They are still obtainable then?
Agreed, that is a lot for a basic rebuild. However, I guess I'm not trying to make a living from doing it, and don't have the overheads either!
Designed to ensure engine air flow is over the motor and down and under the car as opposed to some exiting at the rear of the bonnet.
There is a 12V live to the blowers that comes on in position 1. I have used it as a 12V tap for a feed to a digital temp gauge.
Gilbert might like to comment, but does all of the pressure testing and vacuum pulling test the schrader valves? It seems to me that the machine can doo all it likes when connected and give a perfectly serviced AC. You disconnect it and due to a faulty schrader valve, your gas leaks out over the next few months.
If I am putting the bonnet up vertically to work on the truck I remove mine, usually just by pulling them out and putting them back when done. They just sort of seem to sit there in place.
…. And the best part about ARP studs, no need to buy a new set of head bolts…..
Likely it is an A/C fault. From memory the system checks the A/C some time after engine start, so a faulty A/C clutch would cause the cheque book to pop up.
I doubt Sloth would ever be in a position to have a 40 degree day, unlike yourself!
In relation to running in the cam, take note of the information in this BMW bulletin on transmission failure due to running the engine at high idle.
It seems providing the engine has been off for more than 30 seconds, and you don’t move the selector out of Park, all should be well. Apparently the ZF box will pressurize the clutch packs as soon as the transmission is put in gear, and they remain pressurized (and slipping). Worth noting if you have to start the car to move it out of your garage as opposed to let it roll out.
There is a BMW service bulletin quoted by Shogun in this article.
Have you checked the XYZ switch to see it isn’t corroded inside? Just a thought.
Anderson plugs are rated at 50A usually. You should be able to find them on the net easily. If not, sing out and I’ll grab some here for you, they grow on trees about this country.
If you get an injector our for a sample, your local parts store will probably have something that will fit.
Take a magnet with you as there a lot of copper washers on the market which are actually copper colored steel (I wonder where they are made?) which will never seal as they won’t compress and let the components “bite” into them. A quick pass with a magnet will show if any of your copper washers defy all known properties of copper, and are magnetic 😃
Perhaps try a BMW forum?
Yep, you can only have one of them synced at a time.
My book says that RTC5679 "O ring petrol injector small" x 16 if that helps.
Mine just unscrewed at both ends quite easily. Use a flare nut spanner though.
Lugs are at 9 o’clock for reference. (You would expect them to be vertical so you can see them, but no).
As for oil coolers, might be worth starting with new O rings. Might be all it is.
Before doing any changes to the steering, set the box at centre as per the alignment marks on the box. then you can work out if it is the wheel that is off or the drag link length, or both. then you can sort them out.
If you don’t centralise the box, it is possible to over adjust it as, as it moves away from centre the back lash increases.
Quoted the wrong post!! :)