Coils to bags it is....
Looking for assistance or advice from anyone who may have done this job or have links to same that could be of use.
So far I’ve checked compressor and it’s perfect. Looks like, from mx records I have, that previous owner had a new one installed in 2015 about 3 months prior to changing the vehicle to coils.
Relay was disconnected under hood, the 3 plugs in EAS box were disconnected as too were the plugs at back of center dash. The drier is good and the air storage tank is rust free. All hoses “appear” to be in good condition and looks like previous mechanic who removed bags just used a snips to cup hose lines at the entry point to bags.
Looking for a good point to start this project.
I have connected the plugs inside the EAS and replaced the relay in fuse box. I haven’t connected to plugs to the driver controller switch behind the dashboard.
Question. Should the compressor work without me connecting the plug to the back of the driver control switch in dashboard?
Assuming the compressor works, what should I expect to happen once it starts?
Will the air tank fill and then bleed the air out through the 4 lines or will the tank just pressurize?
As mentioned earlier.... any suggestions as to what steps to take next? I’m trying to avoid the vehicle being on jacks for a month and looking for “If I could do it again, I would do this” advice..
Thanks for intel.
I found them on Island4x4 for small money but they want a kings ransom to ship them via FEDEx to USA....
What happened to popping down to post office and dropping them in mail?
The tests aren’t half as strick here stateside. Seems like they only do an emissions test here now and even then they plug in an OMBD to get the results. Judging by some of the wrecks on the road, a stricter test might be called for. Not as strict as UK MOT mind you.....
Re the original topic, I was able to locate the other two SRS plugs. One is at bottom of pillar between front and back door and the other one is underneath the front passenger airbag above the glove box. Ill sort the door pillar one first and hopefully this will clear the fault.
I’m setting about replacing the coils on the H&H with Arnott airbags. I received the bags a few months ago and when I opened the boxes this am I find that they do not include the pins that are used to attach the bags to the body. The previous owner removed the bags and did not reset the pins.
Does anyone have a set of spare pins for these bags or any knowledge as to where I can get them?
Thanks GILBERTD.... I’ll have a look in workshop manual this pm and verify. Failing that, I have a wiring harness in one of me parts bins, that I can lay out and see where the various plugs are that could be causing a fault on pax side.
I thought somehow that by removing the plug under seat and hardwiring it, so to speak, would have resolved the issue. I’ll probably end up hard wiring all the connectors instead of leaving the plugs in place....
Why do we even care that an SRS and AIRBAG FAULT light are on? Probably the same reason that one of the bulbs in tailgate brake lamp setup being out drives us up the twist.....
Nanocom code 018... PAX AIRBAG CLEARED OPEN
Fault appeared recently. In trying to clear the problem I’ve hardwired the plug underneath the passenger side seat and still have the above fault. Unable to reset with NANOCOM.
Could this fault be related to a loose connection in the SRS plug above and behind glovebox?
Getting SRS red light on instrument cluster.
Able to reset with Nanocom but it appears to come back after passenger sits in seat.
Is this a coincidence, and if not, is there a “squat switch” in seat that senses pressure from an occupant?
There’s a window strip that runs the lower length of your front windshield. Often this will wear out and the clips that hold it into the lower window frame will perish. With that water coming down the windshield will get under the strip and find its way in through the holes where those clips attach to and run down to the floor.
I removed the window strip and bought a new one. When putting it back in I had to remove a number of the clip pieces from inside various holes. I also put a tiny dab of silicone on each hole. No more water on the floor.
Also, while you are at the above, I would suggest that you remove the windshield wipers, remove about 8 screws holding in three plastic covers. Remove these covers and you will probably discover a bunch of leaves and hazelnuts etc. clear them out.
At the backside of the longer piece of plastic you will notice where a mesh had been attached. This usually perishes. This is important to replace as it keeps the leaves and such from entering into the gulley below the windshield which can cause water to get into the vehicle. I cobbled some plastic mesh from a home supply place , removed the metal wiring that held in the old mesh and replaced it. While there I added a stripe of silicone on inner side of both air intakes, where the filters go in order to help guide water away from them.
Pain in the arse to have to remove so much to put the mesh in and to clear e gulley but well worth it.
As an aside, with so much water in the door way you should probably check the site plugs further forward along that loom to make sure they are not damp.
I just purchased and installed the controller as described in the link by BOLT on Sept 19th above.
Took all of 30 minutes to change out. Fixed the left blower motor issue.
I would say it was the best $10 I have ever spent but that would not do justice to the time I spent in Bangkok some years ago....
Did you try letting the misses out of the boot?
Cheers for that....
Anyone have a spare speed controller they would be interested in selling?
Finding a breakers yard in the Great State of Conneticut is like finding an ashtray on a bicycle. I found one on eBay for $69 but in the interim will hold off for a few days to see if someone here would have one that would be sure to be in working order on arrival.
When I have blower control on HI both blowers run full speed.
When I select a lower speed setting, the right motor adjusts accordingly but the left motor stays on high speed.
I have R&R the left blower motor, separated the housing from the motor, cleaned the relay with contact cleaner and cleaned the internal components but the issue still exists.
I have noted that the relay for the left blower tends to get hotter than the one for the right motor but cant think of any reason for this. I did note a hairline crack running from one of the left relays ports to another port and, with that in mind, I swapped the entire fuse panel with another vehicles panel and the high speed only mode still exists with the left fan motor.
Questions;
Probably worth $15,000 in my opinion. But as my wife says, what do I know?
@Bolt, what unicorn are you referring to that went for $45k?
Cheers
He knows enough about it to be asking 55 clams for it!!!
ABS and TC light will come on if one of the sensors has worn down or if there is corrosion on the half shaft where the sensors pick up their signal. Hopefully its the the sensors. They can be a mare to remove.... Blast them with rust remover or your favorite bolt loosener for a few days prior to removing. If you are replacing sensors do both of them.
That is a beautiful P38 mate. Congrats on winning that award.
Great to see one so well taken care of...
Why would one put L322 headlights on a P38?
That’s a fantastic testament to your ownership....
Well done..