I've brimmed mine a couple of times before - when Tesco did their 'clubcard fuel save' or whatever they called it, and I had a couple of 10p/L off discounts to use...

In theory, it's about a 20 gallon tank... assuming an average of say 15mpg (I did get mine up to 22mpg on the dash, on petrol, on the motorway, with the new engine!) then that should give about 300 miles. If you could actually achieve say 20mpg (non stop motorway run maybe?) then that would put 400miles from a 20 gallon tank... so I'd conservatively say that you would be wanting to fill up from about 300-320 if it was brimmed and you weren't doing a solid motorway cruise!

My last LPG fill was 68L and I managed about 180/190 miles from it - giving me about 13.3mpg on gas (think it's tuned a bit rich at the moment!) and I was sitting in London traffic stop/start for about 2 hours, which won't have helped matters!

As Richard says - does the other interior lights work? They are all fed from F15, and then they are controlled in the BECM by a transistor/MOSFET - which also will likely have short circuit protection - so if none of the lights work then it could be there's a short still there somewhere.

If the rest of the interior lighting works, then has to be a break in the wiring between where the loadspace light wires splice off the main loom, and the connector.

If there was a spark and then nothing then it could be an internal break in one of the wires which from the outside looks fine, but there's no connection in the copper strands.

I found on mine that there was corrosion in the terminals at the boot lamp end, to the point where one of the wires had corroded out of the terminal.

Could be something along the same lines as what you've had happen, except with a spark as it's contacted the paintwork, or broken under load...

I've been through and tightened up a bit of security on my server, so that if someone was to go to my external IP address, before it would show up the main landing page of my web server admin page, it now shows up an old version of my website (for the time being).

As the directory structure has changed a bit some of my images in posts might now not show up as they aren't referenced properly.

As an interim measure - i've effectively 'doubled up' on my folder structure, but over the course of 'when I get a chance' I'll be going through and updating the links in my threads etc. I've started on the engine rebuild one, as it had the most pictures in it... but if you come across one that I've missed, and there's just a title where there should be an image, then let me know and I'll make sure it's updated...

Cheers,
Marty

On my server, I setup "WAMP" which is a web server program, that does http/php/apache etc - but once that's setup and attached to the network adapter/IP address of the server - whenever you navigate to the server IP address, then it will web serve on port 80 (standard http port). You can then have different directories in it's www folder.

I have a port forward/redirect on my router, so any incoming traffic to my ip address gets forwarded onto the local IP of the server. I can then reference that url to images etc and use that as the link in the images part of the forum.

Ahh, the joys of having a home server with fixed-IP internet connection, and a webserver running on it.. can copy paste items to the server drive, and then link to them whenever I want...

I guess the only downside is that if my server goes down for any reason, or the IP address does actually change for any reason, then they'll all disappear!

In short, no there isn't any other way to find directions out what key you currently have. Even if you got the lockset barcode from LR, you can then get that translated into the fob code that programs into the BECM, but as that's just the start ID for the lockset, it won't narrow down what actual key number you have.

Next time you are over this way, I'll try my checker on it and see what it comes back with

Keys are programmed to the vehicle in the factory, yes. So key 4 from another vehicle won't work with your vehicle, no. It could be programmed to work, but any other key(s) already programmed would then stop working.

A BECM is programmed to a lockset... each lockset consists of up to 4 keys, each with their own ID. The fob code programmed to the BECM is the ID for Key1 of a particular lockset. The becm will then accept that ID and the following 3.

Key 1 and 2 do relate to the seat positions on a vehicle with memory seats. You can save and recall the memory with the buttons on the side of the seat. If you superlock the vehicle, then 'lazy unlocking' it (press and hold fob button) will then move the seat to the preset number of the key used (1 or 2). Key 3/4 will just unlock the vehcile and won't move the seat.

You can't program multiple lockset to a vehicle, nor can you reprogram a key to work with another vehicle.

I have a fob tester, that will capture the fob code (usually) and from that, I can work out what key you have for your vehicle, and also what fob code should be stored in the BECM.

Sorry, I haven't contributed yet - been busy with other commitments and projects.

One thing that makes me wonder... is there a vacuum line from the manifold to the vapouriser?

I.maybbe way off the mark, but I would think that if this isn't connected, then you could end up with the vapouriser not increasing gas supply as it switches over, and especially under load...

I'll have a look at the pictures aswell, but seems like you have fairly sound advice so far :)

I haven't had a chance to look into how changing the various settings makes a difference to the user end of the security system...

I have heard that disabling the EKA will prevent the need for it being entered most of the time - however, if you can manage to get it into KEYCODE LOCKOUT showing on the dash, and the EKA is disabled, then you have no way of entering it, and the BECM would need to be sent off for resetting (That was something Rick from Callrova mentioned on another forum).

I haven't been able to test the theory, or test what differences there are between older/newer BECM models either - but most of the time turning off the passive immobiliser and the EKA seems to sort most of the headaches out... I keep the EKa enabled on mine as that's how it was from the factory, and b) I know the correct EKA, c) I can enter it with Nanocom - being a later model P38, and c) worst comes to worst... I know a guy with the equipment to reset it ;)

If you have locked it with the fob, but then unlocked it with the key, then it will ONLY open the drivers door until you've put the EKA code it.

As LR intended the vehicle to primarily be locked/unlocked with the remote fob, and the key in the door being the backup for that - I imagine that's why it does it. So if someone managed to get a copy of the key blade, they couldn't just walk up to it and drive off if you've locked it with the remote.

If you've locked it with the key, then it should unlock with the key and allow starting again (after it's been started/running etc)

Looking in my P38 'bible' there isn't actually a special edition called 'Ascot' in any of the model years.

I presume it's an HSE with maybe 'Ascot' coloured paint (can look up the paint code if you get it off the slam panel).

Yes, it was the Oatmeal colour from Martrim for the ones that were being re-done in as close to factory colour as possible..

I need to get a picture of mine actually, since it's all back in. Still need to do the sunroof shade - maybe tomorrow if it doesn't look like it's going to rain!

Nice pics Smiler... I'm the same - hardly ever remember to take pics when I'm working, unless it's to remember how to put something back together again!

Yeah, they are the ones from your '95 - if the drivers seat base is a bit past it, then the passenger seat base might be a candidate to swap for the drivers one.

Vehicle looks good overall, so once all the niggles are sorted out, should be able to make a bit on it when you go to sell it.

Sounds like it was also owned by someone who doesn't know about P38's!!

I've got a couple of grey seats in the workshop - I'm not 100% sure how good they are... but if you send me a picture of the one that's in there, I can have a look to make sure they are the same... even if the drivers base I have isn't great, the passenger one is probably OK and can be swapped over.

If the Lambda sensor is faulty and it's stinking rich on gas, then that also probably explains the MOT failure - but again, simple fix!

Just because it drives straight doesn't necessarily mean the tracking is correct - as when driving in a straight line, the front wheels will 'find' their center point, which will then offset the steering wheel one way or another. But if the wheels are tracking outside the tolerances specified in the workshop manual, then it will lead to excessive/uneven tyre wear, and possible strange handling at times, even though in a straight line it might be OK.

Assuming the tracking of the front wheels was set correctly by the previous owner - or whoever they took it to to be done, and is within the tolerances specified in the work shop manual, then the issue of the steering wheel center would either be in the connection between the steering box and the LH front wheel on the drag link (as the track rod will be holding the wheels at the correct value, and as the vehicle drives in a straight line, they find their centre point, and the adjustment of the rod to the steering box is a bit short, thus pulling the steering wheel to the left ). Or the steering wheel may at some point have been taken off and turned to line it up center (before the vehicle was re-tracked). Or the steering wheel is centered to the steering box still, and the drag link needs adjusting to get the steering box and wheel back to center.

The easiest way to see whether it's the steering box/wheel or drag link is to stop with the steering wheel centered, and check to see if the steering box is centered. If it is, then with the steering lock off (Ign pos 1) adjust the drag link so the steering wheel is centered.

If the steering box isn't centered when the wheel it, then that alignment is out, and will need to be corrected. once the steering wheel and the steering box line up - then check to make sure the steering box is central when the vehicle's front wheels are centered.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

car drives straight as a nut. Just the wheel that's on the piss.

Then do whatever you want to sort it out.

Morat wrote:

Holy crap - no wonder you've been quiet!
Really glad you got sorted out. I felt rubbish leaving you hanging but my pink ticket had expired :(
And you didn't really want me watching and making dumb comments until 4am did you?

Thanks for showing me how to fit and adjust a P38 sunroof and thanks for fettling the Duchess. She's been sleeping soundly ever since :) Great result.

I think the heat took quite a bit out of people this year. I've still got a sore neck from being out in the sun trimming round headlinings and I never usually burn in the UK - even when I venture south! Anyway, that San Miguel in the pub afterwards was freezing and bloody marvellous - and I don't normally drink lager.

Cheers all!

Yeah, I got the MOT done, and then had to go and catch up with my parents yesterday afternoon/evening as they were off today again to go visit some other rellies... Today, I've just been tinkering with the Nav system - finally got it to install nav program and maps properly (so now it's not just an expensive radio!) and tried to catch up on a bit of sleep..

Still got to get the vacuum/lint roller on the headlining material to clean the shite off it, and hopefully if it doesn't rain tomorrow, get my sunroof shade done.

You're more than welcome for helping you out with the Duchess - glad you got a few bits sorted and thanks for the help on the headlinings! I know what you mean about the heat - whilst it was nice, a bit more cloud cover wouldn't have gone amiss! I understand that people have the journey back to do on the Sunday - and you'd come a pretty bloody long way! If we do it again, then I wonder if it's worth trying to arrange it for a long weekend, so even though it would be 2 nights down in 'sunny' Swindon, you could have a few more San Miguels, and it wouldn't be such a long drive for only really a day's worth of workshop time once you take out getting there on Saturday morning and having to head off on Sunday arvo...

I would have come for a drink, but by the time I'd done a whip round/tidy up of old headlining material into bin bags, etc, locked up the workshop, and then realised I still had all the door/tailgate seals to re-affix, and some wiring to poke up so it wasn't in the way so I could then drive it back home - and the drive home of course, i was knackered, and ready for bed!

If anyone wants to email me through a pic of their nice new headlining, then feel free to do so - I'm going to drop Martrim a message a bit later this week to say thanks again for doing a group discount, and also to show them some of the results...

Marty

Steering wheel - it should be centered (flat) when the steering box is centered (the marker between the indicator bumps on the steering box). your front wheels should then have the tracking set with (from memory as to what Smiler told me) 5-15 minutes of toe-out. (0.6-1.8mm).

Once that is set and the steering box is known to be aligned with the steering wheel, you can then adjust the drag link from the box to the LH hub to make sure the steering box is centralised with the (now aligned) front wheels.

If the steering box isn't centered when the wheels are aligned, then you'll probably end up with it constantly drifitng, or having to apply more than normal steering correction when driving.

You shouldn't just take the steering wheel off and re-align it to center, as it a)won't have had any effect on the alignment, and b) can damage the rotary coupler, as that then won't be centered when the steering wheel is. RAVE specifies that the steering wheel can only be adjusted 1-2 splines MAX - if it's further out than that to the center of steering box etc, then you need to undo the lower steering rod and align THAT to the steering box by centering the steering box, and steering wheel and reconnecting it.

Well, I think we lucked out on the weather again - it's been horrible here today - but at least I haven't had a lot to do outside! though I still have to take the sunroof shade out and recover that..

Thanks to Miles for not only cooking food for us, but also supplying most of it! I hope the Duchess is sleeping soundly at night now (and letting you sleep soundly too!)

Also thanks to Smiler for looking at my tracking and getting that sorted out... I needed to tweak the steering box - wheel bar a bit to re-centre the steering wheel, as when I actually got to take it for a proper spin, it was a bit out again - but managed to get that done before the MOT... at least knowing the steering box - wheel is centered, I was able to do that bit by eye. You managed to do the hard bit, getting the toe all sorted with the tracking bars which is the bit I was only able to guess when I replaced the bar a year or two ago. Sorry it was such a pain to do!

My biggest thanks though have to go to Sloth... You're a true gentleman, mate, and total nutcase... After everyone else had buggered off to peace and normality at home, he stayed back (even after his fun and games with EAS) to give me a hand to re-fit my head lining card that we had covered that morning, and then stupidly to give me a hand to swap my ABS modulator, which I had been planning to do the year before, though had since pulled apart, cleaned, and assembled with new O-rings... and ideally wanted to get done before the MOT on Monday morning, so it was checked off my list and hopefully have decent braking for good.

That task started off well, after a bit of deliberating as to the best way to get the bloody thing out, around the coolant tank, myraid of brake pipes, and all the LPG cabling that runs past the modulator block.

We were doing pretty well until we got to the brake bleeding part - which although it went pretty smoothly just took ages, since the whole modulator was previously empty or fluid and full of air! we got it all done by midnight and took it out for a test drive to see how it felt... got out on the road and 'BEEP BEEP BEEP..... ABS FAULT... TRACTION FAILURE' Shit

Nanocom reported no connection on the RHF inlet solenoid - which was very quickly followed by the air turning blue on my part, and the dread of having to pull the whole modulator block again and swap it back, because the one I'd spent so much time reconditioning was obviously faulty....

A multimeter confirmed that there was no connection, on either the inlet or outlet solenoids (according to RAVE pinout) which resulted in another round of cursing. Before deciding to get violent and rip it all apart again I managed to slide my phone down the side of the modulator and get a picture of the electrical connector... to find this:

Which was kind of bittersweet to find... good in the feeling that we hopefully didn't need to pull it all out again as it wasn't likely to be a problem in the block - but bad in the fact that if we didn't drain it, remove it, etc to straighten the pins out of the vehicle, then we were faced with a stupidly tight squeeze to get in and work, and lack of being able to see a bloody thing. And if we snapped a pin, then we would STILL have to take it all back out again.

We decided to do a trip back to my place to grab the USB endoscope camera, and some smaller tools to be able to get in there and hopefully straighten the pins.. Followed by a stop at the 24hr McDonalds on the way back, as we hadn't eaten since Morat's meaty morsels in the afternoon.

Back to the workshop by about 3am, and surgery began. With Sloth draped across the top of the engine to hold the camera and tools, and me cursing at being scratched by what seemed like everything down the side of the engine, trying to get a hand in there we started, and luckily managed to get both pins straightened out somewhat... after gingerly connecting the plug part way to see if it would go on without bending the pins again, removing it and checking everything with the camera, we figured it was all good, so fitted the connector for good, crossed our fingers and turned the key to see if the fault was gone... other than the standard beeps, and messages the dash was clear, and Nanocom reported all the faults clear, and all the solenoids as working... Hooray!

A quick whip around to pack up all the tools, some of the rubbish etc, we were gone...

My view as I was leaving...

I got back about 4:30am, went straight to bed and was then up at 9am to empty all the crap out of the RR and take it for the MOT...
Luckily, it passed with flying colours... 1 advisory for O/S/R hub seal leaking a bit... which I will get under an check - but we also swapped the tyres whilst they were off and we were bleeding the brakes, and the RHF (which went to RHR) had a bit of a brake fluid mark down it - which looks very similar to an oil stain on the tyre from the hub seal... so whilst I'll investigate, I wonder if that's what they've seen and figured it was the hub seal and not some residual fluid from where we had drips whilst removing the old modulator. Even if it is a hub seal, the rears are easy to change.

So again, thanks to all who came along - and an extra, massive thanks to Sloth for staying behind and helping me out - I literally couldn't have done it without you, and you kept me sane when i was about ready to throw things!! I owe you 2 now... one for this, and one for the all nighter on the engine swap!

The good news.... the brakes feel amazing.. .I just hope they stay like that, and not lose their feel like they used to with the old modulator - because if they do the same, then I'm back at square one!

Marty