I've only ever had experience with Nanocom, the EAS Unlock V1, and briefly, Lynx.

The EAS unlock V1 is the free one, which only does EAS stuff... It's great, and on occasion I find it easier to use than Nanocom for EAS stuff - especially calibration. But you have to have a laptop to run it on.

Lynx - Again, laptop based - seemed fairly functional, but at least when I tried it, a very clunky user interface. You had to tell it for example what live data parameters you wanted to look at before clicking 'ok' and viewing them... which on a laptop, with a big screen, I would expect everything to be displayed, and then you be able to click on an individual item to either bring it up full screen for monitoring, or record it for comparisons etc. the guy who had the Lynx that let me have a demo of it was interested in the Nanocom I had by then, and after I showed him the functionality of Nanocom, he sold the Lynx and bought Nanocom aswell.

Nanocom - it's what I went with too - good functionality coverage (best out of all the ones I researched) good support, downloadable manuals etc. Also full functionality on P38's, with one single cable. Fully integrated unit with touchscreen, powers from the vehicle OBD port, so no need for an extra laptop etc to be carried with you, if you want to have diagnostics with you wherever you are.

My vote - would be Nanocom... also given that out of the 6 owners that were a Summer Camp, 5 of us had Nanocoms, goes some way ( I think) to show that a wide range of us who use them for different things all find the same tool does the job we want!

The cruise control vacuum pump on petrol P38's is screwed to the back of the EAS box... On a GEMS it's between the EAS box and charcoal canister. On Thor, it's same place - but behind it is the engine ECU.

So on a 20 gallon tank, you should be able to squeeze just 388 miles out of it... not that I'd want to run it dry! 350 is probably a good maximum to go with!

I've brimmed mine a couple of times before - when Tesco did their 'clubcard fuel save' or whatever they called it, and I had a couple of 10p/L off discounts to use...

In theory, it's about a 20 gallon tank... assuming an average of say 15mpg (I did get mine up to 22mpg on the dash, on petrol, on the motorway, with the new engine!) then that should give about 300 miles. If you could actually achieve say 20mpg (non stop motorway run maybe?) then that would put 400miles from a 20 gallon tank... so I'd conservatively say that you would be wanting to fill up from about 300-320 if it was brimmed and you weren't doing a solid motorway cruise!

My last LPG fill was 68L and I managed about 180/190 miles from it - giving me about 13.3mpg on gas (think it's tuned a bit rich at the moment!) and I was sitting in London traffic stop/start for about 2 hours, which won't have helped matters!

As Richard says - does the other interior lights work? They are all fed from F15, and then they are controlled in the BECM by a transistor/MOSFET - which also will likely have short circuit protection - so if none of the lights work then it could be there's a short still there somewhere.

If the rest of the interior lighting works, then has to be a break in the wiring between where the loadspace light wires splice off the main loom, and the connector.

If there was a spark and then nothing then it could be an internal break in one of the wires which from the outside looks fine, but there's no connection in the copper strands.

I found on mine that there was corrosion in the terminals at the boot lamp end, to the point where one of the wires had corroded out of the terminal.

Could be something along the same lines as what you've had happen, except with a spark as it's contacted the paintwork, or broken under load...

I've been through and tightened up a bit of security on my server, so that if someone was to go to my external IP address, before it would show up the main landing page of my web server admin page, it now shows up an old version of my website (for the time being).

As the directory structure has changed a bit some of my images in posts might now not show up as they aren't referenced properly.

As an interim measure - i've effectively 'doubled up' on my folder structure, but over the course of 'when I get a chance' I'll be going through and updating the links in my threads etc. I've started on the engine rebuild one, as it had the most pictures in it... but if you come across one that I've missed, and there's just a title where there should be an image, then let me know and I'll make sure it's updated...

Cheers,
Marty

On my server, I setup "WAMP" which is a web server program, that does http/php/apache etc - but once that's setup and attached to the network adapter/IP address of the server - whenever you navigate to the server IP address, then it will web serve on port 80 (standard http port). You can then have different directories in it's www folder.

I have a port forward/redirect on my router, so any incoming traffic to my ip address gets forwarded onto the local IP of the server. I can then reference that url to images etc and use that as the link in the images part of the forum.

Ahh, the joys of having a home server with fixed-IP internet connection, and a webserver running on it.. can copy paste items to the server drive, and then link to them whenever I want...

I guess the only downside is that if my server goes down for any reason, or the IP address does actually change for any reason, then they'll all disappear!

In short, no there isn't any other way to find directions out what key you currently have. Even if you got the lockset barcode from LR, you can then get that translated into the fob code that programs into the BECM, but as that's just the start ID for the lockset, it won't narrow down what actual key number you have.

Next time you are over this way, I'll try my checker on it and see what it comes back with

Keys are programmed to the vehicle in the factory, yes. So key 4 from another vehicle won't work with your vehicle, no. It could be programmed to work, but any other key(s) already programmed would then stop working.

A BECM is programmed to a lockset... each lockset consists of up to 4 keys, each with their own ID. The fob code programmed to the BECM is the ID for Key1 of a particular lockset. The becm will then accept that ID and the following 3.

Key 1 and 2 do relate to the seat positions on a vehicle with memory seats. You can save and recall the memory with the buttons on the side of the seat. If you superlock the vehicle, then 'lazy unlocking' it (press and hold fob button) will then move the seat to the preset number of the key used (1 or 2). Key 3/4 will just unlock the vehcile and won't move the seat.

You can't program multiple lockset to a vehicle, nor can you reprogram a key to work with another vehicle.

I have a fob tester, that will capture the fob code (usually) and from that, I can work out what key you have for your vehicle, and also what fob code should be stored in the BECM.

Sorry, I haven't contributed yet - been busy with other commitments and projects.

One thing that makes me wonder... is there a vacuum line from the manifold to the vapouriser?

I.maybbe way off the mark, but I would think that if this isn't connected, then you could end up with the vapouriser not increasing gas supply as it switches over, and especially under load...

I'll have a look at the pictures aswell, but seems like you have fairly sound advice so far :)

I haven't had a chance to look into how changing the various settings makes a difference to the user end of the security system...

I have heard that disabling the EKA will prevent the need for it being entered most of the time - however, if you can manage to get it into KEYCODE LOCKOUT showing on the dash, and the EKA is disabled, then you have no way of entering it, and the BECM would need to be sent off for resetting (That was something Rick from Callrova mentioned on another forum).

I haven't been able to test the theory, or test what differences there are between older/newer BECM models either - but most of the time turning off the passive immobiliser and the EKA seems to sort most of the headaches out... I keep the EKa enabled on mine as that's how it was from the factory, and b) I know the correct EKA, c) I can enter it with Nanocom - being a later model P38, and c) worst comes to worst... I know a guy with the equipment to reset it ;)

If you have locked it with the fob, but then unlocked it with the key, then it will ONLY open the drivers door until you've put the EKA code it.

As LR intended the vehicle to primarily be locked/unlocked with the remote fob, and the key in the door being the backup for that - I imagine that's why it does it. So if someone managed to get a copy of the key blade, they couldn't just walk up to it and drive off if you've locked it with the remote.

If you've locked it with the key, then it should unlock with the key and allow starting again (after it's been started/running etc)

Looking in my P38 'bible' there isn't actually a special edition called 'Ascot' in any of the model years.

I presume it's an HSE with maybe 'Ascot' coloured paint (can look up the paint code if you get it off the slam panel).

Yes, it was the Oatmeal colour from Martrim for the ones that were being re-done in as close to factory colour as possible..

I need to get a picture of mine actually, since it's all back in. Still need to do the sunroof shade - maybe tomorrow if it doesn't look like it's going to rain!

Nice pics Smiler... I'm the same - hardly ever remember to take pics when I'm working, unless it's to remember how to put something back together again!

Yeah, they are the ones from your '95 - if the drivers seat base is a bit past it, then the passenger seat base might be a candidate to swap for the drivers one.

Vehicle looks good overall, so once all the niggles are sorted out, should be able to make a bit on it when you go to sell it.

Sounds like it was also owned by someone who doesn't know about P38's!!

I've got a couple of grey seats in the workshop - I'm not 100% sure how good they are... but if you send me a picture of the one that's in there, I can have a look to make sure they are the same... even if the drivers base I have isn't great, the passenger one is probably OK and can be swapped over.

If the Lambda sensor is faulty and it's stinking rich on gas, then that also probably explains the MOT failure - but again, simple fix!

Just because it drives straight doesn't necessarily mean the tracking is correct - as when driving in a straight line, the front wheels will 'find' their center point, which will then offset the steering wheel one way or another. But if the wheels are tracking outside the tolerances specified in the workshop manual, then it will lead to excessive/uneven tyre wear, and possible strange handling at times, even though in a straight line it might be OK.

Assuming the tracking of the front wheels was set correctly by the previous owner - or whoever they took it to to be done, and is within the tolerances specified in the work shop manual, then the issue of the steering wheel center would either be in the connection between the steering box and the LH front wheel on the drag link (as the track rod will be holding the wheels at the correct value, and as the vehicle drives in a straight line, they find their centre point, and the adjustment of the rod to the steering box is a bit short, thus pulling the steering wheel to the left ). Or the steering wheel may at some point have been taken off and turned to line it up center (before the vehicle was re-tracked). Or the steering wheel is centered to the steering box still, and the drag link needs adjusting to get the steering box and wheel back to center.

The easiest way to see whether it's the steering box/wheel or drag link is to stop with the steering wheel centered, and check to see if the steering box is centered. If it is, then with the steering lock off (Ign pos 1) adjust the drag link so the steering wheel is centered.

If the steering box isn't centered when the wheel it, then that alignment is out, and will need to be corrected. once the steering wheel and the steering box line up - then check to make sure the steering box is central when the vehicle's front wheels are centered.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

car drives straight as a nut. Just the wheel that's on the piss.

Then do whatever you want to sort it out.