Yes, I am aware it is a problem. If you 'request desktop version' it should work.

Regarding fixing it... I have been looking into options for awhile now - but it's something to do with the open cart framework I use as it is a complete e-commerce platform, and whilst there is support for it, I haven't really found a definitive solution yet.

I am also away at the moment as Sloth says, and not really home until the first week of January - so time is limited. How much business do I miss out on? I'm not sure - I keep an eye occasionally on site stats (it only has very basic logging of how many people are currently looking at the site) and the traffic isn't that high to start with. That being said, I don't promote it very much as I never know when I'm going to be away - and I don't always have items finished and in stock either.

EDIT as a temporary 'fix' I've managed to find a way to make it so the LH menu bar with all the categories in it appears in mobile view. I've just tried it and it appears above the content for the page, so a bit more scrolling might be required. The research I've found so far is that the framework I'm using doesn't natively have a mobile view layout - and there are various extensions it seems that range from $30US to about $100US to enable various forms or mobile browsing.

I get it occasionally too - I don't think it's anything serious to worry about. Especially if you disable the superlocking on the rear doors, then even if the latch does fail, then you can still manually unlock the door.

Though if you don't superlock the vehicle anyway, then it shouldn't superlock on it's own - so again should be able to open the door even in the event that the latch does stop working.

I think it's probably just the motor and clutch mechanism that causes the whine occasionally. Mine seems to do it more regularly when cold, but even then not all the time

I found Valtek Type 30 injectors weren't fast enough when I tried them on my P38 - it constantly felt sluggish, no matter what I did to the tuning.

The problem is also that if it's not able to inject the LPG quick enough, then it runs a bit lean, which the petrol ECU accounts for by richening it up, and so on and so forth until you get fuel trims maxed out, and running issues (usually at idle on petrol, mine showed up as after time.

The beeping when you floor is is most likely the gas ECU detecting low pressure and then switching back to petrol automatically whilst you accelerate. LPGC or GilbertD are more versed in that stuff than me though, and I'm sure they will be along soon to give more/better info

My '01 will sync with the passive immobilisation off. It should work on any P38. If you're having to start the vehicle with the EKA every time, then the passive immobiliser is already on anyway.

I am not sure why some of them start to sync again when the passive immobiliser is turned back on - but I'm wondering if it's actually just a case of clearing the RF memory in the BECM instead. It's also something worth trying.

The Key 1/2 thing will work, but the vehicle has to be Superlocked, and then lazy unlocked for a memory seat to move. It won't do it if you just standard lock the vehicle.

Don't say that... I'm hoping for £10K for my '98 with sub 84k miles on it when I'm finished with it...

Interesting... Mine comes up for renewal early January.

Currently with Admiral, and paying around £470/yr fully comp for mine...
Looking to switch, as they max out their NCB discount at 5 years (or at least did) - and coming up this will be the 6th year I've insured with them, so hence not expecting any form of additional discount - so going to shop around a bit more...

I'll definitely be checking out Mustard to see what they throw up..

Was there any brass swarf in the dryer unit?

If there is any that made it to the valve block, then I'd expect to see it only through the diaphragm solenoid area - as that's the only bit it goes through before it gets to the dryer - which from memory has the fairly thick filter screens - which should trap the rest.

It may be that none of it escaped from the compressor and into the block - but I wouldn't have wanted to risk it long-term, at least without an inspection first!

No, you can't turn off auto relock. It should relock after 60seconds if a door or the tailgate hasn't been opened.

As Gilbertd says - it's in case you've "pocket unlocked" (must be the earlier version of the more common "pocket dialing") by mistake, then it will relock the vehicle so it's secure.

Very interesting....

I think I need to find a time where I have someone else who can sit with the laptop and monitor LPG maps as I'm driving. Mine feels a little bit underpowered when I put my foot down, and I'm wondering if the map is set too rich as you mention, and needs leaning off a bit in places... but it's hard to tell that when you're trying to drive on your own and monitor the laptop too!

I will have to also have a look and see where the enrichment in acceleration slider is set on mine. I have a new King 'D' series ECU, so going from your notes, it should be fully sequential...

Cheers for the info LPGC!

Marty

You're missing having a P38 aren't you Ferryman?

That looks pretty broke to me.

There seem to be various versions of the 315 Compressor.

The P38 one appears to be a variant of the 315CDC56/12 which is rated to 150psi. Though interestingly the datasheet I found shows it as being a 15% duty cycle... though that does have a '*' by it with the note that this varies by application.

Distinguishing features? It's a standard P38 compressor... your Blue P38 probably has one, unless it's been changed for a Dunlop before - likewise with the Vogue SE - they never shipped from the factory with a Dunlop compressor, so if there's one in there then they are aftermarket. They seem to be all-black in colour, where the Dunlop version appears to be a silver piston block, and a black motor casing.

Interestingly Morat's failed one has a date stamp on the sticker of 03/14.. so it's only a few years old too.

The original compressors were made by Thomas Pumps in the USA

Apparently they are a slightly modified Thomas 315 compressor.

Dunlop, whilst they appear to be the OEM for the valve block, air springs and maybe driver pack, are actually an aftermarket manufacturer/supplier of air compressors.

It appears that Dunlop (believe it or not they aren't the OEM for the compressor!) in their wisdom used brass for the flywheel/weight on the compressor piston arm.

It has been ground out on the center and it looks like the back side of it in the middle too, and those shavings have gone everywhere.

I haven't worked out what caused the failure - whether it was a loose grub screw which then caused the motor to spin, catch it, get off balance etc. Or whether it happened from the other side. The armature has a couple of big lumps of resin on it - which I've never seem on one before - whether it was to try and balance it from the factory, who knows - but if it's actually caused it to run off balance, then it will have work the front bearing (which there is some play in) and the possibly vibrated the grub screw loose, and gouged out the brass.

The armature has also been scraping against the magnets in the body of the motor, hence all the black shavings in the last couple of pictures... either way - it's properly knackered

And according to his post on the other forum, he's having an EAS Blowout sale too..

I've stripped Miles' old compressor down, and it's totally toast. In fact, I would recommend doing a valve block rebuild job sooner, rather than later too...

That compressor is pretty much unrebuildable unfortunately - but I'm more worried by the fact that the outlet chamber in the head has all that brass swarf in it - which means that chances are there's a load of it that's gone into the valve block. With any luck it's only through the first bit/diaphragm solenoid area and then been caught in the EAS dryer, and not passed through that into the inlet side of the VB.

Either way, I think it's worth investigating....

I had the same, though the paper gasket that I had didn't quite fit that spout properly.

I had looked up the parts on my trusty parts website, and saw it was supposed to have an O-ring, so bought one as part of my engine build. But I get what you mean about the head gasket set. I wonder if it's for a GEMS or even a Classic.

Really? I drive 2 hours to help to get accused of not knowing how to put washers on a sodding air compressor.. thanks.

FYI I took the nuts and washers off in order and kept them together, up the same way as they came off the vehicle.

Morat,
It could be the vibration rubbers. They are new, and the correct part number, but if I'm honest, I'm not sold on them being better than the originals all the time.

If you want, I can pop the old ones off the old compressor and post them up to you, so you can try swapping them over if you like?

Back home now.

Seems my LPG map is probably bot quite there yet as I was getting misfiring at idle after starting up to leave... though it has taken about 5k to do it this time, so must be fairly close.

Pump... well, it makes a bit of a rattle... I might have tint to pull it apart on Sunday and have a look. If the yellow dust on the top of the pump when opening the EAS box is anything to go by, then I'd say there's very little seal left..

Morat... you joked about heading down this way and past me and to turn my phone off... But it isn't, and I haven't had a call...

Got a rebuilt air compressor sitting on the shelf too...

Flashing beside the gear change is usually a hi/lo transfer case thing rather than gearbox.

Does the dash show the correct gear selection? Does the gear shifter light correspond to the correct gear?

There is a microswitch in the H gate (buried a bit) which is what is triggered to then tell the transfer ECU to move between high/low range. I'd be checking that to see if it is being activated properly.

I would have thought that if it were XYZ switch, then you wouldn't have any gear feedback or it wouldn't match up on the indicator leds/dash to what gear you had selected