I had all the bits bought to do it a few years ago, and it's been fitted and running for well over a year now.

I'm not regretting it - it works, the injectors seem to do the job.. well, far better than the cheap Valteks I had before anyway! And other than feeling a little bit more sluggish that petrol when pulling away at speed (like in the 50-70mph range) the map is now pretty good, and I don't get the fuel trims being dragged out of line and messing with my idle!!

Yeah, the magic of hindsight...

Because I was always away for work at the time, and trying to get it all done in the various times I'd had at home, and sometimes purchasing parts, but then not being able to work on fitting for months, by the time I went to make a start on fitting everything, and then finding just how tight it is under there, I was at the point where I couldn't return the injectors I'd bought, and would have made a fair loss on selling them second hand (even though they were as new)... so decided to just make it work!

If I were doing it again, I'd go for exactly what you've posted up! Would make life far easier!

no10chris wrote:

Take lots of pics, especially the injector side, if I remember correctly, Marty tried the injectors under the bananas, but went back to up on top, I don’t know about all injectors, but mine have a screw on the end which I presume is some sort of adjustment, I’m looking at doing the lower injector point, I’ve adapted a upper manifold already, I hydro cleaned, looks like new, don’t know if I want to paint,,

I ended up going with injectors under the bananas. I used the rails of 4 Hana Gold injectors, but had to modify the wiring side of things to get them to fit, as the plugs stuck up too high. I cut the plugs off with a dremel, and soldered wiring on, and back to another connector, which I then put on the LPG loom side aswell. Saving the 15mm - 20mm odd from cutting the plugs off and not having the loom plugged in there meant that the injector rails fit under the bananas, and the hoses to the lower inlet were no longer than about 100mm long (probably shorter)

I've got some pictures of it somewhere - I'll try and dig them out and post up what I did.

If I were doing it again, and hadn't spent the money on injectors, then I'd probably go with a matrix injector.

Yes, in theory you can just wire the left/right into the DSP amp. Some people say that you need to turn the volume all the way up on the factory system before disconnecting, but I've never worked on one with a fully functioning DSP system before disconnecting it, so can't tell for sure!

You will lose the front to rear fade ability, as this will be done on the head unit, rather than in the DSP amp as the factory system does.

Bosch were the OEM to land rover... and aftermarket ones never seem to read quite properly. It's definitely a false economy buying aftermarket ones, as they won't last!

Pull fuses and see what causes it to drop... is it factory stereo or aftermarket?

except it didn't have the 'connolley' leather, or whatever they're talking about... the leather on those seats is the bog standard '3 bar' seats the early ones had... nothing special there...

Tapping when hot = new block with top hat liners... yeah.. bit more proof needed first before just condemning something...

All in all, looks to me that it's written by someone who has bought one, aware of their reputation, and whilst going on about the various 'problems' they all have, doesn't actually have one with those issues themselves...

They got one thing right though... they are manageable to repair...

I bought the tool that Chris linked to, to be able to do mine.

It presses the old bushes out, and then I pressed the new ones into the reducer sleeve, and then when into that, lined it up with the radius arm bush hole, and pressed it all the way in.

Easy, and didn't take me long to do all 4 bushes on both arms.

sunroof... from memory... take the motor off with the sunroof in the closed position, and run it as if you're moving the sunroof back. Wait until it stops. Then run it forwards as if you're closing it and wait until it stops again. That's then at the 'sunroof closed' position.

If it never stops, then chances are a microswitch (which is in the motor assembly - probably replaceable, but I've never looked that closely) might be faulty and stopping it from detecting that it's closed.. Again, from memory, there are 2 microswitches that trigger at 90degree intervals of the motor turning so the BECM can count how many revolutions (and thus how far open the sunroof is) - and which direction the sunroof has moved in (by which one has triggered first, and which one was second). If one of these fails, then it has no way of telling how far it's moved and in what direction.

it's work trying to reset the motor first though.

Mine weren't picked up on the MOT either - but made a large difference to the wandering.

I haven't done the panhard bushes on mine yet, but the other think that made a noticeable difference for me was the radius arm bushes..

Ah, I'm guessing you went for the 10pc one then...

I went with the 21pc one as I was unsure if the 10pc one had all the bits I needed to do the job, and from memory - after doing it, I found that there were a couple of useful bits (like the smaller bushings) that were quite useful.

I'd try a decent impact socket or something over the taper of the ball joint instead of the flat adapter, as I'm sure that when I've done them there hasn't been enough meat on the ball joint to just use the flat one.

I've never had a problem using the screw press to get them out/in. I've done 5 or 6 of them now, and never had one that tight (well, not the ball joints... hubs/knuckles are another matter!)

My first observation is that with the adapter plate you're using on the bottom, it looks like it is just hard up against the bottom of the knuckle, and the top is obviously compressing. To me it looks like you're just pressing against the knuckle and that's why nothing is moving.

I used one of the smaller diameter bushings that I've circled in red in this image (it's hard to remember from the picture which one it was - but it was one of the thinner ones), directly onto the bottom of the C clamp to press the joint out. It then slides up over the taper, and will probably destroy the rubber dust cover etc - but as they're coming out and being replaced, it doesn't matter. The pressure point to get the top ones out is up inside the knuckle, and with the adapter you're using I don't think it has the reach on the internal diameter to press up far enough, and as mentioned above - I'm pretty sure you're just forcing the C clamp apart as the pressure is going against the solid metal knuckle - not the ball joint.

To do up the clamp, I use a socket and a 4ft breaker bar... even on the one which most the most of a pain to get undone, I've not got close to needing that much pressure it looks like in the picture to get it to crack free.

Edit: looking at the picture again, I'm sure I used a wider receiving cup on top of the knuckle too - I'm sure the one I used was about the same diameter as the knuckle...

Seems to be the season for aircon issues...

I replaced the condenser and dryer on mine last year - noticed green dribble around the trinary switch on the dryer housing... typical. Still need to order a replacement trinary switch - but no doubt I'll need to get it re-gassed or topped up at the very least. It passed a nitrogen test aswell when I got it re-gassed last year too!

Factory colour is supposedly 'Mist Grey'

We went with Oatmeal for the people who wanted as close to Factory as possible. I believe it was the consensus, and it seems to look pretty close. Personal preference though!

I'll take you for a ride in mine at some point ;)

Well, once I've sorted the flat tyre that my neighbour kindly messaged me about the other day as a 'heads up' before I come home.. Guess I'll be out with the compressor when I'm back to see if it has just gone flat over the last 6 weeks of sitting there, or whether there is actually a puncture.

Next on my list after that is to do the transmission, as I am sure it's struggling and there's more of a whine than there used to be... Thought I'm hoping to put that off until June as I've got more work away before then

I have the drilled/slotted discs, and I put EBC Ultimax pads on and had squeal for a long time - still get it occasionally... I'm going to swap to Mintex pads the next time, but the discs seem pretty good.

Clicky Pedal doesn't necessarily mean 'certain death'... it might go on for years with no troubles at all...

That being said, if you get a reply, will you let me know how much they are? I am interested in one to put in my '98 restoration P38 - and happy to combine an order with you if it's OK... might save a bit in shipping if we split it

+1 On billing...

I don't know what work is like around that time yet, but assuming I'm free and the RR is still behaving, then I'm in.

I use impact drivers, and drills all the time for work on exhibition stands.

I've got the 18V DeWalt XR Lithium Ion version years ago and they are still going strong. I don't use the impact driver much on vehicular bits, as I'm more worried about snapping the adapters I have.

I think the impact driver goes up to about 180Nm at full rattle - but primarily used for hanging screen brackets on walls. Again, like Sloth says - it has variable speed trigger, and for most things doesn't even start hammering, some of the guys have the 10.8V Makita's, which are easier to transport, but you can always hear when they're trying to do something as they are sound like a bunch of woodpeckers hammering away.

At home though, for 'normal' DIY, then the 10.8V version or a lot of brands would probably do the trick, as you don't need stupid power, or things like that. If you are planning on using on the car, then something with a bit more grunt for some bolts would be handy - but then as mentioned already, an actual impact gun with a 1/2" shank, rather than the more 'domestic' hex socket would be better.

My 0.02 :)

Yes, that is the real deal... Cheaper than a new one still...

And as I've said to a few owners about them - it all comes down to how much the vehicle is used, how much you like having to put it on charge, and possible replace the battery ever year or 2 if it keeps draining, vs the up front initial cost of a receiver.