Echo-Echo wrote:

Trawling through this Forum, I've just read this. Could it have been L Jackson, The Rocket Site, Misson, Bawtry, Near Doncaster ? I too went there in Austin the '70s and was intrigued by the range of ex-military gear they had (including a Land Rover on steroids with 900x16 tyres - no, not a 101). I was there for a rear axle for my Champ...

Just seen your post.

It could have been, I'd probably have been too young to take much notice of the name of the place and exact area but I do remember it wasn't far from Doncaster so it may well have been the place in Bawtry.

The warehouse with Landrovers on racking was massive but I was more impressed with the shells etc in the yard!

Marshall8hp wrote:

From memory you have to leave the ignition off for more than 20 seconds so the ECU resets before the pump will run again.

Ahh, my suggestion of turning the ignition on/off a few times before cranking won't help then (unless fuel pressure drops very slowly).

A rudimental check for gas leaking is to squeeze a rubber gas pipe to injectors when the engine has been turned off overnight, if it feels like there's pressure there probably won't be a leak, no pressure means the gas has leaked somewhere and in your case probably into the inlet manifold as Bri said.

If there's no gas leak and if the petrol system retains pressure then check LPG calibration because calibrating the LPG system too rich can cause negative fuel trims which makes the engine run leaner on petrol, including (in some cases) during cranking.

But since leaving a key in the ignition makes a difference it does point more toward lack of petrol pressure. What happens if you leave the ignition on a few seconds, turn it off, repeat a few times before cranking?

Hello and welcome Max.

I have never owned a P38 but have converted a lot of them to LPG.

Others will answer your question about competition between forums better than me but it is my understanding that Gordon and Richard decided to start this forum after experiencing 'problems' on other forums.

I had RAC membership as an extra with my Barclays bank account.

I broke down towing a large caravan on my way to Newquay. To cut a long story short the RAC came out and would have moved the car to Newquay but not the caravan... I had to get an independent garage to move the car and Caravan to Newquay.

I hired a car on holiday in Newquay, after the holiday the campsite allowed me to leave my car and caravan stored there, returned home in the hire car.

Took the advice of a few people on this forum including Gilbert iIrc? Joined the AA, went back down to Newquay in my other car, had a few extra days in Newquay, called the AA out, they moved the broken down car back to home in Yorkshire (took a few days for them to get it back), I towed the caravan back from Newquay with my other car.

I obviously took advantage. I doubt RAC would have moved the car with ruined engine first to Newquay and then come out again and move the car to home even without the caravan... And I needed to be there with the broken car to pretend to the AA that I'd been driving that car in Newquay, so I kept my other car out of sight before they arrived, told them I didn't need a lift home thanks because I'd hired a car, no need to mention the caravan.

I think the AA would have moved the car and caravan, either from the breakdown position to Newquay or from Newquay to home, but not both. Could hardly ask a breakdown firm to move a broken car to one place and then come out again and move it to another place.

Even the 'start' connection at the ignition key switch?

Before I knew problem fuse boxes were a thing on P38s I was called out to a Rangerover specialist to diagnose a problem that saw the engine would crank but 9 times out of 10 wouldn't start, the problem turned out to be due to an issue in the fuse box, the relay that powers the petrol injectors positive wasn't switching and it wasn't the relay at fault. Until then I didn't know that the relay coils got a constant positive and were earthed by the ECU (at least that model/spec P38), seemed there was a break in the fuse box between the ECU negative signal to the relay and the relay itself (iIrc or it could have been the relay got the switched negative but not the constant positive). Anyway I wired up an easy get-around once I'd identified the problem. The P38 was converted to LPG but the nature of the problem was more of a job for an auto-electrician than for myself, but I sorted it anyway and was a bit surprised that none of the staff at the specialists could solve it.

Dynamic tariffs and pay per mile are not necessarily the same thing but if smartmeters in homes had dynamic tariffs (dynamic as in change the cost of charging an EV depending on the time of charging) and cost of batteries came down low enough, then to get around the higher peak time charging cost people could fit a separate battery bank to charge up off-peak then charge the EV battery from the battery bank and charge their EV during peak times at the off-peak rate.. and maybe charge from battery to battery faster than charging from mains to battery.

Will the per mile component be the same price for all vehicles or vary depending on year / make / model / engine size / emissions (or relative to cost of current road tax)?

If relative to current road tax those of us with older vehicles with big engines could still pay less per mile than a newer vehicle of similar spec.

Over the years there's been several times of discussion about doing away with road tax and adding an additional tax to fuel... but can't see that happening because it doesn't allow for all the same big-brotherish type controls.

Notice the steam cleaning effect provided by a head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder...

I saw this thread earlier today and watched it in case the OP, who has only ever made this one post, turns out to be a spam robot.

It won't hurt to post this now somebody else has already replied lol.

I was aware about nitrogen finding leaks but I thought the main reason it was used to test AC systems instead of air was because air might contain water vapour?

nigelbb wrote:

A few years back I got some new tyres at ATS & they offered for a price to inflate my tyres with nitrogen promising some magical benefit. I declined on the basis that air is about 80% nitrogen already so that would be good enough for me.

Nitrogen is more pressure stable with varying temperature than air, so on race cars when they want to keep tyres at a specific pressure they might fill them with nitrogen. But for a road car if your tyres are getting hot it's probably better that they do get the bit of extra pressure provided by expansion of the air in them?

I know someone who has just used Seafoam in his Nissan VQ35 engine.

He had suffered a blocked cat (common problem on those vehicles) and after clearing the cat debris the engine smoked and the inlet tract in the manifold to one or more of the cylinders on the engine bank that'd had the blocked cat were found to have evidence of oil in them, not to mention low compression on one of those cylinders.

Some suggested that the problem could be stuck rings and that Seafoam might help so he used Seafoam the other day but at the moment the engine still smokes. Some Youtube videos suggest that the engine smokes a lot during using Seafoam and will smoke for quite a lot of miles after using it. Fingers crossed but I don't think it's fixed his problem and probably couldn't have been expected to fix it.

By most accounts though it does do a decent job of carbon removal? Some vids claim even more and show engines that had problems such as sticking hydraulic lifters that were sorted by using it.

If you want to increase range on LPG of a P38 there's always the option of fitting a second (and a 3rd, possibly even a 4th tank).

Adding a single extra tank could easily more than double capacity/range, and you could fit it yourself for around £250... but it would take up around half the boot space.

Triple range for around £500 but not have much boot space left at all.

Maybe quadruple range for £1100 but have no boot space left and lose the petrol tank.. So then it would be monofuel LPG.

Side point - adding extra tank(s) can also increase the filling speed.

I'm not surprised that people don't like the idea of monofuel LPG, I too feel re-assured to know that I can fall back on petrol if necessary.

But I'm also not surprised people don't much like the idea of effectively only being able to recharge an EV at home and at work, not have the ability to fall back on petrol and not have the option of doubling range for £250 or even for £25k.

It would be handy to have the ability to refuel with LPG at home but that is something I could have if I really wanted it or if it was necessary. Even before LPG I could have stockpiled petrol at home if I'd ever felt the need but I never did (although I have stockpiled red diesel in the past!). It is more important to me that I can take my car anywhere with confidence of being able to find somewhere to refuel it close to my ideal route, refuel quickly, has long range, I can tow with it, I didn't have to pay £50k for it, and I don't have the uncertainty of it needing a new fuel tank in a few years that might cost £20k to replace.

I'm not a climate change denier and I acknowledge vehicle engine emissions have played a big part in climate change but the work I've done so far has helped reduce CO2 emissions to the extent of taking hundreds of vehicles off the road while not replacing them with brand new vehicles that were made at the cost of a lot of CO2 emissions. Until electric vehicles have better range and the charging infrastructure is much improved petrol/LPG dual fuel vehicles are still not a bad bet - I am busier now than I have ever been despite BP and Shell pulling out of the market and despite turning down contracts to convert hundreds of taxis.

A lot of EV buying has been company cars for office workers... who have since proven to be able to work from home, therefore it won't matter much if they have a dirty great diesel on the drive or an EV because they won't use it much in future, so why still allow subsidies for them to buy a new EV? If the buyer claims it's for leisure use and they want to use it to visit their remote farm in Scotland from London every weekend then that's their civil liberty and a different matter but an EV less than a Tesla would be a poor choice for that type of use.

Clive603 wrote:

Current needed to trigger the build failure warning system depends on how the system works. As I understand it the way P38 electronic control gubbins is fairly close to the CanBus standards. Although, like everything else, the actual magic smoke control is done rather differently from the modern way.

As I understand it CanBus and related, pre Can Bus, systems have three ways of doing the bulb monitoring.

1) Low level pulses to determine if a bulb is actually fitted during the power-up self test on a modern car before everything comes on line and the car can be started. Fortunately doesn't appear to be done on the P38. Things that do tend to need proper CanBus bypass doobies. Although its still a good idea to wait until the self test lights have gone out before starting up.

2) Low current detection circuits to determine if there is an operational bulb. Generally these need to see the something around the impedance of a cold bulb before the drive transistor can turn on. Easily done. From memory the headlamp drive transistors in the BECM have the necessary monitor ability implemented in the device itself hence 4 terminals rather than the usual 3. Osram suggest that a current of around 1/4 the normal, i.e. hot, draw of an operating bulb will suffice. I suspect this is what the P38 uses. Simple, effective and good enough for its purpose.

Pretty sure thats how I worked out the the parallel resistors for the LEDs I put in my reversing lights about 6 years back. Now up to two young active glow worms per light level rather from the standard one geriatric and seriously undernourished glow worm. Better than nowt I guess.

3) Operating current monitoring. The electronics continuously measures the actual current draw of the bulb or illuminator and flags up anything outside that specified for that particular vehicle. We certainly haven't got that although the transistor drive light controls are quite capable of implementing it. In Europe driven by TuV (German) homologation requirements, with a bit of deliberately malicious input from the French, which essentially demand that a modern car has a Car Configuration File of all specification and approved part fitment details hidden in its electronic brain. Anything not on the internal approved list is verboten for that vehicle. So switching stuff from a different specification version becomes a nightmare.

And you thought BECM issues were bad!

Its all getting rather worrying. My second bike is a Yamaha GTS (the funny front end one) and the fraternity are getting reports of German inspection failures when using a 120-70 front tyre instead of the standard 110-70 despite it being an approved alternative fitment because it doesn't actually appear on the original homologation data supplied by Yamaha. It is said the machines are over 10 years old getting the changes approved requires the whole homologation process to be re-run by Yamaha. Which isn't going to happen. Apparently, in Germany at least, the powers exist to invalidate insurance, ban the use of and possibly confiscate anything that doesn't exactly comply with the on file paperwork.

Regrettably pragmatism is out of favour these days.

Clive

(1) and (2) are easy enough to get around with a bit of work, a cheap way is just to wire 12Watt brake light bulbs in parallel with whatever bulbs you're fitting. I once fitted some Xenon's on my dad's 2004 Vectra (this was in 2006), they continuously flashed and the dash lit up with bulb warnings, but they worked perfectly with break bulbs wired in parallel and the dash warning lights went out. Instead of using resistors you can just use bulbs, a resistor flowing same current as a bulb is going to have to dissipate as much heat anyway? Handy under-bonnet lights for checking the engine at night too lol.

If the problem isn't as simple as battery voltage are there any multimeter tests he can do to see if the TC clutch, output speed sensor, etc, are electrically working (even though this wouldn't necessarily prove they were mechanically working)?

I don't know the P38 boxes as well as many here but such problems on other gearboxes can be due to bad electrical connections such as the connector between the box and vehicle loom or internal on the valve body. Sometimes breaks on electrical tracks on the valve body can be a DIY repair.

Is there a common component that could go bad that could cause all these reported problems? For example on other boxes you can expect to get codes for certain speed sensors if a clutch is slipping or not engaging due to a bad solenoid, in which case you get the code for the solenoid but you also get a code for the speed sensor. If there is a possible inter-relation between codes it points toward an actual gearbox fault, if there is no possible inter-relation it could point more towards a generic electrical problem such as a bad earth or as Bri said battery voltage.

Most people's concerns about ethanol are about fuel system components compatibility.

Then there's the well known differences with calorific value and octane rating and the lesser well known different stochiometric ratio.

On some vehicles with compatible fuel system components the IAV may need to open to a different extent and fuel trims may see limp mode triggered.

A lot of E85 compatible modern vehicles have an 'ethanol content' stream in OBD live data, the detected value of this shifts between fuelling, ignition timing and IAV default position maps.

Nothing wrong with experimentation, I'd probably want to try it myself if I wasn't converted to LPG and E85 was available.

It may be handy to have a fully featured Nanocom but I believe a lot of cheap generic code readers will show MAF readings on P38s? Or even possible to just connect a multimeter to it and compare voltage readings? For comparative purposes just the voltage should suffice... The OP doesn't necessarily want to see if he can calculate bhp from airflow readings, just see if his seems to be flowing as much intake air as others.

Welcome

I've known engine power be effected by different grade oil effecting hydraulic lifters.

I believe generic code readers will show a figure for MAF readings on P38's, though I think whether the readings are meaningful/accurate or not depends on the year and engine ECU of the P38. I think I've seen some daft figures on some models using some code readers like 300g/s which would equate to enough air for around 375bhp. But some scan tools show maf voltage and the interpreted g/s reading.

A good test will probably have to involve actually driving it flat out rather than just revving it while parked up,, and don't even bother looking at the screen until you get to quite high rpm with foot to the floor. A good uphill stretch helps minimise road speed during such test.. It would probably be helpful if the scan tool plots a slow moving graph of MAF reading.