Whilst I am not disagreeing with your point re “all parts being vacuumed or pressurized”, I’d have to ask why does my High Pressure vacuum hold a vacuum and the Low side will not? That’s what had me ask the question. It’s not making sense to me why one side will hold and the other will not> There has to be a “shutoff” somewhere in the system that’s separating the readings.
Im not using dye for the leak test. Pressurized Nitrogen and soapy water is all.
My concern is that the “bloody leak”, as I am now calling it, one of the connections at the Evaporator. Correct me if Im wrong, but if my memory serves me correctly, there are no other fittings between the firewall and the Evaporator. With the Expansion valve being within the engine bay the High and Low pressure pipes then run directly to the Evaporator….
All the parts to the AC system are brand new but I never pressure tested it before installing the dashboard and all the trim within the cabin, which is my own fault…..
The only hope is that the “bloody leak” is within the engine bay……
Question re leak testing….
Im planning on using nitrogen to pressure test but am unsure as to the mechanics of the AC system.
If I add the Nitrogen to the low pressure side how much of the system gets tested? Will the Nitrogen pressurize up to the Expansion Valve and back to the Drier or will it go as far as the Evaporator and then back to the drier, or to where? Same question re the High Pressure system.
I suppose the question would be whether or not the system is split and if so where is the divide between High and Low pressure?
So this is a Catch 22 situation I’m in then….
I can’t add the dye because the system won’t hold vacuum. It will hold maybe -1 while I have the vacuum pump running but as soon as I turn it off it goes to zero…
Any ideas as to how am I going to get the dye into the system with no vacuum being able to be held?
I can’t imagine that stripping the entire system apart is my only option to finding a leak…. Surely
Romanrob, will the compressor pull in the Freon/dye regardless of there being no negative vacuum in the system? I assumed that a negative pressure was required to “suck” the Freon in?
Long story short…. Rebuilt one of the P38s from ground up. Replaced many, many parts and she works as good as new…. Except…
This was a tyre up restoration. Everything was removed. When it got the the AC system I put as new compressor, condensor, drier, expansion valve and evaporator in. Made sure all was secure. Went about the rest of the work.
Today, I decided to tackle the AC and vacuum test it. Low side will not vacuum to less than -1 and wont even hold that. High side will vacuum down a bit. I’ve obviously got a large leak on low pressure side.
Knowing where the evaporator and the expansion valve is located I’m dreading the replies I am sure to get here BUT…
If I am unable to get any vacuum at all on the vacuum test will my only solution to finding the leak be my removing and rebuilding the entire system again?
OR would it be worth my while to jury rig the pressure switch, forcing the compressor to accept R134 with dye added, so that I can try and source the leak with a black light instead of ripping the whole thing apart? My understanding of the system is that the compressor will not engage unless the system indicates pressure so byp[assing the pressure switch will allow the compressor to run and thereby pulling the R134 plus dry into the lines etc….
Ideally I should have pressure tested the system before assembling the interior around it….
Who I knows Gilbertd…. I’d wager if i put old stalk back in that all would work fine….
It’s a Land Rover!!!!!
Resolved… stalk was boll@xed….. went to box of parts I had and bingo all the 8’s 88….. job done.
Went to leave at early dawn. All dash instruments illumination lights inop. Radio works as does navigation system. The lights in the switches (front/rear fog) etc all work. The background illumination for these same switches do not work.
Thoughts?
Changed the pollen filters on the P38. Something I’ve been doing bi- annually since I’ve owned P38s.
Often overlooked when servicing these vehicles. After two years these were minging….
Worth doing me thinks.
Great link for brake bleed….
@Gilbertd, are you suggesting with the symptoms that I mentioned in post #5 that my issue could still be air in the system? Asking cos I’m genuinely not sure. As mentioned, the air compressor for accumulator kicks on every time I press the brake pedal.
Thanks StrangeRover…..
Took it out today and every time I press the pedal the accumulator pump motor kicks on for 3 seconds or so.
Ordering a new accumulator now and will advise….
TY… Just to confirm, if I start the vehicle the pedal is soft until I “pump” the brake a few times and it then feels normal. In addition if I start it in the morning and let it sit at idle for 30 seconds the brake pedal will also operate “normally” ….. are both of these symptoms of air in system?
And on the subject, what would have caused air to get in the system? She’s never been low on brake fluid….
About two years ago I had a brake pedal that was soft and wouldn’t stop vehicle if I put it in D at start up. Giving it about 30 seconds and worked proper pedal was soft until pressure built up. Never would have issues throughout the day.
I replaced the accumulator and all was grand. Now the same issue is back again. I’m assuming it’s an accumulator fault again, BUT could it be something else? The accumulator would be the cheap and first fix I suppose?
Thoughts……
Solved…. Bulbs were sh1t…..
sometimes the easy fixes are the best. 10 bulbs for $20 sometimes isn’t. GOOD DEAL….
Anyone point me in a direction to find out why my brake light seems to blow every 10 or so applications. Haven’t identified if it blows when pedal Is pressed for a long time or just from frequent uses. Volts to socket are normal.
Almost at the stage where I leave the cover off the access panel these days to save time putting one of the 10 replace r bulbs I carry around with me, especially after the local copper .left me off with a verbal when I promised to replace it…
Good idea re contacting Dunsford.
I’m sure she’s worth a lot more than what quotes I have been getting. I did have a well known car guy from a popular TV show here in USA come by to see it and he wasn’t sure where to begin to try and value it. His thoughts were that it being a Range Rover doesn’t make it a high demand collectible vehicle but on the other hand felt that the fact it was the only one of its kind ever made and was owned by a celebrity (Pitt and Anniston) made it extremely unique.
He felt that the right buyer could pay above $150,000 for it but then on another day you would be lucky to get $35,000.
“How long is a piece of string” and “something is only worth what someone is willing to pay”…..
Does anyone have a company in USA that I could get to appraise the LINLEY?
Been through a number of places and they all range between $10,000 to $23,500!!!! Obviously they base appraisal on the P38 with a small premium on it being a “special” vehicle.
Installed exhaust system, manifold back, in 4.6. Easy enough project. Hadn’t realized how loud the old thing was getting until I drove it with new pipes.
Atlantic British for $449.
Thanks for reply GILBERTD….
Seems my P38 is having fits in threes….
Exhaust system failed, mysterious oil disappearance followed by hood latch cables fraying……
Fortunately I can attend to them all and the cost of purchase is only outlay.