I'd leave it - even if the limit switch 'isn't the strongest item' - it's still been there for nearly 17 years minimum! So even if you replaced it for a new one, I'd say it would be good for another 17+ years...
Adding a manual switch is probably more of a pain to do and get working properly than calling that fixed and moving on to other things.
It could just be that one of the connections was dirty, and unplugging/replugging the wires has got a good connection again, or it could be the switch was a bit misaligned, and removing/replacing it has got it aligned properly again, and all working as it should.
Brakes - were new discs fitted too? or just pads?
Cruise control... if it's a petrol, then check/replace all the vacuum pipes. Also check connector in LH front footwell, behind the kick panel.as the wires from the cruise ECU to the vacuum pump go through one of those connectors (which are known to corrode).
If it's GEMS Petrol, and none of those sort it, then it could be the ECU as they were known to fail randomly - usually due to dry solder joints on the PCB
As far as I know, all the diesel vehicles have the battery clamp, cable to fuse box, the extra one to the glow plug timer/relay unit and then one cable to the starter, which then has another cable from the starter to the alternator charge point.
The part number for the later diesels for the positive cable (which probably includes the battery clamp) is YTA101690
Though the easiest solution is probably to chop the old battery terminal off, and replace it with one which has a threaded stud on it, and then crimp a new ring terminal onto the +ve cable that goes to the starter/alternator.
Any (decent) auto electrician should be able to crimp a terminal on without much trouble.
the BECM should be fine if the battery is disconnected - as long as the vehicle is unlocked/alarm disarmed when the power is disconnected, then it should power back up in that same state.
The only one with a square o ring is the diaphragm solenoid at the back of the valve block.
All the others should seal up with the round o-rings on the top of the solenoid.
If you've gone with the orange o-rings, then no they don't seal properly. Kits with standard black o-rings seem to seal better, but even they appear to vary between supplier.
As mentioned - door locks doing their own thing is usually an iffy microswitch,
Light issues... Yes, could be the BECM - but is does seem odd that it works sometimes, and then starts giving problems just when it starts raining.
That being said, if the BECM has moisture in it, then it could just be a power board issue. The logic board is actually covered in a (somewhat) protective lacquer, whereas the power board has nothing - and it isn't uncommon for me to find a bit of surface corrosion on ones that I work on. Sometimes a few shots of electrical cleaner, and a scrub from an old toothbrush is enough to clean it up.
That being said, if there was moisture/corrosion in the BECM then I'd be expecting there to be other issues, but it would be easy enough to check by popping the lid off the BECM and having a look at the board.
I still think it's a connection issue somewhere, rather than a BECM fault - but it's not impossible!
Who knows...
It looks like a spoof to me.
I know of a way of doing it, just don't have the programming brains to be able to make it work. But you wouldn't just be able to solder it onto the 3 terminals like that - you would have to cut the data wire, feed it into the additional circuitry, and then wire the output of that to the RF wire.
It would be just as easy to make an 'inline' plug and play module which goes inbetween the RF receiver and the vehicle loom.
I know of a way of filtering out the P38 key fob transmissions, so it would just be a case of building a circuit that does that filtering and the passes the transmission on, only if it meets the criteria.
I think it should be possible to do fairly cheaply and easily, but I don't have the coding skills required to make something to do it, that also has a small standby current so it isn't adding much drain to the system.
It is collection in person only from stockport...
So would only take about 30s to open to see if it was worth the trip or not
I don't have the DSP amp - it was missing when I first bought the RR. I have recently just fitted one of my DSP amp replacement boards in which uses the standard 'high line' amps.
All that is required for most systems with the amps in the doors is the attenuator circuit on each channel to match the amplified outputs from a head unit device to the amplifier input levels.
If you have the lowest line spec with no amps in the doors, then you can just plug the ISO into the head unit as most of the Android devices have an amplifier chip in them.
I've read of one owner who has used the RCA Line level outputs from the Android, via balancing transformers to the door amp inputs, as the P38 amplified systems uses balanced audio feeds, rather than standard unbalanced line level outputs from the RCA connectors.
Would have to find out some more details as to exactly what your vehicle has fitted at the moment, to be able to let you know exactly what is required...
Cheers,
Marty
From what I understand the seized VC symptoms is scrubbing on the front wheels, yet you mention rear inside wheel...
Do the VC test in the youtube video if you don't have the front prop off - if it's seized the wheel won't turn.
Cool, thanks..
I'll send one back once I've had a look at the one coming back, to make sure nothing more sinister is happening and will get one sent back to you next week before I head away for work.
I did a 'health check' on one I fitted for another owner a couple of weeks after doing yours, and it's still running strong, and put a pressure gauge on it and still easily got above 160psi. So hopefully it's just an isolated issue... Incidentally the old one I replaced for the other owner was also a Dunlop one, which wasn't that old!
I don't see how a seized VC can blow through a diff in a month - unless there was something wrong with the first replacement one that you got.
The following youtube videos are a good way of testing the VC - driving around in circles on full lock is one way, but I still get the occasional scrubbing/squealing from my tyres on tight corners (in parking garages etc) and I checked my VC not so long ago, so know it isn't seized.
Might be worth getting the garage to try this just to be sure.
I don't necessarily need the rebuild kit - feel free to keep it as spare for the future! If you don't want it, and it makes it's way into the box, then that's fine too.
Let me know what the postage cost is, and I'll reimburse you - or take it off the cost of the door latch I have here for you or something like that!
Relay - 20/30/40A any should be fine, as I think the EAS feed is fused at 10A in the underbonnet fuse box.
if it's possible, just send me the faulty one back. I have others here, so can send you a replacement. I'd like to investigate it more to see if there is a bigger issue at play.
I've got KV85's on my Thor - have had them on there for the past couple of years, and been happy with them.
Expensive, yes - but they should last!
Hmm, can you send me a pic of the inside when you do?
If the seals etc are sub-par then I will need to look at finding another supplier, as 3 odd months isn't really decent for a rebuild kit to last... The ones I've put in my RR have lasted nearly 5 years now, (though I do want to swap them out sooner rather than later) and I'm sure they were from the same supplier. Though mine are definitely working harder now!
Has the seal just worn out on it? Have you taken the top off it to see what the state is inside?
Silly question, but how long will winter tyres last in the summer? Isn't it a bit of a false economy if you end up having to swap the winter tyres for more of an all-year tyre in 6 months or so?
A set of Pirelli Scorpion Zero (only using them for comparison as a lot of RR's came with Scorpions from the factory) tyres in 255/55/R19 is still nearly £140/corner. And by the time you've got spigot rings and wheel nuts, even with £165 for wheels/tyres - you're probably near on the price of 2 1/2 18" tyres as it is.
Regardless - the choice is yours. All I can suggest on spigot rings, is to not go for plastic ones - get metal. I've read on a few forums where the plastic ones have just ended up cracking and either need replacing or can cause weird vibrations, whereas the metal ones hold up better!
Gilbertd wrote:
Try publishing the video so we can see it......
Hmm, for some reason it was set to Private... changed the permissions now, so should be viewable.
Spent a couple of nights up in Yorkshire recently, and had a great time!
Was nice to cruise about in the RR - especially when coming to a flooded road along our route. When we came back the other way, the road was actually closed to all traffic, so was lucky to give the underside of the RR a clean in one direction at least! Suspension up to wading height and carry on!... saw the Citroen thing in the rear view mirror decide to turn around as I was heading off down the road.
My lovely co-pilot took a video of us going through it:
Flooded Road in P38
Then decided to take a cruise up and over a couple of the mountains, and managed to get a few pictures on the way up... most of them don't show it, but it was chucking with rain and blowing a gale... I didn't mind though, made the drive more interesting!
As you can see in the last picture, you can just pick out the sideways rain in the headlights!
I'll have a look and see how good the recording was on the dashcam, but managed to attack some pretty big puddles in the road too - think a couple of times I managed to splash the roof!
Marty
Looks like Donald Trump in the driver's seat of that P38 in the crusher... where was that pic from?
Can tell it wasn't originally AA yellow, but red, going by the sides of the tailgate. And I'm guessing a vinyl wrap.
Glad it's all sorted and running again as it should do!
Did you get my email re: door latch Morat?