I'm pretty sure that if you bought it from RSW you have V4, which also does ABS, and the ECU.
In my 4 1/2 decades of driving, I've probably driven manual and auto boxes about evenly. I'm not sure what the official "right" way is, but as I slow down for a light, or other reasons, I usually shift down to 3rd, then 2nd to aid in braking. I think some people feel using an auto for braking is hard on the box, but I've gotten pretty long life out of all of mine. I've never been in the habit of going into neutral, partly because I'm concerned that I'll go right through N into R, but Richard indicates that I won't harm the trans by doing that. That's good to know.
5 hours in queue?!! I'm surprised that all you needed was beer!
Highway with not too light a foot and fairly mountainous terrain, I can get about 19 mpg (Imperial gal) with the P38, and 17.5 with the Disco. I suspect the Disco pushes more air, needing more fuel to maintain speed.
Comparing mu Disco 2 (coils) to my P38 on EAS, I'd say for moderate speeds, like around town to slow highway speed, they're fairly comparable. As you go above 100kmh, the Disco feels worse the faster you go. Off road the P38 also outperforms as the air seems to keep the wheels on the ground much better.
That's awesome Richard. Definitely helps boost the confidence level on my "almost new" P38.
I removed mine for the same reasons. They were clean underneath, but it had never been off roaded before. As for looks, I cut them off below the front door forward edge and reinstalled the part at the front fender. If you didn't know what it was supposed to look like you wouldn't know something was missing.
Sorry Dave, I know you're experienced on these vehicles. I've had the Arnott's fail twice now and it instantly slams down to the bump stop. Just one corner at a time though.
Yes, V4. I finally got a. Nanocom Evo, but so far V4 has done everything I've needed.
Maybe he isn't selling them anymore, but 2 years ago I bought the cable, and software, from RSW Solutions. So far, everything that I've needed a code reader for has been covered by RSW.
Dave, be careful of being under the car with the Gen 3's. I've had 2 fail now with the car idling in the driveway. It slams down pretty quickly. At least put something like jack stands under the frame rails.
Our roads do see some salt in the winter, but nothing like beach salt/sea spray! Good luck keeping the corrosion at Bay.
We use Dinitrol on the airplanes I work on. It works really well. Some of our airplanes are well over 60 years old and still fly most every day. I've never done a whole undercarriage on my cars, but when I have things apart I usually give them a brush (my S2A is 57 years old and still on original frame and body paint).
Bolt, you can usually find the Yakima parts on eBay. Other than the bars I would guess that shipping shouldn't be too expensive. I've wondered if you could use 1" round bar, but the actual bars are metric and around 1 1/8. The racks work really well.
It's been starting fine. The air springs leak down in this weather. It should be back to our normal winter temps of -5 C soon. +10 sounds nice, but our skiing has been really good!
I've got the Yakima racks on mine, they weren't $850, but not cheap. They work great though. I have a canoe on it for half the year, plus bicycles often enough. This time of year it's ski racks. -22C outside right now!
That's exactly what stopped me the first time. They wanted a bank draft which was going to cost me close to $50CAD from this end, with no guess as to the fees from Cypress. This time around it was pretty seamless.
Brian, I think BBS has sorted out their payment options now. I attempted to buy a Nano a little over two years ago when I first got my P38, but abandoned the idea due to this issue. This past November I tried again and got a Nano Evo. They take PayPal and MasterCard like everyone else.
My Canadian P38 has amber lenses front and rear, as well as red rear fog lights.
I like your idea of comedy!