That looks like it from the pictures I was emailed.

I'm not on most of the Facebook groups anymore so couldn't find the original listing to put a link up to. I got sick of every other post being some 'breaker' hocking off 'tested' parts for silly money, or posts starting with "What's this worth" or "Just testing the water".... If you can't do dome research on what your vehicle is worth and name a price you want for it, then sod off!

Had an email from a mate, asking if I knew anyone who was interested in a 2002 Vogue SE...

He's seen an ad for it, but thought I'd either be interested ( I am, but money, space, and time are all against me at the moment) - listed at £2250 and apparently just needs a window switchpack and the heater core O-rings doing...

It's in North Wales, and apparently MOT'd till June 2018, no advisories, all manuals, 2 keys.
Black in colour, and the guy who has it says he wants it to go to a loving home only!

If anyone is interested, then let me know and I'll see if I can find any other info about it/who the seller is etc...

Marty

The only 'why not' that I'm thinking is that will obviously change the brake balance front-rear, so the rears are running at full system pressure and will do a lot more of the stopping. I don't know how/if this will affect the handling...

They will be Dunlop.. I've never seen a firestone bag even for sale over here.

I didn't even know there was a different version of the air spring/shock- it doesn't even show up on my parts tree.

You've even put in there that the firestone ones are for hot weather climate, so hardly likely to be fitted here. Maybe for the Middle East or Australian markets, but we hardly classify as a 'hot weather market

Just stick a set of Dunlops and Boge shocks on and be done with it, since that seems to be what's standard here in the UK

I might have a couple of pictures, but I think they were general pictures...

I'll try to remember to have a look tomorrow and if I find anything, and I'll let you know...

That will only work for another couple of years in the UK then ;)

I think you can get in and ban users - you just have to go into the user list to do it, rather than from the forum topic...

That thread title did make me wonder a bit... and niggled at me that I'd seen it somewhere before... but then this is the first time I've been on here either today, or the last couple of days...

The BMW diesel engine was already selected for the p38 BEFORE BMW took ownership of land rover... according to the bible anyway! Believe it or not, but LR apparently actually selected that engine for the RR... I hate to think what the competition was...

If it makes you feel better Simon... I only manage 16.5mpg on LPG still... bit at current prices ober my last few of fills (and probably nearly 2K miles since summer camp) it works out about 18p/mile to run the 4.6 ;)

My gearbox had had a whine in it since before I bought it. Put nearly 25k on it now with it whining ( in my possession) and it's still going ok.

On mine it must be gearbox rather than transfer case, as I swapped the tcase awhile ago for one that doesn't hand a stretched chain, and the whine was still there.

It is annoying, and I want to replace my box at some point, but I don't think it's an urgent thing if yours has just started doing it recently.

Good stuff.

The spare front cover I have with the seized plug has a 10mm hole I've drilled in it, but still won't budge.. one day I'll try and get a junior hacksaw blade in to try and cut a slice out of it to get it out.

Had a picture, with the fault being found...

Hole in one of the rear air springs.... I'm sure he'll post it up to show us :)

Hopefully Arnott's will honour the warranty...

He's finally joining the club ;)

As other have mentioned.. 8mm.. If you can find any radiator/heater hose that size, then some 8mm fuel line will do as a stop gap.

I've had some fuel line on part of mine for awhile now as I couldn't get anything else, and auto silicone hoses didn't have the black single ply stuff when I tried ordering it either.... and more recently they didn't have a reducing elbow when their eBay shop said 10+ available...

But a couple of meters of 8mm fuel line will get you by (even the join you have will probably be fine for the trip)

I was going to say if you get adventurous, you can take the belt off, unbolt and move the AC compressor (There's enough slack in the AC lines) to then get to the spout on the top of the inlet manifold, and you can run new pipe from there all the way back to the header tank.

Good work!

If you put some light scratch marks on the bits as you took them apart, then if they all line up on reassembly, then it should be pretty close (from what I understand from the bits I've seen/read about the diesel FIP)..

Hope you took lots of pictures... I'm interested to see what's inside the FIP, since it seems to be one of those things on the diesels that if it doesn't work properly, then nothing else does!

You got it.. I think the minimum order I found on the eBay listing was 10 of them, for a little bit more than what someone was selling 2 for...

It should be possible to do in-situ, as long as the end cap isn't stuck in and doesn't refuse to budge and come out (though if it's leaking, then it should come out ok!) On one of my front covers I worked on, I couldn't get the end cap out in the end - it became stuck solid and I'm still contemplating how to get it out/whether it's worth taking out!

I think 19mm x 1.5 if memory serves me correctly.

I have a bag of them at home from when I did my engine rebuild (though I'm not at home to check it!)

Or, I get back on the 19th and can have a look to clarify if needed.. I might even have a couple of spares I can send you, if you don't have any by then.

I thought RSW were in the USA?

If you can't communicate with the engine WAY then chances are it's a bad connection in one of the diagnostic wires rather than anything more serious.

Still, if it gets it sorted then happy days.

An expensive trip to Brighton seems excessive if it's just a sync issue! I don't doubt Callrova's expertise one bit - especially when it comes to repairing BECMS... but I know they aren't the cheapest around, and thus can become expensive if it's just for a simple resync!

What's actually happened to it etc? What's it doing/not doing?

You don't need to drop the headlining to get the sunroof bits out. If/when you have a replacement unit, then just remove the whole runner units complete, and swap them over.

But if you're doing the headlining anyway, then it might be easier to just swap the whole thing.

So maybe worth avoiding the cheap runner replacements?

You can get various units, some will have more features enabled etc...

That one (whilst being nice and slimline and needs not modification to the unit itself to install was about 1/3 the price I paid for mine... but then I got DVR, DAB, 3G, reversing camera, etc etc etc.

If the MR2 has a full depth double-sin slot then there is a lot more choice in units - probably just over the £100 mark (at a guess without looking) and I'm sure you'd find one with DAB compatibility.

Can't hurt to make notes on it..

Have a look also for 'Bosch VE' pump seals or something like that - I will have a look, but I think I found some pictures of one being stripped down, so if I can find it again, I'll post a link up for you.

Marty