I deleted 2 spam threads the other day from a user called games_bebra. I tried to ban the user but got an error message reading something like 'method not allowed'.
Still the same problems j-rov ?
If petrol and LPG are stopped, while-ever there's still piped gas to houses in the UK we could have home CNG compressors and run our vehicles on that... Unless it's banned. Or maybe still get bottled LPG.
Thanks Gilbert, I passed that info on to the owner. I recently advised this owner to join the pub forum.
Gilbert or others on LPG, please remind me what plugs you find are best in P38's? I've just been asked the same question in an email, he has Champion plugs in at the moment.
When you think it's warm enough to change over have a feel of the reducer to see if it feels warm, if it's mounted high up there could be an airlock in it.
Could be a problem with the reducer temp sensor or it's wiring.
Prins ignition (RPM sensing) modules often fail, the Prins VSI ECU's could be damaged by voltage spikes on the rpm wire, so if the system gets it's RPM feed from an ignition coil or from a cam sensor an RPM module is probably fitted. If the ECU doesn't see an RPM signal it will never change-over to LPG, and if it loses the RPM signal while running on LPG it may switch back to petrol without the driver knowing (no beeps from the switch etc). There are various types of Prins RPM module, something around matchbox size with a few wires coming out of it or something that looks very much like a relay.
When I was 18 I carried 2 complete P6 V8's (no ancillaries) across the yard and into the back of a Transit van, I felt like Clint Eastwood in Any Which Way But Loose lol.
PC38 wrote:
Dear All,
Thanks, thats what i was thinking, 350 kg = 70 Tesla battery packs, should be enough range.........
I'm watching this thread!
How much will the conversion cost?
Do areas of interference keep the electronics awake and flatten the battery?
Not for a P38 but the other day I bought a Yuasa 334 battery and Ring RCB320 charger from Halfords.
Seems these days makers of battery chargers quote peak amps instead of RMS amps, the RCB320 is supposedly a 20amp charger but is only around 12amps RMS. Expected that when I bought it though and just wanted a dumb oldskool charger rather than a modern umpteem stage computer controlled one.
Thanks Bri, our posts crossed around the time of your link so I've only seen it following your further prompt.
The discussion on Subaru forums was years ago, they were talking about the merits of buying a pre/post 2006 H6 Legacy, post cost more for road tax.
Are there any other aftermarket looking electronics boxes in the engine bay or engine sensors?
There used to be a scrapyard called Doncaster Motor Spares, I went there quite a lot with my dad as a kid and went there by myself as a teenager. Back then they had a muddy yard with cars rocking on top of each other and if you wanted an obscure part the owner/staff would let you have a walk around the yard yourself to find the part you wanted and remove it yourself. 20 Years later they moved to a bigger site, renamed the firm Motorhog.co.uk and advertised heavily on TV and radio. Now if you want a part and you phone them you speak to a girl who knows nothing about cars, tell her what part you want and wait 4 hours for them to txt you to say 'Sorry no parts' even though you know full well they have the part in stock. But years ago having been made redundant I applied for a job there and was offered it but turned it down to do something that paid a bit better.. The manager still seems to know my face today, not sure if that's because of how often I visited in the past or because he once interviewed me for a job, but if I visit he'll usually let me sit alongside one of his workers in a golf cart to go on the hunt for cars/parts in their large concrete storage yard where cars are kept on racking instead of stacked on top of each other on a mud base. Wish it were still like the old days though, and I think they could make far more money if they had better staff who didn't tell customers they had no parts when they do. Just like the Ebay sellers, they always seem to have a que of irate customers bringing parts back that were incorrectly supplied.
Thanks for answering my questions Gilbert, sorry if I took things a bit off topic.
I'm still thinking about the cutoff date, pretty sure there's been a lot of talk on Subaru and other forums about otherwise identical vehicles, same engine and state of tune, paying different road tax if before or after 2006. Is there just the one cutoff date or could another cutoff date have effected road tax on those vehicles?
Thanks for answering my questions Gilbert, sorry if I took things a bit off topic.
I'm still thinking about the cutoff date, pretty sure there's been a lot of talk on Subaru and other forums about otherwise identical vehicles, same engine and state of tune, paying different road tax if before or after 2006. Is there just the one cutoff date or could another cutoff date have effected road tax on those vehicles?
Gilbertd wrote:
It's 2001 as the cut off. Anything first registered before 1 March 2001 is on the flat rate system, that is £170 a year if under 1549cc or £280 if over. After that it is the sliding scale depending on CO emissions so you'd need something with less than 150g/km for it to be cheaper than a smaller engined car on the flat rate.
Has that changed from 2006 or did I just get the cutoff year wrong?
Imports (at least from outside of the EU) are also on the over/under 1549cc scale even if newer than the cutoff? Not only that but some imports newer than 2006 are on a lower rate of Ulez charging than they would/should be if they were EU cars? People are buying 2007 Nissan Elgrand 3.5 V6's to have an old-ish relatively cheap people carrier with a big engine that they don't have to pay as much in Ulez charges for as for a similar age / engine size / emissions none-import.
I forget how the road tax system works.. Is it pre 2006 it's based on engine size and post 2006 based on CO2 emissions?
If that's true, one interpretation of the intention of the petition is lower road tax for small engine'd old cars to bring it closer to the cost of taxing a modern small engine'd car (currently cheaper to tax a 2016 1.2L car that is taxed according to it's low CO2 emissions than to tax a 1990 1.2L car)?
But if it involves not having to put vehicles through an MOT the wording envisages a legal loophole where anyone could buy a 1990 Ford Fiesta / Cavalier / etc, drive it daily and only ever spend on maintenance when it refused to move or the wheels fell off...
I could agree with the road tax argument and it could also make sense in terms of CO2 emissions (an old car on the road might mean a new car doesn't have to be made) but I wouldn't want a lot of people driving early 90's cars without taking them for MOT.
There are a lot of 1990's cars on last legs now, in poor condition and almost ready for the scrappers. A change to rules today would still be in force in a few years and could see a lot of those cars that would be scrapped instead valued more than a 27 year old car but only because they don't have to be MOTd... no chance of a mechanic telling the owner it needs £300 spending on it or it can't be used on the road, the 'no nasty surprise bills' car.
How long has it been that a classic car is one over 40 years old? If it was as far back as 1985 a classic in '85 would have been produced before 1945... hell of a difference between a 45 and 85 car and few 45 cars were on the road in 85. Not nearly as much difference between a 1990 car and a 2020 car, arguably it is surprising 'classic' age hasn't been increased rather than decreased in terms of MOT but that could be a different argument to road tax.
Not sure what just happened but I had a duplicate post, so deleted the first post, now both posts have been deleted. The post #'s were 4 and 5.
Gilbert's 'that would make sense if he didn't have a diesel' was in reply to the post I accidentally deleted, in which I said I've seen a P38 where someone has cut the LPG interface plug off to wire-in a 9 pin plug instead which could be used with a WTV LPG interface cable.
This post crossed with Gilbert's post above... Hehe Gilbert that was confusing but thanks for trying to help.
I've often wondered about the conflict of interests between what 's good for running-in most of the engine versus what's good for running-in the cam.
David Vizard used to recommend using an oil stone to remove the sharp edges from piston rings, reckoned this allowed running in the bottom end at a bit higher rpm which helped with running in some of the high lift cams he fitted.. but I suppose that won't help the engine bearings. Maybe ideally a new bottom end should be fitted with old cam and heads until the bottom end is run in, then the engine pulled and new cam and heads with new valve gear fitted lol.
Sorry to read about your accident Gilbert.
I'm probably wrong but I thought I remembered you once saying you'd love an L322?
The 5.4 RV8 is claimed to produce 'around 400bhp' but I'd have my doubts it makes as much power as the LS motor, a tuned Ford 5.0 or the supercharged Jag V8... Or would be as long lived as any of them? Easier to fit in a P38 because it would just drop in without any wiring or mechanical mods.
I can understand people preferring an older model car to a newer model and wanting better than newer model performance in the old one, said before I'd like an olde Granada mk2 and would like to drop a V8 in it and I'd prefer that over a mk3 old Granada with 2.9 Cosworth engine... But if someone likes both models and the newer model can be had complete / on the road with the high performance engine at cheaper cost than modifying an old one they could think might as well just buy the new one? Or buy the new one as an engine (and maybe gearbox etc) donor car for the old one could make sense if other high performance engines alone (just an engine not a complete running car with high performance engine) would cost similar or more. There's probably more 4.2SC's in the UK than 5.0 Windsors or 5.4 stroker RV8s.