smoother than before, but I didn't do much off road with my original leaky springs.

Sorry, not the code, the VIN.

I think you need to give the code to a LR dealer. Hopefully they won't worry that you aren't the vehicle owner.

How would we know if it was effective or not? I bought one from Rock Auto and have been using it for 2 seasons now. The ac seems to work pretty well, but I didn't have the car 3 seasons ago, so wouldn't know how it worked new.

Fortunately it was the left latch, as I could insert a longish thin screwdriver and push the lever to release it. I bodged a fix which should work until a new cable assy get here. While I was at it, I decided to bend a coat hook to see if I could pull on the right hand latch to release it if I should ever need to. This worked, but I didn't realize the warning switch lives there and I dislodged it by accident. It's all back together now.
It will probably be good information for someone down the road to know you don't need to take anything apart to open the hood when the cable fails. A long thin screwdriver to push the left or a bent coat hook to pull the right latch, but be careful of the switch. From the front grille go through the hole where the black latch cable runs.
The above is for LH drive, but I suspect RH drive would be the same.

I did not remove my bumper to r&r mine, but it may have made life easier. It wasn't that difficult, but I agree, be careful about twisting off the fittings.

I didn't take out the seats to do mine. With the rear side covers out the whole ceiling piece came out fairly easily. I probably should have gotten help, but being stubborn I didn't and it worked ok. My biggest mistake in recovering the foam lining was not leaving extra around the sides and cut outs, but all in all it looks decent, no one but me sees the faults. Except the sunroof cover, which doesn't use foam backing, it looks terrible, but stays tucked out of sight.

Cool. I have about 165,000 km on mine now and was hoping for another 20 years out of it, as long as they let me keep driving that long.

Thanks Morat. I suspect my standards aren't higher than a lot of the folks here. I'm looking forward to being around.

I stumbled on this site a few weeks ago when I was trying to search a door latch issue on .net. Since then I've read through a fair percentage of the threads here, and I'd like to join. Many of the posts seem to be from people that I've found to be most helpful at .net where I've gleaned a wealth of knowledge. I've had my P38 for 2 years now. I've had quite a few vehicles throughout my life and my P38 has been my favourite to drive both on and off road. For the first year, it was probably my least trouble free car (second only to my first year with my 1963 Series 2A, which I've had for 25 years now), but I've got most of the issues sorted now. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade so I'm not afraid of most mechanical or electrical issues, though I'm not as good with electronics. I'm not the guy with a wealth of P38 knowledge, but hopefully I can offer some helpful advice on occasion.