I think the woofer in the stock system get somewhat of a filtered output... I haven't actually measured the frequency response from each channel on the amps, but the door amps (and DSP on the later systems) have different outputs for the woofer and mid range speakers, which to me says that they are internally filtered in the amp.

The tweeter has it's capacitor in line to filter the mid frequency range out, as it isn't driven of a separate channel aswell, but off the mid/hi output.

In fact, I had a door amp set up on the work bench, testing an unbalanced - balanced line level converter, and I connected up a woofer and a mid speaker to the 2 amp outputs and the woofer definitely doesn't get a full range to it.

So there isn't an external crossover in the vehicle wiring, but I am assuming that the door amps (or DSP amp) filters the frequency bands for each speaker being driven and then amplifies them separately.

There are a couple of adjustment screws which are reachable with the glovebox door open.

As a side not on the sealing up - I usually undo all the screws holding that plastic pollen filter holder in, and remove that whole unit. You can then fold up the rubber seal that is under the pollen filter housing, and clean out any crud under there.

I reassembled mine with silicone under the rubber seal aswell, which then gets clamped to the bodywork when the plastic housing is refitted.

Hopefully you've got it sealed up though - with the glove box in, but the footwell trim removed still, you can reach up behind the glove box and feel the blower housing/recirculation flap, and see if there's any moisture there too.

If you are getting a drop in the tank pressure overnight, then could be internal leak of the NRV in the VB which is letting the air pressure bleed down.

It is also worth checking however the O-rings on the tank air connection. I chased a bit of a leak down to where the air line goes into the tank, so replaced the O-rings. I have a feeling that even with new rings, I still got a slight leak when I wiggled the pipe (trimmed/chamfered the end too), and I ended up stuffing an extra O-ring in the tank connection and that sorted it.

So far it seems to be a common failure in some of the SMD components on the input stage of the ECU from the sensor.

I don't know why it's always rear/left, but on the units I repair, I replace the components on all 4 corners just to be sure! Given how fiddly some of them are to replace being surface mount, it makes sense to do all 4 corners at once whist I have the tools to hand!

I'm not sure I'd there are other failure points in the ECU, as all the ones I've looked at so far have all shown the Rear Left short to another sensor fault, and been working properly again once this has been rectified.

Cheers,
Marty

The rear left sensor short to another sensor is a fault in the ABS ECU.

I've managed to repair 4 or 5 of these ECUs now, and have 2 which are ready for road testing next week when in home.

Funnily enough, if they pass road test, then they'll be up for sale on exchange for the faulty one... much like most of the other parts I work on these days!!

Ok...

On the EAS compressor there's a black plastic screw in thing, which is the inlet filter for the system.

On the valve block, as you look at it from the top, you have 5 solenoid caps - from back (closest windscreen) to front they are: Diaphragm Valve solenoid, Rear/Left air spring valve/solenoid, Front/Right air spring valve/solenoid, Inlet valve/solenoid, and then at the front, Exhaust valve/solenoid.

On the bottom of the valve block (again, back to the front) Rear/Right air spring valve/solenoid, Front/Left air spring valve/solenoid. You then have a brass pressure relief valve, and then at the front, the green pressure switch.

On the side of the valve block (facing into the vehicle) you have (from the back again) - at the top, 4mm pipe, which is the Diaphragm Valve vent, then towards the bottom, the exhaust silencer - this is either white (original/some aftermarket) or red (definitely aftermarket!). Under this, you have the 8mm air line, which is from the compressor and feeds to the air dryer unit.

In the middle section, you have the 4 air spring lines - which correlate to their Valves/Solenoids. In front of that, you have the 8mm air line, which is the return from the EAS dryer unit. Right at the front, you have the 6mm air line to the EAS tank.

If you have air coming out of the silencer, then you either have a leak on the NRV in the valve block that goes to the tank, and that's bleeding air back. If you have air coming out there when the compressor is running, then it implies there is a problem with either the diaphragm itself, or the valve/solenoid on top isn't powering up with the compressor, like it should be, so that it's dumping freshly compressed air out of the exhaust.

From what you've described though, I'd be imagining it's the NRV in the valve block not fully sealing.

I've never heard of a pressure relief valve on one of the blocks to have gone faulty - but there's a first time for everything!

NRV's - it would have to be the tank one that's leaking for air to be escaping out of either the pressure relief valve or the exhaust silencer port, as that side of the VB is not pressurised when the compressor is off.

Good that the EAS was a simple fix!

I can do a copy of the original nav disc if you like, I have a 2011/2012 one, and a 2015? One which I haven't actually had the chance to test on a working system yet.

If you're getting water from both ends of the duct in the passenger side from the blower motor to the heater box, then it will most likely be coming in from the plenum, through the blower motor.

I have heard of AC runoff making it that far back from the heater box before, but it's more common (especially with the we weather we seem to have at the moment, that it will be rainwater getting in

Also, if the potentiometer is faulty, the hevac will try moving it in both directions to see if it gets a change in reading - if not, then it will flag it up as faulty and not use it anymore...

Potentiometer can be tested with multimeter - you should have about 10K ohms between Grey and Red/Black - and then varying between 0Ohms, and 10K between Grey and White, and the inverse of it (10K down to 0Ohms) between Grey and Red/Black (depending on which multimeter probe you put on which colour with determine direction of the change for each pair of wires, but you get my drift!).

You should get an even, linear change in resistance, any spikes or dropouts indicate problems on the resistive track

There are AC drains on BOTH sides of the transmission tunnel. O-rings are just RHS of (UK Drivers).

There'a a whole host of places you can seal up with silicone around the pollen filter inlet, plenum etc - but it is another place where random water can get in from, and then get blown by the blower fan into the heater box area.

I doubt it's sunroof drains, as they go down inside the A pillars at the front, and exit through the bodywork behind the front wing. If they overflow, or leak at the top where it joins the sunroof cartridge, then you usually get moisture in the headlining around the front corners of the sunroof area first, or drips from the centre dome light.

I'd check the AC drains first.. if the AC is running, as it's been pretty wet/humid lately, the AC will take the moisture out of the air, so entirely possible it's generated that much in 20 mins, or is could be a combination of plenum leaks and AC drains

The whine is almost a 'standard Bosch' whine... it's the alternator bearings - mine have done it for the past 5 years without getting worse, and pretty much every Bosch P38 I've seen has had that whine to some degree or other!

A lot of the later ones seemed to have UK police set - I think it changes a couple of other options around the locking (Mine has it set too, and I noticed ones I locked it on the fob with the tailgate open - and it didn't chirp the alarm at the as a mislock to say the tailgate was still open... but yet it will tell me if it is still open on the dash, and it will chirp if any of the doors are left open...

So I wonder if it was a setting that was used on the later ones for different usages in markets...

The country - that's the 'Language' setting on the sheet above.
Everything you've mentioned is pointing towards the BECM being in an alarmed state again - which if it starts and runs, could mean it's in a weird 'limbo' state... All the settings that 'appear' corrupted are actually only read that way on a Nanocom, but they aren't actually stored like that in the BECM - and attempts to write a different value (even if it says 'write sucessful') don't ACTUALLY write. definitely a strange one.

I'm away from the 29th May - 14th June, over in the USA - but if you need to call, then give me a shout as my mobile contract includes roaming over there, so I won't be charged extra for receiving calls. If I don't answer, then I'll call back when I get a chance.

If it's a 6+1 on flying leads, and there wasn't any wiring botched into the vehicle, then the other one will be the same - just crosschecked the VIN, and it's just before the changeover. I'll try and work on some latches early next week, as I'm away working later this week.

It sounds like even though you put the EKA in, it's still in some weird limbo mode, or someone has messed with it.

The settings sheet I sent back with the BECM were showing how it was programmed when it left here... but if the alarm isn't turning off, then it could be that it's still thinking the alarm is on.

If it still shows weird values when you go back to it, then check the software version in the BECM - if the bottom one is showing 153, with a weird build date, and VIN, then there is something really strange going on (probably the door latch not telling it that it's been unlocked with a key - it thinks it's just being unlocked from the inside).

Were the latches the 6+1 connector type, or the single grey connector? Just so I know which ones to work on. Will try and get them done soon, as I'm away on holiday myself in a couple of weeks.

For reference - BECM settings that were programmed here before it was shipped back are as below:

Pretty sure the heater matrix connections on a Diesel are the same as a Petrol, for the pipes that go through the firewall - IE the one closest to the centre of the vehicle (RH as you're looking at it) is the flow, the LH one is the return.

Flow should come off the pipe on the back of the engine, to the matrix, (1 in your diagram) and the return to the other pipe (2 in your diagram)

Did you check the BECM settings before entering the EKA with the Nano? If so, then it could be showing the GEMS/Manual part because it was in EKA lockout.

Superlocking on the RHF door - strange - it should have unlocked with the other doors when the EKA was entered. If it doesn't come unlocked when the latch is replaced, then you could possibly try actuating it manually from the Nanocom (BECM -> OUTPUTS -> DOORS/LOCKING from memory).

Did you switch the passive immobiliser off in the BECM after the EKA was entered? Even with the faulty key switch, it should be able to be locked/unlocked with the key in the door (the alarm just won't set) and with the passive immobiliser off, then it should start/run again properly until the latch is replaced and the fob will sync.

I've had an email from Teri about a door latch - which I'll have a look into my pile of parts, as I am pretty sure I actually have a LHD LHF drivers one which I can assemble up. Likewise I can do a RHF one if required and you think it needs it/warrants being changed.

EAS - I've got a few recon air compressors here too if it's easier to just swap it out, or are you going to do a rebuild on the current one?

Yes, there is remarkably a lot of space on the diesel ones... I always feel like there's something missing on them (well, there is... 2 cylinders for a start!!)

I think that it was OB who mentioned about adaptions now changing below 1/4 tank... want me anyway.

I personally am unsure of whether it does our not on a GEMS, but can't see why it would stop adapting. The bosch ones don't, they'll sul adapt when fuel level is low.

I'd just hook it up and clear them to see if that sorts it as gilbertd mentions

You can use either aerial - I think the red taped one is the main though... but they are part of a diversity system, so both go back to an antenna and antenna amp, so should work just as well as each other.

The fuzzy object... is the internal cabin temp sensor, that is supposed to be mounted behind that grille, yes.

Android units and CD stacker... no, I don't think it is possible for them to be connected and work. Most of the android units have a couple of USB connectors (some even have a microSD card slot on the front too) which you can load up a lot more music than would fit on 6 CD's ;)

I pulled my CD stacker out when I put aftermarket head unit in and use the space as extra storage under the sub!

I'll give my one a go in a bit, with tweaking the map.

I'll also reply more in my LPG thread to keep from hijacking this one!!

Currently my map sits about 114/116 for the rpm/pinj mark - so increasing 20% would put it about 136-140? I'm not doubting the figures (I worked out about 20% increase aswell) but at idle with a hot engine, I've got figures at 112 around the 3.5-4.0ms mark for the 500/1000rpm section - as I tuned that whilst running to get it as close as I could. Just seems like a fairly bit jump across the table!

Hopefully I'll get a couple of periods where it's not raining and I can pop out and update the map, and then take it for a spin and monitor it again.

Will post results back in my other thread, once I've gotten around to it!

At least it's running better now...

One thing to point though... Cylinder 5 is actually PASSENGER side - 3rd from the front.

The cylinder numbers have bank 1 on passenger side, bank 2 on drivers (so if you are standing at the front of the vehicle, looking towards the engine, 1,3,5,7 are on your RIGHT, 2,4,6,8 are on your LEFT.

My LPG system is also wired so the the red band (usually bank 2) is connected to bank 1 on the engine and vice versa. I figure it doesn't make a lot of overall difference as long as they are all connected to the correct injectors (petrol and LPG) and in the correct order.

I need to finish getting mine tweaked (still) I've got it sitting pretty happy at idle, but it's still a bit out at 70mph on the motorway.. I was reading pinj of between 6.0 and 6.5ms, and when I switched to LPG, it jumped up to between 8.2 - 8.6ms.

One day I'll be able to get it more accurate and get someone else in the vehicle with me who can monitor the laptop and tweak the settings!

One random thought...

If there was no sign of coolant, or the departed rad cap... but the bottom of the rad is stone cold (because of stuck stat) then how would it disappear as steam - most of the coolant in the rad would have been dumped pretty quick and if it was stone cold, then probably wouldn't have evaporated..

I'm not saying it didn't - but also would have thought that much coolant going out hot would have made a noticeable smokescreen!

Either way - hope the noise isn't anything serious!!