I’ll schedule something with Marty...
This has become like chasing my tail.
As mentioned, the receipts confirm the VINs but it may be that they just sent the key and FOB and no programming. Cars are 18 years old so who knows what they did...

Hi
Tried all that and no luck...
Talk about a pain in the hole....
Like having a tiny pebble in your shoe. Shouldn’t bother you but when it does it may as well be a show full of broken glass...

Nanocom readings Imonolizer
Imobilizer
Disabled
Lazy Locking
DMH key only
1 touch
Front
Key Warning
Enabled
EKA
Disabled

Are these correct settings? Nothing has worked for this whole FOB central locking sync...

@Sloth...
Just tried this and neither FOB lights up when I insert key in either ignition....

Ok.
Sat in both vehicles separately and Did the BECM responding to FOBs tests on both sets. Both vehicles awaken to both FOBs.
Tried the syncing method recommended by GilbertD and no luck. Not on either car with any combination of keys and FOBs.
I checked receipts for key sets and they were ordered by VIN.....
At a loss. It’s the only system not working on The Linley are driving me up the wall and sideways.

I purchased a brand new OEM pax door handle, ignition battle and glovebox barrel (along with a valet key and 2 x FOBS) Kit last year from LandRover.
I installed them all without too much fuss.
Vehicle starts no issues but I am unable to get the key FOBs to work the remote central locking system. Doors central locking work fine when I use the key in door or push the knobs down inside but the FOB remotes do not open and close doors. Did the syncing method with flashing light key in door etc but no good.
Would be nice to get this system working.
Does this need to be synced at the dealership or is there a tried and true method?
Hair being pulled......

Came across this which you guys may find helpful..

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/files-1089/EAS20-20Beginers2028Rev29.pdf

I have 2 very rare Holland & Holland P38 brochures in absolute mint condition for sale.
I was fortunate enough to come across a number of these items in a box that was sitting in a dealers showroom when I was in UK looking for a part for the P38.
While chatting with the parts guy he mentioned that they had a wiring harness for the P38 spots “in the back somewhere” that he would let go for a “reasonable offer” as it was only gathering dust and he couldn’t imagine anyone would ever want one these days. This item had the relays and everything needed to wire up the spots correctly and all in the original box, dust included.
The wiring harness I’m keeping but I wanted to pass on the brochures to anyone interested. They are absolutely flawless with no wear, dog ears, stains anywhere.
eBay item number is 283705911178

It says EAS MANUAL on start up..... had to go check. I guess I was so used to seeing it that it become common place.
I will check the plugs into the bottom of the ECU tomorrow.
My fear is by attacking this project that I will make a perfectly running vehicle into a ball of yarn and start chasing down a rabbit hole.
The only reason I want to change to bags is to get the vehicle back to as original as possible...... don’t want this to become a thread pulling from a sweater incident......

Good intel....
When I plugged all the above in and started the vehicle the compressor did not start. That’s why I asked the question regarding me needing to plug the connectors in that are disconnected for the height selector switch in the dash.
I’ll remove the center console tomorrow and connect the plugs to the EAS control switch and the height settings button and hopefully that will get the compressor to work.
There is no EAS Manual dash indication.

I probably didn’t clarify where things are with this project.
She’s currently sitting on coils. The compressor is new, so I’m assuming it works fine. The air pipes are all present and in correct locations. I’ve plugged the relay back in as well as cleaned and reconnected the three plugs inside the EAS compartment. The wires are connected to the ECU. All the height sensors are in place.
I know that the electrical plugs that goes into the height adjuster switch as well as the height display switch in cabin are currently disconnected.
My question is, will I need to connect the above mentioned respective plugs into the back of their switches in order for the compressor to work?
Just setting myself up to pull the bandaid off in one big tug but also trying to avoid a rabbits hole....
What’s an EAS Unlock Suite?

Coils to bags it is....
Looking for assistance or advice from anyone who may have done this job or have links to same that could be of use.
So far I’ve checked compressor and it’s perfect. Looks like, from mx records I have, that previous owner had a new one installed in 2015 about 3 months prior to changing the vehicle to coils.
Relay was disconnected under hood, the 3 plugs in EAS box were disconnected as too were the plugs at back of center dash. The drier is good and the air storage tank is rust free. All hoses “appear” to be in good condition and looks like previous mechanic who removed bags just used a snips to cup hose lines at the entry point to bags.
Looking for a good point to start this project.
I have connected the plugs inside the EAS and replaced the relay in fuse box. I haven’t connected to plugs to the driver controller switch behind the dashboard.
Question. Should the compressor work without me connecting the plug to the back of the driver control switch in dashboard?
Assuming the compressor works, what should I expect to happen once it starts?
Will the air tank fill and then bleed the air out through the 4 lines or will the tank just pressurize?
As mentioned earlier.... any suggestions as to what steps to take next? I’m trying to avoid the vehicle being on jacks for a month and looking for “If I could do it again, I would do this” advice..

Thanks for intel.
I found them on Island4x4 for small money but they want a kings ransom to ship them via FEDEx to USA....
What happened to popping down to post office and dropping them in mail?

The tests aren’t half as strick here stateside. Seems like they only do an emissions test here now and even then they plug in an OMBD to get the results. Judging by some of the wrecks on the road, a stricter test might be called for. Not as strict as UK MOT mind you.....
Re the original topic, I was able to locate the other two SRS plugs. One is at bottom of pillar between front and back door and the other one is underneath the front passenger airbag above the glove box. Ill sort the door pillar one first and hopefully this will clear the fault.

I’m setting about replacing the coils on the H&H with Arnott airbags. I received the bags a few months ago and when I opened the boxes this am I find that they do not include the pins that are used to attach the bags to the body. The previous owner removed the bags and did not reset the pins.
Does anyone have a set of spare pins for these bags or any knowledge as to where I can get them?

Thanks GILBERTD.... I’ll have a look in workshop manual this pm and verify. Failing that, I have a wiring harness in one of me parts bins, that I can lay out and see where the various plugs are that could be causing a fault on pax side.
I thought somehow that by removing the plug under seat and hardwiring it, so to speak, would have resolved the issue. I’ll probably end up hard wiring all the connectors instead of leaving the plugs in place....
Why do we even care that an SRS and AIRBAG FAULT light are on? Probably the same reason that one of the bulbs in tailgate brake lamp setup being out drives us up the twist.....

Nanocom code 018... PAX AIRBAG CLEARED OPEN
Fault appeared recently. In trying to clear the problem I’ve hardwired the plug underneath the passenger side seat and still have the above fault. Unable to reset with NANOCOM.
Could this fault be related to a loose connection in the SRS plug above and behind glovebox?

Getting SRS red light on instrument cluster.
Able to reset with Nanocom but it appears to come back after passenger sits in seat.
Is this a coincidence, and if not, is there a “squat switch” in seat that senses pressure from an occupant?

There’s a window strip that runs the lower length of your front windshield. Often this will wear out and the clips that hold it into the lower window frame will perish. With that water coming down the windshield will get under the strip and find its way in through the holes where those clips attach to and run down to the floor.
I removed the window strip and bought a new one. When putting it back in I had to remove a number of the clip pieces from inside various holes. I also put a tiny dab of silicone on each hole. No more water on the floor.
Also, while you are at the above, I would suggest that you remove the windshield wipers, remove about 8 screws holding in three plastic covers. Remove these covers and you will probably discover a bunch of leaves and hazelnuts etc. clear them out.
At the backside of the longer piece of plastic you will notice where a mesh had been attached. This usually perishes. This is important to replace as it keeps the leaves and such from entering into the gulley below the windshield which can cause water to get into the vehicle. I cobbled some plastic mesh from a home supply place , removed the metal wiring that held in the old mesh and replaced it. While there I added a stripe of silicone on inner side of both air intakes, where the filters go in order to help guide water away from them.
Pain in the arse to have to remove so much to put the mesh in and to clear e gulley but well worth it.
As an aside, with so much water in the door way you should probably check the site plugs further forward along that loom to make sure they are not damp.

I just purchased and installed the controller as described in the link by BOLT on Sept 19th above.
Took all of 30 minutes to change out. Fixed the left blower motor issue.
I would say it was the best $10 I have ever spent but that would not do justice to the time I spent in Bangkok some years ago....