The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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donmacn ... Gr8 ;-)
been there, done that ...

Thanks guys, got very comprehensive help from GilbertD ... helped a lot.

Hi Folks,
I have a somewhat delicate Question ... really asking for a friend ;-)
He has a 2001 Thor P38 and messaged me, if I could help him to get the doors open, without his key, which is locked inside.

I know how I would tackle this with my GEMS own P38, but the microswitches in my drivers door are working, I have two working fobs, key code and procedure trained and available and the super lock electrically disabled. I would definitely nit have this problem, but as far as I have informations, yet: He has locked his only key in the car and it is a 2001 Thor one.
I think there are some factors, like battery discharged and reconnected or other circumstances, which would make a huge difference in trying to come in the car.
If he has alarm enabled, super lockable doors, no second key ... there might be some important things to look for, how to get into the car.

My concern is avoiding to bring this sensible Diva of BECM to avoid thinking it could have got be stolen (which would be, btw a sure sign of mental disorder - we know what I am talking about, while reading this ;-) and get into this nasty super lock down mode, where You need the special expensive module for some diagnostic software and soldering skins, which will keep You horribly electrically banned from Your car. As far as I know, there is not OBD connectable possibility of getting into the BECM, because lock up means terminating input from this interface, which is very relaxing having such a safe car, but is an annoyance in situations, which might occur by stupid or reckless approaching this special kind of problem.

pls. only private messages, I hope to be trustworthy enough for getting details, which should NOT be written in a public forum? Hope You'll agree. So it is a public call for private assistance. But I promise to help other fellow P39 owners in this situation to give help and assistance (like I always do, e.g. right now).
What should I have take care for?
What to look at?

Thanks in advance

as I will do that soon, too I made the same list in advance.
ANR3313 is a flanged head bolt, M12x120mm 10.9 grade. Nothing custom or proprietary.
I found a new substitute within VW suspension bolts, just the self-locking nut has to bought, too, VW uses a different thread from LR. Happy finding, they are from FeBi Bilstein just a few cents ;-)
If You are into new nuts & bolts, like me when doing repair at the suspension and brakes, it might be worth having a short google search. Sadly I do not have the part numbers here at the computer I'm writing right now. But if You want them, I can post them later.
Do agree with GilbertD, front already done, major difference. Hoping my bolts will surrender at the rear ;-)
I did the front stabiliser / tension bar as well, don't know if it is really necessary, but having the RR on the lift anyway ...
One addition, the owner rear shock nuts should be added to Your list, if You are really picky, they have to be loosened and the damper compressed to reach some of the bolts for the rear trailing arm.

Guess what I did just last week. Installing the refurbushed one is quote easy, three bolts and the air supply.
Did the dryer as well, which was not necessary, as I found out opening later the old one.
EAS suite v4 from RSW was helpfull deflating / depressurizing comfortable the system.
Took me a bit more than one hour from start to end (without wirebrushing the old tank and painting it with rustproof and clear coating.
Anyway, preventive maintenance (as I learned from GilbertD) ...
worth the effort IMHO...
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I bad very good experiences with island4x4, lrparts.
Famous four and rimmer were fine, too.
Craddock once, and never ever again. They show things as available, which are not. Once you place an order they do bill and that´s it. You have to ask and as I cancelled my whole order ist took month and my credit card company to get my money back. Very strange communication, too.

StrangeRover there's another test procedure, which is from the blackbox website:
BECM Sleep Test
This test will determine if the BECM goes to sleep properly or it will stay awake.
Sit in the vehicle in the driver seat with all the doors closed.
Wait until the interior light switches off.
Switch on the ignition.
Switch off the ignition.
Open the driver door and leave the door open for the reminder of the test.
Switch off the interior lights by pressing the button for 4 seconds. On the message centre you can observer the message "Lights off".
The message centre displays "Ignition key in" for approximately 2 minutes.
If the display goes blank after the two minutes, then the BECM is gone to sleep, if the display is still on, then the BECM did not go to sleep.

Aftermarket Stereo headunit, amplifier, Sat-Nav etc? Burnt/sticky relais?
Fuse circuit by fuse circuit measuring is the systematic search approach, which I know for identifying a "current thief".

Good luck!

I've got that already: miles, not just whimsy Km ;-)
deeply impressed!
Role model maintenance ... but britpart door fasteners are OK? #scnr
could not agree more, let's write a Zen and the Art of Range P38 maintenance (for the non-initiated, there's a book called "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance", definitely worth reading it You love both philosophy and technics as well, even if it states in the preface its not about that topics either ...
I think that's called preemptive maintenance in english?

BTW If You have a Diesel and go the way the BMW tank, like Dave3d, the level sensor looks the same as the RR Classic ones before 90s model year, with metal expansion tanks. Parts number PRC5077. I remember, that it was known that BMW uses the same sensor ... just to make confusion perfect ;-)
They seem to have the same supplier contracted ... it works with a magnet and a reed contact as opener, which I really liked. The lamp would indicate if the wire is broken, too ;-)
But a lot of used RRC I had a look at, had them shorted ... guess why ;-)

leolito THX ;-)
about the TBH, You might have already discovered Yourself, but when I researched options for the level sensor, the TBH problem (or missing connection) with the V8 engined cars was addressed. They went either for other tanks, or cut the hoses and put T-pieces in them. IIRC Thor and GEMS have some different layouts of hoses and some other flow directions of coolant in details.
Otherwise You can get another V8 header tank and put a sensor Yourself in that. Thats was my first idea, when I already had found and bought a sensor and a second hand unit for training installation, I found the plug and play solution from Alisport. Buying a Diesel was a another option, but then I would just end up with two P38 #rofl #scnr

Richard ... wow!
But makes me confident that all the tlc maintenance and repairs will payoff in a long lasting pleasure ...

Update ... lucky me has an instrument cluster with the red "service engine" warning lamp, unused in Europe (it´s for US / CAN if memory serves me correct).
So I went for this. A red light with this text and an unbearable piezo buzzer of enough noise to be hearable even if You listen to Prodigy makes me feel a bit more relaxed now while driving ;-)
Only thing which I underestimated was the routing of the wires ... took much more time than I expected. But less than taking the whole dash apart.
A sturdy wire for pulling the loom makes installation much easier.
Instead of Gilbertd´s good and friendly advice, I took the power of the cigarette lighter, was easier with the electric components I had, than hacking into the genuine wiring loom. No cutting involved, in theory it´s even removable without traces ...

Hi, just wanted to report that the swap from the older amr1173 (silver box - GEMS) to the newer AMR5700 (blackbox-THOR) has worked out great for me.
My cc was working only intermittently so I built with a good friend with better soldering equipment and much more experience, an adaptor like the one described in the link:


We even copied the idea of cutting the box ;-) better a good copy than a bad innovation ...
The new(er) ECU just fits exactly where the old one was located and there's plenty of space for the adaptor behind the dash.

It switches much smoother, than the old one (at least as mine did, IF it was working).

Just make sure You get one matched for Your engine / car. There are four versions circulating around: Disco V8 4.0 and 4.6, Range 4.0 and 4.6 and a setting, which I do not know, called "default". Got this information from a diagnostic manufacturers website and it is approved by a few articles in other forums. The used parts dealer always try to sell You, what they have stating the part number counts ...

So if You suspect Your ECU to be the reason for strange behaviour (or none) of Your cc, give it a try. The AMR5700 are really cheap to get and a working cc is worth the effort.
If You can not solder, find a good old friend who likes drinking whisky as much, as Yourself ... let's talk about maximising reasons to cheer / toast ;-)

As the ECU is fitted to the RR Classic and Discovery 1 it might work there as well, as described in the link.

leolito ... in continental Europe, germany to be exact (at least geographically, mentally don't ask me).
The side wings might be a matching color, but they don't look matching the state of the car, to be honest. They look a bit derelict ... but thx for the link, definitely worth looking. I have enough patience, all the ones I found since I own my actual P38 were in a state, which makes me wonder if it is the feature of side wings in TAN to be sticky, scratched or just from a commercial van ;-)
I am thinking right now about a centre console sprayed professionally in TAN ... as a contrast to all the wooden ones ;-)
Upwards to the part, where all the buttons are located. I've seen one in beige / light stone the last days in another forum and I liked that very much.
Images will come tomorrow ...

Marshall8p ... about the glow plug or any other unused symbol, I had a look at my spare and training instrument cluster from a Thor engined late V8, there is no glow plug symbol or any other unused one.
I will check that and report in a few days, when I installed the warning LED and buzzer in my GEMS V8.
In the case You don't have a spare symbol it is possible to "scratch" an individual symbol in the cluster, there are spare positions for warning lamps, but blanked out (read non-transparent).
I wanted to have the symbol understandable in the case someone drives my car, without me ... so I've tried a double wave with a triangle pointed downwards in combination with a red LED. Together with a buzzer everyone told me, they understand some kind of low level, which indicates stop driving and switching of the engine. Understandable enough for the purpose.

Funny finding, I don't know where I read that, but the possible error messages in the BECM / cluster display had the programming for low coolant level, but somewhere between specifying the features of the P38 and final production realisation, this feature got lost. As an long term Range Classic driver I liked that feature of a low coolant warning light very much. It saved me at least two engines in almost 20 Years, whereas the temp gauge in my first P38 reacted too late (I guess) when a hose busted with 180 Km/h on the highway. I stopped at once and refilled with water, but afterwards the engine had a bug, which resulted in wrecking the car at the end. Now I have a very nice P38 I want to avoid that kind of failure risk, so an somewhat over engineered low coolant warning feature is worth the effort IMHO ... YMMV ;-)

Would be great if anyone has a TAN / brown centre console and the sidewings in TAN / brown.

Give and take ... I have a very good security stowage box for the rear boot compartment, STC8532, complete with genuine fixing kit, but sadly no keys.

I think the BMW header tank only works with the Diesel?
Went for an alloy tank with level sensor from Allisports, plug and play.
Have fabricated the LED for the instrument cluster a few days ago by removing the electric contacts from a genuine build holder and drilling an appropriate whole for ease of installation.
Will integrate a buzzer as well, like belt and braces ;-)
Dave3d ... did You use an existing / non-used Icon or did You drill a whole or scratch the black layer. I have a spare instrument cluster which has no unused symbols, so I tried to scratch my own, which looks OK. Will have to look, what's fitted in my car.

While preparing the low coolant level warning light and ckecking, if the sensor in the expansion tank is open or closing the circuit, my fob felt down several levels in the staircase (three to be honest).
While mumbling self-curses not suitable for work and children, I picked up the fob and NO led while pressing the buttons :-(
Searching in my boxes in my workshop, I found an old fob from my first P38, because the damn battery connector broke in my fob, visible after getting the battery cover out.
Out came the soldering iron and it liberated a donor battery bridge ... that was not even half of the game. Taking the key from the actual P38 apart was a pain in the back (without damaging the circuit board). Anyway, after some hours of cutting, cursing and soldering, I managed to get my fob working again, now housed in an old key, until the already ordered new outer shell arrives.
Next step waiting is the change from the old cruise control (GEMS AMR1173) to the new cruise control ECU (THOR AMR5700). On monday i soldered an adaptor for the later ECU with a friend. Now I am waiting for the arrival of the package of a used ECU I bought in the digital bay to test the new set-up.
The red circled part has to be desoldered and donated to Your coded FOB.
That´s the bridge, which is usually the problem with the FOBs

Gr8! Sounds like an easy place and I have to remove the centre part anyway, to change some bulbs in two switches.
Planned to install a buzzer in the centre, too. So perfect place.
Thanks for the fast reply!

Gilbertd You might have heated cloth seats? They were available ... so there might be a shortage in the circuit? With heated seats only the wiring loom under the seats is just for the heater (two plugs if I remember correctly, base and backrest).
The wiring for the electric movable seats is a separate additional loom, the plugs in the BECM are on the side of the transmission tunnel, so You have to remove the seat to get to them. Easy plug and play. C912 in the ETM.
I removed the loom from the donor car together with the seats and removed the heated wiring loom, as this is integrated in the electric movable loom already.
IIrc heated seats mean highline BECM (like sunroof and some other options).
I had manual heated leather seats in genuine trim to make confusion complete.