Investigated tappity sound and I have cracked exhaust manifold on right side…. Further along I have both rear exhausts rusted and the center box pipes are no better. So bad are leaks that very little exhaust is emitting from either rear exhaust.
Question, whilst this has been answered in previous posts, as I’d like to get an updated reply, can anyone recommend a good brand and source for the mid and rear exhaust system for a 2000 P38 as well as a manifold for right side?
While I’m at it, should I just replace the entire exhaust system and one side of manifold while I’m at it?
Gilbertd, it was difficult to replicate the sound on demand. Was never constant and sometimes when accelerating it would not be there and other times it would come back. Never really lasted longer than 5 minutes then would be gone as quickly as it came. Had her in cruise control at 70MPH, opened pax side window as I passed a truck and you could hear the tappity sound reverberate then about 10 mins later passing another truck did the same and nothing. Ambient temperature was about 50F.
Was driving from Boston to Conneticut and all of a sudden started to hear a tappity sound from front right. Pulled into lay by and sound was coming from right side of engine but not consistently. Increased in intensity but not sound when engine was revved. Continued drive and there were times when sound was not there at all and then it would come back with no set speed or acceleration determining when the tapping sound came. Definitely coming from the rocker area of engine.
She has 115,000 miles on it and is due exhaust manifold gaskets and a complete exhaust…..
Comments suggestions or otherwise so as to help identify the culprit….
She’s a 2000 P38 4.6 …….
There’s thread creep and then there’s this..... ^^^^^^
Jesus wept
I’m with Morat on this. Cant see them appreciate to the same degree as the Classics have....
Thanks for replies gents. Informative and helpful as always.
Ill put it down to old age and leave her with her cantankerous reluctance to drive immediately after I start it in AM.
Cheers
Ive had an ongoing issue with the H&H (2000 P38) for past three years. Not a big deal but an irritant. Like a pebble in ones shoe.... sometimes it bothers you and other times you never notice it.
If I am to start it and drive away without pause then step on brakes the vehicle will not stop immediately but come to a slow stop. Maybe roll about 5’ slowing down.... If I let it idle for about 15 seconds then she will stop normally. I changed the accumulator a year ago and issue cleared for about a month and returned again.
ANyone have a notion? Doesn’t happen in the Linley
Can someone post a link to where or who sells the best non OEM exhaust system for a 4.6 P38?
Mine has finally suffered from the dreaded Northeast corrosion corner road salting program with rear boxes and center pipes rotted and now the manifold gasket leaking.... all seem to have snuck up on me as I would normally consider myself one who keeps up to date on the mechanics of my vehicles.
Rains it pours.....
Mink coat with no knickers.....
Paint looks good.... rest looks shite
Does anyone have the rear license plate lense cover for a P38 that is not cracked?
Mine is broken in 4 bits and being held together with glue, tape, sticky rice (good enough for the Greatr Wall of China then good enough for a P38) and a prayer......
I need the entire unit that includes the black plastic and lenses.....
Glad to pay a decent price plus the shipping to CT....
FWIW, and bear in mind I know nowt, I don’t believe that your Speedo and three amigo issues are related.
I had a few amigos the other day and they were caused by the ABS sensor not being fitted correctly after I replaced the rear diff..... perhaps have a squiz at the condition of the two rear sensors....
Just a thought...
Job done. That DA1065 tool I would suggest is essential to undoing bolts on the drive shaft from rear diff. I was able to access all 4 bolts on driveshaft without having to raise either front wheel off the ground. I used that same tool to access the nuts on the differential. I would recommend, I’m sure most would do this anyway, that you get a pointed object and clear all dirt and grime from around the diff nuts before attempting to remove them so as to allow the socket to get proper purchase on the nuts. I found a few of the nuts were heavily caked with grime and socket tool couldn’t fully enclose the nut.
When I had the driveshaft disconnected I propped it up in its highest position using a 2x4. If you allow it to sit in the lowered position while supported the differential will have very little space to fit the diff by the driveshaft when you are taking it off. WIth driveshaft raised there is plenty of room to remove the diff.
With all nuts removed I gave the diff a belt or two with hammer until it broke free. After that I positioned a trolly jack underneath the dif and took the weight of it from the bolts on diff housing. I then just needed my 2nd pair of hands (12 year old son) to slowly push the trolley jack towards front of vehicle while I balanced the diff on the jack. Once the unit was clear of housing the jack was dropped and diff removed. I did the exact same when reinstalling the new diff. I used all brand new bolts and Nylok nuts when reinstalling.
While the half shafts were removed I replaced both drive seals. Care must be taken when reinstalling the shafts not to rest them on the seals so as to avoid disfiguring them.
All in all its a 3/10 for difficulty.
Wanted to start a thread asking what made LandRover engineers design something in some way so as to be so annoying that it makes you want to ___!!!! Answers are not required to postings...... This is just a venting post...
Great intel;......
What does putting the handbrake on do if both back wheels are off the ground?
The part arrives on 18th so I’m free til then....
Thanks again...
Cheers Gilbertd.... just bought that.
Re the wheels, does it matter which wheels are off the ground? I have the rear on jack stands with wheels and hubs off with half shafts removed. I can easily jack up either front side.....
There’s one on eBay USA but earliest it can get to me isMarch 29th! I suspect he is buying it fromChina...
P38is on blocks at this time so I need it within 7 days or so....
I’m about to call quits on project.....
I can’t get any of the nuts on prop shaft to budge. Nothing. I’ve PB blasted them and got a perfect size socket on and nothing.....
Think I will have to take it to Indy to complete unless I can get my hands on the tool DA1065. Regular socket is not doing it for me.....
As an aside, and this may sound like a thick question, but how do I rotate the prop shaft? I putRR in neutral and tried turning in by hand and it doesn’t shift.....
Does anyone have this tool? I’d obviously be willing to pay for shipping to USA and will return it in kind.
Thanks Gilbertd, that seems to be how I read it. I’ve previously changed both rear hubs in past 7 months so that task is familiar.
I’m going to await the arrival of the replacement unit before removing the damaged one so as to have an idea of the weight involved etc....
Well that just got more complicated....
I was under the impression that all that was needed was to remove the 4 bolts securing the driveshaft/prop shaft to the rear diff and drop it then access the 10 rear diff nuts.... didn’t read anywhere about splines on a transfer box.....
In fact the workshop manual section 51 page 4 states “Remove 4 nuts and bolts securing propeller shaft to differential. Release shaft and tie aside; discard nuts.
What am I missing?
When I am separating the driveshaft from the rear diff do I just need to separate the one end or does the entire shaft have to be dropped? If I remove the 4 bolts do I just give the shaft a belt with a lump hammer to drop it? The workshop manual just instructs me to disconnect the driveshaft without specifically saying one end or the entire unit.