Possibly - but from memory, the throttle body heater and it's return hose are 8mm...

Which even if you have 10mm on the vapouriser, I would be really wary about the flow through 8mm hose being enough to stop the vap from freezing up.

My Zavoli Vapouriser has 16mm hose connections, and I don't have an issue with that in parallel to the heater matrix. I get good cabin heat, and never had the vapouriser freeze up - it's always too hot to touch!

If you've wired in door amps and removed the DSP, then turning up to full means nothing. That is apparently what to do if you are putting an aftermarket head unit in with a DSP amplifier.

As Sloth says.. check for the permanent 12V and ground at all the door amps.
Check the grey/black wire is getting 12v at all the amps when the head unit is powered up.
If you are using the factory head unit, then make sure there are no attenuators plugged in, as the factory head unit outputs the correct line level signal, so attenuating that will probably give you nothing at the amps.

Also double check all the wiring pins at the amp connectors.

Post a couple of pictures up too, might aid in troubleshooting from afar..

I have a print copy of the workshop manual, but I would be interested in a printed copy of the Electrical Troubleshooting Manuals...

For me, in a ring binder/folder is fine - doesn't have to be an actual bound/book style. I agree that it's then easier to reprint the odd page here and there as and when required!

Internal diameter of the factory hoses is pretty much 19mm, and a lot of lpg systems use 16mm I'D.

You might be able to get brass 19-16-19 T pieces, and then run 16mm pipe to the vaporizer. I'm sure you can get 19mm equal T's though. Lpgshop.co.uk have a good range of them in brass etc. And are usually cheaper than eBay sellers.

I'm happy to host things at the workshop - it seems (somewhat) central to people from the group, though I'd be happy to travel elsewhere too - whatever is best for everyone.

In some ways (I know the logistics/cost of it are more involved) it would be nice if we could do a long weekend to make it more worthwhile trying to get things done, and maybe we could then undertake somewhat bigger projects for people too. (Like ball joints, radius arm bushes etc?)

I would also be interested in trying to get to some Land Rover shows... between us all we have some nice P38s that scrub up pretty well, and it would be good to show them off and give them some good press!

Merry Christmas to all...

My P38 did 90odd miles to London yesterday like a champ! After having pretty much left it for the best part of 6 weeks whilst I've been away working.

Got a fair few miles to do over the next couple of weeks, and looking forward to cruising some motorways in the nice leather armchair :)

On my android head unit I took the reverse and handbrake signals from wiring on the front of the BECM, and then ran it up under the carpet into the space behind the head unit. I put a separate 2 pin connector on the wiring I ran, and the 2 wires from the head unit so that it should be taken apart a bit easier, should I need to remove the whole thing for any reason in the future (like upgrading the head unit).

Also on mine, I can program some of the functions to a short and a long press - (not possible with volume up/down though, but most other functions can be either programmed for a short/long press) which is handy as it means I can have 8 functions with only the 5 buttons on the steering wheel.

If it's an android head unit then the steering wheel control wire just goes to SW1. The controls themselves are all programmed in the software, so it obviously measures the voltage drop on the wire when each button is pressed and records that against the action you want it to do.

I didn't mention anything about joining the front corners together... +ve and -ve in my previous post are the main 12v (+ve) and ground (-ve) wires in the vehicle loom to the DSP amp.

So:
Split +ve (12v), - ve (ground) and 'wake up' 4 ways, one to each amp.
Yes, front left/right +ve/- ve are inputs for 2 amps, no splitting required.
Run 4 extra wires for rear left/right +ve/- ve inputs to the other 2 amps
Subwoofer input/output wires from DSP connector get cut and joined together (Orange to orange, orange/black to orange/black) to feed sub amp direct from head unit.

If you go aftermarket head unit then just need to put a Phono connector on the subwoofer wires at the head unit end to plug into the green connector.

I'd also recommend making up attenuators and using the amped outputs of an aftermarket head unit for the 4 doors, as it will reduce chances of whine that you're likely to get using the aux outs of an aftermarket head unit.

I've got EBC Ultimax on mine... won't be using them again. Squeaky on the rears sometimes, even 5 years on, and took ages to bed in.

They do seem to last pretty well.. got 25k on them and still plenty of meat... I'd rather change them more often though and have something that is a bit of a softer pad and that doesn't squeal on the rears.

Place I went to about them (thought it was disc runout) said that the pads were more race spec ones and a pretty hard compound, and more suited for sports car than 4x4.

I'm planning on going mintex when I change mine next

Yes,

I do all the connections in the loadspace where the DSP amp lives. I cut that connector off, and then wire the replacement amps in at that end of the vehicle as all the wiring is in one place

As you've got the connectors and pins, you could crimp the pins directly onto the wires and out them in the connectors for the amps.

You'll need to join the +ve, -ve, and 'wake up' wires together from each amp into the one wire that's in the loadspace. Other than that, and running 4 extra wires to the head unit connector for the rear left/right input feeds, it's pretty just matching wires to pin locations on connectors.

I'm my website, I have a very handy 'Premium Audio System' wiring download... big spreadsheet I did 5 odd years ago when I was trying to figure out all the wiring at the DSP amp etc.

Might be worth downloading, as I've got all the pin number, wire colours, and description of what each pin does... May make it a bit easier to figure out than trawling RAVE!

I've got a 4 pin rear diff fitted to the front of my 01.

There was a 2 pin in it when I took it out, and from how much of a job to get the hubs off, I don't think it had ever been changed before. SA don't think the later ones were ever fitted with 4pin from the factory.

I don't get any more noticeable whine from it being cut the other way.. my whine comes from the transmission itself I've concluded.

I've had the diff fitted for over 5 years/ 25k miles now and at last fluid change there was no more filings/ metallic gunge on the magnetic drain plug than the rear diff did.

Another silly question...

Has it got 2 washers on it? From memory there should be one under the head of the bolt and one between pipe and box. I'm presuming there are 2 already, but if three isn't then that could potentially be a cause for leak

Shame - if you'd been in touch with me about the HEVAC's, I could have sorted something out.

Hopefully the ribbons are easy enough to change - if they are the actual replacement ribbon cable, then you need a soldering iron with a special attachment to melt the adhesive of the ribbon to stick it to the glass and the PCB. I tried a couple of options like that before I decided on the new connectors and it just got messy. I guess once you've done one and got the technique down, the second one should be a piece of cake!

My guess (without pulling them apart) is that the NRV's are only 2 parts (3 if you count the spring).

The first part being the central shaft and the tip with the groove for the O-ring which form the valve itself, and the second being the square brass back piece.

If you could make replacements for the valve assemble then in theory the rest of it should be re-usable. If looks to me on the originals that all it is is the spring and back piece are slid onto the shaft and then this is crimped flat at the end to stop the bits from flying off.

In theory you could just cut the end off to get the brass piece and the spring off, and then just slide them onto a new valve assembly, crimp the end in a vice (for example) and done.

The hardest/precision bit would be turning the valve assembly in a lathe as it's so small! I don't think there is a groove or anything on the back of the valve head for the spring to sit in - I think it just presses against the flat surface.

If it's really that good, then buy it for 500, flip it for 1500-2k and spend that on a recon engine from V8 Dev.

Unfortunately my interest stops here. I'm too much in the 'keep as many p38s running as possible ' camp to support breaking one as good as what it sounds like this one is.

Passive immobilisation also will kick in after the time out period if the vehicle has been running, shut the engine off, and then open the drivers door.

If the passive immobiliser is enabled, then in theory the vehicle will recognise when the key it put in the ignition and the BECM will then activate the coil around the ignition, which pulses the key fob and tells it to then transmit an unlock code - seamlessly letting you start the vehicle again.

However, if you have a fault with the coil, or the key fob then it doesn't send the unlock code, and that's what causes the "Engine Disabled, Press Remote Or Enter Code" message. In a case where you have a working fob but the coil is faulty (as I had on my RR until I turned off the passive immobiliser) then pressing the unlock button on a synced fob will then trigger another unlock and turn the immobiliser off and let you start the vehicle. In a case where the fob is faulty (ie, in your case) then you can't press the button on the remote, as it isn't synced or working properly, so you have to enter the EKA.

Switching the passive immobiliser off - as Gilbertd mentions disables that auto timeout of re-immobilisation, so once it's unlocked, its mobilised and stays that way until the vehicle is re-locked.

As another note - if you get the fob repaired, then you DON'T need to re enable the passive immobiliser for the remote to work. I've had it turned off on mine for the last 5 years and both my remote fobs will sync up and work with no problems. There have been a few noted cases where fobs that won't sync with the vehicle (when they are known to be good) have been made possible to sync by temporarily turning the passive immobiliser back on - but there is no solid evidence as to why this works. I suspect it might have something to do with the RF memory in the BECM, and wonder if just clearing that will have the same affect - but haven't had time, or a spare vehicle with a fob that won't sync, to try it on.

But even if you have a vehicle with a fob that's already synced and turn the passive immobiliser off, it will still stay synced to the vehicle and work normally.

If this other one is as good as you say it is, why not buy it, run it for winter, so you can then investigate the other one properly?

You might find the tick is just something like a rocker, lifter etc..

You then fix your first one, and sell the other (good) one on ? Or maybe tart it up a bit and then sell it for a bit of a profit as a running vehicle, rather than spares/repair, which i gather it's listed as at the moment if the owner didnt think it ran...

Got the order, thanks. I'll get it shipped out when I'm back, so should be with you Thursday I would imagine.

Door latch, yes, January is fine for that - I'll be at home for most of the month (or at least that's what I'm planning/hoping for!) so can receive it back and get the core charge refunded to you ASAP.

I usually have a list of things to do either on my own RR, on my restoration RR's, or even just around the home - but everything invariably gets put off as/when work or things for other people come in! But hey, don't do today what you can put off until tomorrow, right? :)