There’s a small fan located at back of dash in centre console that is beginning to make noise at start of each drive then quietness. Before I was my day removing dash to access it does anyone know if this can be cleaned and lubricated to quieter down or is the sound the start of impending impeller death and a replacement should be ordered. It sits behind a small vent located in Centre console.
As an aside can the part number be shared and more importantly what in the name of Jehobahs beard does this fan do?
I plugged the NANOCOM in to test vehicle as the P38 was giving slight roughness at idle.
Im not sure how to decipher the readings but Cylinder 4 is reading mostly .25 and twice each minute or so it goes to 2.33 or 2.24 +/- .1 for a split second and about 1.23 +/- .3 about 4 times for a split second in the same minute. It will spend time at 0.0. Rest of cylinders are either 0.0 or .25.
There is a slight roughness but no faults showing and no misfires.
Any thoughts?
@Gilbertd….not the Linley. She has driven about 50 miles since the rebuild. I was supposed to take her to the British By The Sea car show in CT ( http://www.ctmgclub.com/BBTS.html ) last summer but the car transport trailer I had booked never materialized. Hopefully I will be able to show it at that event in summer of 2023.
The work completed and to be done is for the Holland & Holland…. She will also need a repaint in the next few years. It has began to develop this two annoying stain marks on roof just above the front windshield. Seems common on all Landrovers from that era. Has anyone ever figured out what causes those marks?
Changed both coil packs.
New plugs and leads.
MAF cleaned.
Replaced cabin filters
Oil and filter
Replaced wiper blades front, rear and headlamps.
Next, in 4989 miles, is my 150,000 mile service when all undercarriage fluids and filters get replaced.
Lovely clean floor crept for the “well she’s got oil in her” marks.
All fixed and sorted.
Replaced plugs and wires.
Cleaned MAF.
Replaced both coil packs as I had a brand new set from a P38 rebuild. Seller sent me two sets in error and when I pointed this out to him he told me to keep them….’my rewArd for honesty”.
Vehicle is grand now…… until the next demon appears.
Ok. Well changed the plugs an now I have a
P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor
Fault Drive Cycle A
Occurred 1 Time
Signal Too Low
Fault is Currently present
Haven’t a clue whether I have advanced or not….
TY.
I have old plugs out and am waiting for NAPA auto parts to receive the new plugs at 330pm. Will advise.
There are 6 different drive cycles. Ill assume its C1 or C2, although how I’m going to get 50MPH for 5 minutes on country roads is beyond me……
I have the following NANOCOM readings;
P0300 Multiple Cylinders Drive Cycle C, Occurred 4 times, Signal Too High, Fault is currently present
P1000 Cylinder 4 Drive Cycle C, Occurred 4 times, Signal Too High, Fault is currently present
P1000 Cylinder 2 Drive Cycle C, Occurred 1 time, Signal Too High, Fault is currently present.
P0306 Cylinder 6 Drive Cycle C, Occurred 2 times, Signal Too High, Fault is currently present
Nothing for other cyclinders. Nothing for cylinder 8 either.
HISTORY. 2000 P38 HSE. 143,000 mi.
About a week ago the vehicle would be a little rough on idle from start but only after the engine was warm and maybe she was sat for 15 minutes. No idle issue from cold start. Idle getting progressively worse but clears after a few minutes. Car drives fine but Ive put her in shed until this gets resolved.
Thoughts and what needs replacing?
@Morat, whilst I appreciate your infinite and unquestionable knowledge on all things P38, I would have to disagree with your recommendation about taking the wood to a gunsmith or professional. This is a simple job that just requires patience and a soft hand. Added to that, there is a lot more pleasure in knowing you did the job yourself. I did all the repairs to the woodwork on the Linley and if that job wasn’t sent to a professional I don't know what P38 wood job justifies being sent out. After all, its not a piece of wood from the table of the Last Supper we are talking about here….. respectfully
I refurbished all the wood on my H&H last year.
Suggestions:
1: remove all the wood fixtures from the vehicle
2: use a fine sand paper to smoothen the rough wood
3: be patient. It’s a small job but if you hurry it you will end up seeing the defects or errors
4: use Teak Oil (Star Bright Premium Teak Oil) it’s pricey but you get what you pay for
5: see # 1!!!
Best of luck. It’s one of those jobs that gives you great satisfaction as you see the results every time to drive.
Thanks Gilbertd. System has been vacuumed completely and let sat overnight. I have 45oz of R134a and 4oz of the oil ready. I do have the proper kit for the job. Was more interested in issues members may have had refilling the system.
Thanks
Found the “damned leak” in HEVAC. Fortunately using the Nitrogen pressure test i sourced it with bubbles at the drier! Top nut wasn’t snugged down enough, actually was finger tight. All tight as a drum now and holds the 100PSI I put in for an hour at least.
I note that the system requires 49oz of R134a plus oil. Having never refilled a system from empty I need help with this.
Whats the technique for filling the system? Do I buy 4 x 12 oz R134a with the oil added or do I get the R134a and add the oil separately.
Any other tips, tricks, warnings or ‘lessons learned” before I pull the “trigger”?
Thanks
Whilst I am not disagreeing with your point re “all parts being vacuumed or pressurized”, I’d have to ask why does my High Pressure vacuum hold a vacuum and the Low side will not? That’s what had me ask the question. It’s not making sense to me why one side will hold and the other will not> There has to be a “shutoff” somewhere in the system that’s separating the readings.
Im not using dye for the leak test. Pressurized Nitrogen and soapy water is all.
My concern is that the “bloody leak”, as I am now calling it, one of the connections at the Evaporator. Correct me if Im wrong, but if my memory serves me correctly, there are no other fittings between the firewall and the Evaporator. With the Expansion valve being within the engine bay the High and Low pressure pipes then run directly to the Evaporator….
All the parts to the AC system are brand new but I never pressure tested it before installing the dashboard and all the trim within the cabin, which is my own fault…..
The only hope is that the “bloody leak” is within the engine bay……
Question re leak testing….
Im planning on using nitrogen to pressure test but am unsure as to the mechanics of the AC system.
If I add the Nitrogen to the low pressure side how much of the system gets tested? Will the Nitrogen pressurize up to the Expansion Valve and back to the Drier or will it go as far as the Evaporator and then back to the drier, or to where? Same question re the High Pressure system.
I suppose the question would be whether or not the system is split and if so where is the divide between High and Low pressure?
So this is a Catch 22 situation I’m in then….
I can’t add the dye because the system won’t hold vacuum. It will hold maybe -1 while I have the vacuum pump running but as soon as I turn it off it goes to zero…
Any ideas as to how am I going to get the dye into the system with no vacuum being able to be held?
I can’t imagine that stripping the entire system apart is my only option to finding a leak…. Surely
Romanrob, will the compressor pull in the Freon/dye regardless of there being no negative vacuum in the system? I assumed that a negative pressure was required to “suck” the Freon in?
Long story short…. Rebuilt one of the P38s from ground up. Replaced many, many parts and she works as good as new…. Except…
This was a tyre up restoration. Everything was removed. When it got the the AC system I put as new compressor, condensor, drier, expansion valve and evaporator in. Made sure all was secure. Went about the rest of the work.
Today, I decided to tackle the AC and vacuum test it. Low side will not vacuum to less than -1 and wont even hold that. High side will vacuum down a bit. I’ve obviously got a large leak on low pressure side.
Knowing where the evaporator and the expansion valve is located I’m dreading the replies I am sure to get here BUT…
If I am unable to get any vacuum at all on the vacuum test will my only solution to finding the leak be my removing and rebuilding the entire system again?
OR would it be worth my while to jury rig the pressure switch, forcing the compressor to accept R134 with dye added, so that I can try and source the leak with a black light instead of ripping the whole thing apart? My understanding of the system is that the compressor will not engage unless the system indicates pressure so byp[assing the pressure switch will allow the compressor to run and thereby pulling the R134 plus dry into the lines etc….
Ideally I should have pressure tested the system before assembling the interior around it….
Who I knows Gilbertd…. I’d wager if i put old stalk back in that all would work fine….
It’s a Land Rover!!!!!