I tried removing the mirror mount from a parts P38 and took a big chip of glass with it. Maybe if you heat it up before removing it?

Do you guys get enough sun in the UK for that?

I think Leolito is far more of an expert than I am, and my experience is from my Disco 2 (which we got for roughly scrap price due to the water leaks and the ensuing electrical problems). I lifted the carpets up and let a fan blow under them for a few days, which seemed to work, but the D2's foam might be different.

My 4.6 Gems quite easily does 160kmh, and it feels good.

Fortunately mine had only been neglected, not bodged.

If that's your biggest one, you're doing a lot better than me! (Sad to say).

Thanks Richard. Probably Prestone around here.

Ok, I need a Dremel, and a nail polish kit then! Various colours for various occasions.

Thanks for all the great info.
Richard, as for the anti-freeze, is there an after market type you would recommend? I've been using the orange stuff from the LR dealer, but there must be a much cheaper good alternative.

Congrats Richard! Maybe I need to follow .net a little more now. I rarely go there theses days, unless I'm a little bored.

I've been using Castrol Edge/Syntech 5W40 per RAVE for our climate here. About $CAD35 for 4 litres at Costco.
Morat, do you add the ZDDP, or does it come blended in the oil? Should we be adding it?

I'm curious about the reason for carrying a Dremel. (It's possible that in the UK it means something different than it does here, to me it's a tiny grinding tool and I can't imagine a use for it on the trail.)

I've seen a number of those shiny round things in mine too, but I don't know where they go either!

I'd be surprised if that actually fixed it, but I hope so. Similar to Dave and Rob's experience, though not Land Rover, my Dodge Dakota power steering has made that sort of noise for quite a few years with no other consequences.

I'll be ordering the tool!

Thanks for the replies. Yes, prop shafts. I'm Canadian, where the term driveshaft is used, but also I've lived in the British car world for decades so I should have known to write prop shaft.

Okay, I got them out, but there must be a better way. Thin walled sockets, or other special tools? The transfer case end of the front prop shaft was especially difficult.

Looks great...really low mileage too!

Wow Dave! I didn't know so many things could go wrong at the same time. Hopefully the rest of your job goes better.

When I first got my P38, I read stories about disconnecting the battery, including a guy who used jumper cables when replacing his battery, to avoid the "dangers" of a disconnected battery. I was apprehensive the first time I disconnected mine, but it only takes a minute or two to enter the radio code and reset the windows.