I found the same when I did the condenser on mine.. I put 2 bolts in and then cable tied the other side.

I also had a split on Tri pressure switch, so replaced that. New drier came with O-ring on the pressure switch port.

I bought a selection of AC o-rings from eBay as it was about the same for a pack of various sizes than it was for probably 2 individual ones in a land rover bag

Depends on the year..

Won't be cruise control as that doesn't use manifold vacuum , it has its own vac pump for that.

If it's a Thor, then alternator bearings are known to whine, I don't think I've heard one yet that doesn't at least whine a bit.

Also known issues on tensioner bearings, and also the idler pulley a on the front of the engine.

Does it do it with vehicle stopped/ in park/neutral?

If you're getting -3 at the vent, then you have a problem, possibly with the evaporator temp sensor. The system is designed to click off the AC when the evaporator gets to around 3/4 degrees C to prevent it from freezing up.

I did a full LED conversion on mine, and it is definitely visible in daytime if I switch the side lights on.

Easiest way would be to intercept the red/white wire at the BECM and then power it off a separate switch, with diodes in the wiring to protect the BECM output

gordonjcp wrote:

Mine can with the A bar, light guards and side steps already on it. I think they make it look a bit more like the rugged offroader that it can be, rather than just a pavement princess

Some dents and bush pinstripes will do that just as well, without adding extra weight :-D

I've got those too!

I think the P38 looks a bit baked without anything extra
Mine can with the A bar, light guards and side steps already on it. I think they make it look a bit more like the rugged offroader that it can be, rather than just a pavement princess (how many L322's do you see with any of the option extras?!?)

Being short I find the side steps useful, have almost come to rely on them, and always find ones without them a lot higher to get into!

I managed to snag some Piano Black wood for my interior trim, and between that and the Oxford leather seats (yes, they are comfier!) With uprated seat heaters, the interior is a nice place to be!

I was worried that changing the carpet for black and doing the headlining in black would make the interior too dark, but the contrast with the lightstone leather is nice. I haven't found these seats too bad in summer, but working air conditioning for a change also helps!!

Hopefully will get my factory winch tray fitted this year... Especially as I managed to snap up a factory winch tray cover...

There's probably non-use writing anything more here from my point of view.... It's all been said already...

I have zero to compare with... I've only ever personally owned and driven P38s... I'm on my 3rd now, first was a '95, then a '98 and now the current '01 Vogue. All have been 4.6's, with the current one on LPG.

Part of the reason I've never owned anything else is because I just haven't found anything that grabs me as much. As other have said - the styling is bang on, it drives pretty nicely.. the odd vibration at various speeds annoys me (but then I was in a Ford Galaxy as a passenger and it was REALLY shaky on the motorway!) And every time I give mine a bit of right foot, the smile factor is there...

I've just recently spent £1500 on having the transmission rebuilt as it felt a bit slippy... And granted it's being a pain and I've had to take it back, but am I considering throwing in the towel and getting something else? Hell no.. once it's sorted, it's good to go for another 20 years hopefully...

Even when I add up how much I have spent on it over the years... I can't think of anything else I'd rather own, or would have preferred to spend the money on.

Maybe there is hope for me getting my other 2 restored and sold for s reasonable price!!

Ahh, looking at the O2 sensors on Island 4x4 the standard econoseals are used from '95-97... '97 - 00 do use something else, and no idea what they are!

I'll have to look at my '98 the next time I'm at the workshop and see if I can identify them.. my guess is still a Tyco/Amphenol connector of some description

Put a picture up so I can be sure...

But I believe GEMS sensors used a 4 way econoseal connector for the O2 sensors... Thor used something different.. possibly Sumitomo from memory.

The econoseal connectors are fairly easy to get hold of.. again, I believe they are the 040 series.

Hope this helps,
Marty

I reset the adaptive values for the gearbox once I got home, as I had a look through them and they hadn't been done.

I went out briefly yesterday evening and checked the pressure values again when I got home, and the only one to have changed much is the US 2-3 value is now reading 244. Everything else is either 0 for most of the values, and a couple are reading 3

Coming to a slow/coasting stop with minimal/even braking has it show up more, but coming swiftly to a stop, it still happens but not as noticeable.

I'm guessing I'm going to have to find time to take it back (it's about 1hr 15 drive from home to the place that did it, but took me 3 hrs on public transport to get there to pick it up!) and get them to look at it... I'll get the guy to jump in with me and I can then make it do it for him, and he can hopefully diagnose it

Ah shit :(

I was also wondering how he was doing - I emailed him after hearing about the cancer, and he seemed in good spirits when I heard back from him. He'll be missed around here for sure. I hope his P38's end up with nice owners who put as much time, effort, care, and attention into them as he did.

If we manage to have a summer camp meet up this year, then we'll definitely have a drink in his honour!

RIP OB

So, long story short - I've just had my transmission reconditioned whilst I was away working last week. Picked the RR up today, and drove it home.

Seems to behave ok, and definitely has more poke than before, so there was some noticeable wear in the old one!

But, the kicker... just as I was getting near to home (was about 50miles to get back) when I slowed down, I would get a fairly hard change and a 'clunk' when shifting down between 3rd - 2nd. I could replicate it on both auto driving, and bringing the selector manually down the gears and forcing it to change. Sometimes it's a bit of an low clunk - other times fairly solid sounding, and even a lurch.

Going up the gears seems to be fairly well ok, and it's only on the 3 - 2 downshift the issue occurs.

I've called the garage about it and they've said to drive it for a couple of days to see if it gets better, but otherwise I'm going to have to take it back, which is a pain around work and travels - so not going to get the chance to take it back until about 11th July! I also was supposed to be driving up to Liverpool for work at the start of next week, but not this has happened I'm going to have to look at alternative means, as I don't want to possibly damage the box at all!

Any thoughts of simple things I can check that might have a bearing on it? I'm going to double check fluid level tomorrow, and also silly things like prop shaft UJ's and bolts etc.

Slightly annoying given the cost of getting it done - but hey ho...

Marty

If I get my arse into gear, and order the parts, I could possibly do an instructional on heated seats... I'm going to replace the elements in my '98 I'm restoring with new ones, and the seats are loose in the vehicle at the moment, so could do them over the weekend too and then others can actually see how everything comes apart.

So after the last couple of years of doing a bit of a meet up of P38 owners from various parts of the country (I think Morat still holds the record for coming from Yorkshire!) I haven't really had much time with work, and the rest of life going a bit crazy this year to put much thought into any of it.

As it was mentioned in one of the other threads, I figured I'd start a fresh thread for anyone to register their interest in it possibly happening again this year..
Last year was a group buy on headlinings, and re-trimming a number of them over the weekend - followed by Sloth giving me a hand swapping the modulator block on my RR long into the night!

I'm not sure what people would want to get done this year - I'm getting my RR back from transmission garage tomorrow, as I've just had the autobox pulled out and reconditioned, so there isn't really much major on the list of things that I want to do on mine. If I get around to it, then I might start looking at getting a winch, and then I can finally fit the factory winch tray that's been sitting in the garage for the last 3 odd years! But I'm also happy to help out others with things they want looking at - electrical is my speciality! Though I have tools for doing ball joints, pressing out/in radius arm bushes and the likes aswell.

If you're interested, then leave a reply below - with anything that you would like to try and get done... and also when suits. I'm only really free the weekend of 28th/29th July and 4th/5th August at the moment - though could possibly go 18th/19th August too.

Marty

I think there is some confusion here about lock and latch.

The door lock, in the handle looks like the bit that has broken. The back half of the lock, and the cast piece which had the arm on it that moves the rod (that's connected to the latch) can be removed - there's a roll pin which holds the back half in place (it's spring loaded so be careful when removing it!). The last one I did, I wasn't able to extract the roll pin, so cut the corner off the back piece to allow me to remove it. I then drilled/tapped a new hole on the opposite side and used a small machine screw on reassembly to hold it in place.

The latch (where the microswitches are and the rods connect to) shouldn't rattle that much - but I have seen some of them where internal plastic parts have broken and caused things to float about in there. Again I think at this point it's pretty unlikely to be the problem, given the state of the door lock.

I'll start a new thread about a possible summer camp. End of July/start of August might be possible - I've had an enquiry about some work in mid July, which will take me out of the picture for another week or so.

If it's got a date sticker on if of 2014 - then it's only 4 years old, and I'd hazard a guess to say the latch is actually OK.... I have a test sheet that will show you the expected results from testing the microswitches with a multimeter, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say your only issue is probably that key barrel.

I would look at getting a replacement drivers door handle, and then removing the back half of the door lock and swapping it onto yours (that way the barrrel part with all the wafers in it, will stay the same and your key blade will still work).

Between that and the other rod that goes to the actual door handle pull looking a bit worse for wear (might be the angle of the picture though), I wouldn't be surprised if that sorts it.

If you're feeling brave, you should be able to just order a whole new door handle/lock assembly from Land Rover, to your VIN number, which will come with the new lock/cylinder/arm and be set up for your key blade.

@Oldshep - probably not doing a Summer Camp this year. If I do, it will be later in July, as I'm busy until end of the first week, and I really need to get a move on and dedicate some time to getting some of the work done on my project P38's!

Out of interest, who is interested in a Summer Camp this year?

Welcome...

Looks like a bit of a project alright, but they are appreciating in value, and they are still lovely to drive once the niggles are sorted!

Where in the South West are you? I do a fair bit with the electrical/electronics side of things and can probably give it a look over for you at some point if you like.

The key spinning is a sure sign that someone has snapped the arm off the back of the key barrel. DON'T go getting another lockset and changing everything, as it's just going to complicate things in the longrun. The back of the key barrel (where the arm should be!) can be swapped from another door handle with a bit of work - I did one for another owner awhile ago.

Latch might be OK, but can be worth swapping as a preventative thing as I'm seeing a lot of the later model ones start to have latch issues now. But in your case - at least at the moment - the key barrel is the main issue as turning the key in the lock isn't actuating the latch like it should.

Also - if you're planning on keeping it for awhile, then it's worth saving up and investing in a Nanocom - having your own diagnostics will more than pay for itself pretty quickly, and you then have it 24/7 aswell!

Marty

hmmmm... a 10K NTC sensor shows that the temp at 1.6K should be between 70-75 degrees C.

So I'm not quite sure what range sensor you should need.... Let us know what the replacement sensor does!!

You can get a 47ohm NTC sensor - the resistance they are labelled as is for an ambient temp of 25 deg C

You could have a play about with it and temporarily wire a 100K pot in place of the thermistor.... then varying that should make the temperature vary on the display. when you hit 25 degrees... measure the resistance with a multimeter and you should have a reasonable punt at what the normal NTC sensor should be...

It probably is a 5v system to the sensor, I wouldn't worry about that too much.

What will make the difference is what value NTC sensor it is. Most of them are a 10k, but it will depend on what the sensor head unit is expecting, as you can get different variations.

I'm on my phone at the moment, but will get my laptop out a bit later and will find a couple of web pages which show different temp values vs resistances for NTC sensors and might be able to match up to what the system is expecting..