I'd be surprised if that actually fixed it, but I hope so. Similar to Dave and Rob's experience, though not Land Rover, my Dodge Dakota power steering has made that sort of noise for quite a few years with no other consequences.

I'll be ordering the tool!

Thanks for the replies. Yes, prop shafts. I'm Canadian, where the term driveshaft is used, but also I've lived in the British car world for decades so I should have known to write prop shaft.

Okay, I got them out, but there must be a better way. Thin walled sockets, or other special tools? The transfer case end of the front prop shaft was especially difficult.

Looks great...really low mileage too!

Wow Dave! I didn't know so many things could go wrong at the same time. Hopefully the rest of your job goes better.

When I first got my P38, I read stories about disconnecting the battery, including a guy who used jumper cables when replacing his battery, to avoid the "dangers" of a disconnected battery. I was apprehensive the first time I disconnected mine, but it only takes a minute or two to enter the radio code and reset the windows.

It sounds similar to how mine operates, except it does go to unlock. I think if yours wasn't unlocking the shift would be really clunky. I live in a fairly mountainous area, and I generally shift down manually, as it doesn't shift down on it's own as soon as I think it should. My Disco and Dodge Dakota operate about the same.

When I pulled mine out, I didn't hear a difference. I now have one Dynaflo muffler and it sounds like a V8 should sound, although it might be just a tad too loud.

About a year ago I tried disconnecting my RF antenna (LHD). I couldn't get the fob to work, even if I held it right near the RF Receiver. I don't have an upgraded receiver, but neither do I have a problem with the battery going flat. I don't know if the NAS frequency is less susceptible to this problem, or if I'm just lucky.

Shear off or be very hard to move the shift lever out of Park. Roughly a month ago there was a guy on DiscoWeb troubleshooting a stuck in Park problem for several days. It ended up being exactly that he was parked on a steep hill without the Park Brake engaged, not the electrical issues he was expecting.

I don't know a lot about auto box internals, but I've been told that Park and Neutral are the same except for the pin that goes into place in Park.

Great work! With all you've done to it one would expect it to pass with flying colours. I try to keep on top of mine, but we don't need to worry about regular MOT inspections here. We can randomly get pulled over and be made to get a vehicle inspection.

Thanks for the reply Rob. I'm not sure if I understand the reason for deflating a compressor, but they must have a reason. I've replaced all of my air springs twice, and 2 of them 3 times. There was no such recommendation. It would be nice if there was a coating you could apply to extend their life. They do seem to last 15+ years, so we probably can't expect much better than that.

A related question, has anyone found a source for new NRV's? To get 3 good NRV's I needed 3 different valve bodies for parts.

I can't see that depressurising the EAS system to store it is a good idea. I don't think anyone depressurises tires for storage.

Thanks Richard. The diffs on the P38's and Disco's seem pretty tough (at least compared to my Series 2, in which I've broken 3 diff's, and a few more half shaft's).

mad-as wrote: PS the last video showed a reverse tow , this is not recommended with any 4wd as the diffs are not designed to be loaded in reverse especially diffs with collapsible spaces,

In all my years, I've never given that a thought. It does make sense though. I've certainly pulled numerous vehicles out in reverse, and I've also needed the odd tow in reverse myself. Sometimes there doesn't seem to be a good option. How important is this?

Thanks Richard. 13mm close enough!!! 8mm it is.

When I do my rocker covers (and head gaskets), do I need an 8mm, or 5/16" 12 point socket? And regular or deep?